Wayfinder

April 3

As I will need to upgrade my truck soon to a 3/4 or 1-ton, to carry more parts & tools, I was confirming that most folks do not use any sway controller these days with the Elite II, when not using the Andersen WDH.

I went through some old 2016 & 2019 threads, and that was the gist I got out of them.

Thanks,

April 3

@Jls Your question got me thinking. I do that once a month. 😉

How do you place your heat trace within the hull?

I might like your idea over mine, but it was fun to research and geek out about.

My idea was, at first - WARNING: Lots of bla bla from AI research 😞

I might consider using 12v Ceramic heater(s)? While in my driveway in GA on the coldest of days, I use two of those silver-looking clamp-on utility lamps with 60 watt bulbs in them. On lamp next to the water pump under bunk, and one under dinette facing the front of the camper, or towards the black tank area of bathroom. I've not yet had any issues in the camper.

I might consider, and would be geeky-fun to try, using a Kat's Heaters Ceramic Interior Heater with Fan - 300 Watt - 12V, Part Number: KH37500 from eTrailer.com, or something similar. These have a 150w and 300w settings. I asked my uncle AI (Claude) for output estimates since I have four fairly new Lifetime 6v AGMs in my old trailer, 220 AH usable. How long would one of those heaters last on both a sunny day and with no sun. I have 380 watts of solar.

Down below, I also asked: Compared to a 60watt incandescent bulb plugged into AC, what kind of heat might that put out?

Answer: A 60W incandescent bulb is, in a very real sense, mostly a heat generator that also produces light — about 95% of its energy becomes heat, only ~5% becomes visible light.

BLUF: The Takeaway

The 150W heater puts out about 2.5× more heat than a 60W bulb
The 300W heater puts out about 5× more heat than a 60W bulb
A 60W bulb is roughly equivalent to a very modest hand warmer in terms of room heating ability

This are some non-verified results:

4 × 220Ah 6V Lifeline AGMs
Config: 2S/2P → 12V, 440Ah total
50% SOC = 220Ah usable

60W Incandescent Bulb as a Heater

Effective heat output: ~57W of actual heat
BTU/hr: ~195 BTU/hr
The glass surface can reach 200–260°C (roughly 400–500°F) — hot enough to burn skin on contact
The air warming effect in a room is modest, but in a small enclosed space (like a chicken coop or a closet), people have actually used bulbs as supplemental heat

150W Heater

Heat output: ~512 BTU/hr
Air temperature near the outlet: roughly 50–65°C (120–150°F)
Practical use: Takes the chill off a very small enclosed space — great for a car cabin, a small tent, or under a desk. It won't meaningfully heat a room.
Space it can handle: ~15–25 sq ft (roughly the interior of a car)

300W Heater

Heat output: ~1,024 BTU/hr
Air temperature near the outlet: roughly 60–80°C (140–175°F)
Practical use: Can comfortably warm a car interior or a small enclosed cabin/van space. Still not enough for a full room.
Space it can handle: ~25–50 sq ft

Important Notes

12V power source matters: A 300W heater draws 25 amps at 12V — this is a heavy load. Make sure your battery, wiring, and fuse can handle it.
Insulation is everything: In a well-insulated camper, a 300W heater can get quite cozy. In a poorly insulated space, even 300W will struggle.
These heaters are best thought of as comfort heaters, not primary heating solutions for large spaces.

Current Draw

Heater	Watts	Amps @ 12V
150W	150W	12.5A
300W	300W	25A

Runtime to 50% SOC

Heater	Usable Ah	Draw	Raw Math	Real-World Est.
150W	200Ah	12.5A	~16 hrs	~13–14 hrs
300W	200Ah	25A	~8 hrs	~6.5–7 hrs

The real-world figure is lower due to:

Peukert effect — AGMs lose some effective capacity under sustained load
Inverter/wiring losses if applicable (~5–10%)
Cold temps — AGM capacity drops in cold weather, which is exactly when you need heat most 🙃

Solar Reality on a Cold Sunny Day

380W rated panels in cold, clear conditions: roughly 75–85% output = ~285–320W realistic
Flat roof-mounted panels on a highway aren't perfectly angled to the sun, but clear sky and cool temps largely compensate
Call it a conservative ~285W average while moving

Net Power Balance with Solar

Heater   Solar In   Heater Draw   Other Loads (~20W)   Net
150W   ~285W 150W 20W +115W (charging!)
300W   ~285W 300W 20W ~-35W (tiny draw)

What using Solar Means Practically

150W heater — you're essentially running it completely free, and still slowly charging your bank while driving. Nearly a wash even on a cloudier day.

