Ronbrink

Did you ever post a pic of the TIG welds? Seems a spot weld could be done without crimping, what think you?

Just curious why a new burner was even needed since it too had ends in need of crimping. Was there a reason the original burner could not be crimped and made use of?

One of the last ‘must have’ transitions from the former TV to the Savana is the DC-DC charging cable setup and rear-mounted Anderson connection. The full length 4 AWG dedicated cables running from battery to rear bumper off the Silverado required no alteration with this retrofit. Admittedly said cables, rear bumper connection, a solenoid and ANL 60/fuse box were installed a few months ago, but activation was delayed pending install of the Mechman 320A alternator. The solenoid serves to energize the cable connection via a fuse tap trigger wire from the under hood fuse box and thus, requiring keyed power ignition for use as a precautionary measure. Current fuse taps include the solenoid trigger wire, as well as one for the alternator and Air Lift power. Solenoid and ANL fuse locations. Rear bumper-mounted Anderson connection with Environmental Boot. Now that the Savana is readied for towing and other operational needs, there are a couple of other ‘wants’ in sight; van rooftop solar for the portable power station that runs my Dometic CFX3 75DZ, and custom swing away racks for my two Wavian Jerry Cans and spare 30# propane tank. Stayed tuned!

I read this post in SDG’s FB on general humidity control measures and thought these tips may be of interest:

You done good! Here is an excerpt from Mechman’s Alternator Installation instructions, wherein 4 AWG is shown to be sufficient for your 180A alternator.

Mechman specifies the 1/0 Gauge copper wire for ‘return ground’ and ‘alternator charge’ cables to battery with their 250-400 amp rated alternators, and a battery fuse size of 400A. They also recommend increasing the B- to body wire size, which could explain the extra wire from my previous install. Thanks again for your input!

The 1/0 Gauge ground cable (shown) from alternator mount to B- and a like size alternator+ to B+ are two of the ‘Big 3’ players recommended by Mechman with their high output alternators. The Savana already had a robust ground cable from B- to engine block to include a fine stranded braided cable split to frame for additional grounding. Would there be any benefit or need for another ground from alternator mount to body?

A couple days ago I successfully installed the Mechman 320A high output alternator and cable upgrades, previously on the former TV, to further enhance the Savana’s charging system. I should mention that a battery swap was done two months prior with the ACDelco top post battery a better choice for performance and reliability. Even though Mechman does not offer an alternator for the Savana, the mounting bracket and wiring appeared exactly the same as the Silverado’s; so my hopes were high that the stock 150A alternator could be replaced despite the seven year gap in year models and GMC 6.0L vs GM 5.3L engine size, respectively. Another consideration, the high output alternator requires a smaller pulley and thus, a bit shorter serpentine belt. Again, the new belt from the Silverado install was a perfect fit for the Savana. ACDelco battery, as installed. Removal of the stock 150A alternator in progress. Mounting bracket cleaned and readied for Mechman 320A. Side-by-side alternator comparison. Mechman alternator a perfect fit. Note additional grounding cable at the mounting bolt.

Looks like you decided on LiTime LFPs, if so good decision! This was my final configuration, also to include a Victron SmartShunt and ANL 250-Amp fuse.

I had the same issue with one of my breakers, specifically a circuit breakers with manual reset. Replaced the faulty stock Chinese made breaker for this one, problem solved. The last pic was posted by another owner and shows the breaker I replaced, labeled 12V BREAKER in his illustration.

I have read where you recently stated this TS is not suited for use with the Xantrex 3000. I would think it could as long as you don’t exceed 20A. I read a review on Amazon wherein one was used when on 30/50 amp shore power for three auxiliary outlets without issue, and subsequently when on inverter; however, the size of inverter was not disclosed. The following pic was provided me upon request by another owner prior to my install; the installation is very straightforward. Since the plug cable on the TS20A is very short, I made an extension from the formerly unused outlet on the Xantrax-mounted GFCI receptacle to a remote duplex receptacle for purpose of creating additional outlets for said TS. Here are pics of the inverter’s GFCI with a plugged cable leading to the microwave, and the added duplex receptacle box installed.

Here’s an interesting fact: In further researching the origin of the Atmos 4.4, I learned that Dreiha also offers 2.5 and 3.5 models, 7.5K and 11K, respectively. However, these units are primarily manufactured for European markets and are 220-240v with R410A refrigerant, but still have the same ‘SANZ’ connections as the Atmos 4.4; German designed and foreign made at one of the aforementioned SANZ Clima facilities. I’m even more convinced there is no China connection with these Dreiha products!

With my auxiliary outlet installs, I choose duplex receptacles with USB charging ports, as well. For example:

That is correct, but @Teaney Hull 292 can install a dedicated transfer switch to run the a/c on inverter with an LFP upgrade.

