Wayfinder

Yes, #110 has the exact setup pictured above. Mike (forget last name) at the AL rally told me how to test my fan and power leading to it. I found that no matter what, there is no power going to the fan. I tested the switch and it appears to work as expected. I have not bothered to pull out the fridge, and/or microwave, to figure out there the disconnect is yet. I've lived with the fan off since I owned the trailer. I will be asking Oliver which to pull out first to trace the wire. I figure it's the fridge. Again, not knowing where it's connected in the cabinet. I wonder if it ever worked, even for the first owner.

Just so I understand your question. Do you mean the CO2 / propane detector under the dinette by the electrical panel? If so, then yes, I pulled the fuse during one of my tests to see where the draw was coming from. During one test ALL 12v fuses were pulled out, just to be sure. Good news this morning. After putting the trailer in "dark mode" last night, (with everything off and breakers popped open) the Blue Sky seems to have "fixed itself". After verifying the batteries had stabilized down to 12.94v and were holding this morning, I powered up the solar controller and reset the rear breakers. In short order I noticed a more "expected" behavior from the ProRemote, with only a draw of -1.1 amps, while it was rethinking it's life's decisions. LOL I verified all settings as Ryan from BlueSky had me set them to a few years ago (same batteries). All was well there. One test I did, out of curiosity, was to change, just for a few minutes, the "self discharge" setting. Ryan, and the user manual, suggested keeping it at 10% for FLA batteries. I put it to 0.00% to see what the ProRemote would say the draw would be. It immediately dropped down to 0.0amps. After re-reading the ProRemote user manual in the house, I went back out and set it back to 10% self discharge. The ProRemote leveled out to what I would consider a more "normal" behavior for my system, with a draw of -1.1amps consistently. As the sun is coming up now, the system is going from float to acceptance and back again as needed. Also, the charge level hashes (#####) appeared much, much sooner after turning the system back on, compared to yesterday or day before. Previously they would not show up for hours, which frankly I think was a normal behavior for my system if the power was taken away from the BlueSky for a while. Either way, it feels like it is "happier" now. I'll keep an eye on it throughout the day. I'll keep only solar on it for now and keep the shore power off until I confirm it's behavior. Thanks again! Great fun learning something new that does not involve a keyboard and a desk. LOL I still have not gotten around to checking the draw using my clamp multimeter. I will, hopefully today. Depends how busy I get at work.

@topgun2 it's not the inverter. Good thought, but like you, I really don't use it too much. It's in an off state. I must say, I've had a good bit of fun touching all this stuff and getting more hands-on. I've been wanting to find something in retirement, whatever that will look like for me, to replace my current IT job/hobby. Something where I'm moving around more yet still staying technical. Thirty years of desk work on a keyboard in data centers has taken its toll on my back and neck. My interest has been solar and batteries for a long time, but have been nervous about doing things on my own. Usually I find when I do finally accomplish a new task or learn a new skill, I find it wasn't that hard after all. I'm a big scaredy-cat. LoL

@jd1923All good questions. First, I had to clean up the tray and paint it, so all the batteries had to be removed. Also, I have the new converter, so I was thinking "maybe" that had something to do with it, as I'm still learning the system. The great news is I'm learning and there's no better way to learn the system's behavior than with old gear that I cannot wait to get rid of. LOL I too noticed the light still on from the solar, but I just now noticed it takes a few moments to go out after killing the power. I've shutdown the rig for the night, all breakers open or off and no shore power. It's 9pm and I'm taking readings on the batteries until I go to bet in a couple hours. I'll check to see if there is any "real" drain on the batteries in the morning. Heck, I even pulled the emergency break pin to ensure the drain increased by the expected -12amps, and it did. I suspected maybe a stuck break or something. I'm suspecting the BlueSky is wonky at this point since taking out the batteries for a day or so. Heck, it's old and it may have lost it's marbles, I know I am. I'll be at the factory next week, for other extensive upgrades, maybe I can get them to upgrade the solar controller along with batteries too, but maybe not Lithium right now. But that's a larger discussion with Jason, his team, and my wallet. Again, I'm winging all this right now. Not sure which way I "need" to go at this moment in the trailer's life, or my own travel plans, Lithium or AGM. I know all the pros and cons with the batteries, all too well. Decissions, decissions! $$ Cha-ching $$ I'm not sure how long it takes for the batteries to "settle down" from being on a charger since the trailer was on shore power. I did notice, with all this heat we have in GA, that the new converter fan was running when I opened the panel box. I don't think I ever noticed the old fan running. Maybe it was dead, but that's not -2.3 amps worth, especially when the converter breaker was off during earlier testing. 13.14v - 9:25pm 13.07v - 9:40pm Thanks for all the great suggestions. It curious to me at this point. Chris

@jd1923 to correct that display issue Ryan had me simply take the display panel out and unplug the phone jack looking cable. That resets the display. It happens to mine about once a year. More to come. Thanks.

