Ronbrink

My thought in buying the Waste Master was that if it lasts 2X longer than the leading competitor at twice the price then nothing lost, right? My Amazon purchase three years ago was $133, double the cost of the former Rhino Extreme setup. Now get this, I listed the Oliver Camco (still in the box) and the Rhino Extreme (used one year) on Marketplace, and sold for $17 and $80, respectively. I should mention the Rhino also went with an orange garden hose (for black tank/sewer hose rinse) and a Valterra Twist-On waste valve. That said, in actuality my upgrade was not that expensive. No regrets, the upgrade resolved a year’s worth of frustration trying to stuff the ‘uncooperative’ Rhino into its’ cage and other cumbersome antics, and having a single connection with the very secure CAM lock is unsurpassed satisfaction. Another worthy note, there is less anxiety at the dump station that ‘all will go well’ as either dump valve is opened; think sewer hose staying in place and/or hose end jumping out of position at the sewer receptacle, thus resulting in a much dreaded unintentional release, yuk! I can now open the ‘primary’ dump valve at the OTT, then hold in place the sewer hose terminus as the ‘secondary’ valve is opened. WOW, I never imagined this task being fun as opposed to just a chore, but I’ve digressed! NOW. when curious drive-bys slowly pass while dumping, I’m never certain if they’re checking out the Oliver or the Waste Master!

Yep, in good keeping; Oliver owners ‘spare no expense’!

I transitioned from Rhino Extreme with twist-on lug fittings to Waste Master with CAM lock fittings. I didn’t like the way the Rhino would ‘snake’ and expand in length when dumping, and carrying two 10’ sections, just in case extra length was needed, was a tight fit in the rear compartment. The WM 20’ hose is more robust and smoother inside for better flow and ease of cleaning, compresses to ~5’, holds the desired extended length when setup; and has a clear view port, 90° discharge with a handle, control valve and rubber doughnut at its’ terminus.

Thanks, I really appreciate the offer. Actually I bought hole plugs, just haven’t installed them yet; I tend to save the easier things for last! Again thanks!

Well, I tend to over-think and over-engineer everything, drives my wife nuts! Not that “serious”, but if I told someone my motto was “I strive for perfection to achieve satisfaction”, maybe they would understand! As for testing, I can only do so much in the driveway; need to travel and camp to see how all performs, or is that just an excuse to pack up and get away? This would be a ‘one trip wonder’ to see if I’m ‘there yet’. More to come, hopefully sooner than later.

Kinda, removed the original Lagun plate that Oliver installed on the nightstand, and used it with a dynamic system I designed and built. I field tested an initial prototype with much success a few months ago. However, further iterations needed to address some inherent design flaws have taken the months since. I am now ready to perform a stress test on the system, followed by more field tests for functionally and safe usage. The only other information willing to share at this time is that the nightstand drawer is no longer obstructed.

I too have the BedRug with bottom, sides and tailgate coverage in my 2012 short bed TV, as well as an A.R.E. cap lined with the same carpet material. As some mentioned, easy on the knees, as well as an insulating factor and sound reduction. 11 years and counting with little signs of wear or staining. I have furniture carpet slides on the bottom of a large frig/freezer that work great in handling it. Although a cap will add significant weight, it provides protection and security, as well as added space, especially for bikes and even a loft. I also installed a 200W solar array atop the cap.

I find the Lagun most useful as a bed table, especially in the morning to accommodate an iPad and coffee while sitting up against the rear wall, as well as the evening in similar manner. I can also use it at the other end when watching TV. Of course the table serves other purposes, as you mention, and thus its’ versatility and usefulness justifies leaving it up full time. Currently in the process of mounting a second for the wife’s bed.

Got it, I totally misunderstood your situation. Good that you have the level issue figured out!

Not only overcomming the “complexity of these units”, but it can be a real chore loading and unloading the TV and Oliver prior to and on return when traveling; as well as setting up and stricking camp, especially after an extended stay. I will share a saying that makes it worth the effort: ‘You work for your pleasure when you RV’! And I will add, as you well know by now, memories are made with each ‘Oliventure’!

Had the same scenario last June when I went on my first ‘solo’ trip to Davis Mountains SP in West Texas. I purchased the inReach Explorer+ and the SAR insurance plan they offer. The Service Plan I got can be suspended and reactivated as a cost savings measure. I was able to let my wife know I was okay when out on the trails or biking AND if something were to happen to me that Search And Rescue (SAR) was a push of a button away!

