Wayfinder

Great ideas. Also, while Wayfinder is in my so-called dry-dock this month for minor repairs and clean-up, I've been pushing air through the hull with a fan on the passenger-side bed area hatch, and keeping both dinette hatches open for exhaust, all windows are open. This is in hopes of reducing some of the inner hull odors. The good thing is it's not musty, just odors of older plastics, glues, and fiberglass, etc. It's dry as a whistle otherwise. I may have some fiber board around my GA house. I certainly have plenty of extra Reflectix and 1/8 inch thin plywood. It's free and would make for a nice light-weight platform. Chris

Has anyone come up with a safe and reasonable solution to use the front-most area under the dinette site, next to bathroom? I'm nervous to put anything in there due to the one inlet line going into the black tank. Also, due to the mild odor in the hull, (not nasty, just different), all I can think of is storing soft, seasonal clothes in two heavy duty outdoor garbage bags, or a vacuum sealed bag. I just don't want anything moving around in there, and should be very soft. I was considering doing a mod of a nice pull-out box or bin of sorts. Maybe a soft cooler, like the one under the table in this picture. Again, I would want to keep that sealed in a heavy plastic bag too. Ideas and threads are welcome. Thanks, Chris

Thanks Bill, that was going to be one of my next questions. Mud flaps. Awesome.

@John E Davies That 3M cleaner is the best. It did not take much elbow grease, time, nor cleaner to complete the rear area, rims, and fenders. I doubt I even used 1/4 of the can. I spends less than an hour. Amazing stuff, but must use it outside, in a breeze, with a fan. LOL The marks on the clean pics are pits from road debris. I can see black Rhino-liner in the future for the lower portion of the hull. Q: Has anyone protected the lower hull with Rhino-Liner like material? Would like to see pics of that. #110 is coming back to life. I'm thinking of these next few weeks as Wayfinder is in dry-dock for repairs and clean up, which basically, it is. Great weather here in GA this week. Here are some before and after shots. Thanks a bunch, again! The starboard side not nearly as bad.

I just put on this material on the entry way lights, on the LE-II 2016. Real simple. The material is quite thick and rubbery with one sticky side. The directions said it was forgiving to move around a few times, and not to touch sticky side, duh. I put it on at night, not a great idea, BLINDING. But, the bugs that were there when I started, seemed not so interested in the lights after application of material. At least the GA bugs. I chose the Amber (orange) color. It is NOT too orange with the light on. It's a subtle change (not a drastic orange glow at all). Quite nice. I "might" have had enough to do all four thin lights on the LE-II, but I would have had to cut VERY precisely. There is not a lot of material. I only wanted to cover the entry lights anyway. https://www.sailorsams.com/ITC-RV-LED-Porch-Light_p_14885.html Lamin-x One 4 inch x 8 inch Universal Film Cover (Color : Amber)

Well, the new water pump arrived before the new part for the old pump. The pump works like a champ. It took a while to get the air out of the lines, but finally succeeded. More basic maintenance to come in preparation for Winter camping, in NC. Water pump model: SHURflo 12v 3.0 GPM Revolution RV Water Pump # 4008-101-A65 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TKMK4O?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Ok fellas, I've seen mention of folks ordering the 33" and the 35" Dexter kits. Which is it for the 2016 LE-II? ? My hubs appear to be 33.5" apart, both sides. K71-652-00 (33"/6000 libs) - https://www.amazon.com/Dexter-K71-652-00-Complete-Suspension-Kit/dp/B01HOAGBSI <OR> K71-653-00 (35"/8000 lbs) - https://www.amazon.com/Dexter-K71-653-00-Complete-Suspension-Kit/dp/B01HOAGBHO Thanks, Chris

All great points Mossey. Thanks. I'll look further into the 500 Amp shunt, with the bluetooth add-on.

Hey Mossey, Yup, I felt around everywhere. Looks like a simple suspension system. Drat. I can take some pics if needed. Or, maybe I should start a new thread. For the poor folk with low-end suspensions. LOL

I had ordered a grease gun and grease, but did not verify that I even had grease gun points. I was able to cancel order in time, mostly. I do not have any easy to grease points on the 2016 axles. How do those points get greased? Manually take apart? Nope, I cannot do that. I do not have the tools. Maybe a break/tire shop, I guess. Thanks, Chris

Does anyone see a real reason why I might change from braided cables to chains for the hitch area?

