MobileJoy

The PROWatt inverter itself looks like this:

Oliver University. It is from the 2018 Xantrex PROwatt 2000 Inverter Remote Manual.

If you don't see the Freedom panel, see if there is a PROWatt panel like this one. I got this from the 2018 model. I couldn't identify the one used for 2019 specifically.

I keep an external charger on hand for such situations and for winter storage. The one I use is a 20A charger that I purchased directly from Lithionics. It was $200 + shipping. There are less expensive ones out there as well. To purchase from them, it was necessary to contact them. There is a Product Inquiry link in the web page I provided here. There are less expensive options out there as well.

One other thing you might try is to charge the batteries slower. Setting 24 allows you to change the charger current. By default it is set to 150A. When I had poor 30A shore power at a campsite (low voltage), I changed this value to 25A, and it allowed the AC to operate for a while before the input voltage level fell to the point where the EMS rejected the input power source. Ultimately we wound up changing campsites. The setting can be adjusted in 5A increments between 5A and 150A.

Same here. I ordered a complete replacement set of the touch lights. Due to some order confusion, I got a call from Ryder. He told me they were working on replacing the touch lights and that the replacements (each of which would have its own switch) would be slightly larger than the touch lights, so a retrofit might be possible without old holes needing to be patched. He also said it was not definite but likely. I canceled my order and am waiting until I go to the mother ship for my next service in April. I learned the 2024’s will not have touch lights they will have lights that use an on off switch to operate the light per OTT service. Just curious John, where you got this info.

The Truma Aventa (13.5K BTU) definitely cools better than the Dometic Penguin (11K BTU). Having done the upgrade I have experienced both. The Truma lowers temperature much more rapidly and maintains it easily. Because of the higher BTUs, it does not run as long, leading to somewhat higher humidity. There is a Dehumidify Mode that will drastically lower the humidity (and temperature). It works very well. The Penguin ran longer, but humidity could still get pretty high under some circumstances. Both machines use Oliver's internal condensate drain plumbing. The downside of the Truma is its price. Carleton, if you're going new, I suggest ordering the Truma package. It will cost less than upgrading the AC post sale, plus you get Truma's on-demand water heater (AquaGo). Both the Dometic FreshJet and the Houghton RecPro cost considerably less, but Oliver will not install them at this time. The big reason to go with something other than the Penguin is reducing noise. It is quite loud.

I also agree with the points made above. However, in my case when the trailer was being towed home from delivery by Oliver, I checked the torque on all nuts. My wrench slipped on one of them and that was enough to deform the skin. I was unable to get the wrench back on that nut while on that trip. To get it off, a socket had to be hammered onto the nut. At the time that this happened, I didn't realize the nut had a skin and thought the nut itself was deformed. I figured it out when I got home and decided right then to replace the nuts.

Sorry, I did not mean to turn this into a discussion about batteries. I only mentioned the storage procedure I use (recommended by Lithionics) to indicate that I do have electrical switching going on in the battery compartment. Without an added battery box circulating fan, I do not see any leaking propane finding its way in there. With the tanks shut off, I do not see small propane leaks as a storage issue. I do understand your points about unique circumstances leading to lower explosive limits being reached. For us, we do not provide unsupervised access to our trailer to anyone else, we religiously make sure the tanks are off when in storage, there is no available shore power at our storage location, and I don't think we have a master DC cut-off. The Lithionics batteries can be turned off, but then they would have to be removed for cold weather. I will look into adding a master DC cutoff switch. This would kill all power to the trailer while allowing me to leave the batteries and heating pads turned on. GJ, a big thanks for this advice!

For long term storage I follow the Lithionics battery maintenance procedure for 130Ah batteries. The choice I use is to leave the batteries on, turn on the heating pads, and connect an external (Lithionics) charger to the batteries. The shore power inlet remains disconnected. All major appliances, the solar panels, and the Xantrex are turned off but there are still some parasitic draws like smoke alarms that I do not stop. Although 20 miles away from home I visit Mojo at least once a month and usually more often. As part of my departure checklist I always make sure the propane cylinders are turned off (two pairs of eyes are on this), and I recheck the valves with each visit. The Mojo is stored in an enclosed unheated unit with a garage door. Although I do not currently do this, I could turn off the master 12V switch if there is one, but this would not prevent some electrical switching in the battery compartment. The batteries remain on for maintaining charge. Given that the tanks are off, propane leaks while in storage haven't concerned me until now. To properly maintain the batteries without a charger, they have to be removed if they would otherwise be exposed to freezing temperatures. Since we do have occasional freezing periods here, I purchased the charger so I could use the heating pads, preventing the batteries from freezing. So, GJ, given the storage procedure I use, is there anything else you can think of that I could do to increase propane safety?

