Wayfinder

My Atwood 36681 RV CM/PL detector has finally failed (faulted) in #110. Looks like I can get the same model from a couple places, from $70 to $120 (eTrailer). I trust eTrailer, not sure about Panther RV Products. https://pantherrvproducts.com/36681/ Also from https://www.rvpartscountry.com/rv-atwood-dual-lp-co-alarm.html Does anyone have another reputable place to find a white replacement. Black is much cheaper (stupid). I love the on/off switch idea @John E Davies, thanks! Thanks, Chris

My trailer came already tinted, maybe because it was the 2016 demo unit, but if it breaks in the future, I will try it. Thanks.

Well, a long over due repair is finally complete. For over a year now my door had leaked a bit if the rain hit that side of the camper. Whoever makes those doors for Oliver really does NOT use much sealant on the window and plastic window frames (inner & outer). I did "okay". I used Butyl tape that I had on hand. It made me feel like I was playing with Silly Putty again. I used it liberally so I hope that will be the end of the leak for a while. The clean-up of the outside putty took a minute or three do do, but not bad. It was a beautiful day out. Here's also a short video of pealing off the old factory sealant. Window-Sealant-Satisfaction-HB.mp4

I completed my rear jack inspection and re-greasing last week, finally. Look like it was the first time since the jacks were installed at Oliver. Unlike @John E Davies my gearbox has no drive area, however, it was certainly time for new grease, no question. I gears looked brand new with no signs of heat strain (no brown areas). I think it was @John E Davies or @SeaDawgwho mentioned to loosen the three Allan nuts under the gearbox in order to spin the passenger-side gearbox in order to get it around the edge of the fiberglass edge. It worked like a charm. Thanks! I cleaned out as much old lithium grease and replaced it with fresh Mobilith SHC PM 460 White Lithium Complex Multipurpose Grease. I even setup my phone to video record the sound and to check for any movement of the jacks under load. I did not notice any movement, but I will double check the jack bolts that go through the frame. Others have reported them as loose as one full turn. I cleaned the jack legs too and inspected for any damage. They both looked with only road grime on them. I coated with a dry lube and worked them up and down a couple times. I forgot to take a pick of my grease job. But, looked just like John's grease job, only white instead of red. LOL Also updated my maintenance log. Don't forget to do that.

Here's an update to the fuses. I finally received the new fuses. They must have taken the low-boat from Ebay, so the receipt indicates. But what is surprising is how heavy the fuses are. They really have some weight to them. Details: 5-pack of Littlefuse MDL-30, 30A 32V Time Delay (Slow Blow), as noted on the receipt. A total of $11.10 (including shipping - $4.29) See the 10% off code in my pic. It may help a bit. Thanks everyone for the help. I also finally received my Mobilith SHC PM 460 White Lithium Complex Multipurpose Grease for the rear jacks, time to re-grease those gears. The 2016 grease is quite dry as noted in other threads.

@John E Davies It's not quite been two years since you used that awesome grease in the electric jacks, but it "might be" of interest to some what the grease is now looking like, at least in one of the rear jacks, which are easier to inspect. I would imaging, even with a good bit of use, that the grease looks fine and has remained on the teeth of the gears/cogs, unlike the white grease that came from the jack manufacturer.

Thanks Steve and Deb for the link to a product which, surprisingly, details out what the fuse is "typically" used for. Also Geronimo John's links to better educate Ollie Owners, who are not super heroes with electrical yet. It's great that the Blue Sea 30A slow-blow fuse really does a great job describing what these fuses are. It's the first fuse description I've seen that does that well. Agreed? About this item (Blue Sea Systems MDL Fuses) 2 slow blow glass fuses per retail package For use with Blue Sea Systems' ST Glass Fuse Blocks and AGC or MDL fuse holders AGC and MDL fuses are typically used in DC systems up to 32V DC Visible indication of blown condition Slow blow glass fuse for pumps and other motors For use with Blue Sea Systems' ST Glass Fuse Blocks and AGC or MDL fuse holders AGC and MDL fuses are typically used in DC systems up to 32V DC Five per retail package 1,000A Interrupt Capacity

Geronimo John, Thanks for the education. I researched the differences between all these acronyms for fuses I'm a bit more smahta now, until tomorrow when I forget. Nothing like keeping it easy for dumb consumers like me. LOL Someone might ask what the downside, or upside, of a ceramic fuse is, like this one (YOLISTIC 30 Amp Slow-Blow Time Delay Fuse Ceramic 6x30mm). Compared to glass. Also Grainger seems to spell it out quite well for the Brussmann 30amp fuse, and "should be" trustworthy compared to some Amazon resellers out there. Take care! Chris

