Galway Girl

We upgraded from 1/2ton F150 with eco boost 6 for that same reason. The downhill compression breaking in the diesel engine makes a world of difference and no need for an Anderson hitch as the new truck has antiseay brake controls.

I vaguely remember needing to reset a parameter within the settings of the Xantrex to avoid that problem. The battteries blink When charging so that’s normal. I n our case the LOW Battery Cutoff Voltage setting was not set properly after an update to our system....and it would do the beeping thing. The settings are easily changed in a data table on your xantrex phone app. Your settings would be the column to the left of the red column below: LCBO Voltage can be set from 11.5-12.1 FURTHER INFO: Here's some data from the web: A beeping sound from a Xantrex inverter charger is an audible alarm indicating low battery voltage, an electrical overload, or internal overheating. The system uses the beep to protect the internal components and the connected battery bank from permanent damage. [1, 2, 3] Most Common Causes Low Battery Voltage: The battery bank has dropped below the low-voltage cutoff threshold (typically around 10.5V for 12V systems). This can happen if the batteries are drained, a battery cell is dead, or the charger is disabled. AC Output Overload: The continuous power draw from connected appliances exceeds the total wattage capacity of your Xantrex unit. This triggers a warning beep before the system shuts down to protect its circuits. Overheating (Thermal Shutdown): Poor ventilation, blocked cooling fans, high ambient air temperatures, or heavy prolonged loads can cause internal temperatures to spike. High Battery Voltage: An external charging source like an un-regulated solar controller or high-output vehicle alternator is pushing voltage above the upper safety limit (usually >15.5V). Bad Cable Connections: Loose, corroded, or undersized DC cables cause a sudden voltage drop across the connection terminals under load. The inverter reads this localized drop as a dead battery and triggers an alarm. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] Troubleshooting Action Steps Check the Digital Display: Look for error codes like E01/E05 (Low Voltage), E03/E06(Overload), or E04/E07 (Over-temperature) to pinpoint the exact failure type. Verify Voltage with a Multimeter: Test direct DC current across the battery terminals. If it reads under 12V, plug into shore power or run a generator to engage the battery charger. Shed Electrical Loads: Unplug high-draw appliances like microwaves, coffee makers, or hair dryers to see if the beeping stops. Inspect Physical Connections: Tighten all cable terminals. Clean off any green or white corrosion crust with a wire brush. Ensure the cooling fan spin freely and the air vents are completely clear. Perform a Hard Reset: Turn off the unit. Completely disconnect all sources of AC shore power and DC battery power for 5 to 10 minutes to reboot the internal microprocessors. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11]

Wonder what that will weigh?

Saw this a while back and they hadn’t started shipping yet. The earlier video showed very rough cutouts in the cabinets ( no trim out) were as it was first prototype. See they went with Battleborn.

Check your 7 pin. If it gets water in it the on board 12v battery will trigger. see this posting https://4-ever-hitched.com/blog-articles/f/why-were-my-tail-lights-on-all-night tail lights on ??

Running gear looks the same , just a wheel & tire change and some black accents. At least they are trying something different. If they changed up the suspension for better off road that would make a difference.

Usually the 1/2 Ton Trucks are limited by the 'dead weight" or weight carrying capability. The receiver unit on the truck you have should have a sticker like this one (from a 2018 F150) either on the actual receiver hitch or on the door frame. Notice that on this unit the max Tongue weight capacity is 500LB. (Weight carrying the case where you don't have a WDH and is essentially the dead weight from the trailer tongue down on the ball.) An Elite II tongue wt when loaded is easily above this 500lbs, and requires a weight distribution hitch to be safe and legal. In this F150 case, once a weight distribution hitch is applied, the F150 can then handle up to 1220 Lbs of direct tongue weight. The towing guides for most vehicles state the method for determining how much adjustment is needed from the WDH. Most have you: 1) Measure the unloaded truck's front wheel well height through the center of the front wheel. 2) Measure the wheel well height after loading the unit and attaching the trailer. In most cases the amount of weight distribution needed is set to bring the front end back down by at least 1/2 of the total difference in those two measured heights. Example: Unloaded measures 37" Loaded measures 41" (4' total rise). Apply enough WDH force to lower that front measurement by least 2" ....or 39" when loaded. Each manufacturers towing guide states specifics by vehicle make and model. CS

My original was subbed out by PD as a warranty claim. Now the second one has the issue with the Neutral leads both in the box and from the street side. I'll be buying a new version of this box PD5110010Q.

