Wayfinder

Yeah, I've seen a lot of great videos out there about these fans. I also didn't know about sealing the motherboards until I was helping her recently. We love and hate these fans, but the great thing is that it looks like most of the parts can be reordered. I've already had to change out that cheap pot metal cog mechanism which raises the lid up and down. That was not a fun sound to hear in the middle of the night. These forums has helped me with that project.

Karren from hull #422 contacted me the other day, I helped her at the rally this year. Her Maxxfan stopped working after a storm passed through. I had her reset the power to the fan's motherboard. Like my trailer, there is no dedicated 12v fuse for the fan. So, I had her disconnect from shore power and disconnect her batteries by using the disconnect switch under the bunk. This worked like a charm. The fan is fine, for now. I've done that before too when my fan's remote stopped working with the fan. Reboots fix almost everything, outside of hammers and duct tape. She may have continued issues if that Maxxfan Mobo, is on the way out. Her CO2 detector also went off about the same time, so it could have been a minor serge from the lightning storm. She has both an external EMS outside as well as her internal EMS, so I'm not sure how this could happen, but I'm no electrician. Has anyone else seen this before? I would guess it can be common at times. I created this video to hopefully help others with this simple reset trick.

yeah, you're right, but I don't get along well with this forum's search function. I should have used Google at least. I was lazy! There!

You completely cheated when knowing what to search for. You participated a lot in that thread. Oh sure, everything is easy if you have the answer. LoL 😂

@Galway Girl I see you have some sort of red lock-down screw thingy protecting your propane tanks. Do you have more info on that? Or anyone else have a thread already going in the forums on protecting propane tanks? Thanks again! Chris

Well, as I'm using my trailer more now, and my regulator is likely original (2016), it's likely time for it to fail. Since I've used eTrailer before, I just went with them. Slow web pages, but reliable parts in my experience. https://www.etrailer.com/p-37207-30395.html Thanks @Galway Girl (Craig) and everyone for the detail info. I think I've seen more yellow flames on the stove lately. Will monitor it.

Thanks Frank. I did not stress that in my video but I should have. I think I know more about lug nuts than I expected, and much more to learn for sure. Such a simple part, but one which keeps the foundation of a vehicle connected properly. Forum contributors are the best.

Pricey but high quality.

Hey folks, I did a "quick'ish" video regarding upgrading our lug nuts to solid chrome versions. I hope it's helpful to someone. I try to make fun of myself and any mistakes I made. Hopefully others will learn from them. LOL. I'm till learning how I should present. Much more to learn. Please let me know if I said anything too terribly wrong!

@PatriotI already replaced most of them. I didn't realized until I started putting them on that I only ordered a 20 piece set, but needed 24 nuts. I'll get more a my local auto store tomorrow. Shop around for some better quality than I got, but here is the size. 24 count 1.38 inch Chrome 1/2-20 Closed End Bulge Acorn Lug Nuts - Cone Seat - 19mm Hex Wheel Lug Nut How about these: https://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Closed-Bulge-Acorn-Wheel/dp/B07SLDRL14

@csevel Hope you're doing well. I'm not sure if you made it to the Guntersville rally or not. I was there, but way too many new names to keep track of. I replaced my lug nuts tonight and also discovered SIX cracked lug nut shields on the Oliver-provided lug nuts from 2016, only five pictured. I found this info out at the rally. I should have seen your posting first though. LOL

Because of this thread I had repacked my bearings over a year ago, wow, over 1.5 years. Oy! Time flies. Anywho, when putting on my tire I had got checked out at the tire shop I noticed not one, but two wheel bearings needed to be snugged up a tad bit. It was a good find and a quick tweak. All-in-all, a good night for minor repairs and improvements. Maybe a step closer to a super long trip. I still prefer these forums over Facebook. 🙂

I love that pad. My truck has a similar one I always carry as well.

I just contacted the CORRECT Steven Cobb on FB and let him know to be careful and to warn his friends. I confirmed it was me by providing info that only he and I together would know.

