Wayfinder

If all goes well, I will be at G28. Cheers, Chris

Beer fridge it will go! LOL

Good tip. It sounds like you have had to reseal more items than I've heard of before. I was wondering about that stickiness, or how it pulls apart with more "stringiness", is that a word? I might try to put it in the refrigerator before putting it on the door frame, than, lit it warm up in the Georgia spring air before pressing it onto the hull. Sounds legit to me. Thanks @AndrewK

Oh, don't misunderstand me, most all the smells have remained "gone" since I did that initial blow-out nearly two years ago. I only mentioned it because I too found it strange that a 5 year old TT (then to me) still had some "funky" smells. No, not really glue or resins, or poo or pee, just, well, something, and not horrible, just a bit noticeable. The smells are mostly all gone since I did that initial air-out. Just wanted to bring it up as a possible solution and to state how surprised I have been that they remained gone since. Now that I think of of it, it might be good for people with bad allergies, although, they may not elect to go camping in the first place. LOL Cheers, Chris

I thought I had posted something about airing out the hull using a fan, but that was nearly two years ago and I can't find the thread, if there is one at all. I wanted to update my findings on hull 110 (2016), which I purchased used in 2021. I had always noticed a "funny" smell from the trailer, especially from within the hull area. Not a horrible wet smell, but maybe more of a mechanical, glue-like smell. Well, even today the trailer still smells MUCH better, even after sitting in the sun all last summer. The inner hull is still not nearly as bad as it was when I purchased the trailer. I think Oliver, or more efficiently, the new owners, should air out their hulls a few weeks after they get them. Some owners get their new trailers so fast that I bet glue is still curing upon pick-up. This is what I do. A 24" fan blowing into the passenger side bed hatch with the dinette hatch open, tyically the one closest to the bathroom (not pictured), along with all windows open and roof fans running at least on low. Try it, see if it improves the hull smell, even on older Olivers. Good luck. I ran mine for hours on a nice sunny day the first time. I'm only showing the electrical hatch open, as that's where I was working replacing the CO detector today. 😉

This little right-angle drill bit holder did okay. A good space savor for any project. Lippart used screen door screws that were VERY, VERY TIGHT to get into the holes of the hinges.

Well, I put the new CO detector in, and for being the much less expensive color, it totally matches my #110 setup; maybe even better than the white one.

I just called Oliver. They just use the grey Butyl Tape on the walk-in doors, so I'm good. They did say I'll need to go thru Lippart for a new door seal. I think that's another spot that can be a problem, although for now I have augmented it with another small, "double-tubed", seal on the hinge side of the inner frame. It works so well I don't see any more light shining through now. It's only a temporary stop-gap to get me through to the Rally in May, unless I get the seal before then. I'm hoping nothing in life comes up so I can meet more Ollie owners.

I found one YouTube video where a Lippart door was replaced. Doesn't look difficult at all. I do however want to make sure I have the best Butyl Tape possible. Any suggestions or are they basically the same. I might make it into a YouTube video, so you all can laugh at me.... I mean give me constructive suggestions. LOL I have this stuff, but not supper impressed, yet. Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape

Congratz, looking great. Have fun.

@mossemiI was also considering removing that PITA gasket and put my extra gutter guard just over the door. I agree, that gasket is horrible and at least needs an area in the middle to release water and junk. Now you have me thinking.

Also, here is where water is coming in from now. Between frame and hull. Yay. Only way to door right, is to pull the door. Looking on YouTube now to see if anyone has a similar issue on a fiberglass hull. If not, might be a YouTube video I should do myself. Maybe I can get some advice from somebody at Oliver.

This might help get in those tight spots on the doors.

I put this on the wrong thread, but here it is again. I found out tonight that the door is leaking between the door frame and the hull. The entire door and frame needs to be pulled and resealed. Not looking forward to it. Also need to order the big seal/gasket under the awning from Oliver. Again, a pain and will take two people to remove the awning

Unfortunately I found out tonight that it's leaking between the door frame and the hull. The entire door and frame needs to be pulled and resealed. Not looking forward to it. Also need to order the big seal/gasket under the awning from Oliver. Again, a pain and will take two people to remove the awning.

Great info and web site GG. Thanks!

