thompsonkd

Thanks for the responses re negative terminal on battery-the picture was helpful as well. David

Do you mean the stiff cable that connects the 2 front batteries?

We are having a bit of trouble with our seven pin pigtail connector; usual issue with moisture in the housing. I want to take it apart and clean it out with air and a brush. We were advised to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery when we did this though though; we have the 4 AGM battery set up with solar. Do I need to disconnect each negative terminal on each battery or just one? Thanks in advance.

Interesting observation. Since you are using the 3M now instead of the ASI, I wonder if a test with the Duragloss on the 3M is in order? Although it is early, what is your thinking regarding how well the 3M is performing compared to the ASI?

Overland: thanks for the detailed info re re-caulking. Curious as to why you choose the 3M sealer instead of the ASI 335 that seems to be popular on the Forum? Thanks.

Overland: I read on the forum that you recently redid the caulk on your Ollie. Can you give details on how you did this, and which caulk you ended up using? And how long did it take you? I’d be very interested in exactly how you removed the old caulk; what tool, which chemical you applied to help removal and what was most difficult about the process? Our Ollie is about 2 years old, and we have, following the directions of Oliver Service reapplied caulk over the existing caulk. But Service suggests completely re-caulking every so often, and we will either do it ourselves or have Service do it.

Thanks Sherry. We are probably outside of the warranty by just a few weeks. We’ll have to see what Dometic will do. We used to do a lot of tent/car camping and backpacking, so we are used to using coolers. We might invest in a better cooler, if nothing else as a backup to the fridge. Hopefully we can get the fridge working quickly.

Thanks again everyone. I think we have checked everything that we can; I actually got ahold of Dometic and they helped me to walk through the issue. It could be the lower circuit board, or it could be the eyebrow circuit board, but I can’t tell without more sophisticated electrical tools than I have. I am going to take it to a repair place that we use. If we need an eyebrow board I’ll contact Scubarx.

What’s PDC?

We haven’t hit it yet, but Kim jammed a butter knife into the on button to get more “traction “ on the button. It’s done this before, and then just started working. We figure it’s the eyebrow board, and are trying to find one. Any other ideas, let us know! Thanks everyone.

Thanks for the replies everyone. We have checked the fuse and the breaker, and the fridge is plugged into the outlet. We have tested for both 12 and 120 volts, and both seem to be working. We think it must be the circuit board on the fridge? Are there 2 boards or just the one? For those who have replaced their board, does it just snap out and in? Thanks again everyone.

Hello. We have a 2018 Oliver Elite 2, with a Dometic 3 way fridge. When trying to turn it on it does not respond - no lights come on the control panel. We have checked the plug, the breaker, the fuse - all good. We pulled off the panel on the top of the fridge and checked the board - nothing was loose. We are not just pushing buttons quickly - we know it needs patience - but we just can’t get it to respond. Any ideas? It is stored at a lot and we were trying to cool down the fridge before we headed on the road tomorrow morning.

Hey Everybody It was me who developed the health situation-driving home from the rally, I developed a lesion in my stomach and experienced a significant bleed. Apparently a developmental issue-it came out of the blue. I was able to get help, and am now home recovering. It was close. But the real story starts at the rally. The night before we were getting ready to head home, I noticed that my Dexter had 'flipped'. Lee very kindly came over the next morning and fixed the Dexter so we could be on our way. Then, driving home, the medical emergency happened, and I was wisked off to the hospita

Thanks John for your quick response and many ideas. We particularly like the idea of the compression sleeves to make the bolts more secure. As a point of clarification, we are working with Rob Babcock, who built Pete's bicycle rack. We want to have a 2 inch receiver so that we can swap out our bike rack from the Oliver, to our Tundra. We are planning on using square stainless steel tubes, that will be mounted onto the side of the frame rails with a plate. I think that we will likely remove the diamond plate on the sides. We think that a side mounted rack would be more secure and stable. W

Not sure if this is the right place to post this question; we are building a bicycle rack and plan on mounting it using plates and bolts onto the side of the bumper. However, the diamond plate that wraps around the bumper is not flush against the bumper, so we would need to bend the diamond plate so that it is flush . What is the best way to bend diamond plate? Is there any risk of cracking the diamond plate when it is being bent? We noticed that most people mount their bicylce rack from the top-we felt that mounting it from the side using plates would allow for a stiffer rack and shorter