Ronbrink

Even if I had solar, I keep my ‘COW’ in a fully enclosed storage facility which would nuke that option to keep the house batteries topped off. Been thinking the solution is to install a separate dedicated battery charger, set the ‘Inverter Ignition Control’ to AUTO as you stated, and thus, not rely on the Xantrex charge function.

Thanks for the detailed response! I did not opt for solar, but did get the Xantrex Freedom X 2000 being offered at the time, as well as four 6v Trojans. With the recent upgrade to lithiums, I’ve been dialing in the Xantrex settings to best suit them, and installed a Victron shunt for better monitoring. There is a charge cycle when first on shore power, but the batteries will continue to discharge until manually instigating the charge cycling again. From what I understand, that is ‘normal’ for Xantrex.

What are you using to charge to 14.4v, my inverter/charger won’t completely top-off my LFPs. 2020 OLEll, 579

To topgun2’s point, I make use of a digital water flow meter connected directly to the dump station’s water spigot, next a hose valve to control flow, then a dedicated 25’ Zero-G hose with a quick disconnect to the black tank rinse-out port inlet. This assembly is rolled up and stowed within the rear bumper compartment when not in use. Prior to dumping the black tank, I setup this rinse hose assembly; the dump station hose is removed from the spigot regardless of condition. Once the black tank is initially dumped, the black tank valve is closed. I then zero out the meter, open the hose valve, then measure 10-12 gallons before dumping the rinse water; the hose valve remains open during this rinse dump process. When complete, the black tank dump valve is again closed, the meter is zeroed out and water allowed to fill to the measured amount. This rinse cycle is repeated up to three times. The use of the meter does not require having to go in and out of the OTT to monitor the tank level, which is not accurate, especially with the tongue raised to better hasten the dump.

Here’s a pic with the sewer hose attached. When I stated “just enough room”, the rear bumper when closed does not press against the hose when attached. It could probably be compressed into a smaller space with a tighter install, but that’s not ideal. Personally, having the hose connected when not is use has no benefit, in fact there may even be undue stress at that bend in doing so. I showed in another comment the end cap used, maybe you should consider doing the same if the WM appeals to you. I can see where the male CAM lock to bayonet adapter could work in your desired application.

Typical installation requires altering the OTT’s discharge pipe by shearing off the bayonet retention posts and gluing on a supplied female CAM lock fitting to connect the WM, which is what I did. However, bayonet fitting converters are available and perhaps can alternatively be used to maintain subsequent use of any bayonet-type applications. In my instance, there is just enough room to keep the sewer hose connected, but is generally disconnected and capped, as explained in another comment. As measured, that distance is 4.5” from the closest point of the female CAM lock fitting to the inside rear bumper surface. That distance, at minimum, would be your target with use of said converter in an install.

Agree, there are simply times when a garden hose would suffice for dumping gray water. So, I often utilize an alternative to the traditional sewer hose when wanting to rid excessive gray water when the black tank still has usable capacity, thus avoid having to break camp prematurely. There are also times when traveling following a CG dump that the head may be decommissioned, but there is gray water accumulation. In these instances, this Waste Master accessory enables use of a garden hose, as needed. However, in my setup there is a six foot section of 5/8” ID clear silicone tubing fitted with a PVC ball valve at its’ terminus. I keep this attached, as it also serves to visibly inspect for potential leaks/seepage from the closed OTT dump valves, and is readied for any gray water dumping; the length is enough to reach most dump receptacles, as well.

My thought in buying the Waste Master was that if it lasts 2X longer than the leading competitor at twice the price then nothing lost, right? My Amazon purchase three years ago was $133, double the cost of the former Rhino Extreme setup. Now get this, I listed the Oliver Camco (still in the box) and the Rhino Extreme (used one year) on Marketplace, and sold for $17 and $80, respectively. I should mention the Rhino also went with an orange garden hose (for black tank/sewer hose rinse) and a Valterra Twist-On waste valve. That said, in actuality my upgrade was not that expensive. No regrets, the upgrade resolved a year’s worth of frustration trying to stuff the ‘uncooperative’ Rhino into its’ cage and other cumbersome antics, and having a single connection with the very secure CAM lock is unsurpassed satisfaction. Another worthy note, there is less anxiety at the dump station that ‘all will go well’ as either dump valve is opened; think sewer hose staying in place and/or hose end jumping out of position at the sewer receptacle, thus resulting in a much dreaded unintentional release, yuk! I can now open the ‘primary’ dump valve at the OTT, then hold in place the sewer hose terminus as the ‘secondary’ valve is opened. WOW, I never imagined this task being fun as opposed to just a chore, but I’ve digressed! NOW. when curious drive-bys slowly pass while dumping, I’m never certain if they’re checking out the Oliver or the Waste Master!

