Wayfinder

Sorry, I've been off the grid for a while. Please check with Oliver about "replacing the door". I think it's a custom order just for the Oliver. When I removed my door, the sticker on the outer frame, from Lippart, even had Oliver's name within the part information, if I recall correctly. I could be wrong, but best be safe and verify. My door frame was super easy to remove, okay fine, WAY TOO EASY. Most of the screw holes were too large for the screws. I think mostly held on with puddly. LOL. I added a few extra self-tapping screws just to be sure.

Lots of opinions. I'm an extra-simple man. Carry extras at all times! I have 2 to 4 extra connectors just for the Andersen links. Two of the four are heavier duty. But, since I've been carrying all that extra stuff for three years, have I had an issue? Nope! Go figure. But I inspect ALL connection points every time I get out for a break. I have 13-points of interest to put my hands on, just for the hitch area. Andersen, Oliver, and any traitor maintenance company is simply going to out-source that part, and hope they're buying a high-end product. Damned if we can tell which Chinese part is good at the big-box-stores here in America. All we can do is bight it, lick it, and try to bend it with our barehands. "Yup, looks good." Many don't even have a strength indicator on them. Very annoying.

Thanks JD! That makes good sense to me now. I do have at least two negs going to the batteries directly. And everything you said about the 6 AWG yellow wire is correct. I tried to note that in the overlayed pic. I'll see what I can do about moving those wires.

Hey all, if I understand @GraniteStaters initial mistake, by-passing the DC side of the negative connections, I think I did what he did. I only hooked up the AC (inverter) side to be monitored by the Inverter. I think I need another busbar like he installed (purple box in my pic). I've tried to figure out the solution from his pics, but I want to be clear about it. Here's what I have so far. Here's a clean pic without overlayed graphics and one with overlay. Not sure how clear this is to understand. The Victron Smartshunt is working fine, except I do not see any DC loads on monitor. I now understand why, just want to clarify the solution. Any detailed diagrams are welcome. Thanks!

Not entirely related to the question, but I too, for the second time since 2021, emailed Ryan at Sun Forge to verify settings on my new LIFELINE 6 volt GPL-4CT AGMs (x4). Ryan not only sent me his suggestions in one day (over the weekend), but also suggested, from his (and their) many years of experience, to set these up for equalization. So I did. He said many or enable the equalization on these particular AGMs are getting 10-12 years of life out of the batteries. He has one customer who equalizes daily, only for a short time (.05H/100AH) who is now on year 13. Wow. The #4 DIP switch is a bit challenging to get to, but I managed to flip it to "ON". I don't expect to have this same trailer that long, and if I do, I will "likely", and eventually move up to Lithium. But, for now, my lifestyle in the camper does not require that much power, but it might some day. OTT had changed out my batteries when I was there in July for other service. My crappy ones died and did not want to rush into Lithiums by myself. Cudos to Ryan!!!

Not yet for the new fan but have a quick work around for the existing fan when needed.

For now, I have a problem my Domestic. It will not go to level 5 on the eyebrow board. I can only set it to #4. It seems like the lights sort of flicker when trying #5. The check like does not go on, but there's a quick flicker. Has anyone seen this behavior? I've not found much on the Internet about that. So #4 setting really cannot keep temperatures down to proper level if the inside of the camper gets warm. The fridge will hover around 45 to 48 degrees when camper is warm but if camper is cool, say 77 degrees, then fridge will maintain 35 and freezer around 7 degrees. This behavior is on all three power settings, propane, AC, and DC. Could this be a board issue?

Yes, that's how I tested the switch.

I have not installed the Beach Lane Twin fans yet, but I did just verify they work and noted how much they use per manual setting, at least indoors with ambient temps around 75 degrees. There are impressively quiet, even at 100%. And they move some serious air. Make a nice decorative wooden enclosure and they'd be better than any desktop fan you could buy. Would keep you cool at night for sure! Hmmmm! Speed - Watts Used 50% - 0.6w 60% - 1.2w 70% - 2.05w 80% - 3.2w 90% - 4.6w 100% - 6.6w

Yeah, I checked the switch and the wire going to the switch. Switch seems to work fine. No power from the inbound wire. I should check again to ensure I checked correctly. Sounds like someone else had the same issue. This full time job of mine has got to go away. It's cutting I to my fun time.

