Galway Girl
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Posts posted by Galway Girl
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I have upgraded to a pair (2) of the Lithionics 315GTS which are in an Aluminum Enclosure and 315AH rated.
Below is my readout today of battery status at 2:46PM, trailer is in full sun and at our house the outside thermometer is pegged at 100F at the moment.I note that the Highest Recorded battery TEMP (87) is different from the BMS temperature (89).
I have been testing these batteries now for 1 month of camping under various conditions.
Dry Camping Test: 3 days at Kalaloch
When we were dry camping at the Kalaloch in Olympic NP the temps were in the low 60's during the day and high 30's at night.
We were using approximately 60AH/day and we were using all our appliances, running fans and lights, TV etc.
We had high overcast conditions and a partial sun site, and thus solar was only putting back in about 15 AH in the day.That means under those conditions I could run 10 days before having to get out the generator.
Full Hookup Test: Xantrex 2000XC inverter / charger
When at places like Steamboat Rock where we had full hookups we found the the batteries charged very quickly when connected to shore power.
The new Inverter/Charger pumps out up to 100A and has done a great job for us so far.
Charging while Driving: Testing the Victron DC/DC charger
We stayed at Klipchuck NFS campground in the N. Cascades last week and after a couple days I had the opportunity to test how the new Victron DC/DC charger setup would work with some batteries that were depleted by 15% (~500A Remaining)
When I connected up the truck to the trailer (via our new Anderson Connectors) and started the engine, I used the Victron App to follow the charge cycle...and the DC/DC started pumping out 25A immediately in Bulk Charge mode. We then drove about 2 hours to our next stop (Rasar SP) and found that the batteries had been fully recharged during the 2 hour drive. The combo of SOLAR and the Victron DC/DC really make charging slick.
Finally, I when I upgraded to my Lithium batteries I was able to move my dual 12V AGM's into the back of the truck.
I also installed a Redarc DC/DC charger and have found that to be a great addition for running our ARB Fridge which we keep in the truck bed.
Hope everyone is keeping their cool this summer and getting out in their Oliver's.Craig
Hull 505 - Galway Girl
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Some real numbers on our 2019 Elite II if that helps:
This is from when we were towing our EII with an F150.
Our EII as weighed below was fully loaded including dual 30G propane, water, 4 AGM Batteries, clothing on board and food and an 60lb box of gear on the tongue.
Our unit has solar panels and the tongue box is used for chocks and tools.
Tongue Wt ib this weight at this stop was 665lbs...( varies from 530-675) depending upon full water, and junk in the closet and tongue box.
Our 2018 - F150 had a GVWR of 7100 lbs --- and I was towing 60 lbs over GVWR on that particular run.
Ultimately I upgraded to an F350 for towing.
Hull 505 - Galway Girl
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Appreciate the details as my unit needs a good cleaning before our 9 month trip. I may order spares before I go as they may be hard to find on the fly.
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We upgraded our seat cushions to a denser foam and also used a Sunbrella Fabric for our color scheme.
We found a local Foam Source shop that also had contract upholstery folks to do that job.
We have twin beds, so we also made cushions that run along under the windows, and then across the wall against both the pantry and the stove end.
We like those as we often sit on the twin bed and watch TV.Craig Short
Hull 505
Check our BLOG here:
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Wow that does seem like a really long list, and I'm sorry to hear of that many problems.
Our 2019 EII has had one issue with the electronic door lock (which was simply shipped as an overnight fix) by the maker of the Lock.
We also had an issue with the Dometic Awning which needed a re-adjustment, that was done at a local RV shop under Dometic's warranty.
Other than that we've been having a great experience.We recently upgraded our batteries to the Lithionics 315GTX and are on the road for a month so I'll report back after that month long trip.
Galway Girl - Hull 505
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Ford's towing guide states that a truck towing a trailer with a weight distribution hitch should be adjusted lower the total rise caused by the loaded trailer to 1/2 of the difference between the unloaded and loaded weight of the truck.
I did this with my F150 and the EII and found that loaded/unloaded front wheel well height difference to be 2.5 inches.
I tightened my chains until I brought that difference down to a bit under 1 inch and found that the front steering was better and the bounce was much less.-
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Next UP - Setting Up the Truck to Power additional Electrical Items:
After upgrading to the Lithiums for the Trailer, I decided to move 2 AGM's into the back of our Truck as campsite power.
They will provide added power (210AH) to be used by our ARB Fridge, Compressor and any other 12V Electrical devices.
