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I leave the hose connected all the time. I’ve done this since Oliver returned the OEII to me after a service with it still hooked up. Once done draining, I put the end cap on the open end which seals the hose. For us, it is gray water only.

I do have to remove the wheels which is why I will use a right angle adapter instead. If anyone has a preference, please tell me as I would rather not have to buy both.

LockNLube has three right angle adapters. The more expensive one at $16.99 is the one that was linked earlier in this thread. The one I'm considering is this "simple" one at $10.99. The former one is shorter at 0.8" while the latter is 2.15". Anyone have experience with it, or with both? The third one is the push-on adapter that looks like it will not work for the upper zerks.

I have the Lithium Pro package and have never seen this issue. Which package do you have, Platinum or Pro?

The picture shows the zerks pointing inward. On my hull they point outward. Without removing tires, the 90 degree grease gun adapter is necessary. I wonder why this was changed?

I can't help with finding the phone as it is a problem I often have myself. Finding the app is simplified for me because I organize all my apps in folders and then organize the folders alphabetically. This folder is named "Oliver" and it contains Lithionics, Xantrex, LevelMate, and WBA Check. In the folder I organize based on frequency of usage, although with only four apps in this one that's hardly important.

It works well for us too. However, although humidity is reduced, temperature is also reduced, and this can be drastic. I have noted temperatures as cold as 60 degrees. Hopefully the remote did the trick, and there is nothing wrong with your unit.

I agree with the points above, although it wasn't clear from your post whether or not you will focus on full service campgrounds or boon docking. Although I didn't see it specifically mentioned, I will assume the larger Oliver Elite II. For boon docking: 1. Get the most electrical power you can. This means at least the Lithium Pro package and preferably the Platinum package. 2. Get the composting toilet (Nature's Head). It is a learning experience but it is better for off-grid camping of more than a couple of days. For full hookup style camping: 1. You should at least get solar and the AGM batteries because there will always be some situations where hookups are not available (e.g., Harvest Host). 2. The standard flush toilet is easier than the composting toilet to use. For a TV: Get a 3/4 ton or bigger. You don't need a weight distribution hitch (WDH) and you can carry more cargo. Regarding diesel vs gas, modern diesels are much more powerful and fuel efficient, meaning you will get more range on a tank of gas. If you plan some long rural trips such as to Alaska this could be the thing that helps you avoid getting stranded. OTOH, gas vehicles are less expensive and finding repair facilities is easier. Either type of heavy duty tow vehicle will get you over the western mountains, although the diesel will do it with more ease. A half ton will require a WDH. Anything lighter may not leave you with enough payload. Be aware that if you violate vehicle towing/weight limits and get into an accident, you may have trouble getting insurance to pay, trouble with any lawsuits against you, and you will be at least partially at fault in any accident. Regarding the air conditioner: Many of the current owners have been forced to upgrade from the Dometic Penguin to another solution due to the "near jet engine" noise level. The three are the Oliver-installed Truma Aventa, the Houghton RecPro, and the Dometic FreshJet. The Houghton and FreshJet are not supported by Oliver, and the upgrade after-sale to the Truma Aventa is around $3,600. If AC is important to you, don't skimp on this option. Regarding the Oliver hitch: We did not opt for this, but now regret it because I have resumed bicycle riding. Getting it after sale was quoted at $1,125. It's probably cheaper if you just check the box on the options sheet. Regarding research: I studied the market looking for the ideal trailer for our goals which are very similar to yours. At one point I was thinking of an Airstream Classic. I found Oliver on line by accident. Having already seen all of the Airstream models we took a factory tour at Oliver. By the time we left Hohenwald we had our OEII on order. After having been in many other makes and models at various dealers and RV shows, being inside an OEII (twin) just plain felt right to both of us. Quality is extremely important to me and the OEII definitely measures up. We've put over 13.5K miles on it touring the nation and have no regrets. That said, after deciding, I spent the next nine months (order duration during 2020-2021) studying all of the owners manuals. I also spent a considerable amount of time before that studying tow vehicles and the science of towing, including all of the various measurements (GVWR, GCWR, etc.), evaluating vehicles to decide which would actually do for the kind of towing we had planned.