This very old thread (Rear power jacks don't work) did not mention which was a good replacement for the Bussmann fuses that were arriving from Amazon with a single fuse in the bags. What is another "good" fuse to use on these rear jacks that are also "time delayed" or "slow blowing" fuse? This is what was mentioned in the thread. https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-MDL30-Time-Delay-Glass-Fuse/dp/B00139MFXM/ref=pd_cp_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00139MFXM&pd_rd_r=941YEBKBVDQW08XNT36X&pd_rd_w=zg0Jw&pd_rd_wg=eElSR&psc=1&refRID=941YEBKBVDQW08XNT36X&pldnSite=1 These are do not indicate slow blow, yes still a MDL30: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-MDL-30-Fuse-Buss-MDL30/dp/B078SYLF3H

The front jack has been replaced by the previous owner with a Husky Super Brute 4000 Premium Electric Tongue Jack and needs very little maintenance. There's always a leather-like cover on it, so it looks perfect, even to this day. I'll do it's tiny bit of maintenance when it's warmer out. It won't take long. HSB4000 maintenance from the user manual: Due to the design of the Husky® Super Brute’s low-friction ball screw, the inner assembly of the jack does not require regular lubrication. But to keep your jack in good, functional condition, fully extend the jack and clean the inner jack tube once per year. After cleaning, coat the tube with a light grease or silicone spray lubricant. That's the entire maintenance plan. I like it so far. LOL

That worked great John. Thanks. Sometimes I can't see the forest through the trees.

The drivers side came right off without a problem. Time new grease?

Hey, fun times. Look what I THOUGHT I needed to cut out to fully inspect the rear, left jack gears? I can tell the gears are a bit dry especially under the gear lid, which I thought at first I could not remove. Update: Thanks to John Davies' advice, I simply loosened the three 5/32 Allen nuts and was able to completely remove the gear box from the jack stand. There was no need to cut the fiber glass to allow the gear box lid to be removed. But still, the fiberglass opening could have been a half inch to the right. I'm sure Oliver has fixed that after all these years. Also, I did what Jason did and simply tapped all the corners near the bolts and the lids came right off, even after all these years. What do newer EL II openings around the water pump look like these days? Is there more space to remove the gear box?

I will clean the stands and inspect the gears. I've watched that inspection video a couple time before, but never actually checked the gears myself, (BAD BOY). I'll let you all know what I find. They've been like that since I purchased the used 2016 TT, nearly two years ago.

Does this seem normal for older jacks. 2016.

It's very difficult to see on my. You'll need a flash light, but it's on the front. You might see the button if the user manual shows it or look that model up online.

I may have missed it mentioned in this long thread, but will there be discussions of the new changes to the program at the Olivery rally in May, in Gunterville State Park?

N00b mistake! Well, thanks to one of the Private Facebook "Oliver Trailer Owners" (I think) I realized I had not actually registered with Oliver for the rally in May. I'm good now. Make sure you're registered with Oliver. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/events/oliver-owners-rally/

Well, these new hoses went on in a snap. No leaks now. I did need to rotate the tanks 90 degrees so the lines fit best. We'll see if they last another six years.

When I get the new lines installed, I'll upload a before/after pic. I too am hoping the new shorter lines with 90 degree connectors will reduce movement when removing tanks.

Bill, Looks like I already have the hose connector adaptors.

Well, that's a huge cost difference when I'm already looking pretty good, AND I have the Decked system already in the truck. LOL But, if I do more mountain-driving, then I'm sure I'll change my tune. 😝

Carrying too many spare parts gets really expensive. Not only takes up more space, but then I need to upgrade from a 1500 to a 2500 truck. Oooh, that's a good reason. LOL

Sorry if this is duplicate, but I cannot find the correct search term(s) in this forum to find the right thread. It's time to replace my original propane regulator-to-tank hoses. They are leaking at the metal seams. Since my rig is a 2016 (#110) would you recommend also replacing the regulator too? I see no problem with it, yet, but, you know how that goes. Also, what type of hose upgrades might you recommend, if any? Are braided more flexible, safer, better? A little longer than original or not. I used a string to measure mine, I'm not sure how they measure them, but it looks like they may be nearly 15 inches (or 1 1/4') on E-Trailer.com. Also looks like they have the inverted flare male connector (the smaller diameter one). Any part(s) suggestions are welcome. I'm okay with making it better than factory-provided. Is there anything that will allow for less movement of the hoses when taking the tanks in and out? Here's what I see so far: https://www.etrailer.com/Propane-Fittings/JR-Products/37207-30725.html When it's warming, I intend on checking all the lines under the hull too for potential leaks. Happy New Year (2023)

Thanks Bill @topgun2 . I watch the videos and it does look like a simple repair, depending on what product I use to replace the old calk. It does seem completely inadequate to start with, from the factory. This first step I took, was to tighten up all the screws. There were QUITE a few that we very lose. None were stripped out, so that's good. I might get the hose on it today to see what happens. Thanks again gang! I hope to meet some of you at next year's rally in alaBAMA! 😛 Chris