Wayfinder

Does anyone see a real reason why I might change from braided cables to chains for the hitch area?

Sorry I did not close this thread out. I finally added the Andersen to the trailer. The RAM 1500 did have a liability statement in the manual for 5,000 lbs or more. It also took care of the porpoising that was occurring on rougher back roads and bridges. Well, not really bad bridges, but it's better. It was very easy to install. I did get the suggested chain extensions. I used 24 links, not 23 (just in case I needed it). Must have a good torque wrench and some muscles, and/or a friend. Thanks all.

I know where there's another used Ollie, 2017. It's in much worse shape then mine. They still have it way over-priced for the condition. I'm sure it might also be missing some plugs, or could be soon. LOL Just kidding. But it was a quick though. Not paying $14 for a piece of rubber plug that is 32mm by 2.x mm. Nope The duct tape can stay for that. https://elkrv.com/products/window-plug-weep-hole-for-8600-8700-8800-series-black

Thanks JD. I found with the rims, plastic scrappers really helped to loosen up the big chunks. A must-have for the tool bag of a fiber glass toy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091TPHSTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's like I'm at dry-dock and I'm prepping for another long voyage, which, I guess is true. Chris

I was able to adjust the latch "shaft?" to allow the door to be much more snug. That might do it. I'm afraid over time however, the damage has been done to the tray. Hopefully it has not been weakened due to rust. I washed the trailer by and for the first time today, and when inspecting the battery hatch/door, the entire battery cabinet had a thin layer of water. It was touch to reach with 4 large batteries in the way, but I was able to dry out the cabinet and adjust the door. I'll keep an eye on it from now on. I also cleaned and greased the battery tray rails, it was looking pretty "aged" too. Thanks yet again for all the great advice and tips. I'm trying to get ready for full-time RV'ing in North Carolina, Georgia, Florida. Chris

I too added a strip above the upper fridge vent. Thanks!

What's the best and safest way to tackle this road tar? It too came with the Oliver. Fun times ahead. I cleaned most off the rims with light acetone, but not so sure about the fiberglass. Thanks, Chris

Also, I'm missing a battery strap. I'm poked around Amazon, but was unsure of what might work. Any ideas? I might go to an automotive store and check, but they will likely be too short for two batteries.

JD, This is the Brand of shunt I have. The app is poorly rated. It's a BMPRO BatteryCheck. Very basic information. https://teambmpro.com/wp-content/uploads/140000_M-BatteryCheck.pdf

A while back I installed the rain gutters around the windows. Great suggestion! However, I'm getting rain water into the battery box area; more than I would like to see. It's starting to corrode the tray parts. How bad would it look if I put a strip of gutter over the battery box hatch, and/or over the hatch vent holes? The pin-striping is in the way of where I would like to place a strip. Has anyone come up with a better solution, or needed to? Thanks, Chris

I will have to think about that. I'm still honing my skills with electricity. Rather do it with an experienced person. Maybe if I upgrade batteries and other components. Great upgrade thread JD.

While conducting preventative maintenance, I found a couple potential unseen issues with the batteries. First, there was a loose connection on the primary negative terminal where wires leave the batteries into the trailer. Could have added resistance. Next, I was troubling as to why I could not connect to my Bluetooth battery monitor from Australia (POS) - came with the used trailer. Come to find out there was unseen-corrosion inside the cable connectors on the battery monitor device itself as you see in this photo. I'm hoping to change out with a victron Bluetooth SmartShunt. Seems like they are difficult to find on Amazon this week. "Victron Smartshunt 1000amp/50mv Bluetooth Smart Battery Shunt" https://www.hodgesmarine.com/vicshu050210050-victron-smartshunt-1000amp50mv-bluetooth-smart.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwy7CKBhBMEiwA0Eb7amH5p-goWq5Zt4LI753IetrA3bdX3UP2nU4Y37hxTqzVQAvbBbS3yBoCVegQAvD_BwE When I'm on the PC next, I will search the forums to see who has experience with these Victrons. I am trying to figure out where I'm going to put this and figure out where this yellow wire goes from the current setup. Does anyone know where the yellow wire might go? This is a 2016 LE-II, not sure if the wire is stock or not. Seems like it is.

Oh, and another electrical wire fell off the pump itself on this last trip. Had to snug up the "bite" on the connector. Easy fix.

If I keep too many spare parts it could cost me $60K+, for a RAM 2500. I only have a 1500 now and I'm full-timing solo these days, so can't add too much more weight. LOL A spare water pump boondocking seems like a must.

Good grief Charlie Brown, this part is more than 50% the cost of a new pump with all new parts. I think I'll get the new part AND a new pump. Winter is coming and I'm full-timing in it for now. I think someone said it might be a good idea to have an extra on-hand anyways. Why not?!

Well, I found the source of of the water pump noise. I think it's this part: https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-94-800-02-Water-Drive-Assembly/dp/B00UYWVB0C/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=shurflo+4008+parts&qid=1632405066&sr=8-18

While at an RV park, or any full hookups, what do prefer to use, electric or gas hot water? I like reaching for the gas button in the morning and the water is ready in 10 or 15 minutes. I immediately turn it off after showering. What do you think is easier on the HW tank, electric or gas?

Cool. That was my pic from last week's question. I was wondering what that box did. Now I need to check it and that wire. Love you guys. You're the best. Chris

@mossemi. Your guess is my description. I did not stay boondocking too long to. I'm back on city water at the moment. When I get the energy up to test everything again I'll see if the knocking goes away and if the pump continues to runs for a moment, periodically, without any demand for water.

Ok. I did what JD suggested. Although I did not get much in the left side white line. The other side appeared to have water in it when loosening up the fitting. If I can upload this video you'll see it's making a hell of a racket but I am getting water through the system now. Suggestions for the very loud pumping. The pump itself is very quiet until the pressure is built up. The entire water system is just banging and knocking like crazy. If I wait long enough and run water long enough I assume that goes away? Hopefully I've set the permissions correctly on this video. To hear the noise. It's even louder up front in bathroom. Pump also turns on and off every few minutes just for a split second. Could that indicate a leak in the system where pressure is being released? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ppIlm1Bx_7EqSiWVP_uRH0zHOGFhJf4w/view?usp=drivesdk

Both houses going to the pump are empty and the bowl is empty too.

I cannot be sure myself. This is the first time I'm attempting to pump from fresh tank. This pic is from the factory, I'm sure.

My freshwater tank is full, water pump is on, but I'm not getting any water coming through the system. Do you see anything wrong with the valve configuration for the 2016 Elite 2? I have been able to pump in the winterization configuration when I cleaned out everything with vinegar water.

Yeah, I finally got on the roof to see what was what. I'll order the new part today. For now, a temporary prop will do. I'm full-timing for now, so I need the fan going. Thank you everyone for the details.

While adjusting the fan in the middle of the night a metal part broke off in the fan and flung pieces around. Now the fan will not shut off unless I pull the fuse. Has anyone seen this part break before? It is metal. I'm sure it's not replaceable after 5 years. Thoughts? Maybe I can contact MaxFan and see if they have a spare part.