katanapilot

McMaster-Carr is also a good source. Fast shipping. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/pins/quick-release-pins-2~/

Stop drilling is how aircraft mechanics deal with small cracks in sheet metal skins, as well as acrylic windows, etc. I assume the same would work for fiberglass. Sharp corners create stress risers which can lead to cracks. Thread drift, sorry - The deHavilland Comet suffered multiple catastrophic failures due to stress risers that occurred with sharp corners. The phenomenon was not well understood at the time (1950's) but the engineers quickly figured out the cause and aircraft design, especially for pressurized aircraft, changed as a result.

Still no Hybrid models (same engine and plenty of failures) and surprisingly didn't see the Sequoia listed in the latest recall. I'm going to call BS on the "manufacturing debris" in the engine 3+ years after the first reports. This looks much more like a design failure that they haven't yet figured out. I see that RAM is bringing back the V8. Wonder if Toyota will do the same. The UR series engines are known for their reliability.

IIRC, the Dometic thermostat used originally for the Dometic Turbojet Penguin A/C, had a digital communication protocol to the control box located in the Penguin. This box had a couple of relays that were used to control the Suburban furnace. There are a few posts somewhere on this forum on how I (and others) modified that box to continue to work with the Suburban. Others have replaced the Dometic thermostat with a more conventional "analog" style to work when they removed the Penguin.

I understand why you might want to reinstall the same unit as you removed - but I feel really bad for you that some dealer took advantage of you. These units are available online for much less and as @jd1923 said - the more capable and robust Victron Multiplus II is even less. Given Xantrex's response to you - I'm a bit surprised you didn't consider other options. Not that it matters, but my opinions is that Oliver would be doing their future customers a big favor by ditching these other brands and going to an all-Victron electrical system.

Not surprised, really. As to feedback from one of us that have the 4 leaf Alcan springs - did a two thousand mile trek to Oshkosh and back in late July plus a recent trip to South Carolina and back last week (about 300 miles round trip). No issues and really no difference noted in handling from the previous Dexter OEM springs. Tire pressure reduced from 50 psi to 45 psi. Single data point doesn't prove or disprove anything.

I think that's exactly what the Alcan 4-leaf springs are rated at...

I'm going to go against the grain here and say that I think you are oversprung with the 5 leaf springs and it sounds like the ride in the Oliver is pretty punishing. I would be curious to see some accelerometer data to understand better how stiff that suspension really is. Of course, this is just one person's opinion, worth exactly nothing...

Public "thank you" to @topgun2 for sending me window shade clips that I tried (unsuccessfully) to buy from Oliver. Very much appreciate the thoughtfulness. Hope I can return the favor to them (and others) in the future.

I've used both of these type of nuts. Airplane mechanics call rivnuts "the spawn of the devil" because they inevitably come loose and start to spin. They are difficult to then either remove or squeeze again to try to tighten them up. That being said, I've had a couple of airplanes where these are used (and yes, some have come loose). The benefit of the threaded type inserts is they can be installed in much more cramped spaces - like the bays of the Oliver. The rivnuts (especially the large ones needed to mount the Victron Multiplus II) require a tool that is too large to fit into the bays.

Understood. I know many on this forum have used and had good support from Oliver. It is situations like this that convince me to try to deal with most things on my own (the Truma AquaGo recall for example). I'd rather fix it myself if at all possible and within my skill level, plus it's a learning experience.

Time for my morning complaint session. Reached out to Oliver and heard back about the price of the clips plus shipping. Responded to their email with a request for 10 clips. Never heard back - that was exactly one month ago. In the grand scheme of all they probably deal with on a daily basis - not a huge thing. But if they can't deal with the small issues, makes you wonder about the big ones...

Yes, the inserts were installed in the factory board, but I also added several pieces of Azek PVC board that I had on hand. No, I did not use epoxy on any of the inserts.

This doesn’t answer your question directly, but may give you some food for thought. When I did the full Victron electrical system upgrade, I wanted to also upgrade the mounting method of most of these components. As you have found, sheet metal screws into PVC board isn’t exactly the most secure. So for most of the components I installed, I also used brass threaded inserts of various sizes - depending on the weight of the component and the mounting - vertical or horizontal. It’s a little more work, but it’s a very secure mounting method if installed correctly. https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Insert-Internal-Threads/dp/B00207NF6W/ref=sr_1_8?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.DGW1I2sdUlWBQMbecRdN1iMmRcq6Ckucrt-5cHlTGY5RYWzcdmFoUG4qRk6LclmKYaxzhYX3lC7tfKsu8RDNblUeEkg54NBy50z3oBTFE5ZeP59dsYyB4WHq758aJz0K8CHMucPo9GtVKiC5c2rR4i4KRmqwaw1-nVPauSmq1tey0aUXEeRBoIQcNAFNdicNHu3sHwVWwfrgj5PemUXIGRHLK2gziE078GGFLwrPe74._T9JMhLIQjGnr1JN_QYoT8MS7rGJPVIZT_YbZ3oUNjc&dib_tag=se&keywords=threaded%2Binserts&qid=1759539352&refinements=p_n_material_browse%3A17548933011&rnid=17548926011&sr=8-8&th=1

I have a Xantrex 2000 watt inverter removed for installation of the Victron MP2. If you are near Atlanta, come by and make me a deal.