We had the retrofit completed on 6/23 and have the following observations: Truma Aventa Improvements over Dometic Penguin: Drastic reduction in noise volume. I can hear it but unlike the Penguin I can talk over it with normal voice and be heard. I can watch movies and listen to music now without resorting to absurd volume levels. From outside the trailer it is almost impossible to determine that it’s running. At Camp Oliver, I noted the latter on two other OEIIs, one new and one other retrofit. Having a remote allows control without having to get out of bed. In high humidity environments, the dehumidify mode can quickly cut the relative humidity in half (about 15 minutes, not measured). I haven’t measured it yet but it does appear to reduce trailer maximum height by a couple of inches. The interior feels more comfortable with the Aventa than with the Penguin. It distributes air better and cools more quickly. Anomalies: According to Oliver and Truma, the filters are not cleanable and must be replaced at an approximate cost of $30/pair. (The filters do however appear to be cleanable.) The Penguin has cleanable filters. Dehumidify function is not available on CPPlus control. The CPPlus and IR remote controls are independent. Neither learns all of the settings performed by the other control (the CPPlus does learn some settings). This is not relevant to the water heater which can only be controlled by the CPPlus. The CPPlus rotary push button has a very stiff feel. I often have to push it multiple times to get it to work while avoiding applying excessive force. I wonder if this is a defective unit? The dehumidify function may drastically lower the temperature. I noted a nine degree drop (to 62) the first time I used it. On subsequent uses, the drop was more like 3-4 degrees. The dehumidify function is free-running with no added control. For example, there is no way to set a desired relative humidity nor a temperature limiting range. The lower panel cover on the IR remote is mostly in the way. Commonly used functions such as Dehumidify and Night Mode are hidden. I slide the panel open and then do not latch it closed unless I’m traveling. The IR receiver is too precise, meaning that one must accurately point the remote at it for the function to take effect. This results in a common error, meaning the Retransmit button should also not be hidden below the sliding cover. I have found that the sliding cover is too stiff and difficult to open. There is no illumination on the remote making it impossible to use most functions in the dark. About the only thing that can be done is to change the temperature or turn it off/on. The CPPlus is illuminated. When, for example, Auto Mode has previously been set by the IR remote, changing this from the CPPlus control can be challenging. First, one must set Cool mode and the temperature and wait for it to take effect (the panel reverts to normal idle display). Then one can set the fan speed. Before Cool mode has been set, any attempt to control the fan speed will show only the Auto option. Except when using Dehumidify mode, it almost makes sense to use the CPPlus panel to do everything. When the Aventa is On, the fan is running. Auto mode will not shut the fan off when the cooling cycle ends. Perhaps I’ll become more comfortable with this over time, but I find this control system to be unnecessarily complicated and not very user friendly. For this level of product, this is an area where much more attention should have been paid. For example, the ease of controlling the AquaGo with the rotary switch (rotate one position from Off to Comfort) is replaced by: press button to wake-up; rotate to water heater; press button; rotate to COMFORT mode; press button to set mode; press button again to confirm 120 degree water temperature. When fully equipped (2023 models), the CPPlus becomes a common point of failure for the AC, heater, and water heater. Let's hope it is very reliable. I opted for the CPPlus because it provided a redundant control, and in the hope that Truma/Oliver will eventually offer the VarioHeat as an upgrade. The CPPlus panel and IR remote do not appear to be software upgradable. Once you’ve bought into it, what you see is what you get. The CPPlus panel says that it’s iNet Ready. Truma discontinued iNet on 1/1/23, replacing it with iNet X. They show a picture of a different control panel than the CPPlus that Oliver is selling. Truma still sells CPPlus, calling it their “basic” operating panel. iNet is an external box that must be wired into the panel, and would probably have to be installed below the Oliver dinette seat. Truma offers the iNet X panel as a retrofit for the CPPlus. The iNet X panel can be updated via the iNet X app. There is no mention of an upgradable remote. AFAIK, there is no external box, only the iNet X panel and app. It is unclear whether or not the iNet X panel will physically fit into the required space in the OEII. Also note that depending on model year and possibly other factors, Oliver installed the Truma AquaGo rotary knob, Xantrex panel, and SeeLevel panels in different ordering, which may also have an effect on the ability to install an iNet X panel. Having noted these anomalies, also note that we are very pleased with the Aventa itself.