Well darn. I'm not sure if this is normal. I don't think it is. There seems to be a -2.3Amp draw on the system, even with every breaker off, EVERY 12v fused pulled out, and every resettable breaker popped open under the driver's side buck. Could this be the new converter/charger doing this? I need to wait for a cooler day to switch back to check. It's nasty hour in Georgia this morning. The only other thing changed was the battery configuration after tray clean-up. See battery diagrams, current -vs- orginal. That's the easiest to put back. There is NOTHING plugged into the trailer. No shore power, etc. Updated: I just ran through the troubleshooting instructions from Progressive Industries, everything checks out perfect and batteries are charging off of shore power, 120v/20a receptacle. https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/PD4045-TROUBLESHOOTING.pdf For my 2016 Ollie, the converter breaker is the 15amp breaker all the way to the right of the panel picture below. Thanks!

Well, as many of you know, the converter/charger upgrade is easy. I had no issues with mine. Step one "check". The cricket noise may or may not have gone away. I cannot tell with Tinnitus - same sound. I checked basic functionality of the charger/converter with my Jackery 3000 Pro. Everything seems fine. Even ran the A/C for a while.

I'm surprised to see many companies now offering 11 year warranties. Let's face it. Nothing outside of good water heaters offers that length of support. Interesting. Says a lot about the technology, that's getting to be all too common. Only time will tell.

When I'm at the OTT factory in a couple weeks, I'll have a lot of new questions and taking closer looks at the latest electrical setup.

It would have to be completely cloudy and off-grid for ..... maybe a month or two before using all that, with some A/C usage. Also, I love me some of Todd's "Two Minute Tech-Tip Tuesday", but they have a lot to prove with those batteries. Maybe something about the name, "Big Beard Battery". 🤷‍♂️

Thank you guys for all the great info. I'm making new documents with pics and explanations not only for me, but the next owner, if ever. These docs will be updated as the camper gets updates. I also keep fairly extensive maintenance & parts logs.

Thanks Max Burner, Yeah, I have the good ole MPPT CC from BlueSky. I'd love some confirmations on these numbered pieces. 1. A shunt to what, I'm not sure. 2. Kills the BlueSky Charge Controller 3. I'm not sure yet. Also with Lithium batteries, where did you send up placing your Victron SmartShunt? Thanks,

I think my spare on #110 is smaller than my current, and original Michelins. Not sure I can get one of the main tires into the spare cover. I've kinda tried once. Seemed like it would be too tight. Anyone else seen that before?

@SeaDawg again, thanks for all the good advice. @topgun2 I'm starting a clean thread on this as not to drive SeaDawg crazier. LOL I was hoping to do a systems upgrade in pieces, if possible. First converter (in the mail), then batteries, etc - if that makes sense. Right now with hull #110 (2016), I have all original equipment, except batteries. Currently Flooded lead-acid. I have the Xantrex 2000W inverter with the BlueSky Solar controller and ProRemote. I did just pick up a new Victron Smartshunt, but holding off installing it until I choose new batteries. I'm an IT guy of 30 years, so not a complete dumb monkey, but maybe a bit slow at first. LOL. I'm always scared to try new things by myself, failing with someone else is not that bad. Also just ordered the new Progressive Industries converter (PD4045CSV) to allow for Lithium charging. Great threads on these forums for all that stuff! I was wondering if the Bluesky Solar controller can be configured to properly charge most Lithiums. I can always call Ryan, if he's still at BlueSky. He showed me how to configure the controller using the ProRemote panel. I'm okay with it. Naturally, I'd love all Victron stuff, if it would fit nicely. And again, I want some hand-holding by a qualified person. Maybe I'll seek out a pro who would allow me to work with them to learn. Some do, especially in the Van community. I'm not yet looking at running the A/C off of batteries. That'll take a newer A/C unit. Not a priority at the moment and keeping it as simple as possible. Realizing I'm just learning and dreaming, and there are MANY paths from which to choose, here's just one idea I was recently considering, due to battery form-factor in the current battery box & tray area. I'm sure there are negatives I'm not thinking about yet. Can I, or should I, do this in stages? Naturally money will be a factor, and I'm a working stiff, so time can be an issue. One thought is to install two 320AH Dakota DL+ batteries to make for a simple and clean wiring setup with redundancy built-in. I was briefly considering a single 320AH battery from Dakota, or any good battery, however, that does not give me any redundancy if one battery fails on a long trip. I'm okay with Battleborns, 12v 100AH, but I'd want very clean connections, maybe a custom bus bar to connect all the batteries with shrink tubing and covers to protect connector bars. At best, I currently only have 160 Ah useable in my old crappy lead-acids. Likely less due to age. Pics are not to scale. I am subject to all the things I have not yet considered, that you will teach me. LOL Thanks!

