Hokieman

I didn’t see where your PD charger model is listed, so not sure if what I did will help you. I have a PD 9260C, for lead-acid or AGM batteries. I ordered my Oliver with a basic 340W solar package, and two standard lead-acid batteries (no longer an option). I sold the batteries on Facebook Marketplace as soon as I got home, and I already had two BattleBorn 100A batteries on hand. They slipped right in. I intended to swap out the standard charger for a lithium model. I researched on the PD site, and found that they offer a remote pendant that plugs into the 9260C, and converts it to lithium. It was less than $20, so I thought I’d try it. Here I am camping in my Oliver 4 1/2 years later and everything is still working well. It requires a manual push of a little button to boost the voltage, but I don't need to use it often, so it’s no hassle. I don’t usually have the charger turned on, I let the panels keep the batteries charged (we don’t have an inverter). Every 2-3 weeks I turn on the charger, fully charge the batteries, and then synchronize them to 100% using my Victron BMV 712 Battery Monitor. My lithium conversion consisted of adding the PD pendant, a Victron BMV 712 battery monitor, and a Blue Seas battery cutoff switch. I also disconnected the charge wire from the tow vehicle, which was easy to access under the port side bunk. In addition to a PD lithium charger, I also have a Redarc DC-to-DC converter on my wish list. I’ll probably eventually get them, but I haven’t needed either so far, and we dry camp more often than not. I like to keep it simple.

I would be happy to oblige, but I parked the trailer in storage this morning and then drove home about 600 miles away. I’ll try to remember to get pics when I go get it in a few months. I recall I cut one hole (used 2” holesaw) in the same spot on aft wall where a battery cable had been routed through but now unused, while doing my Battleborn battery install. The other 2” hole is on the forward wall, down lower I think. I also cut several other 2” holes in bulkheads throughout the basement on street side and rear compartments to facilitate convective flow. I’m still brainstorming future plans to introduce warm cabin air to basement in extreme cold, which might include small, quiet 12v blower fans. We camped several nights this winter out West in low teens with no freezing problems or battery issues. Last night in mountains it was 24. So I’m wondering if I need to worry much about additional mods, as I’m not really planning on camping any colder than that.

Agreed, LifePOH batteries do not require ventilation as they do not generate gas. My comment was intended to clear up what might be a misunderstanding by some readers. Lead-acid batteries generate gases during charging which may vent into the battery compartment, these are corrosive and flammable. That’s what the external vents in the door are for, and Oliver is required to put them there to meet RVIA standards. SeaDawg recommended sealing the external vents, which many of us have done, along with extra insulation. Venting into the basement isn’t required, as you have experienced, but it may help in temperature extremes, as many previous threads have discussed. For example, parking with the street side in full sun in Arizona in the summer @ 115F ambient. All I have done is cut two 2” holes in the sides of the battery box. I’ve noticed it is cooler inside the battery box on very hot days with the street side in the sun.

I’m assuming Seadawg suggested venting to interior for temperature stabilization. Many owners have vented battery compartments to the basement, and some to the inner cabin. This helps the batteries operate closer to their optimum range, not too hot, nor too cold. You’ll notice a significant difference when monitoring your battery temps.

Thanks for pointing this out! In my recent repairs on my water heater I did not remove this valve, so didn’t know. I will be going back in and replacing with higher flow valves.

I also carry some spare Pex A tubing & a few Sharkbite fittings. Last trip we lost water pressure after a long day of highway driving. A look outside revealed water draining out one of the scupper holes. A look under the curb side bunk showed a broken plastic elbow on the bottom connection of the Suburban water heater. I did not have the correct Sharkbite fitting on hand (I needed a 1/2” el), but found a Home Depot 10 miles away open until 9 pm. The repair was made quickly, and camping continued. When I got back home I re-plumbed both the bottom and top water heater fittings with simple 1/2” brass els, as the plastic elbows are not the best, and they restrict the water flow when compared to similar 1/2” brass. I used Sharkbite copper crimp rings and a compression tool I already own. I’m familiar with the benefits of Pex A tubing & fittings used in residential plumbing. Since OTT used Pex B and copper crimp rings throughout my trailer, I did the same. It’s easy to do, and it’s the most common DIY method. These Pex B parts are readily available at most good hardware stores. Some time ago, I removed the restrictive plastic T-fitting used for the flush toilet water supply under the bath sink. I removed that supply line as well as the valve behind the toilet. Since I have a Natures Head toilet, the water supply line and valve is not needed, and is another item to winterize. I also removed the black tank flush linens and vacuum break fitting. The result of replacing the restrictive plastic water supply fittings is a noticeable improvement in water flow, especially in the shower.

