WhatDa

We installed a smart plug on our old Oliver when I noticed elevated heat around the plug. It turns out the interior lugs weren’t tight. I don’t think the smart plug solves this, but I did like what it did outside of that: we carried a “smart plug extension cord” and then had dog bones for various connectors that felt more secure and water tight than using adapters on the RV style 30a. So we could plug into 15, 20, 30, and 50a receptacles in a way that felt better than using the various adapters on a 30a cord set. I did carry a spare “RV end” of the cord, so if I had to make a new cord it would be a 5 minute procedure. For us - we did a lot of winter camping in the PNW, and the solar did not produce enough for us to do what we needed.

We have the basement door, and a factory vent + access door on the curb side in our 2019. Another option that seems pretty good are the electric valves a few folks have installed so they can easily winterize/draw water in the boon docking port/etc...

With the 10 speed transmissions, axle ratios become less important (lower first gear). Also look at getting an F350 SRW. Drives the same, but can carry more stuff (= more resale). If it were me, I would have a hard time passing up a 2021 F150 eco boost with HDPP if gas made me content. I don't want to listen to a V8 on mountain passes and since we live next to one, that would be frequent.

From the light code. you are getting it doesn't sound like the sail switch, but you can time the blower run just to be sure. No light off would be the ignitor (spark) or gas supply (more than likely the valve) or the circuit board that makes them dance.

Read a little more carefully, it looks like you are getting the flame sense falt. The thing to troubleshoot would be are you getting ignition and it is the sensor or is ignition not happening? John's link goes into viewing the flame - but you should also be able to hear the light off.

#1 problem with the furnace is the sail switch. If it blows cold for 30 seconds and then shuts off - sail switch is the culprit.

The problem with low temps is it also isn't conducive to lower humidity. So if you have semi-cool, moist air, passing over the composting medium, which is even cooler because its heat is conducted away by the basement floor, water vapor will condense and create the mess you described. We've considered a 12v RV tank heater on either the bottom or back of the composting toilet bin for humid/cold climates to help push out some excess moisture when we are boondocking and can't run the dehumidifier in the bathroom.

Note that Oregon goes based on weight rating, not weight. If you have GVWR of 10,000lbs or under you are exempt (some older f350s do meet this). Even when not towing we need them with us as our GVWR is over 11k lbs - but haven't been hassled thus far but the passes have been clean.

If you look at the tech specs for that antenna, it misses the 600 mhz band. I am thinking of a separate antenna for band 71 if we swap the tower to t-mobile. Also you will want your antennas 45 degrees either side of vertical (think X or V instead off a Cross or T) Those flag pole holders may have some issues: wall thickness, diameter of top section, and no clamping to prevent rotation. We used max gain systems with clamps but also looked at DX Engineering. Either way you'll need some level of guying if you get too high off the ground. You could potentially that mast with a guy mounted to the tip of the antenna(s) to provide directional stability.

I am in the "don't go if chains are required" camp and we have a fair amount of winter snowfall. Our vehicles have Blizzak/Nokian tires on them - so if those aren't working it's probably not great to be out - and that just means we stay in the lowlands at home sometimes. We carry the autosocks, this model for the ollie and another set for the truck. Reports are they are effective when used for their purpose (snowed in pass) but quickly shred if you are using them in place of a winter tire around town. We haven't been forced to use them, so they have largely been for compliance with WA/OR/ID/MT/CA/UT DOT regulations to carry chains (one of our spots is within one of the pass envelopes) - even on sunny dry days with no precip in the forecast. If our AWD/4WD vehicles get stuck and chains are required for them to move, then it's probably a short amount of time before a semi flips/jackknifes and blocks the road anyways - so we'll find a place to stay put pretty quickly. Also note that for chains, most vehicles only have certain tire sizes that chains can be used with -- check your manual. We went with the autosocks as they are smaller/lighter than carrying the minimum 3 chains for the truck and 2 chains for the trailer, and if we have to put them on and they fail, we are less concerned with them ripping things apart.

Wifi passes even without the wifi ranger (we have gigabit at the house and home base, so it is faster to connect directly than via WFR). Also note you probably want a Log Periodic or panel vs a yagi. Yagis don't offer wide frequency coverage that you want - but many of the LPs are advertised as yagis. 600mHz band is key if you ever want to have T-Mobile service. Also for LP/Yagi you need to pay attention to wind loading otherwise the pole will try to weathervane. I am looking at a setback mount to prevent a crosswind from applying rotational force.

They do, but you'd need to run more cable anyhow. Instead of doing a cable run to bring the signal inside, you can also consider just putting a hotspot in an enclosure outside, right next to the antennas, for the lowest loss.

None of the acrylics I have found match the Oliver window sizing. It wouldn't be too difficult to adjust the cutouts either by filling or cutting some more glass, but at that point you really have to hate the stock windows. Thickness from ~1-3 inches are supported, which should cover the gaps in the hull assuming there aren't other problems due to varying distances or motion.

Semi-related- I've been thinking about putting a 12v tank heater pad either on the bottom or if the pressure doesn't work, the side of the composting toilet to help it continue composting while colder, and also to help it desiccate when there is extremely moist air. Also thinking of putting one on the wall near the cold spot, to prevent condensation there.

When we moved here, I told the Mrs. to make sure she washes out the moss behind the ears at least twice a week.