JuniorBirdMan

Something to take into account if wiring the EMS for protection from the generator: Some generators (Honda, for instance) use a floating neutral and your EMS may interpret this as an open ground and not allow power to the Ollie. The fix is pretty simple and cheap, a 110 plug with the ground and neutral bonded together to let the EMS know everything is OK. The N-G plug is then plugged into an unused receptacle on the generator. I use it successfully (and safely) even with two Hondas in parallel. Only one generator needs to have the N-G bonded plug. See directions here: http://noshockzone.org/generator-ground-neutral-bonding/

I wired my EMS to protect input from both the shore power and generator power. To that end, having the remote monitor located inside the cabin allows me to monitor the amps being drawn. It's surprisingly easy to exceed the generator output even without air conditioning. I even saw over 40 amps once while on shore power.

That might be me that Sherry is talking about. I've had the SPOT mounted up high in the closet for a few years now and I love it. Friends and family know where I am at all times and if the trailer moves just a few feet I have it set up to send me an email AND a text message. My Ollie is stored in a metal building so it has no satellite contact but I get a message as soon as I pull it out of there. I've been running it on batteries all this time simply because getting power to that location looked like it would be a PITA. I have been pleasantly surprised that the batteries seem to last forever (several months under daily movement; longer when parked) and I get a message when they need replacement. Mounting it in a hidden place is optimum since thieves know what these devices look like, although really smart thieves will have an RF detector that will find it no matter where you put it. I guess nothing is foolproof, but this little baby is close.

I've got mine mounted on a hinged piece of Lexan in an overhead compartment. The light from that thing is pretty bright at night so I can swing it out of the way and close the overhead. No drilling required - just route the phone cord between the hulls to the overhead compartment.

Lovable guy. My thoughts and sympathies are with his family.

I've been doing it constantly for almost 9 years now. I never got a manual for my Ollie (#32) so never knew better. The only time I had a problem was when I left the push-up bath vent open and the fan powered. I doubt the poor little motor lasted more than a few minutes at the speeds I like to travel.

(BTW, nice foto bomb by your finger, Aubrey) I was trying to blot you out of the photo, but missed.

A "Flight" of Olivers?

A few months ago I replaced the frame on my door window because the original had become quite yellow. This is the one I used: https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Doors/Lippert-Components/LC363369.html It worked quite well and survived a 2-day "monsoon" on the Gulf Coast with no leaks and no rattles. I've also been in contact with http://www.rvfogdr.com/ because my rear escape window is fogged, but haven't scheduled a visit there yet. They may be able to offer some help.

Glad you got it working, Scotty! I know what a relief it is. As much as Ford touts its trailer towing capabilities, it boggles the mind that they won't incorporate the circuitry of the Tow Ready into their F-150s and have ignored the numerous complaints they have received on the issue. (Google "Ford F-150 trailer disconnect" and you'll get an earful, so to speak.) Between that and the terrible nav system installed on the 2015 (compared to the system on my 2010 F-150, which was excellent), I may be looking elsewhere the next time I need a new TV. I don't know how the Ford 2016-2017 nav systems stack up, but Nav Systems in general might be an interesting new thread.

That's exactly right. I operate solely from my onboard fresh water, so I keep a 1-ounce syringe with my Purogene bottle. A few inches of plastic tubing attached to the syringe makes it easy to fill and then just squirt it into the hose. The label on the bottle also has instructions for sanitizing the tank and is a bit safer and easier than using Clorox. Refilling the tank before storage (with 1 ounce Purogene per 30 gallons water) keeps the tank in a sanitized condition.

Try this: https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/US.htm I have the AC powered 3 GPM Sterilight system. Other options (DC, 5 GPM, etc.) are available. The reason I chose AC is that my F-150 has convenient AC power ports and a short extension cord makes life a bit simpler if I can't quite get the truck really close to the water source. Also, here is a link to where I buy my Purogene: http://billydump.com/3r/3rhome.htm The OdorCon product on this page is the same concentration of chlorine dioxide but is not "food grade", per a call to the maker. Rather than carrying two different bottles of the stuff to save a couple of bucks I just use the food grade version (Purogene) for everything.

It probably is as long as the water source is located fairly close to your Ollie. But most of the times I've used this system I've had to pump water from the source into a 40-gallon bladder in my truck and then drive to Ollie and pump it through the filters and into the Ollie.

I have no desire to convince anyone of anything. I obtained the system specifically for the trip to Mexico and now use it only occasionally such as when extreme boondocking in very isolated places where the only available water is from lakes and streams. Travelling south of the border the choices are limited: one can either sanitize water with such a system or wrestle with several 5 gallon containers every few days. Or risk the consequences. Ditto for extreme boondocking. As many others have stated, there are numerous and various levels of water purification systems available. Use what suits you and is appropriate for the circumstances.

I'm still here! ScubaRx saved me the trouble of digging around for the old post on this subject. The system works great and is available in AC or DC powered versions, as is the Wayne pump. As for the chlorine dioxide, some folks get nervous because of the word "chlorine" in its name. A little research on the 'net will give you a good background on its use/safety. If you're drinking tap water at home, the odds are that it was purified using chlorine dioxide. Also, it works great as a waste tank treatment, so now one bottle of chlorine dioxide serves both purposes for me since I no longer have to worry about stopping at Walmart for tank treatment. 1 ounce treats 30 gallons, so it saves space, too.