To keep the batteries charged while driving I installed a Redarc 25A BC/DC Charger.
In future I may put solar on the Roof of the truck to power the Redarc MPPT controller also to charge those 2 AGM's.
(I also have the ProWatt 2000W Inverter I removed from the trailer that might be mounted later for Campsite AC Power.)Here's a overview of the installation.
UPDATE - Mar 2022 - To show a Change.
After 6 month on the road and constant worry about those exposed components, I rewired and place them safely on the back side of the mounting board. I added standoff spacers to give room for airflow, and left the Charger on the Outside where I can see the indicator LED's. The whole assembly can be removed with a few screws for access.
CShort
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9 hours ago, trekhard said:
Hello friends,
I have been watching videos about electricity and batteries, but I had zero electrical knowledge until 2 days ago. Right now I have a very basic understanding of what volts, amps, and watts are.
1) Do we keep lithium batteries clean the same way as regular batteries (baking soda etc)
2) How do batteries have cycles if you are using it and recharging it at the same time?
3) Is there a video that shows our system (I can't find one) and what we need to know for safety and use?
4) My understanding is that you use (lead) batteries down to about 50% then recharge. Is Lithium the same way?
5) We only need to discharge the battery to 50% if we are going to store, not for everyday (P 64 of manual)? Why?
6) How do we disconnect so that it's not charging but is still usable to discharge it to 50% as directed.
7) How do we measure the watts our stuff is using, like lights?
😎 How do we know the watts ALL of our stuff is using when plugged in together, like charging cell phones and computer and running lights and awning at same time?
😎 some people are saying they leave a "trickle charger" going when in storage. Can we do that with the cover on? And if they want batteries at 50%, how do you do that? Also do you get a smaller panel to do this? Please explain this.
I don't understand what the inverter does, and I don't understand what runs on A/C or D/C. Things to learn this week....
I do not have the Ollie yet to see the system so just trying to figure this out before we get it. Thanks!
I'll answer some and let others fill in blanks as well...
1) Clean - Lithium Batteries don't out-gas acid vapors the way Lead Acid batteries do. So there isn't a need to clean them. Maybe wipe down surface dust but no real need.
2) For Lead Acid Chemistry batteries (wet or AGM types) a full battery cycle happens when you get below 50%.
Lead Acid batteries prefer to be kept charged up as it will prolong the life. If you let a lead acid battery get below 50% repeatedly it will cause damage as the
lead plates get damaged and the result is a battery that won't recharge fully, nor provide power under load.3) Video about battery compartment: This refers specifically to AGM or Lead Acid Batteries. They've not yet produced one about Lithiums.
A Lithium battery doesn't need to be vented to the outside.
Depending upon the specific lithium battery you may need to be careful about the "outside temperature" while using the battery.
Lithium batteries can be discharged in cold weather down below 32F ...but unless they have an internal heating element or heating blanket they can't be charged
if their temperature is below 32F.4) Lead Acid batteries should be monitored and charged once they have discharged to 50% state of charge.
Lithium Batteries can be taken nearly to 0%. In the case of the Lithionics Batteries like the GTX315, it's suggested a reserve of 15% be used as the have an internal heater that will use about 10% of the capacity in cold weather.5) Not sure why that 50% statement was given. Storage of Lead Acid and Lithium are different and each battery manufacturer has their own specific procedures. I would suggest looking at the specific battery manufacturer's storage requirements.
6) How to disconnect ? It depends upon the specific trailer and which options are included. If you disconnect from SHORE POWER then the batteries will continue to function and run all the 12V items in the trailer. If your unit also has an Inverter/Charger, then when you are disconnected from SHORE POWER you can turn on the inverter to also run AC appliances like the microwave and items plugged into outlets. If you have the 3000W Inverter and Lithium Batteries they are also wired to be able to run the Air Conditioner for a short time.
7) The Lights are LED and very low wattage. But take the microwave as an example, the wattage is listed on the sticker inside the door frame. Typical is 1500Watts.
If you can see a sticker on an appliance Wattage can be calculated from that sticker. Watt's = Amps x Voltage
Calculation Example: Device sticker says 110V and 15A = 110x15 = 1650 Watts.
Another way is to buy a power meter, plug your device into the meter, which then plugs into a wall outlet and it measures the wattage real time and shows it on a display.8) On the web there are "Wattage Reference" charts available that give typical values for various items....simply add up all the watts your using to see the total.