Yep, in good keeping; Oliver owners ‘spare no expense’!

I transitioned from Rhino Extreme with twist-on lug fittings to Waste Master with CAM lock fittings. I didn’t like the way the Rhino would ‘snake’ and expand in length when dumping, and carrying two 10’ sections, just in case extra length was needed, was a tight fit in the rear compartment. The WM 20’ hose is more robust and smoother inside for better flow and ease of cleaning, compresses to ~5’, holds the desired extended length when setup; and has a clear view port, 90° discharge with a handle, control valve and rubber doughnut at its’ terminus.

Thanks, I really appreciate the offer. Actually I bought hole plugs, just haven’t installed them yet; I tend to save the easier things for last! Again thanks!

Well, I tend to over-think and over-engineer everything, drives my wife nuts! Not that “serious”, but if I told someone my motto was “I strive for perfection to achieve satisfaction”, maybe they would understand! As for testing, I can only do so much in the driveway; need to travel and camp to see how all performs, or is that just an excuse to pack up and get away? This would be a ‘one trip wonder’ to see if I’m ‘there yet’. More to come, hopefully sooner than later.

Kinda, removed the original Lagun plate that Oliver installed on the nightstand, and used it with a dynamic system I designed and built. I field tested an initial prototype with much success a few months ago. However, further iterations needed to address some inherent design flaws have taken the months since. I am now ready to perform a stress test on the system, followed by more field tests for functionally and safe usage. The only other information willing to share at this time is that the nightstand drawer is no longer obstructed.

I too have the BedRug with bottom, sides and tailgate coverage in my 2012 short bed TV, as well as an A.R.E. cap lined with the same carpet material. As some mentioned, easy on the knees, as well as an insulating factor and sound reduction. 11 years and counting with little signs of wear or staining. I have furniture carpet slides on the bottom of a large frig/freezer that work great in handling it. Although a cap will add significant weight, it provides protection and security, as well as added space, especially for bikes and even a loft. I also installed a 200W solar array atop the cap.

I find the Lagun most useful as a bed table, especially in the morning to accommodate an iPad and coffee while sitting up against the rear wall, as well as the evening in similar manner. I can also use it at the other end when watching TV. Of course the table serves other purposes, as you mention, and thus its’ versatility and usefulness justifies leaving it up full time. Currently in the process of mounting a second for the wife’s bed.

Got it, I totally misunderstood your situation. Good that you have the level issue figured out!

Not only overcomming the “complexity of these units”, but it can be a real chore loading and unloading the TV and Oliver prior to and on return when traveling; as well as setting up and stricking camp, especially after an extended stay. I will share a saying that makes it worth the effort: ‘You work for your pleasure when you RV’! And I will add, as you well know by now, memories are made with each ‘Oliventure’!

Had the same scenario last June when I went on my first ‘solo’ trip to Davis Mountains SP in West Texas. I purchased the inReach Explorer+ and the SAR insurance plan they offer. The Service Plan I got can be suspended and reactivated as a cost savings measure. I was able to let my wife know I was okay when out on the trails or biking AND if something were to happen to me that Search And Rescue (SAR) was a push of a button away!

That is a great idea! Mine is currently located in the battery compartment and constantly ON.

I find this procedure quite useful. I have managed to get cell service, although limited at times, in areas said to have “no cell service” for calls and text messaging, but sending photos was sporadic. In doing so my phone’s ‘personal hotspot’ provided internet access.

You really should consider getting a hitch that will level the Oliver when under tow. The optimum ball height should be 23.5” from what I recall. There are many riser type adjustable hitches available, check out etrailer.com then do a price comparison/Amazon availability search.

I get it, happens often in the house when the smoke detector batteries are low. I always know when I’m in trouble when called out by my birth name, followed by “you can’t hear that?”. Okay, it’s just a high pitched chirp, but the hearing ain’t what it used to be! Thanks for the p.s.; regardless of how annoying the situation, the threat assessment is paramount to one’s safety and well-being.

I got this for the hitch ball, gonna give it a try on the steps! Amazon purchase, per product info: “Say goodbye to white and black grease stains. This multi-use, non-melting, waterproof grease is fortified with PTFE, the ultimate in nonstick technology.” I’m also a fan of their Silicone Paste dielectric grease.

Try OdoBan, I use it to eliminate lingering fish odors in my skiff.

Thanks for he heads up, need to check the date on our 2020 OLEll, 579!