This might be correct. Whether it is or not, I recommend using the type of nuts that came with your OEII. In my case, bulge acorn is the type of nut that was delivered with my 2021 OEII. These are the nuts I used. They are chrome plated steel, not stainless. So far they are working well. Torque has been checked many times, and no loosening noted.

The Hario pour-over is ceramic and the beaker is glass. I also use a pre-heated ceramic coffee cup, no plastic.

Will have to try that one. Thanks for the tip.

I use a Hario V60 pour-over and a 4-cup Pyrex glass measuring cup, heating the water in the microwave or on the stove if not hooked to shore power, and using the measuring cup to pour the water. I also have a Hario Skerton Plus hand grinder (which I'm sure is not as good as a Knock Aergrind but still does a decent job producing a consistent granule size, and costs much less). All of these along with coffee, filters, thermos, trivets, etc. fit into one drawer of the cabinet. The setup makes 26oz of coffee. While I would love each cup to be absolutely fresh, I'm just too lazy to do this twice. I'm sure the much smaller Aergrind is also much easier to use than the Hario. Lately I have been bringing / buying ground coffee during our trips. I get up much earlier than Sue, so when I grind I have to do it in the wet bath with the door closed, and even then it's just too noisy. My favorite grocery store coffee is Peets Major Dickason. I also use the ZeroWater filtration system for drinking and coffee water. At home I use a Breville automatic burr grinder and a Technivorm Moccamaster drip machine with thermal beaker. Both setups make excellent coffee. The home setup is much easier to use but requires too much counter space to be practical for the OEII. --Mike

Note the 5000 lbs weight limit before requiring a WDH. Also, I believe the 500 lbs tongue weight maximum is on a label attached to the hitch. So both apply.

Here's a clip from the 2020 Ford RV And Trailer Towing Guide regarding F-150:

We have managed up to six nights camping with no gray water dump. Our first camping experience with the OEII was at David Crockett State Park which has no sewage connection on-site. We've done up to 3 consecutive days boondocking. We avoid making dirty dishes, and wash them outside using two dishpans. The most costly activity is showers, so we do facecloth wash-ups, and hair washes with wetting into a dishpan and rinsing into the sink drain, or use the campground shower if there is one. Soap water goes into the grey tank and some rinse water is disposed of outside. We also have the composting toilet, so no black tank dumps are ever needed.

Ray, just curious, did this mod seem to quiet the unit outside the trailer?

Actually I was referring to the Extang Solid Fold 2.0 cover that I had before, and possibly others.

Ditto. There are other threads on tonneau covers. Here's one example. I restricted the cover to one I could unlock and open from the outside. My F250 tailgate does not have a blade key slot, only an electric lock. If that fails while camping and the tailgate has to be open to unlock the tonneau, you could be locked out of your bed.

Do you want to bring bicycles? If so, you may want to consider getting the bumper hitch option.

In your list I saw a half ton pickup but no Andersen hitch. This TV/RV combination requires weight distribution. From what I have read, Andersen is really your only option because of the aluminum chassis. Best to let Oliver install it. Perhaps you already thought of this and left it out of your description. Be safe! You didn't mention your intended camping style. Will you always (or almost always) be at a campground with hookups? If you intend to boondocks, you should consider one of the higher capacity battery solutions, either the 4 6-volt AGMs or a lithium option. You should add solar charging. If your intent is to boondock more than 2 consecutive days you should also consider the composting toilet. The standard power and toilet options are fine if you will always camp with full hookups. I don't have the compressor fridge. I know it consumes less power (in DC mode) than the Norcold 3-way. Keep in mind how long you might want to operate your fridge without hookups. This might also affect your choice of power option. The push button drain valve and the electronic lock are both conveniences. Neither is necessary. A manual valve is used instead. In either case, you have to open and close the valve manually when appropriate. I think the electronic lock also comes with a remote so you don't need a key or to enter the code each time. The Domestic Penguin is VERY loud. If you're going to camp in hot weather, you should consider the Truma Aventa option, or plan to replace it yourself with a Houghton Recpro or Dometic FreshJet. There are a number of postings on all three options. Get a tongue lock to prevent anyone from hooking up and towing it away. There are a number of options. I use The Collar and an A-Bus disc lock. This can be left in place while hooked up.

In my 2021 OEII, there is a red switch like the one pictured above, but it is located in the upper street side cabinet near the pantry and right near the Zamp solar controller. That switch breaks the power connection between the solar panels and the controller. The switch in your photo (being so close to the Blue Sky box) might do the same. The switch is useful when disconnecting battery cables so they are not carrying charge while disconnected.

Sorry, I just noticed that you don't own an Oliver. Thus my previous advice may not be applicable as I have no idea of how your trailer is wired.

Please post your trailer information, year and model. Also add your electrical systems info (inverter model, batteries, etc.). When on shore power, does your refrigerator work when AC power is selected? The fridge circuit is direct to a breaker (no GFCI), so if it does maybe your GFCI has failed.