Sorry @mossemi, I was "not getting it". Now @jd1923 has poked me with a fork. Since OTT didn't mention any other options for axle sizes, I assumed it was a done deal and could not get upgraded 5200 axles. There's still a lot I'm taken in with all these great threads of golden nuggets. Thanks again @rideandfly for calling Dexter! I've posted in the other thread about axles and frame size. If someone now says I've pulled my head out of my butt, then I'll inquire again with OTT about the custom order.

@jd1923 has shown me the trees beyond the forest. I was not "getting it". Now I think I do. So maybe OTT can special order the size of axles for my trailer and install them getting all the upgrades I want at once. Hmmm. I will get my serial numbers off my axles soonest.

Yup, thanks! @GraniteStaters. Anything to do with the drums, bearings, seals, races, etc I have on the list. Especially if I go with a full drum "kit", ready to go. Boy, if shipped to the house, this will be a heavy delivery. Likely the heaviest ever. LOL Updating my list above.

I did that already. OTT installed my EZ-Flex parts at the factory, after they realized they could not install the new axles for me. 😞 I had the parts still in the box, so that was a great help.

@jd1923 just to confirm what you said, "self adjusting" brakes. Do you mean auto-adjust or manually adjustable brakes? I know you upgraded yours, just seeing how happy you are with yours now. Thanks, Chris

Also, I'm a very light traveler, and for now, solo. So weight is not an issue yet. The springs are my big concern before I retire and do a "real" road trip. I'm not sure if there are different 5200 lb axles from what OTT was attempting to put on my trailer. I can always find out from them I guess.

Oh, I guess you missed the news from Oliver. They had completely removed my axles when they realized the new ones would not fit. The hangers are not in the same position as other trailers. There is no "play" with the new axles, Jason's words. They spent most of the day with engineers trying to make them work. This is why I still have all my old parts. They did however, install my EZ-Flex system, which I had provided the parts. It's a bummer, but oh well. Moving forward.

I wanted to get more hands-on with the specific parts that will get installed onto my #110 (2016) trailer. This should make me better at supporting the older trailers too. I will also add any parts I use to my Maintenance Log and keep with the Ollie's manuals for future owners, if any. Using JD's older thread for breaks and drums, I see the prices have gone up nearly $30 since 2021, just for the drum kit. 😜 I'd like to try to keep this thread focused on only replacing the OEM parts with either OEM parts or good alternatives, without going off the rails with fancy, expensive "possible" upgrade ideas. I have enough squirrels in my life. 😉 Also thanks to @mossemi for giving me an idea for a local shop from which to order, I might check them out too, but first to get smarter on what I will need. For you experienced owners and do-it-yourselfers, see if I'm mucking up anything please, if you have time to check your own notes. The trailerparts.com site provided by JD in 2021 still lists the part 655D with everything needed for the Brake Drum replacement. (Convenient) Dexter 10" x 2 1/4" Brake Drum - 6 on 5 1/2" with 1 3/8" x 1 1/16" Bearings (68149 x L44649) - 1/2" Studs - $99.24 NOTE: I know all about the better Timken bearings and races from other threads. They're on my radar if needed (it's a dead horse). I'm thinking of going with manually adjustable brake assemblies on my original Dexter Nev-R-Adjust axles. Dexter 10" x 2.25" Electric Trailer Brake Kit - Left & Right Hand Assemblies - 3,500 lbs. Axle Capacity - $136.71 <OR> etrailer Electric Trailer Brakes - 10" - Left/Right Hand Assemblies Manual Adjust - 3,500 lbs - $106.57 ** I don't think there is any issue going to manual brakes, is there? I don't mind adjusting myself. Thoughts? Otherwise, I will go with: Dexter Nev-R-Adjust 10" x 2.25" Electric Brake Kit - Left & Right Hand Assemblies - 3,500 lbs. Axle Capacity - $195.45 ($192 at eTrailer) And of course the all-mighty Alcan Springs I already have plenty of the Red Line CV-2 synthetic grease along with all the tools. I've repacked the bearing at least once. Shock Absorbers: Monroe 555001 (any other better options?) Grease Seals: National Oil Seals Part #473336 Purchased at O'Reilly Auto Parts (Also get at eTrailer, Item # RG06-050) (just where I found parts in 2021) Timken Parts if needed: 4 x L44649 Timken SET4 - Outer Bearings (1 1/16" ID) 4 x L68149 Timken SET17 - Inner Bearings (1 3/8" ID) 4 x L44610 Timken Outer Races 4 x L68111 Timken Inner Races