Thank you @SeaDawg and others for the assist. As i'm still honing my skills in Solar, electrical, etc. I'm nervous about venturing too deep by myself, and all at once.

Thanks Bill. I thought I found it on Amazon the other day, but when I just looked, I could only find the 60 amp. Oh well. I just got it from eTrailer for now. I'll love to pick your brain about if you moved to Lithium on your own, and what pieces you ended up changing out. Thanks Much. I can call you if it makes things easier/quicker, whenever is convenient. No rush.

Okay! It's time to get serious about ensuring all my electrical connections are tight enough. Over the years I've found quite a few lose connections in the old #110. Including nearly burned out connections inside the auto-switch box, very brown plastic bus bar. I don't know what is good or what is crap out there in terms of a "good-enough" torque screwdriver (or wrench). I've seen some reviews saying some are difficult to hold over a certain torque spec. Any experienced owners out there who could recommend something? Just enough to support anything in an Oliver. I don't need to get crazy with it. Thanks!

And here I was just researching upgrading the converter from an old PD4045 (lead acid only) to the newer lithium-capable PD4045CSV. Since I have tinnitus, it does not bother me to hear those "crickets", but it sounds like, no pun intended, that upgrading the controller in preparation for a Lithium upgrade will kill two birds with one stone. Since I don't trust purchasing the parts like this on Amazon anymore. I'll get it from Etrailer. I've used them before with great success. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Progressive-Dynamics/PD4045CSV.html

I must be miss-reading this, with my old brain. But "Agilis" CrossClimates are Michelin. They're awesome so far. But time will tell.

I'll carry a pressure gauge when I'm at the factory. That won't look suspicious at all. LOL. I'll wear my Oliver hat I got at the rally. hehe

Has anyone had success re-sticking the tank sensors to the tanks? In my case the fresh water tank, and likely the grey tank, sensors are starting to peel up from the bottom. They still work, as well as ever, but eventually they will peel off completely.

Congratz on the new tires @csevel. I'm too late to this thread, but I also went with new Michelin Agilis Cross Climate - LT225/75 R16. I love 'em, but I'd love any good reliable tire that is round and black. Many folks love those coopers. Keep them covered when not in use! I'm still a bit confused though. After all these years of many forum threads mentioning pressure from the factory, why are they still putting 80psi in them? I understand if one blows that will place more "pressure" on the others, but 80psi is one hell of a hard ride. I also keep mine at just under 50psi, but I travel extremely light too. No much extra in the way of toys, yet. I'll be at the factory in July getting the new suspension upgrade and windows on the old #110. I'll ask that question there. I forgot to open up that can of worms at the Alabama rally. LOL

The Furrion S cameras may be a bit of a challenge, but I may try a molded plastic cover with 3M adhesive tape, or, I have some friends into 3D printing. If that did not void any warranty, a 3D printed white cover could be added to every Ollie with that Camera. I'm thinking the 3D printed cover could potentially look quite nice, if done well. It could also have screw holes used by the camera's provided screws.

I'm looking forward to replacing the outdoor shower, but it will have to wait until I get to the rally. Part just arrived. Q: Can you make a deck chair from PEX piping, like all the things you can make with PVC? LOL. Just kidding!