Wayfinder

I also posted on FB, but I like the forums best. I did search the forums, but didn't see the exact configuration complaint. Who has this AC outlets setup in their Oliver and what year is your TT? I have a 2016 Elite II and I just discovered that in the breaker panel there is no dedicated breaker for the 15 amp outlets around the trailer. I discovered this while replacing the outlet by the drivers side twin bed, inside the rear drawer cabinet. This new outlet has built-in USB-A & USB-C receptacles as well, for AC plugs. I have two GFCIs which protect all the 15 amp outlets in the trailer, including the microwave. The GFCI on the Xantrex inverter itself AND a GFCI under the dinette, across from the breaker box. This is fine, but I first searched the breaker panel like any sane person might do. #5 "110 outlets - 15A" SHOULD be the breaker, but it does not seem to do anything. "Now I know."

I'm using that Tuxtop that @Ollie-Haus posted a pic of. I think it's much better than the cheaper version with the edge around it. The fan noice is better and I like the controls.

NOOOOOOOO, no it was not easy. LoL OMG that was two hours I'll never get back. It's done and with no leaks. I filled up the grey tank to 100%, and then some. I let it sit for over an hour, checking for leaks very carefully and with a very bright light and white glove test. I also opened and closed the gate valve a few times and checked for leaks. The grey tank valve in this 2016 model is extremely difficult to do. Unlike the black tank valve that has rubber pipe connectors to loosen up for wiggle room. Next time, I drive to Tennessee and let Oliver curse through that grey tank valve. Errrgggggg. If you have a bad back, are over weight, or have arthritis in the hands I would think twice before attempting this. I hope the newer models have improved this part replacement. I had to rest my head on the jack motor several times. Oh, long arms are required. I've annotated some pictures. No certain order. Hopefully the plumbers grease will add an extra two years of life. I think the job could have been substantially easier if the gate valve could have been 1/8 to 1/4 inches off the basement floor. It would have at least saved time getting the two lower nuts off and on again. It's tricky for sure. I'm considering doing a short video with the pics and doing a voice-over to describe the challenges. In some of the pictures you can see what I believe is the grey tank sensor board in the background. Be careful with tools around the sensor, it could be damaged and work even less affective than it already does. I used a hammer as leverage to separate the grey tank side of the valve with the main black tank pipe. On my TT many of the electrical wire bundles were between the hull and the main drain pipe, preventing movement. I was however able to lift the bundles up to relieve some of the pressure on the drain pipe.

A small chisel helped to wedge it up a tad bit.

I hope Oliver lifts this up off the floor even 1/4". He'll, I'd be happy with 1/8".

Funny you should ask. Still trying. The bottom bolts are right on the basement floor. TIGHT, very! No curse words yet, but no promises. I tried to shim under the pipe, but man it would budge. So, slow going with big man fingers.

While considering to replace my grey tank seal, I found a lose spare part, a pex fitting end/stop. LOL. Been there's likely since 2016. Not something I want rolling around with electrical connections. Does have a brass crimper and the brass connector. Also finger-checked all my electrical connections under the driver's side bed to ensure everything is still snug.

Do you think the newer windows are a better design than the old? I know you may not have touched the old ones before, as I have not seen the new. But I will need new windows eventually and I'm sure they'll be a different design.

Great tips, thanks. I also have used the silicone spray before just to allow windows to slide nicely.

My tire shop did say these stems are rated for the 90 PSI Michelins. But I'm not an expert in stems... and will never be close to 90 PSI on an Oliver.

Thanks. I also posted the entire lineup of these tires a few posts back in this thread. I had the tires inflated to 50 lbs. But even that seems high for these tires and my Oliver. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=26016&key=7584a7c5c8aa611b54b4492d5c7eddeb

Well, here are the Michelin Agilis CrossClimate tires. They look like tires. 😂 No shine on them yet. And I lost my metal stems. Darn it. They were out. These are longer too. I don't like it.

Although my quickie front jack stand box looks like crap (version 1.0), I'm going to do something to it that I have not seen any of you mention in the forums. So, you'll have to stop by camp site G28 to see it. I did sand it down some and stained. Oh, the suspense of it all.