For Safety - In your Oliver, every place you plug in an item will either have a "circuit breaker" (for AC devices and plugs) or a Fuse (for DC and USB's) on the Oliver.9) Storage: Lead Acid vs. Lithium
Lead Acid:
Trickle chargers, or maintenance chargers are used specifically for lead acid batteries and provide small amounts of current to keep your battery topped off but not overcharged. The lead acid batteries will still emit some gasses and this is why they don't want the battery box vent's covered in any way (like with a slip on cover).
In the case of cold winter storage it's better to take the "lead acid" batteries out of the trailer and put them in a garage or shop on a trickle charger.
This is one I use on my bench for my extra AGM batteries that I use.
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Lithium: For lithium batteries, just charge them up and turn them OFF. (That's for Lithionics which have a built in switch.)10) The inverter is a device that converts 12V DC Power from the Battery into 110V AC Power. Inverters come in many forms but the ones in the Oliver are high
quality "Pure Sinewave" inverters that mimic the power you get from typical house plugs. The total output wattage of the inverter is one of the key specs.
Oliver offers either a 2000W or 3000W inverter depending upon your configuration. A 2000W inverter can run a Microwave (about 1400W) and maybe
a couple of 60W laptop chargers, and your lights all at the same time.
In our Oliver - Hull 505 there are only 3 things that are mounted in the trailer that run on AC. The Air Conditioner, microwave and refridgerator (when on AC mode).
Anything you put into the "ac outlets" is also running on AC, like a Computer Charger Brick, an Instant Pot or a VitaMix.
The TV, Stereo, Vent Vans and all lights are all running off of 12V DC.
If you plug in a cell phone or iPad charger into an AC outlet, it's converting AC to DC for your phone....in those case you would use less energy by plugging
USB Charged Devices directly into the USB or Cigarette Lighter ports in the Oliver. (That way your not converting from AC to DC and wasting energy.)Hope that helps:
Check out our Blog here and don't forget to look at the "Oliver Trailer Outfitters Guide" link to Amazon on that Blog.
Craig & Rose Short
Hull 505 - Galway Girl
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Just saw this tear down comparison between Lithionics GTX315 and Battleborne.
My update to Lithionics is complete and we’re going out for a month of ttravel to test.
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I also see in the manual that that supports 2 cameras so you could put one on the other side as well.
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This system can support 2 cameras, select the camera you
would like to pair. Camera 1 is the rear camera, Camera 2
is the front camera.
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Mike & Carol:
As you see, the grommets are shaped like a rubber donut with a slit all the way around the outside.
They are specified by size which includes: (more than anyone want's to know.)- Full Outer Diameter - This will be slightly smaller than the stainless steel mounting plates
- Inner Hole Diameter - This is the ~ the same diameter as the latch pin
- Grommet Thickness - (they come in square shoulder or round shoulder) thicker are harder to put on..
- Slit thickness - this is ~ the thickness the stainless mounting bracket.
- Slit depth - it ends up being about 1/2 the difference between the outer and inner grommet hole sizes.
When inserting the grommets squeeze them together a bit and force one side into the slit and wiggle.
A little soap on the outside helps the slip on.
I ended up buying 2 each of few different sizes and one of them fit perfectly....
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No, we hadn't received an upgrade quote from Oliver before I had to move forward with a self install.
It's likely any Lithium battery upgrade prices from Oliver will depend upon your specific Hull's existing components and exactly what has to be changed for your upgrade.
For example, if your hull is already wired up with either an XC2000 or XC3000 Inverter/Charger the cost should be much different than I paid since I had to also add a new Inverter/Charger. Oliver now carries two different Lithionics Batteries. They are compared against Battleborn in the chart below from Lithionics.
Best bet is to get with Jason and the Service Team to discuss an upgrade quote.
Hope that helps.
I decided to go with Lithionics because of:
1) Quality of their design
2) UL Testing and Certifications
3) Designed in features like heaters in the GTX, built in bluetooth shunt monitors, designed in cutoff switches...that reduces overall costs and install complexity.
Craig
Craig
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The AGM’s were Trojan brand, but the ones in a black plastic case made in China. They are cheaper OEM versions with a one year warranty.
The Trojan support line told me they are inferior to the US made Trojans in the maroon cases. There wasn’t a specific event that caused them to fail, other than one having a short and taking out the other 3.
For the upgrade I estimate the total cost including all the parts, cabling and main gear a bit over $10,000.00
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Welcome!