That is a great idea! Mine is currently located in the battery compartment and constantly ON.

I find this procedure quite useful. I have managed to get cell service, although limited at times, in areas said to have “no cell service” for calls and text messaging, but sending photos was sporadic. In doing so my phone’s ‘personal hotspot’ provided internet access.

You really should consider getting a hitch that will level the Oliver when under tow. The optimum ball height should be 23.5” from what I recall. There are many riser type adjustable hitches available, check out etrailer.com then do a price comparison/Amazon availability search.

I get it, happens often in the house when the smoke detector batteries are low. I always know when I’m in trouble when called out by my birth name, followed by “you can’t hear that?”. Okay, it’s just a high pitched chirp, but the hearing ain’t what it used to be! Thanks for the p.s.; regardless of how annoying the situation, the threat assessment is paramount to one’s safety and well-being.

I got this for the hitch ball, gonna give it a try on the steps! Amazon purchase, per product info: “Say goodbye to white and black grease stains. This multi-use, non-melting, waterproof grease is fortified with PTFE, the ultimate in nonstick technology.” I’m also a fan of their Silicone Paste dielectric grease.

Try OdoBan, I use it to eliminate lingering fish odors in my skiff.

Thanks for he heads up, need to check the date on our 2020 OLEll, 579!

When replacing the stock grease zerks on the Dexter Axle suspension with angled zerks, I found some to be SAE and others metric. A return trip to Grainger’s got it done!

. My TST repeater install, inside the battery box with direct connection to the batteries. No connectivity issues for three years, other than from weak monitor batteries which are easy to replace. I also have monitors on the TV. The ‘early warning’ a TPMS provides is most definitely a preventative measure to lessen the occurrence of a blowout or other catastrophic situation.

You may have been disappointed with the initial end results, but I see a huge benefit with this mod when it comes to cleaning and maintenance matters. I can see where having the trailer positioned in alignment with the rising and setting sun would probably give the results you are seeking. Good luck with your endeavor!

The brake assembly shown on the right is definitely a ‘left-hand’ Dexter Nev-R-Adjust. It will be interesting to see if the corresponding assembly on the curb side is the same, other than being the ‘right-hand’ equivalent. If so, it is possible you have two different axles. Perhaps one was a replacement as you speculate; hard to believe Oliver would mix-and-match axles. Here’s a pic of my curb side; you can see the adjustment cable to the left of the spindle (right-hand version), whereas yours is to the right (left-hand version). You might want to check if your axles still have the manufacturer’s sticker(s). I removed these from one axle for preservation sake. As a side note, to quote John E Davies “Be very sure to lube all the many moving parts of the brakes after a deep clean, they will not work properly otherwise.”, this is what I use.

Your pic got me to think’n, mine are different so did some research. I have the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust electric brake setup, 2020 OLEll, 579.

I was confused when reading that the ‘quieter’ a/c replacements draw 10 amps compared to the stock Dometic Penguin ll at 16 amps. I too have a 100+ amp DC draw on battery and understand now that the 10 and 16 values cited are AC amps, thus resolving the confusion. It’s also worth noting the aforementioned 100+ amp DC draw is with the compressor running, otherwise the draw is in the 30+ amp range. Also, when the 20 amp DC/DC charger is activated my draw values drop accordingly. I recently completed my transfer switch install with the information you provided and all is good running the a/c on batteries now. Thanks for the assistance, much appreciated!

Sounds like you’re gonna DIY the bearing overhaul! Did the same last May, went with the Timkens as well, from Summit Racing. The CRC degreaser and brake cleaners I used worked great along with a parts cleaning brush and drip pan. I also ordered a brass drift punch for use in driving out the races and the Red Line CV-2 grease that John E Davies highly recommends. I found placing paper towels under the spindle prior to installing the bearings useful in keeping grease off the underlying brake components. Since the wheels are off and grease likely leaked from the rear seals, take time to throughly cleanup residuals and wash the tires. If you haven’t done so already, now would be a good time the replace the grease zerks with the angled variety. Many install 90°, but I choose 45° from Grainger’s. Good luck with your endeavor!