Unfortunately, Mechman does not offer an alternator for your Nissan. If you are having issue with your stock alternator, a direct replacement may be all needed. However, in my situation where a 40A DC-DC charger was installed and my stock alternator was aged, the high output replacement was a great solution for my inherent battery charging system problems. If you plan or already installed a DC-DC charger, then definitely consider an upgrade. If you cannot find an aftermarket high output alternator for your specific vehicle, then check if Nissan offers an alternator with a higher amp rating. In my application, the 320A alternator required a ‘Big 3’ cable upgrade, which would even benefit a stock alternator.

Or they reverse engineered!

I’m certain this refers to the same gear drive motors for the front and rear ADB ‘up & down swing’ angles of the Atmos, no pics.

Once the Oliver is brought to a desired temp, in Cool Mode the fan can be set to its lowest setting to address your concern. For high humidity conditions, Dry Mode is very effective, and the fan only operates at low speed and cannot be adjusted. I don’t know why the air flow CFM range is seemingly unavailable.

I did a brief search of Dreiha Atmos 4.4 specific information, but found no formal references regarding actual CFM or EER ratings. I did however, find this statement on the Sprinter forum, not conclusive but remember reading this when I was considering the Atmos. I will say this unit will blow my hair when standing at the wet bath doorway, not so with the former DPll! I also recalled wherein @rideadeuce included this unit sticker in his writeup on the SDG install. Interesting enough, it shows ‘SANZ DREIHA GMBH - GERMANY’; when researched the location is Bremen, Germany. Another fact I remember reading, the Atmos was German engineered. Furthermore, Page 7of7 of the Dreiha Atmos 4.4 brochure also shows other ‘SANZ’ affiliates; SANZ Kenway and SANZ Clima, headquartered in Fairmount, Minnesota and Madrid, Spain, respectively. SANZ Kenway “custom designs and manufactures mobile air conditioning and heating components and systems…”; SANZ Clima has factories in Spain, USA (Fairmont, MN), Germany, Brazil and Poland. Could this be the origin of the Atmos 4.4 and not China (think GREE branded knockoff products), perhaps even Made in the USA? I know, another ‘can of worms’! Where was the ATMOS designed an where manufactured? @Geronimo John once asked. Maybe getting closer to a definitive answer, but then….

Not to further confuse the issue, but just viewed another like unit offered on Amazon, FOGATTI. What caught my attention was the much higher CFM air flow and EER ratings on this unit compared to the Tosto. I seem to remember reading that the Atmos had comparable high CFM, but need to research for confirmation on that. NEway, would be good to know if there are in fact subtle differences in these very similar units and thus, some actually better than others; also the reason for the price disparity. Just say’n!

I was wondering the same so went into the Tosot Owner’s Manual prior to my last reply to @Ty J and read R32. Hopefully he can offer further confirmation per your request.

GREE manufactures several like units including your Tosot, they are all seemingly the same as the Atmos. You got a very good deal and current pricing on Amazon is now $100 higher, but still a value buy. Others may be interested in knowing what added costs there may be, specifically tax and shipping if applicable. The TURBRO soft start is interesting and value priced, as well, however I would be concerned with its quality. And yes, you are better off having a soft start device if running on LFPs, good move and install! You may want to add an informational ‘Signature’, go to Account Settings.

Good catch! Same thing happened to me early in ownership; crimped the spade connector for a tighter fit, no further issues.

My former a/c was the 11K DPll and I would run the LFPs to 50% SOC, never had a reason for a longer period of discharge. Last September a more efficient Dreiha Atmos 4.4 (15K/12K heat pump) was installed and looking forward to a hot summer test for run duration. In general, I run on inverter for lengthy periods at the Cow Barn when performing maintenance, cleanup, travel prep or just hanging out. Upon departure, shore power then provides 80A charge via the Xantrex 2000, however if the SOC was dropped below 75% an auxiliary onboard 30A Victron Blue Smart charger kicks in via a Cerbo for a combined 110A of rapid charge. When traveling, the a/c is run on inverter during various stops to eat, shop, rest etc., as necessary, and when back underway a 40A DC-DC charger then restores the SOC until a destination is reached. If the night’s stay is off grid and a/c is needed, a small dual fuel genny on propane is deployed, which also brings the LFPs to 100% SOC. This is how we roll given our style of camping; lack of solar has never been an issue, nor thoughts of a larger Ah battery bank.

I use mine to run the a/c at nights, as needed, which is often as we make our way to and from a far destination. In doing so, my house batteries get a boost, as well, with no solar. Although I can run the a/c on inverter for several hours, I like knowing we can stay comfortable in the event of a lengthy unplanned holdover. Happy wife, happy ‘travel’ life!