MobileJoy

The age thing is definitely overrated... We had ours done 18 months ago. We used to wax, but after a long trip cleaning the Mojo took considerable elbow grease. We returned from a long trip in 10/24 and the Mojo hadn't been washed in over 2 months. It cleaned up easily. Black drip stains wiped away with almost no effort. Even bugs were easier to remove. It looks better than new. So I'd say it is definitely worth the money given the cleaning and waxing time saved, and the appearance of the cleaned fiberglass. Ours is garaged and we use RockTamers. Ditto!

We took the Sam Houston Tollway which is a toll road around Houston. Very nice road, but the signage was unfriendly unless you have the Harris County Toll Road Authority pass. The signage says they only accept that and if you don't have one you are a "violator". I found that if you go online you can pay the toll without any issue. Sorry, I don't remember the site link, but I do remember that a search for my trailer NC plate on the site showed the violation and let me pay. For our journey the toll was $12.

One of my uses is to condition the Lithionics batteries per instructions. They need to be fully discharged and recharged at least once every six months. Using the Dometic Penguin with soft-start that I used to have, I was able to do this, but not with the Truma. Now I have to use the fridge in DC mode, which is inconvenient when the trailer is winterized and garaged. The Truma has a dehumidify mode which maximally runs the compressor, seemingly regardless of the temperature. Other than that, we run the AC at highway rest stops when we're having lunch, and occasionally for short periods when boondocking as you do. We don't necessarily have a full charge in either case.

I'm not really sure of this... I have one without soft-start and Lithium Pro. I've found that when running AC, the batteries reach Low Battery Cut-Off long before the charge level reaches the NeverDie threshold. When I turn the batteries back on, they show much more charge than 10% (I've seen 50%). I suspect the start-up surge current can fool the batteries BMS into believing the charge has dropped to LBCO. At high charge levels, the batteries will start up the Truma. If I run only the Norcold fridge on DC, the batteries don't cut off early.

I received the following from my storage facility today: Dear Tenants, We hope everyone is doing well and enjoying the holiday season!! We are writing to let you know that we will be adding a line item to the lease regarding Lithium batteries and storage as many insurance companies are starting to NOT cover damage due to fires caused by lithium batteries. Per the previous, the following verbiage is being added to all current leases: "From hence forth, lithium batteries are strictly prohibitid from storage and or charging without express written consent from Landlord. Tenant will be liable for any damages resulting from charging any type of batteries" If you have any questions please do not hesitate to call. I haven't yet called. Has anyone received such a notification or have any info regarding this?

Oliver's winterization video shows hand-pumping (four strokes) antifreeze into the fresh water line (LEII). How does one avoid putting this antifreeze into the fresh water tank? Because of this, I ultimately flush the fresh water tank at least 3 times before filling it. Thanks for this tip. I will do this from now on.

Look at your circuit panel description in the (2024) Elite 1 manual. Note that circuit #1 of the main panel is the air conditioner. This is shown in the diagram (below) that uses the Xantrex 2000w inverter. This means the air conditioner is powered directly from the AC source. If you have the optional front AC input for a generator, connecting it to the input will feed to a transfer switch which will determine the power source (front input in this case) to route to the EMS. The EMS will verify the input power is safe and route the AC to the main circuit panel. So, in the Elite I generator case, the inverter should not be in the circuit path to the air conditioner. I think a 3000w inverter is essential to power an air conditioner.

There is Peach Country RV Park in Stonewall TX. We stayed there for the eclipse. It's $55/night. Full hookups. Good Sam, military discounts. Roughly 6 miles from Fredericksburg.

Very clever @Snackchaser! Nicely done.

If it's only your morning coffee, consider boiling water on your propane stove and using a pour-over. If you also need to grind beans, there are hand-powered grinders available. Check out https://www.hario-usa.com/collections. I have a 3000W Xantrex, solar and lithium, and I use a Hario pour-over for coffee.

The Lithionics 130Ah batteries have a built-in battery management system with Bluetooth capability, plus they provide an app that can be used to monitor the individual batteries. You can see the state of charge as a percentage (Lithionics recommends against using this number alone), or you can look at each battery's voltage. I have found this to be adequate regarding battery monitoring. I have no experience with the SmartShunt, so could someone who has installed one with the Lithionics batteries please chime in here? I am also unfamiliar with Battleborn's management system, so perhaps Geronimo John could describe his reasoning for the shunt. The Lithionics batteries can be individually shut off. Can you say why you chose to leave them on? The solar panels can also be shut off.

