Wayfinder

Geronimo John, Thanks for the education. I researched the differences between all these acronyms for fuses I'm a bit more smahta now, until tomorrow when I forget. Nothing like keeping it easy for dumb consumers like me. LOL Someone might ask what the downside, or upside, of a ceramic fuse is, like this one (YOLISTIC 30 Amp Slow-Blow Time Delay Fuse Ceramic 6x30mm). Compared to glass. Also Grainger seems to spell it out quite well for the Brussmann 30amp fuse, and "should be" trustworthy compared to some Amazon resellers out there. Take care! Chris

This very old thread (Rear power jacks don't work) did not mention which was a good replacement for the Bussmann fuses that were arriving from Amazon with a single fuse in the bags. What is another "good" fuse to use on these rear jacks that are also "time delayed" or "slow blowing" fuse? This is what was mentioned in the thread. https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-MDL30-Time-Delay-Glass-Fuse/dp/B00139MFXM/ref=pd_cp_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00139MFXM&pd_rd_r=941YEBKBVDQW08XNT36X&pd_rd_w=zg0Jw&pd_rd_wg=eElSR&psc=1&refRID=941YEBKBVDQW08XNT36X&pldnSite=1 These are do not indicate slow blow, yes still a MDL30: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-MDL-30-Fuse-Buss-MDL30/dp/B078SYLF3H

The front jack has been replaced by the previous owner with a Husky Super Brute 4000 Premium Electric Tongue Jack and needs very little maintenance. There's always a leather-like cover on it, so it looks perfect, even to this day. I'll do it's tiny bit of maintenance when it's warmer out. It won't take long. HSB4000 maintenance from the user manual: Due to the design of the Husky® Super Brute’s low-friction ball screw, the inner assembly of the jack does not require regular lubrication. But to keep your jack in good, functional condition, fully extend the jack and clean the inner jack tube once per year. After cleaning, coat the tube with a light grease or silicone spray lubricant. That's the entire maintenance plan. I like it so far. LOL

That worked great John. Thanks. Sometimes I can't see the forest through the trees.

The drivers side came right off without a problem. Time new grease?

Hey, fun times. Look what I THOUGHT I needed to cut out to fully inspect the rear, left jack gears? I can tell the gears are a bit dry especially under the gear lid, which I thought at first I could not remove. Update: Thanks to John Davies' advice, I simply loosened the three 5/32 Allen nuts and was able to completely remove the gear box from the jack stand. There was no need to cut the fiber glass to allow the gear box lid to be removed. But still, the fiberglass opening could have been a half inch to the right. I'm sure Oliver has fixed that after all these years. Also, I did what Jason did and simply tapped all the corners near the bolts and the lids came right off, even after all these years. What do newer EL II openings around the water pump look like these days? Is there more space to remove the gear box?

I will clean the stands and inspect the gears. I've watched that inspection video a couple time before, but never actually checked the gears myself, (BAD BOY). I'll let you all know what I find. They've been like that since I purchased the used 2016 TT, nearly two years ago.

Does this seem normal for older jacks. 2016.

It's very difficult to see on my. You'll need a flash light, but it's on the front. You might see the button if the user manual shows it or look that model up online.

I may have missed it mentioned in this long thread, but will there be discussions of the new changes to the program at the Olivery rally in May, in Gunterville State Park?

N00b mistake! Well, thanks to one of the Private Facebook "Oliver Trailer Owners" (I think) I realized I had not actually registered with Oliver for the rally in May. I'm good now. Make sure you're registered with Oliver. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/events/oliver-owners-rally/

Well, these new hoses went on in a snap. No leaks now. I did need to rotate the tanks 90 degrees so the lines fit best. We'll see if they last another six years.

When I get the new lines installed, I'll upload a before/after pic. I too am hoping the new shorter lines with 90 degree connectors will reduce movement when removing tanks.

Bill, Looks like I already have the hose connector adaptors.

Well, that's a huge cost difference when I'm already looking pretty good, AND I have the Decked system already in the truck. LOL But, if I do more mountain-driving, then I'm sure I'll change my tune. 😝

Carrying too many spare parts gets really expensive. Not only takes up more space, but then I need to upgrade from a 1500 to a 2500 truck. Oooh, that's a good reason. LOL

Sorry if this is duplicate, but I cannot find the correct search term(s) in this forum to find the right thread. It's time to replace my original propane regulator-to-tank hoses. They are leaking at the metal seams. Since my rig is a 2016 (#110) would you recommend also replacing the regulator too? I see no problem with it, yet, but, you know how that goes. Also, what type of hose upgrades might you recommend, if any? Are braided more flexible, safer, better? A little longer than original or not. I used a string to measure mine, I'm not sure how they measure them, but it looks like they may be nearly 15 inches (or 1 1/4') on E-Trailer.com. Also looks like they have the inverted flare male connector (the smaller diameter one). Any part(s) suggestions are welcome. I'm okay with making it better than factory-provided. Is there anything that will allow for less movement of the hoses when taking the tanks in and out? Here's what I see so far: https://www.etrailer.com/Propane-Fittings/JR-Products/37207-30725.html When it's warming, I intend on checking all the lines under the hull too for potential leaks. Happy New Year (2023)

Thanks Bill @topgun2 . I watch the videos and it does look like a simple repair, depending on what product I use to replace the old calk. It does seem completely inadequate to start with, from the factory. This first step I took, was to tighten up all the screws. There were QUITE a few that we very lose. None were stripped out, so that's good. I might get the hose on it today to see what happens. Thanks again gang! I hope to meet some of you at next year's rally in alaBAMA! 😛 Chris

Well, I did it. My first rally event of ANY sort in my life. Make it a good one. LOL I reserved spot G28, but I will arrive on 16th and depart on 22nd. I'm not sure if I'll be solo or with one other person. We'll see. 🙂 Cheers, Chris

The screen I placed in the side of the AC and held in with magnets held up well when traveling. And, no more birds.

Bill and all, thanks for the suggestions. It's been a year of adversities, but finally found that the window on the door leaks. Should be easy to fix, but I have not removed all the internal screws of the inner frame. Has anyone had to reseal the door window? Thanks, Chris

I basically went through the same routine. The new remote can only shut off the inverter, not on, but ONLY with the new cable provided with the new remote. So I assume it's now a firmware issue. Old inverter versus a 2022 remote - dated on the side of the remote. I sent a support ticket to Xantrex, but have heard nothing. They may be laughing, due to age of inverter. I may buy a new one, they appear to be the same exact form factor, but first will see if I even use it enough to warrant a new inverter. Wait until it too dies.

After a year of sitting, my Xantrex ProWatt SW Remote also died. I did just try suggestions above, but looking at the date on the side of the remote (2018), it appears it was already replaced by previous owner. I have Hull #110 (2016). Ordering from Amazon now, $25.00. I'll try to report back on this thread. Amazon Search: "Xantrex 808-9001 PROwatt SW Remote Switch" It's been a long year of personal challenges, time to take the Ollie out for a short trip. I was in it nearly everyday checking battery/solar statuses.

It was time to touch-up the bulldog hitch. I used a pretty good Rust-Oleum flat paint, after wire bushing and cleaning well. Should I bother with a clear coat enamel on top? What would you do? Thanks, Chris

It took me weeks to finally confirm it was the door. The weather seal looks okay. I will take a much closer look at it soon, again.