Sorry I did not close this thread out. I finally added the Andersen to the trailer. The RAM 1500 did have a liability statement in the manual for 5,000 lbs or more. It also took care of the porpoising that was occurring on rougher back roads and bridges. Well, not really bad bridges, but it's better. It was very easy to install. I did get the suggested chain extensions. I used 24 links, not 23 (just in case I needed it). Must have a good torque wrench and some muscles, and/or a friend. Thanks all.

I know where there's another used Ollie, 2017. It's in much worse shape then mine. They still have it way over-priced for the condition. I'm sure it might also be missing some plugs, or could be soon. LOL Just kidding. But it was a quick though. Not paying $14 for a piece of rubber plug that is 32mm by 2.x mm. Nope The duct tape can stay for that. https://elkrv.com/products/window-plug-weep-hole-for-8600-8700-8800-series-black

Thanks JD. I found with the rims, plastic scrappers really helped to loosen up the big chunks. A must-have for the tool bag of a fiber glass toy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091TPHSTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's like I'm at dry-dock and I'm prepping for another long voyage, which, I guess is true. Chris

I was able to adjust the latch "shaft?" to allow the door to be much more snug. That might do it. I'm afraid over time however, the damage has been done to the tray. Hopefully it has not been weakened due to rust. I washed the trailer by and for the first time today, and when inspecting the battery hatch/door, the entire battery cabinet had a thin layer of water. It was touch to reach with 4 large batteries in the way, but I was able to dry out the cabinet and adjust the door. I'll keep an eye on it from now on. I also cleaned and greased the battery tray rails, it was looking pretty "aged" too. Thanks yet again for all the great advice and tips. I'm trying to get ready for full-time RV'ing in North Carolina, Georgia, Florida. Chris

I too added a strip above the upper fridge vent. Thanks!

What's the best and safest way to tackle this road tar? It too came with the Oliver. Fun times ahead. I cleaned most off the rims with light acetone, but not so sure about the fiberglass. Thanks, Chris

Also, I'm missing a battery strap. I'm poked around Amazon, but was unsure of what might work. Any ideas? I might go to an automotive store and check, but they will likely be too short for two batteries.

JD, This is the Brand of shunt I have. The app is poorly rated. It's a BMPRO BatteryCheck. Very basic information. https://teambmpro.com/wp-content/uploads/140000_M-BatteryCheck.pdf

A while back I installed the rain gutters around the windows. Great suggestion! However, I'm getting rain water into the battery box area; more than I would like to see. It's starting to corrode the tray parts. How bad would it look if I put a strip of gutter over the battery box hatch, and/or over the hatch vent holes? The pin-striping is in the way of where I would like to place a strip. Has anyone come up with a better solution, or needed to? Thanks, Chris

I will have to think about that. I'm still honing my skills with electricity. Rather do it with an experienced person. Maybe if I upgrade batteries and other components. Great upgrade thread JD.

While conducting preventative maintenance, I found a couple potential unseen issues with the batteries. First, there was a loose connection on the primary negative terminal where wires leave the batteries into the trailer. Could have added resistance. Next, I was troubling as to why I could not connect to my Bluetooth battery monitor from Australia (POS) - came with the used trailer. Come to find out there was unseen-corrosion inside the cable connectors on the battery monitor device itself as you see in this photo. I'm hoping to change out with a victron Bluetooth SmartShunt. Seems like they are difficult to find on Amazon this week. "Victron Smartshunt 1000amp/50mv Bluetooth Smart Battery Shunt" https://www.hodgesmarine.com/vicshu050210050-victron-smartshunt-1000amp50mv-bluetooth-smart.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwy7CKBhBMEiwA0Eb7amH5p-goWq5Zt4LI753IetrA3bdX3UP2nU4Y37hxTqzVQAvbBbS3yBoCVegQAvD_BwE When I'm on the PC next, I will search the forums to see who has experience with these Victrons. I am trying to figure out where I'm going to put this and figure out where this yellow wire goes from the current setup. Does anyone know where the yellow wire might go? This is a 2016 LE-II, not sure if the wire is stock or not. Seems like it is.

Oh, and another electrical wire fell off the pump itself on this last trip. Had to snug up the "bite" on the connector. Easy fix.

If I keep too many spare parts it could cost me $60K+, for a RAM 2500. I only have a 1500 now and I'm full-timing solo these days, so can't add too much more weight. LOL A spare water pump boondocking seems like a must.

Good grief Charlie Brown, this part is more than 50% the cost of a new pump with all new parts. I think I'll get the new part AND a new pump. Winter is coming and I'm full-timing in it for now. I think someone said it might be a good idea to have an extra on-hand anyways. Why not?!