Unfortunately I did not get a response to my question about what was allegedly said by Jason T or maybe Jason E at the rally about torque specs. Perhaps it didn’t happen. I’m writing this response because some new readers may not have seen this older thread, and if not, I encourage them to go back and read as it is a very important safety issue for all. Several of us ME’s including Geronimo John and @mjotto did some research and the findings are in this thread. GJ and I turned in Service Tickets on the issue, read by Jason E., and GJ reported back on it. GJ was able to persuade OTT to reduce the torque value, which is better, but they apparently didn’t want to go lower for reasons unknown. They updated the newer manuals, but made errors, and did not send out a service advisory to those of us with older trailers. I have been using 100 ft-lbs and 45-50 psi in my trailer tires since Mile 1, which I understand contradicts OTT instructions. I periodically check my torque wrench calibration (I have several) and never use lubricant on the threads.

I figured it was Jason E, not Jason T, whom many of us know.

Camping World description for Dometic Freshjet 3 states that Dometic heat strip accessory can be added with Universal ADB. It also mentions that Dometic SmartStart can be added to allow 2000W generators to be used. As already mentioned, the unit bolts right on without mods to the trailer body, uses the existing condensate drain lines, ADB, and thermostat, and is very quiet. Extensive dealer service network. I don’t need the heat strip as I use a small portable heater when on shore power. This checks all the boxes for me. Comments? Dometic Freshjet 3

This previous thread has the link to the Oliver video plus a link to John Davies excellent documentation of the process .Jack Maintenance

This topic has been discussed, and several owners have made this modification successfully. I did a quick search and came across this link. I suggest you consult with Service to ask if and where the wires are placed on your specific model. Oliver has made changes in their process over time. DIY Solar Install

OK I understand what you mean now. My comments not just intended for you, some seemed to suggest the body may be flexible mourned to frame. Just responding to your request to give you feedback. I could not get mine to flex like what I see in the video. Maybe my Jack blocks are absorbing the shock, might look different if I was on concrete like in the video with a wood support.

I see no movement of the body relative to the frame on our #797. Considering how the body mounts to the frame (see @ScubaRX comments), I’d be concerned some bolts are loose. I assume Oliver is not mounting the bodies any differently on later models. I’m camping for 2 weeks on gravel, and in addition to the 3 stabilizers down, I’ve got 2 Camco 3 ton jacks placed firmly under the frame at the forward Jack Points, and X-Chocks between the wheels on both sides, so 5 stabilization points in all, not counting the 4 wheels. This keeps the trailer fairly stable, especially when going up and down the stairs. I do not use the 3 stabilizers to lift the trailer. They are firmly placed on jack blocks but just enough to stabilize the trailer motion. I think there is some confusion about your question, perhaps they have not watched the video carefully. Of course the trailer moves quite a lot when moving around inside, but the body is not designed to move relative to the frame. I’d be interested in reading what Oliver Service would say about this.

John, Many thanks for your contributions & common sense mods to make the best trailer even better. I am grateful you spent countless hours documenting your mods, your tech library will be a valued knowledge base for Oliver owners for many years to come.

On the Oliver Trailer Owners Facebook page today, Edward Stroetz wrote that at this years rally, Jason T from OTT advised all the wheel nut torque should be 100 ft-lbs. I was not at the rally, and don’t know who Jason T is. Can anyone that attended the rally confirm? The 2023 manual online continues to show discrepancies.