Too bad they're upside down in the pic!

Unfortunately we were not on level ground, otherwise I would have done at least one side at a time. But, it worked out. New shoes are on Wayfinder.

Next time I just take the tires off and drop them off. Oy. Like some here have mentioned they really don't have all the necessary good equipment to reach that high into the frame. I marked and told they guy where to jack, but he ended up jacking right in the spring connection point. And he even said he didn't want to do that. Shaking head. So, if this can be a somewhat common issue at certain tire shop locations, the height problem that is, I wonder if Oliver could weld on specific jack plates that drop down from the primary frame, about two inches. That way there is never a question from where to jack. Thoughts?

In 1 hour I go to the tire shop to get a new tires have marked what I think is the best place for jack points. Based off of your pictures. My 2016 doesn't appear to have extra metal under the frame, but these points match your descriptions. I've also noted potential damage to propane lines on the passenger side.

Thank you Nancy for sharing. I'll check out the book.

Thanks, I will let him know. And he has considered Etsy, but it's very competitive. He's done some great pencil sketches for our office over the years. I'm hoping he comes up with a comic-like sketch. Much like these. Also some of his beautiful cards. Again, he's considering doing something with this after retirement. I think he needs a "push". But that's me. I'm not sorry to overload you with his work. I think he needs encouragement. This is all I could find my my photo album. I know I have more. He's been getting really good with the water colors works. I think he started doing water colors about a year ago, maybe a bit longer. We'll be going camping again in the Oliver soon. He's gone once with me, but I got sick and we cut the trip short. Maybe we'll do a mountains trip to NC or something. This sketch of the skinny guy with prices tags on all his hiking gear is me back in 2003. LOL He did the cardinal from a photo I took last year.

I'm really surprised at how stable the front jack is now, even with the rear jacks up. With a 9 inch box, the front jacks is not extended that much and does not wobble much at all.

My buddy did this from memory, so don't judge too harshly. LoL He's working towards something, of what I'm unsure.

I may have gone overboard purchasing the one over $100, but I'll now have the cheap one and better one from which to compare. I'll update here if I even remember this thread in a couple weeks. LOL I've been eye-balling that large Bosch unit for some time, but other expenses keep coming up, like stupid medical bill. Errgggg.

BLUF: I LOVE Induction cooktops. I'm camping solo often right now and I really don't want to fuss with my Black Stone griddle, if it's only me. Too much to clean up if it's only me. So I'm going to take a Duxtop induction cooktop with me to the rally. I have a single burner in the house right now that gets used a great deal. It's great for the price of $77. It's the lower version of this one, which I just ordered maybe for Wayfinder TT. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLR0ET8?smid=A2EPN08Z0FPLG4&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1 There are 10 settings, 1 to 10. I used my "Kill-a-Watt" meter to measure electrical useage. When the cooktop is on setting 5, where the unit starts at when turned on, it boils water slower, but only uses appox. 900 Watts. Slower meaning as fast as a normal electric stovetop. On setting 10 it only uses 1400 watts ('ish). I rarely go about setting 8 from which to boil quickly. Bacon and eggs are normally on 1.5 to 3 for short periods. I think I'll like this much better outdoors in nice weather. I have 4 x lead acid batteries equaling 324 AHs, so 160 Amp Hrs useable. I should be fine. I will test out in the drive way this evening to be sure. I need to "exercise" my batteries anyway. You know, out with the old, stale electrons and in with the new. 😉 This one pictured is not good for LARGE pots. The plastic edge tends to melt a bit, but only for very large pots. The cooktop linked above has no plastic edge, but is nearly twice the cost. I'll see what's best for the baby Ollie.

@topgun2 do you think my jack came from Oliver or was replaced by the first owner? Thanks!

My friend is a pretty good artist, he does greeting cards for holidays and such. He's working on some ideas for me. I was thinking of making a custom T-shirt with my hull number. This is his first attempt and is done with water colors. Maybe too much for a shirt.