Sorry I checked my quote from Alcan and part # not there either. We ended up sticking with our original 3.5k’s as we had just put in new brakes and bearings. I suggest you ask Alcan when you order your springs as they’ll have that p/n for sure and it will need to match for the spring order. They also know the axles lead time by heart! Craig

FYI - This years Ford Towing guide has a ton of useful general info as well. 2026-Ford-RV-&-Trailer-Towing-Guide_r7_fnl-Mar19.pdf

When we first bought our EII we had a F150 with a hitch rating that required load levelers and sway control for any tongue wt above 500lbs. So we bought the Anderson and used it for 2 years...but then we upgraded trucks. We now have an F350 Diesel 1 Ton Short Bed with a 3" receiver which has a dead weight rating of 2120lbs. We use a B&W Tow N Stow hitch and that's it. We've not had any sway or issues and it's dead simple to adjust if needed and hookup/unhook much easier than using either the Anderson Antisway (with Chains) or the types that have WDH Bars and Sway Bars. We don't need sway control as our truck also has braking sway control built in that states in the user manual that manual sway controls shouldn't be used. CS

We have 3.5K Axles and used 4 leaf Alcan, had them do the install, they gave me the 5th leaf to carry with me if we wanted to install it later. After 5k miles with 4 leaves we're just fine. That said if you have the 5K axles on your trailer, then most folks use the 5 leaf version to match the axle rating.

Yes we made advanced reservations but we found many campgrounds less than 50% occupied by mid September. Probably the best to book in advance at the “National Parks “ as they are the busiest. We were in Canada Sept 5-Oct 1 Weather was very mild , in 55-65F range most days . Nights in 40’s. There were 3 rainy days, but some campgrounds are on bluffs so pretty windy.

We did a full month long trip in Sept thru early October to the area shown 2 years ago and it was barely long enough. Each of the items with a TENT on the map are highlighted in our trip..."the big loop" and and be seen in pictures with comments here: Scroll down to the pix section on Nova Scotia Main Island. https://4-ever-hitched.com/the-big-loop-2024 Graves Island Provincial Park - Site 31 Shown - is Just South of Halifax on the main island. Puts you perfectly in a spot for the UNESCO site of Lunenburg, Halifax and Peggys Cove as day trips. I would stay there at least 4-5 days if I were doing over. To get into the park you cross a causeway into the park which is on an island. Going south don't miss staying at "The Islands PP" Further SE = Site 54 - Islands Provincial Park - Puts you on the edge of the water....this is on the SE Corner of the main Island. North on the main Island before you cross onto Breton Island you may want to also see the Fortress of Louisburg...which is on the north east side of the island. A good stop point is Mira River Provincial Park as you can easily drive down to Fortress Louisburg from Mira River...and then north after that stop. SIte 28 - Electric & Water at Mira River PP Above....but the site 34 below would fit and is right on the bay, but no Electric or Water... I've labeled all the campsite photos for each park in our blog, but If you have any specific questions we could get on a call. Craig & Rose

Not sure of the full dimensions of your space in LE1 but you may want to check out some of the 300AH mini batteries like this one from Renogy. Renogy 300AH Mini Core They claim a much smaller footprint ...but be aware,,,this model doesn't have self heating for cold temp charging, but they do have low and high temp cutoffs for protection. List prices are currently $879 direct. Here are Epoch Dimensions Just an idea of others:

Put on 50k miles since repair. No changes or movement. Craig hull 505 (Galway Girl)

Which connection anchors did you use..for the side of the trailer mount? CS

Saw this post from another user...quite detailed. I mounted the sending unit for our system (not Tire Minder brand) on the outside of our front jack power head. You can easily pull 12V from the inside of the power head and decide if you want/need an on/off switch for the circuit. * I just leave mine on all the time...as the draw is minimal.*

For those with the Xantrex Freedom XC2000 inverter here's that same table. These XC2000 was the unit used put through 2024 with the lower tier battery configurations. Also these units don't allow running the AC off DC. (So these are configurations other than the "Platinum" or dual 320AH Lithionics)

These are the ones shipped from the factory with the trailer: Bulldog Shocks are the ones folks tend to 'upgrade' to if replacing the OEM shocks. Bulldog Shock Parts to Replace Monroe 555001 (OEM) Bulldog part number: HD1213-0656 Price about $150.00 for 4 depending upon supplier. Monroe (Yellow on Top in Pix) Bulldog on Bottom. Link to 4 states truck parts: https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007 Craig

To make changes in your signature: Click on your name in the upper right corner of the page. It will pop open this window: Look under SETTINGS and click on account settings. In the settings tab that opens up...near bottom you'll see signature with the pencil icon. Click on that signature line and it will pop open...you can add what you want including maps of your travels, hull # etc. Craig That brass port is the anti-siphon air gap from your black tank flush. The inlet to your external black flush hose bib on the side of the trailer (down low just below the dinette window) runs up to that antiphon then back down to the side of your black tank which is where it connects to the wash head. Once done flushing, that air breaker enables water to drain back out of the inlet port line out the street connection to your flush port. The air gap is an anti suction device that keeps black tank water from coming back out the exterior flush lines. It also makes that line self draining to prevent freeze ups in the flush line. (After you take your hose off after flushing...you'll see about a quart of water drain back out the connection.) Hope that helps.

Here’s a blog post we wrote showing the installation of snap pads on our 2019 back in 2020. It is so easy! Blog with installation video

Preview for Oliver friends: Since we're between trips with Hull 505, we decided to try out some ai song creation tools and do a road log video. This is the link below is to our page which includes the lyrics for the video shown below: Blog Article with Video and Lyrics Craig & Rose Video from our website below: Oliver 505 640 - SD 480p.mov

Hoping for the best for all BB owners.