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Everything posted by Wayfinder

  1. Because of this thread I had repacked my bearings over a year ago, wow, over 1.5 years. Oy! Time flies. Anywho, when putting on my tire I had got checked out at the tire shop I noticed not one, but two wheel bearings needed to be snugged up a tad bit. It was a good find and a quick tweak. All-in-all, a good night for minor repairs and improvements. Maybe a step closer to a super long trip. I still prefer these forums over Facebook. 🙂
  2. I love that pad. My truck has a similar one I always carry as well.
  3. I just contacted the CORRECT Steven Cobb on FB and let him know to be careful and to warn his friends. I confirmed it was me by providing info that only he and I together would know.
  4. I'm not sure how to get hold of Steve, but some jerk is portraying him on Facebook. I've posted a message on the Oliver Owners group, but that all I can do. That account only has 4 friends and just a few pictures. Be careful. I tried to confirm it was him by immediately asking what we did last week and where we met. The jerk on the other end kept repeating BS about some great site or organization. Big clue! Facebook is getting crappier everyday.
  5. I also posted on FB, but I like the forums best. I did search the forums, but didn't see the exact configuration complaint. Who has this AC outlets setup in their Oliver and what year is your TT? I have a 2016 Elite II and I just discovered that in the breaker panel there is no dedicated breaker for the 15 amp outlets around the trailer. I discovered this while replacing the outlet by the drivers side twin bed, inside the rear drawer cabinet. This new outlet has built-in USB-A & USB-C receptacles as well, for AC plugs. I have two GFCIs which protect all the 15 amp outlets in the trailer, including the microwave. The GFCI on the Xantrex inverter itself AND a GFCI under the dinette, across from the breaker box. This is fine, but I first searched the breaker panel like any sane person might do. #5 "110 outlets - 15A" SHOULD be the breaker, but it does not seem to do anything. "Now I know."
  6. @Steve Morris Thanks for you site-to-name list you maintained for this year's rally. It was very helpful to have it bookmarked on my phone to cross reference who I was face-to-face with. Hopefully someone will take up the torch for next year's rally. I know many of us have already reserved out site for next year.
  7. I'm using that Tuxtop that @Ollie-Haus posted a pic of. I think it's much better than the cheaper version with the edge around it. The fan noice is better and I like the controls.
  8. NOOOOOOOO, no it was not easy. LoL OMG that was two hours I'll never get back. It's done and with no leaks. I filled up the grey tank to 100%, and then some. I let it sit for over an hour, checking for leaks very carefully and with a very bright light and white glove test. I also opened and closed the gate valve a few times and checked for leaks. The grey tank valve in this 2016 model is extremely difficult to do. Unlike the black tank valve that has rubber pipe connectors to loosen up for wiggle room. Next time, I drive to Tennessee and let Oliver curse through that grey tank valve. Errrgggggg. If you have a bad back, are over weight, or have arthritis in the hands I would think twice before attempting this. I hope the newer models have improved this part replacement. I had to rest my head on the jack motor several times. Oh, long arms are required. I've annotated some pictures. No certain order. Hopefully the plumbers grease will add an extra two years of life. I think the job could have been substantially easier if the gate valve could have been 1/8 to 1/4 inches off the basement floor. It would have at least saved time getting the two lower nuts off and on again. It's tricky for sure. I'm considering doing a short video with the pics and doing a voice-over to describe the challenges. In some of the pictures you can see what I believe is the grey tank sensor board in the background. Be careful with tools around the sensor, it could be damaged and work even less affective than it already does. I used a hammer as leverage to separate the grey tank side of the valve with the main black tank pipe. On my TT many of the electrical wire bundles were between the hull and the main drain pipe, preventing movement. I was however able to lift the bundles up to relieve some of the pressure on the drain pipe.
  9. A small chisel helped to wedge it up a tad bit.
  10. I hope Oliver lifts this up off the floor even 1/4". He'll, I'd be happy with 1/8".
  11. Funny you should ask. Still trying. The bottom bolts are right on the basement floor. TIGHT, very! No curse words yet, but no promises. I tried to shim under the pipe, but man it would budge. So, slow going with big man fingers.
  12. While considering to replace my grey tank seal, I found a lose spare part, a pex fitting end/stop. LOL. Been there's likely since 2016. Not something I want rolling around with electrical connections. Does have a brass crimper and the brass connector. Also finger-checked all my electrical connections under the driver's side bed to ensure everything is still snug.
  13. So, without a bike, and it in section G (G28), how much of a walk is it to the main hall daily? Also, it looks like good chance of rain at least one day. Thoughts? This will be my first time. I've been fighting plantar fasciitis since last summer. I'm sure I will aggravating the foot without a bike. But, I am considering bringing it. I'll need to get old-school peddles as I only have my clip-in peddles. Thanks,
  14. Folks, it looks like a chance of rain for much of my 5 hour trip and throughout the week of the rally. Don't forget to clean and apply Rain-X to at least your front windshield. Be safe out there.
  15. Do you think the newer windows are a better design than the old? I know you may not have touched the old ones before, as I have not seen the new. But I will need new windows eventually and I'm sure they'll be a different design.
  16. Great tips, thanks. I also have used the silicone spray before just to allow windows to slide nicely.
  17. My tire shop did say these stems are rated for the 90 PSI Michelins. But I'm not an expert in stems... and will never be close to 90 PSI on an Oliver.
  18. Thanks. I also posted the entire lineup of these tires a few posts back in this thread. I had the tires inflated to 50 lbs. But even that seems high for these tires and my Oliver. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=26016&key=7584a7c5c8aa611b54b4492d5c7eddeb
  19. Well, here are the Michelin Agilis CrossClimate tires. They look like tires. 😂 No shine on them yet. And I lost my metal stems. Darn it. They were out. These are longer too. I don't like it.
  20. I feel like the forums have been a tad quiet for the past week. Everyone must be out spiffing up their trailers. I know I have. 😉
  21. Although my quickie front jack stand box looks like crap (version 1.0), I'm going to do something to it that I have not seen any of you mention in the forums. So, you'll have to stop by camp site G28 to see it. I did sand it down some and stained. Oh, the suspense of it all.
  22. Unfortunately we were not on level ground, otherwise I would have done at least one side at a time. But, it worked out. New shoes are on Wayfinder.
  23. Next time I just take the tires off and drop them off. Oy. Like some here have mentioned they really don't have all the necessary good equipment to reach that high into the frame. I marked and told they guy where to jack, but he ended up jacking right in the spring connection point. And he even said he didn't want to do that. Shaking head. So, if this can be a somewhat common issue at certain tire shop locations, the height problem that is, I wonder if Oliver could weld on specific jack plates that drop down from the primary frame, about two inches. That way there is never a question from where to jack. Thoughts?
  24. In 1 hour I go to the tire shop to get a new tires have marked what I think is the best place for jack points. Based off of your pictures. My 2016 doesn't appear to have extra metal under the frame, but these points match your descriptions. I've also noted potential damage to propane lines on the passenger side.
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