Moved this post to "Truma Aventa Retrofit - Observations"

Thank you all for your help. I will keep my Truma appointment due to the things you have said. Once I have used it for a while, I will post a review.

I have been reading your postings, and I have an appointment with Oliver to install an Aventa in two weeks. It's easy to see how the Dometic Freshjet might be priced with installation at around half the price of the Truma. At this time, for me there are reasons to go with the Truma and there are reasons to wait. What makes the Truma Aventa (at a base price of around $2,000 plus $300 for the CP Plus panel plus the fiberglass support frame) worth paying for in light of this new $1K Dometic? I can see paying extra for a device that uses the existing condensate lines and has a supported installation from Oliver (as opposed to the Houghton which has neither). What else makes the Truma worth the extra $$$? The Truma website says it has rethought air conditioning and is not like traditional air conditioners. It provides a balance between coolness and dehumidification so as to achieve an optimum comfort level. Do you feel (disregarding noise level) that your comfort has significantly improved? Having owned and operated an Aventa Eco, are there any reasons in your opinion to prefer the Truma over the Freshjet? It's easy to see that at this price point Oliver could eventually switch their default AC to the new one, and possibly offer an upgrade path as well. If this happens, it doesn't bode well for the Truma unless there is another really good reason to offer it.

@Patriot, Did you previously have an Easy Start capacitor? If so, did they remove it, or just bypass it, leaving it in place?

Do I see in this photo at the bottom left the original thermostat on the wall remaining to control the heater? We're having our Truma retrofit done on June 22. I hope the Dometic thermostat can be left in place.

Also, Truma told me they charge $29 for the set of 2 filters.

As I mentioned above, I opened a ticket and I followed up with Truma on the Aventa filters. Here's what Jason Essay had to say: Truma does recommend replacing the filters every 12 months and they do not recommend cleaning at this time. As with all companies, what they recommend today may not be the same for tomorrow. The type of filter they use can be rinsed but Truma does not currently recommend it and any issues resulting from failure to replace the filters could be denied warranty by Truma. Ovreall, Truma is wanting to make sure that the system is operating at peak performance and a new filter just like you would use at your home is the best option. This will provide the optimum filtration & air flow. ...and here is what Truma had to say: I would like to reach out and clarify the below correspondence. Truma will put the correct information regarding the care of our products and any maintenance in our published manuals. Forums are not Truma verified information so that information has not been endorsed or tested by Truma. On page 28 of the manual it states that the filters can not be cleaned. This is what care Truma stands by, and it states that the filters need to be changed every 12 months. This is the correct information not what you read in the forums or were told by anyone not representing Truma. Below is a snip of the correct information from the manual.