All good thoughts. It would be best, for my own experience, if I were to do all the work myself. Erggg. But the body is feeling its age. LOL I could also find a good shop near me to do the heavy lifting and me get the parts.

I have read much of this thread. Super helpful to all - and have captured the general steps for the springs installation, with correction of placement of wet bolts to be at 3/9 O'clock. Now I'm getting upset because I thought I'd have upgraded to 5200 lbs axles, springs, brakes, etc, but since Oliver cannot upgrade my #110, I still have a ton of work to do on it. My back hurts just thinking about it. LOL My under carriage to-do list still (oy): New springs (Alcan) U-bolts, nuts, plate (Alcan) New shocks (??) Brake assemblies (auto or manual adjust - decisions, decisions) Rotors Bearings, and races if not installed in rotors

@jd1923 and @Ronbrink did a great job laying out what they did to tie in the new Beech Lane fans. I just wasn't "getting it" at first what @jd1923 had done, since we seem to have the same fridge setup. Even with pictures in color I was not "seeing it". LOL. Now I get it thanks to Mike adding my own picture back to me. Nice! I've just ordered my Beech Lane and will be attempting the same setup. Thanks again, and again, and again, to everyone participating. We need to get together someday and talk in person. Maybe a non-rally technical gathering. Heck, we could even do a Zoom call or something like that someday. That would be fun too.

I did months ago when I was troubleshooting that fan. The wire going up to the switch provides no voltage at all and the switch itself seems to be working fine. Not sure when it comes from. Was not looking forward to pulling out the fridge just for that. I may run all new wires to power on/off the new Beech Lane twin fans. We'll see.

The new placement of the thermistor has done the trick. It's on the very last cooling fin inside the fridge and moved to the top. I woke up this morning with 29.5 degrees inside the fridge. I've not seen that ever. And that with no fan running last night. And the #5 lamp bulb was illuminated when I checked on it this morning. Now moving down to #4 setting to observe the temp drop.

Mike, thanks for the confirmation where your fan now gets power. I was also wondering if that location would be enough juice for fans and fridge components. And No! There is no power making it to the inside fan switch. No biggy now that I know I can drop new wires to that location you circled. That's extremely helpful. Thank you so much. I have that beach fan in my cart, but did not pull the trigger yet. Also, after reading the service manual on the fridge and testing the thermistor, and placing it in the correct location in the fridge, I'm currently at 35.5 degrees in the fridge at 9:30 at night. The fan is currently off. This is the coldest I've seen it in a long time, and with nothing in the fridge. I think I have confirmed that lamp #5 in the "eyebrow" is faulty, I've set the fridge from #4 lamp to #5 and no lights (lamp indicators) on the eyebrow are lit up now, but the fridge still gets cooler. So far, so good. We'll see how much longer this fridge will last. Oddly enough I found the Domestic Service manual pretty straight forward and easy to read. I'm sorry for breaking any "Manly-Man rules" by reading the instructions. It will not happen often, I promise. 😂 I will site the Man's Prayer now from the Red Green Show.

Thanks JD. I had lost track of that threads altogether. I'm going to have re re-read that a few times to understand where the 12v power really came from. There's a lot there. I like that dual fan setup.