I'm not sure how to get hold of Steve, but some jerk is portraying him on Facebook. I've posted a message on the Oliver Owners group, but that all I can do. That account only has 4 friends and just a few pictures. Be careful. I tried to confirm it was him by immediately asking what we did last week and where we met. The jerk on the other end kept repeating BS about some great site or organization. Big clue! Facebook is getting crappier everyday.

I also posted on FB, but I like the forums best. I did search the forums, but didn't see the exact configuration complaint. Who has this AC outlets setup in their Oliver and what year is your TT? I have a 2016 Elite II and I just discovered that in the breaker panel there is no dedicated breaker for the 15 amp outlets around the trailer. I discovered this while replacing the outlet by the drivers side twin bed, inside the rear drawer cabinet. This new outlet has built-in USB-A & USB-C receptacles as well, for AC plugs. I have two GFCIs which protect all the 15 amp outlets in the trailer, including the microwave. The GFCI on the Xantrex inverter itself AND a GFCI under the dinette, across from the breaker box. This is fine, but I first searched the breaker panel like any sane person might do. #5 "110 outlets - 15A" SHOULD be the breaker, but it does not seem to do anything. "Now I know."

@Steve Morris Thanks for you site-to-name list you maintained for this year's rally. It was very helpful to have it bookmarked on my phone to cross reference who I was face-to-face with. Hopefully someone will take up the torch for next year's rally. I know many of us have already reserved out site for next year.

I'm using that Tuxtop that @Ollie-Haus posted a pic of. I think it's much better than the cheaper version with the edge around it. The fan noice is better and I like the controls.

NOOOOOOOO, no it was not easy. LoL OMG that was two hours I'll never get back. It's done and with no leaks. I filled up the grey tank to 100%, and then some. I let it sit for over an hour, checking for leaks very carefully and with a very bright light and white glove test. I also opened and closed the gate valve a few times and checked for leaks. The grey tank valve in this 2016 model is extremely difficult to do. Unlike the black tank valve that has rubber pipe connectors to loosen up for wiggle room. Next time, I drive to Tennessee and let Oliver curse through that grey tank valve. Errrgggggg. If you have a bad back, are over weight, or have arthritis in the hands I would think twice before attempting this. I hope the newer models have improved this part replacement. I had to rest my head on the jack motor several times. Oh, long arms are required. I've annotated some pictures. No certain order. Hopefully the plumbers grease will add an extra two years of life. I think the job could have been substantially easier if the gate valve could have been 1/8 to 1/4 inches off the basement floor. It would have at least saved time getting the two lower nuts off and on again. It's tricky for sure. I'm considering doing a short video with the pics and doing a voice-over to describe the challenges. In some of the pictures you can see what I believe is the grey tank sensor board in the background. Be careful with tools around the sensor, it could be damaged and work even less affective than it already does. I used a hammer as leverage to separate the grey tank side of the valve with the main black tank pipe. On my TT many of the electrical wire bundles were between the hull and the main drain pipe, preventing movement. I was however able to lift the bundles up to relieve some of the pressure on the drain pipe.

A small chisel helped to wedge it up a tad bit.

I hope Oliver lifts this up off the floor even 1/4". He'll, I'd be happy with 1/8".

Funny you should ask. Still trying. The bottom bolts are right on the basement floor. TIGHT, very! No curse words yet, but no promises. I tried to shim under the pipe, but man it would budge. So, slow going with big man fingers.

While considering to replace my grey tank seal, I found a lose spare part, a pex fitting end/stop. LOL. Been there's likely since 2016. Not something I want rolling around with electrical connections. Does have a brass crimper and the brass connector. Also finger-checked all my electrical connections under the driver's side bed to ensure everything is still snug.

So, without a bike, and it in section G (G28), how much of a walk is it to the main hall daily? Also, it looks like good chance of rain at least one day. Thoughts? This will be my first time. I've been fighting plantar fasciitis since last summer. I'm sure I will aggravating the foot without a bike. But, I am considering bringing it. I'll need to get old-school peddles as I only have my clip-in peddles. Thanks,

Folks, it looks like a chance of rain for much of my 5 hour trip and throughout the week of the rally. Don't forget to clean and apply Rain-X to at least your front windshield. Be safe out there.