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An update for the forum on my project to upgrade to 2 new Lithionics GTX315 Batteries for Hull 505 - Galway Girl.
Some slide ware below is self explanatory...but if you have questions, please ask.We'll be doing a month long road test in June.
Craig Short
Hull 505
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What are we adding?
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Project plan:
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New System Level Block Diagram:
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What we are removing from Hull 505:
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How to disable the existing onboard Progressive 4060 converter / charger:
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New Components Installed:
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The finished installation:
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Battery Bay with (2) Lithionics GTX 315's Installed:
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Victron DC/DC Charger Modification - new wiring run and hull penetration:
In this case we used a Blue Sea CableClam for the hull penetration to maintain a sealed exterior.
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Trekhard,
I used to have an F150 3.5 Eco 4WD SB Crew Cab.
It had a 1557 lb cargo capacity...so very similar to your truck
We found it towed the trailer perfectly and we got reasonable mileage and had plenty of power even in the Rockies.Where we had to be careful was when we fully loaded the trailer with food and water, and the truck bed with gear.
In particular on steep downhill descents we had to be really be careful to shift down before the descent as the 3.5EB doesn't have the compression braking of a diesel.Just pay attention to payload item's and you'll be fine.
1) Payload of GEAR you carry in the truck....1555 lbs sounds like a lot until you start carrying items for longer trips...like bikes, extra coolers, generators etc.
We carry a generator, extra cooler, 2 bikes, camp stoves and tools.
Our gear including a truck canopy typically ran right at 550 lbs in back + 400 lbs for passengers left us 605 lbs available for tongue wt.
That meant we were right at the payload limit all the time and we had to be careful about where we put extra weight.
We were needing to put some items from the back of the truck into the trailer to maintain proper tongue wt and balance.
(Example - the extra coolers would go inside the trailer instead of inside the truck.)2) Tongue Wt. of EII - ours ranged from a low of 580lbs (full propane, full food, but empty water. no tongue box load) to as high as 730lbs one time where I had too much front loaded gear including the tongue box full of gear.
Most of the time our actual wt of the trailer is between 5800 and 6300 lbs...and our most common tongue wt has been ~650lbs (as we have a storage box on our tongue.)
Here's a real CAT Scale printout from our F150 days.
The truck was loaded up about 475# of gear in the back, 200# passengers, and the trailer had full water and full dual 30gal propane tanks.
Tongue wt on this run was 685#.
We were exactly at the Payload limit of 1557 for the truck.Note: The GCWR for this F150 was 18,100 lbs so we were well under that limit.
Data Table for our F150:
F150 Truck GVWR = 7000 lbs
3:55 axle, max tow pkgCargo Capacity = 1557 lbs
Truck GCWR = 18,100 -20” wheel
Tow capacity: 12,700 lbsHitch Capacity/tongue load
Weight carry rating on hitch - 5000/500
Weight Distributing rating on hitch - 12,200/1220-
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We are constantly changing what we carry depending upon the trip.
Since we're preparing for a 9 month road trip, I thought I would take a moment to categorize the items we have to carry and put it into an XLS and share that with the forum.
Here's the OVERVIEW total weight of what is in the truck bed.
If you want to see what makes up that weight...the XLS is attached listing details like Bikes, Generator, Camp Chairs, etc.
The full xls is attached which lists all the items and their individual weights.
We plan on scrubbing the contents before we start our 9 month road trip.
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I’m about to cut a hole in the interior wall to add a panel for our Xantrex controller display.
Tips appreciated on how to cut safely, including best blades, bits for the job.
Hull 505
Craig
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Fixed the issue by changing two settings in the xc2000.
1) Disable power save mode.
2) Set transfer mode to UPS from Appliance (default)
Power save mode, by function, cannot work with clocks (like on the microwave) and timers (or devices that need power 24 hours a day). In the power save mode the inverter turns off if loads drop to <25 watts. So essentially in our trailer the inverter was turning on and off at a 25ms interval...and that drove the microwave timer board crazy.
Examples of devices with timers include microwave ovens, TV boxes, coffee makers with brew timers, refrigerators, and freezers with defrost timers.
When the Freedom XC PRO is load sensing the output for loads, lights that have a wattage lower than 25-watt threshold, may flash momentarily, clocks and controller boards will keep resetting every 25 ms.