If you have a meter, you can check to see if the fan is getting power. You'll be touching the power plug with the meter leads, so be careful not to short out or you will blow the fuse (assuming it's not already blown). If it is getting power, then the fan probably needs replacing. We had this happen to ours early on in the toilet's life. Nature's Head responded very quickly with two fans (no charge, and I did not ask them for a spare). I replaced it and have not had a problem since. Now I have a spare, and will order another if it ever gets installed.

Last week I had Oliver replace all of the touch lights with these Obeaming lights. I had three touch light failures, and it might have been more except that we hardly use the ones over the beds. Contrary to others reports, the touch aspect never worked well. The failures were fluctuating light, total failure, and the ability to turn off without using the master switch. They used screws to attach the new lights, and not the screws that came with the lights. Once installed, we found that two of them did not work. They were on when the trailer was returned to us, and my wife could not shut them off. After investigation, it turned out that the lights that had appeared to fail, there was nothing wrong with the electronics. I removed the covers and operated the switches directly. No problem. The issue was that the cover switch button was not reaching the light switch. This was because some of the screw holes were not perpendicular to the mount surface, and so screwing in the light was deforming it (it was not flush to the fiberglass surface all the way around). I removed the screws on one of the lights and elongated the hole in the light fixture so the crooked screw's threads would not catch on it. After reassembly and remounting of the cover, the light works perfectly. I also bought spares since I expect these to be phased out (just as are most things). For easy reference: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093G795G2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Oliver's website now has a Travel Trailers / Find a Dealer page where you enter your address and a search radius.

I also have the 390Ah Lithionics and 340w solar system. This week I took Mojo out of storage. Batteries were at 100% because I keep them charged. Since it was time to do a full discharge cycle, I turned on the Norcold fridge on DC mode. The fridge was not pre-cooled, and the temperature inside Mojo was 60 degrees. Solar conditions were not good. The batteries entered LBCO in just under 1 day. In addition, I had the heater running (set at 65 degrees) so the blower was also operating, as was the Xantrex inverter. Not an apples-to-apples comparison with your situation. Usually, I use DC mode only when traveling, and I observe 5-10% drain from fully charged batteries depending on trip duration, outside temperature, and sun exposure. I haven't tried to gauge this accurately. Regarding low battery cutoff, this is done individually as each battery reaches 12.1V. When there is power draw, voltage tends to be lower, so the batteries can cut off before they get down to 10% of charge. In this case, the batteries did cut off at about 13% of charge.

I have a 30A male to 15A female connector along with a home outlet circuit tester. These testers are much cheaper than the 30A tester, and I already had one. This allows me to check proper wiring at the 30A outlet in the pedestal before plugging in the trailer. In theory the inboard EMS does these tests, but why plug in if you already know the pole is incorrectly wired? I do not use an external EMS/protector.

Posted.

Congratulations on your purchase, fellow NC'er! I'm sure you will enjoy your Oliver as much as we do ours. Reading the comments above, it looks to me like contributors are thinking that the trailer overloaded the circuit, yet you describe tripping a ground fault circuit interruptor. I have an adapter that converts from the 30A connection to a regular 20A cord. In my driveway, I used this adapter with the proper gauge extension cord many times without a problem. Then one time I came home and hooked it up, and as soon as the energy management system (EMS) cut in the power to the RV the 20A GFCI in my garage tripped. I opened a ticket reporting this ground fault, and the short story is that it was recommended to me that I have a 30A circuit installed. Before I could do that, I removed the GFCI and replaced it with a regular 20A outlet. After that the problem went away and I was able to recharge my batteries with the Xantrex. Note the EMS takes some time to turn the power on to the trailer, so this could have been responsible for the delay you experienced. I never tried changing the #28 setting on the inverter (i.e., 25A to 15A). I don't see what that could have to do with a ground fault (anyone care to explain), but it's worth a try. Ultimately I did install a 30A circuit at home and have not had a problem since. I also have trailer storage with a shared 20A circuit. With multiple bays using it, you have to limit the amount of current that you draw. I use a separate 20A charger that I connect directly to the batteries so the Xantrex is not seeing power.

Monitor your power source. You can do this easily by looking at the EMS panel. In our Oliver the panel is in the attic and its readout is in red LEDS. If the voltage drops to around 104V, the EMS will cut off shore power. If the Xantrex is drawing a lot of power (as it will by default when charging your batteries), with an unstable shore power source this could bring down the voltage to the point of EMS shutdown. This removes the power drain and allows the voltage to rise. Once it is sufficient, the EMS cuts back in and eventually powers the Xantrex. The resulting battery charging draw will bring down the voltage, etc., etc. I had this happen to our trailer at a campground that had unstable 30A shore power. Even if your batteries are fully charged, the Xantrex starts off by attempting a full charge and then rapidly changes from Bulk charging to the Absorption stage which draws much less power. You can also reconfigure the Xantrex to charge batteries at a much slower rate so its power draw is not so severe. May help, may not... We have the Lithium Pro package and Xantrex charging is set by default to 150A.