I have the 2021 version (same except 340 Watt Zamp solar). You indicated interest in a powerful Champion generator, which may mean you intend to operate AC without shore power. If that's the case you should consider the Platinum package with 630A batteries if you are willing to spend the money and there is still time to change your order. The Champion conflicts with your original statement about having an "as small as possible" generator. The following assumes a small generator. For winter storage I purchased an external charger that will operate off of a 15A circuit and outputs 20A to the batteries. I have a 20A outlet available at my storage location. I hook up the charger and turn on the battery heating pads. The Xantrex Pro 3000w inverter remains Off with no shore power. See the Lithionics Storage Procedure for more information. One time we arrived at a campground that had sagging voltage and could not use the Xantrex because the AC power would be shut down by the EMS during the frequent sags. Solar was insufficient at that campsite and time of year. The campground lent us a voltage regulator (I do not have a generator). My meter said that the separate 120v circuit was stable. Thus having the spare charger could have been used in that situation. It might be usable in yours too, if you are willing to operate in low consumption mode (no AC, no microwave) while charging. The Xantrex charge output is configurable, and I believe the default is set to 150A at 14.4V (or 1860 watts). This is equivalent to 18A at 120v. At that rate it should charge fully depleted batteries in a few hours (given its charging states that slow down charging at the end of the cycle). Keep in mind that this is the charge output. The input power required should be somewhat higher. If your generator won't handle that, you can configure the charge output down to as low as 5A. My solar can optimally output up to 150ah per day (full summer sun all day long). Yours should meet or exceed that. A 20A charger should be able to output 20A x 24h = 480ah per day in theory, so it should be able to fully charge your batteries in less than one day. If your generator fuel tank lasts 8 hours then you should be able to replace 160ah in that amount of time (not counting solar). See here for more info on external chargers. I finally bought the Lithionics charger directly from Lithionics for $199. At some point I will follow up on that post explaining why I chose it and how I hook it up and place it in the battery compartment. Good to have handy should the Xantrex fail.

Here's a photo of one of the radio telescopes from a distance, with people standing at the base for scale: ...and here's a view from one of the trails in the campground: The road you see is route 60. If you look closely you can see a railroad track crossing the highway and some of the dishes of the array. The dishes are moved between permanent positions using a special rail car. Here's a photo when standing at that junction:

This campground (Datil Well Recreation Area) is highly recommended. Price is excellent at $5 per night or $2.50 per night if you have a National Parks Senior Pass. It has at least three clean pit toilets, a central water supply, back-in and pull-through sites, roof-over picnic tables at each site with a concrete platform, fire pit, decent privacy, beautiful surroundings, and (believe it or not) wifi access. They don't take reservations and there are over twenty sites. There were several sites available when we got here yesterday. A couple of sites have electricity but these are usually occupied according to the campground host. Sites are not all level and are gravel driveways. Handicapped site is level and poured concrete. This is what I would call luxurious boondocking!

I guess you'd be the one with the right answer! Thanks for confirming this! I just tacked this info on to the ticket.

I have just sent a note to Truma telling them I will be installing the Aventa Eco and asking for filter purchase info. The manual gives a filter part number 40091-16800 (set of 2). There is a whole page on replacing the filters. I will also open a ticket and will let you know what I find out. They are washable on the Dometic Penguin as well. I sure hope Rivernerd is correct. The link Patriot posted has the part number. These filters appear to be pretty expensive!

From the Aventa manual: 9.2 Filter change The filters in the air distributor must be changed according to the intensity of use. It is recom- mended this be done at least every 12 months. Never operate the air conditioner without filters. This can reduce power and performance. The filters can not be cleaned. I guess the manual must be incorrect.

Has anyone with the Aventa had to replace its filters yet? How did you get replacements, and how much did they cost? Truma's website doesn't seem to have a way to order them.

My F250 is my first truck and my OEII is my first RV. I have to admit that getting used to truck bed storage took quite a bit of time. At first it seemed daunting, but now it's second nature. Even so, access is not as convenient as I would like. I can only get to some items stored in the middle of the truck bed by climbing in and moving things out of the way. Your storage solution has to consider possible water penetration as well since truck beds are not weather sealed. A decent cap or tonneau cover mostly eliminates this problem, as well as providing security for your valuables. We have been through heavy rains, both moving and standing still, and have not had any water issues with our Diamondback cover. Our cover opens at the cab and tail ends of the bed, allowing me to get most items without gymnastics. Regarding space, the F250 has a coated 6'9" bed. We can easily store all that we want to bring with us with room to spare. We use plastic storage bins to contain and organize smaller items. However, we are not full-timers. If we were, I might have gone with a cap and possibly sliding storage racks. The cap would have had opening awning style flip-up windows allowing easier access to everything in the bed. A cap just about doubles contained storage volume over a tonneau cover, and relaxes the height restriction. I realize the difficulty in selecting a TV for your application. For me the (re-)search was fun and rewarding with the knowledge I gained. I hope the same is true for you, and am sure that you will find an excellent solution for your situation.