The main walk-in door is, and likely has been, my big leaky issue this hold time, not the window on the door. The window is good now for sure since I re-sealed it. Now to tackle the real issue. Here's some picks of the leaks. I had someone spray water outside while I looked inside, without the screen door attached (pain to remove). Screen Door Removal The screen door was kind of a pain to get off. Those Roberson square head screws were in TIGHT and with a tough angle at which to get to them, with the main door in the way a bit. I need to get new screws now since two of the heads were a bit damaged getting them out of the screen door mount. Not sure if Phillips screws would do any better and not sure I could find machine torque screws in that form-factor & length. Has anyone changed those screws out for something better? Door seal replacement Has anyone found a good replacement for the door seal (strip)? The way the current strip is placed on the door, at least as it sits on the side of the hinges, it's a horrible placement, I think. It gets "pushed" out of the way unlike all other sides of the door. Maybe I can simply augment that seal with one that's on the core of the door itself and not just on the outer overlap of the door. Not sure that's too clear. Maybe these picks will help? But, that will certainly affect how the door closest. It would have to be a very thin seal for sure. Basically from top to bottom on the hinge side the door leaks. I've head to keep the canopy extended more than I'd like to so I'm not cleaning up puddles of water after rainstorms. I'm trying to get & keep #110 in perfect order, especially before the rally in May. 🙂

Well the window is tight as a drum, but the door seal by the hinges on the other hand, OMG, might as well be a strainer. New separate posting coming for that.

My Atwood 36681 RV CM/PL detector has finally failed (faulted) in #110. Looks like I can get the same model from a couple places, from $70 to $120 (eTrailer). I trust eTrailer, not sure about Panther RV Products. https://pantherrvproducts.com/36681/ Also from https://www.rvpartscountry.com/rv-atwood-dual-lp-co-alarm.html Does anyone have another reputable place to find a white replacement. Black is much cheaper (stupid). I love the on/off switch idea @John E Davies, thanks! Thanks, Chris

My trailer came already tinted, maybe because it was the 2016 demo unit, but if it breaks in the future, I will try it. Thanks.

Well, a long over due repair is finally complete. For over a year now my door had leaked a bit if the rain hit that side of the camper. Whoever makes those doors for Oliver really does NOT use much sealant on the window and plastic window frames (inner & outer). I did "okay". I used Butyl tape that I had on hand. It made me feel like I was playing with Silly Putty again. I used it liberally so I hope that will be the end of the leak for a while. The clean-up of the outside putty took a minute or three do do, but not bad. It was a beautiful day out. Here's also a short video of pealing off the old factory sealant. Window-Sealant-Satisfaction-HB.mp4

I completed my rear jack inspection and re-greasing last week, finally. Look like it was the first time since the jacks were installed at Oliver. Unlike @John E Davies my gearbox has no drive area, however, it was certainly time for new grease, no question. I gears looked brand new with no signs of heat strain (no brown areas). I think it was @John E Davies or @SeaDawgwho mentioned to loosen the three Allan nuts under the gearbox in order to spin the passenger-side gearbox in order to get it around the edge of the fiberglass edge. It worked like a charm. Thanks! I cleaned out as much old lithium grease and replaced it with fresh Mobilith SHC PM 460 White Lithium Complex Multipurpose Grease. I even setup my phone to video record the sound and to check for any movement of the jacks under load. I did not notice any movement, but I will double check the jack bolts that go through the frame. Others have reported them as loose as one full turn. I cleaned the jack legs too and inspected for any damage. They both looked with only road grime on them. I coated with a dry lube and worked them up and down a couple times. I forgot to take a pick of my grease job. But, looked just like John's grease job, only white instead of red. LOL Also updated my maintenance log. Don't forget to do that.

Here's an update to the fuses. I finally received the new fuses. They must have taken the low-boat from Ebay, so the receipt indicates. But what is surprising is how heavy the fuses are. They really have some weight to them. Details: 5-pack of Littlefuse MDL-30, 30A 32V Time Delay (Slow Blow), as noted on the receipt. A total of $11.10 (including shipping - $4.29) See the 10% off code in my pic. It may help a bit. Thanks everyone for the help. I also finally received my Mobilith SHC PM 460 White Lithium Complex Multipurpose Grease for the rear jacks, time to re-grease those gears. The 2016 grease is quite dry as noted in other threads.

@John E Davies It's not quite been two years since you used that awesome grease in the electric jacks, but it "might be" of interest to some what the grease is now looking like, at least in one of the rear jacks, which are easier to inspect. I would imaging, even with a good bit of use, that the grease looks fine and has remained on the teeth of the gears/cogs, unlike the white grease that came from the jack manufacturer.

Thanks Steve and Deb for the link to a product which, surprisingly, details out what the fuse is "typically" used for. Also Geronimo John's links to better educate Ollie Owners, who are not super heroes with electrical yet. It's great that the Blue Sea 30A slow-blow fuse really does a great job describing what these fuses are. It's the first fuse description I've seen that does that well. Agreed? About this item (Blue Sea Systems MDL Fuses) 2 slow blow glass fuses per retail package For use with Blue Sea Systems' ST Glass Fuse Blocks and AGC or MDL fuse holders AGC and MDL fuses are typically used in DC systems up to 32V DC Visible indication of blown condition Slow blow glass fuse for pumps and other motors For use with Blue Sea Systems' ST Glass Fuse Blocks and AGC or MDL fuse holders AGC and MDL fuses are typically used in DC systems up to 32V DC Five per retail package 1,000A Interrupt Capacity