Welcome to the Oliver community! It appears that your intent is to boondocks quite a bit since you are opting for the Lithium batteries. Have you considered the composting toilet? There are many threads on this, but it is one of those things where you either love it or hate it. In our case, it's the former. It expands the time we can spend without sewage hookup allowing us to either boondock or enjoy partial hookup campgrounds. It is more work than a flush toilet, but I feel it's worth it. Airstream was our first choice. We were considering a medium size (25'-27') when I noticed a very small ad in a sidebar of one of the news sites I read for Oliver. That sent us to their website, and almost immediately changed our direction. Our camping goal was to bring home with us as we traveled the country. We have tenting experience but no previous experience with RVs, although I am a homeowner / engineer with some experience in carpentry, electrical, and plumbing so the thought of maintaining a second home didn't bother me. We made the trip to the mother ship for a factory tour. That trip sold my wife on Oliver. She loved the bright interior and decided that living in an OEII would work for her. We had at that point been inside many travel trailers. Thus far, we have done about 16K miles traveling. We have used the service ticket many times. This has been fantastic. The OEII has been pretty reliable. The downsides of it for us are the few things that require frequent maintenance such as the need to lube the chassis every 3,000 miles and to constantly inspect the window tracks to ensure proper drainage. Other things that require maintenance and inspection are done less frequently. Many of these are discussed on this forum (such as checking the torque on bolts that hold the stabilizer jacks in place, servicing wheel bearings, etc.). I can do most of these things myself, but I still do an annual visit to the mother ship for maintenance. Regarding the small size, we are comfortable with this. We can get by each other with no difficulty. Using the wet bath is no problem for us since we are well under 6' tall. We have so far stayed in it up to 9 weeks consecutively and never felt constrained even on rainy days. We did endure a heavy 10 minute hailstorm which dented our truck hood but did no damage at all to the OEII or its solar panels. I'll bet there would have been dents in our Airstream! Otherwise, I can only echo the advice given above. I believe you will love it! The level of service they offer, this Forum, their Facebook page, and the Oliver University are awesome.

Ah, so the AC from the inverter is physically connected to the ATS. Looking at the manual, the AC output of the ProWatt is a built-in GFCI outlet. So is the connection a grounded plug attached to a Romex cable at the inverter end?

Can you tell me how the PROWatt is connected to the AC outlets and accessories? Perhaps a photo? Thanks.

I generally agree with this statement. However, if you are storing your OEII, leaving the batteries installed, turning on the heating pads, and connecting an external charger to prevent depletion, then you have to leave the batteries on. In that case, a master cutoff switch would shut down all parasitic draws in the OEII. As Geronimo John pointed out in a different thread, a small propane leak and leaving the tanks turned on during storage could lead to propane pooling and possible ignition, so having the interior devices turned off is an additional safety precaution. If you store by depleting charge to 50% and turning off the batteries then there should be no need for a master switch.

Of the two inverters discussed above, I prefer the Freedom series. This one can be programmed for most battery types, and it performs automatic switching to your AC circuitry between inverted power and shore power. It is designed to be wired to your AC system where the PROWatt provides AC outlets instead. In your case, there must already be a battery charger in your trailer. Many contributors on the Forum have said that they don't like the combined inverter/charger (Xantrex Freedom) and would have preferred these to be separate to eliminate a single point of failure. You can probably find an inverter that can be wired into your AC system and that does not charge the batteries. Unless your previous owner upgraded, based on your model year you do not have LiFeBlue or Lithionics batteries. I think Oliver started offering Lithium batteries in 2020. A quick look will tell you what you have. If you have the standard lead-acid batteries, an inverter won't provide significant power for very long. You should choose the inverter based on your upgrade intentions. If you are going to install LiFePO4 batteries (many on the Forum have installed BattleBorn) then get a 3000 watt model, otherwise a 2000 watt model is sufficient. Your AC may or may not have the soft-start capacitor which may be necessary when running on inverted power. I agree. Figure out what you want and then open a ticket with your questions.

In case you don't have the PROWatt, the Freedom inverter looks like this. Note it has a control panel. This is a large box that will likely be mounted under the street side bed near the pantry.