To avoid issues with beeping devices turn off power save mode by setting to code dl5. (Disable)
also, Selecting APL- appliance sets the transfer time from line to battery to 20 ms. Selecting UPS (uninterruptible power supply) sets the transfer time from line to battery to 10 ma.
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I just installed a new XC 2000 Inverter Charger as I prepare for a Lithium Upgrade.This inverter charger replaces my existing Prowatt 2000 inverter that was installed at the factory.I was able to wire in the inverter very easily and it seems to be working well.Per instructions from the factory the AC input power to the XC 2000 is connected from the 20A Breaker for the uW/110V outlet branch.
The AC Output is connected to the 20A GFCI Plug under the front dinette seat.
(This is the same way our previous Prowatt 2000 Inverter from the factory was connected.)When on shore power, the internal bypass allows shore current to flow through the 110V Outlets and the uW Outlet.When shore power is removed (or drops) the Inverter switch kicks in and the inverted AC power from the battery now provides the power to the circuit.Everything works as it should, batteries are charged, circuits work but there's one problem and it's with the uWave.When I take away shore power, and the inverter kicks in, the microwave beeps about every 3 seconds.I've tried several things, but opening the door makes the beeping stop while the door is open.I can actually start a convection cycle but after it finishes the microwave returns to beeping every 3 seconds and won't stop unless I open the door.Close the door and the uW starts beeping again.Any tips or ideas, I've not found anything in the uW Manual about beeping.Craig -
I believe at this point Oliver is committed to Lithionics for all LI packages for ship dates later in the year.
The GTX315 has the heaters built in, the other model which Oliver Uses does not have a heater and charging cuts off at 32F or 0C
Datasheet for the 130AH unit is here:Pix from the data sheets to quick compare:
Up to 3 of these Lithionics G31's fit in the battery bay of the Oliver.
The Oliver specific version slightly higher watt hour rated.
Two of these Fit in the Battery Bay as part of the Platinum LI Package.
These same batteries are used in Winnebago Class B's and other Motorhomes..
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I'm upgrading my 2019 to the 630AH Lithiums this month....because my 4 - AGM's died after 18 months.
I'm choosing to NOT upgrade to the 3000W Inverter as it would cause major rewiring of my 2019 EII.As you choose, first notice that there are two "inverter" options also at play along with the Lithium Battery sizes.
A 2000W inverter/charger is wired to run the uWave, fridge and outlets. And normally are sold with the 3 - lithium batteries.
The 2000W charger will output 80-100A for charging the batteries.
A 3000W inverter/charger is wired to also be able to run the A/C off the inverter and is available with the upgraded 630AH batteries.
The 3000W charger will put out 150A for 50% faster charging of the LI batteries.The Lithium Platinum package includes the 3000W inverter, so you'll be able to run the A/C off of the 630AH Lithium batteries for a while.
(How long depends on how hot it is, how much power you're solar is bringing in etc.)Differences with the dual 315AH Lithionics Batteries offered in the Platinum Package:
1) Housed in a rugged Aluminum Alloy Enclosures
2) Built In Battery Cutoff cutoff switches
3) Internal heater for cold weather charging
4) Also has the built in Bluetooth monitoring via a phone/tablet. (See Attached PDF of the battery Owners Manual).I'm confident if you choose either of the current Lithium Packages you'll be getting a very well designed system that will last many years longer than the typical AGM based systems.
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We are located just north of Seattle and planning a similar Alaska trip starting out in Mid June and Return Mid Sept.
Hull 505 - Galway Girl
Craig & Rose
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Congratulations!
Just for fun check out our blog showing our trip from the Pacific NW to Tennessee, and don't miss the "Oliver Trailer Outfitters List" on Amazon for all the goodies to stock your new Oliver. You'll find the link at the top and bottom of our posts.
Craig & Rose - Hull 505 - Galway Girl
Condensation problems with fiberglass walls?
in General Discussion
Posted
The under mattress material would be used on any trailer. When you sleep on a mattress with a box spring in your home the moisture from your body seeps down through the mattress and dissipates within the box spring. When you have a mattress on a flat surface, you'll see that the moisture eventually collects on that flat surface. So in the case of Oliver they offer a material the allows air-flow between the bottom of the mattress and the platform. Some folks install a froli system which acts as an air gap.
As to the rest of the issues you saw with Casita, we also had that reaction from Bigfoot Trailers and Escapes which are all single wall.
We have minimal condensation issues with walls, and as to the mattress we bought the optional material from Oliver and it works like a charm.
C Short
Hull 505