Ronbrink

@Boudicca908 Alternatively, one can take their zerks to most any hardware store and use a convenient thread gauge (SAE/Metric) to determine thread size, then order online or purchase at a retail store exactly what is needed. Grainger’s offers stainless steel zerks and protective caps; no worry of rust and corrosions, or road grime with the two. As a side note, once the thread size is determined also get a matching nut to ‘thread test’ the other zerks as removed; if the nut doesn’t easily thread on then a different thread size zerk will be needed in that instance.

Q1 - A word of caution, my 2020 OLEll had two different thread size zerks; specifically 1/4-28 and M6x1mm. Other than a couple of 90° at EZ-Flex top, I choose to replace the stock straight ones with 45° angle zerks to ease servicing. I ordered mine from Grainger’s. Q2 - Turn counter clockwise (left) to loosen, clockwise (right) to tighten. Q3 - An adjustable wrench will have too much play and you will end up rounding the bolt head. Use the appropriate box end wrench, based on the thread type as to whether a Standard or Metric wrench is needed. Likewise a proper socket may suffice, but I like being able to see the zerk when removing.

Good choice!

Exactly, one can always use the Hull # to cross reference individual ‘signatures’ on the forum for additional information.

I use Red Line CV-2 grease in a jar for wheel bearings and Lucas Red ‘N’ Tacky grease for the suspension. Amazon purchases, free delivery. Note: A jar of the CV-2 will grease bearings on two axles and then some.

Any update on the rally, planned activities, etc.?

To be clear I only travel with the ebikes on the front-mounted rack within a park or to areas of proximity, not en route to a destination. Once camp is setup and TV disconnected, the ebikes are then deployed.

I recently experienced this at my storage facility, thanks for your explanation of the probable cause!

A similar QuikrStuff bike rack is mounted on the front of the TV when traveling; and used in like manner when at camp, as well as securement and protection. Our folding ebikes are transported under cap in the truck bed.

You’ve heard it from me a time or two before and probably will a time or two again, “don’t thread on Crazy Horse”! NOTE: To set the record straight, the term ‘You’ve’, as used above, denotes everyone on the forum and not meant to apply to any single individual!

Which model did you get? I see two at $997, models ending in 110 and 120.

Hope the Atmos 4.4 is working out well for you! I ordered one yesterday, should be shipped next Monday. I went back, but could not find what size Dometic Pll you had, was it the 13.5k? I’ll be replacing an 11k, which pulls 1400-1500W. A performance satisfaction update would be much appreciated, thanks.

It would be easy to do. Mine came notched on both sides; driver side benefits the sewer hose hookup, passenger side the propane quick connect and now the hose nozzle as well.

I’m in the ‘full tank’ camp, I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it! Also carry a LifeSaver Jerrycan and case of bottled water.

Bed Scrunchies are your friend. Shown using standard twin sheets on our KTTs. Stand on edge to make up. No problem when accessing hatch areas, sheets don’t get “messed up”! .

Quoting myself to make a point. The first pic is a 20’ section (when extended) of RhinoExtreme sewer hose, very difficult to stow since it bulges out (snakes) when attempting to contain in the rear bumper compartment. The second pic is the same extended length of Waste Master sewer hose, much more manageable! And yes, the nozzle end can be rotated to position the valve handle facing upward, thus allowing it to easily pass through the notched (wider) opening at the compartment end. Also shown is the gray water hose with end valve.

Firstly, if the hose is collapsing there must be an extremely tight system to ensure no leakage. Secondly, there is a measure to prevent collapsing when deploying. Thirdly, the coils are on the outside, which makes for a smoother inside. This is a costly setup, but 1) the coils are rigid enough to hold shape when stowed and deployed, no frustrating snaking around, 2) a 5.5’ section will expand to 20’, 3) the 90° end nozzle has a valve handle to better manage the dump process, and 4) the cam lock will not loosen or come off during deployment and/or use as will the typical bayonet style if care is not taken, think accidental unintended release…..oops!

Crack the hose terminal valve open a bit to relieve the internal pressure to prevent collapsing, makes deployment to required length much easier.

A look at my permanently installed black tank connection; requires cutting off the bayonet coupler and gluing on the cam lock fitting. View of waste hose connected; allows for rear bumper to be closed. However, I usually keep an end cap fitted with a hose for gray water management; the hose has a valve at its’ terminus. Another benefit, the clear silicone hose serves as a sight glass in the event of a black tank valve leak.

Sourced replacement fuses on eBay, best to carry with!

Perhaps @rideadeuce captured that information and can provide a measurement. EDIT: @Geronimo John, the Atmos 4.4 unit height measures 11.14” and 12.17” installed, if I’m interpreting the Technical Details correctly.

Amazon purchases, as shown below. I choose the clear acrylic rod as to not obstruct light from the under cabinet fixture. There is enough room to flip the light switch with an upward facing open hand. I choose clear plastic shower curtain rings, as well. A change of clothes or other apparel can be staged on the toilet seat underneath the curtain when showering. If one has the composting toilet it would be well protected from moisture. The curtain can either be left draped over or tucked behind the toilet to dry. I find it best to squeegee the wet surfaces, then leave the vent fan on with the door closed during the drying process to reduce humidity in the cabin. I have never had a problem with the door leaking during a shower. ADDED TIP: Hooks are placed to each side of the upper cabinet, one for his and her hand towels, and the other to stage a squeegee for the after shower cleanup.

Generally, only one or the other will come on given the situation. Upon occasion in hot weather when A/C is needed while in storage the situation arises, as described above, wherein both chargers are engaged simultaneously. As programmed, the Victron will turn off at 95% SOC and the Xantrex will continue to 100% SOC. Worst case scenario, I’ll have to upgrade to one of the Victron 3000W inverters if the Xantrex inverter and/or charger completely fails! Oh Darn!

If you would go back and reread my last, I may have been editing it as you were sending this. But then maybe not!

I don’t know how to answer your question other than by example. The attached chart from Oliver shows a ‘Charger Current’ setting of 150A supplied by a Xantrex 3000W (3.0) unit in an Elite ll equipped with either a 390 or 640AH Lithium battery package. For Elite l with a 260AH battery bank and Xantrex 2000W (2.0) unit, 100A. I should note however, that my stated 108A combined charge current (110A minus a couple amps of draw) was not sustained for long and soon after showed erratic output in the 38 to 107 amp range. When checked, the Victron charger was steady, whereas the Xantrex output varied.