300W heater — virtually break-even. A slight net drain, but so small it's almost negligible. On a really bright stretch you'll be net positive, on a shadier stretch slightly negative.

For Protecting Water Lines Specifically

This is a low-load task — you don't need to heat the whole camper, just keep the hull above freezing. A 150W heater on low (if it has settings) or even a small 40–60W pipe heating cable would do the job, meaning your solar would be comfortably net positive all day.

Bottom Line

With 380W of solar on a cold sunny travel day, a 150W heater is essentially free to run and your batteries will likely end the drive in better shape than they started. The 300W is break-even. This is exactly the use case solar excels at — offsetting a modest continuous load during daylight hours.

March 31

I asked my Uncle AI (Claude) about methods and solutions. So I do not bore you, here's the final paragraph from Claude.ai.

The biggest bang-for-buck combo is Brave + uBlock Origin + DuckDuckGo — takes about 10 minutes to set up and eliminates the vast majority of tracking and ads most people encounter.

March 23

Here are recommended products by Will. He loves EPOCH and Victron.

March 21

@jd1923 and everyone, thanks for the tire information. I've updated my text-base tables to include the ST235/80R16, from my January 20th post above. I was amazed at the weight capacity as such low pressure. Hopefully the text-base tables are also more search-friendly.

I'm still an Michelin LT lover, with the 16", but in 8 to 10 more years if I have not changed them out again, I will certainly consider putting on good ST tires, 16 inch.

The old Goodyear Marathon ST tires used to be garbage from what I heard, but they have since fixed them with the Endurance. Not sure what years they were referred to as "China bombs". Since the Endurance started production in 2017 (research indicates), they've been much better.

I run my tires at around 50 PSI travel temps.

March 21

Sounds like a new inspection item to put on my list.

Thanks all for sharing.

March 17

If it's as bad as it appears, I hope they (BB) don't wait for someone to get hurt or worse, die, from a battery fire.

What a shame.

March 15

@David and Gail @jd1923 or anyone who fixed their own battery box - have you put significant miles on their Ollie and re-inspected your repair work on the battery box support? I will be doing nearly 1,000 miles in the next two weeks going down to Silver Springs for another Egg rally. I'll try to remember to inspect my own handy work to see how it holds up. I tried marking the wet bolts with a metal market, but mostly just made a mess. I will still be able to peak down and see if anything moved.

Cheers,

March 15

A couple folks asked for a more generic, multi-forum search tool. This is what I came up with, it's not Oliver Pretty, but works great. Now you can add or remove specific forums which meet all your camping forum needs. As a starting point, I added Oliver, a trucks forum, motor cycles, and to pay for all your retirement toys, an investors forum. LOL

Change as you wish and reset back to defaults when needed. Or edit the HTML file yourself and tinker with it.

Simply download zip file, extract HMTL file, and open in your favorite browser. Should just work. Have not figured out yet how to get it to play nice on an iPad.

FYI:
@Hokieman @Ollie-Haus

forums-search-tool-v1.1.html.zip

Posted March 13 · March 13

This topic has been locked as this original user and both posts have been AI-generated. Senior Moderators have been notified for further action.

March 10

Thanks @jd1923 for the links. I've been wanting to order one of these privacy screens for a while. I have a Fiamma F45S (the best), so I ordered the 14',3" screen, but the 9 foot version for more space. We'll see how it goes. It was on sale and I used my Amazon points, so bam, only $50.

Dulepax RV Awning Sun Shade Screen with Zipper 9'X14'3'' -Second Generation RV Awning Shade Screen Significantly Improves Shadew and Privacy.Universal, Awning Screen for RV Camper with Complete Kits

March 8

I've had my pre-owned Elite II (2016) since 2021. And I interact with many other Oliver owners at rallies, such as Oliver rallies as well as general "egg" rallies, fiberglass rallies. Those are the best!

I don't have much in the ways of upgraded electronics, but here is what I "think" I know. Maybe someone else will agree or not.

From what I've heard, hardly anyone stays with the heavy, low-powered AGM batteries. Which I do have even today. I would recommend at least going up the 390AH lithium batteries, which will include the 3000 Watt Inverter. I would think, but not sure, it would make for an easier upgrade path in the future to larger lithiums if needed.

I also do not have a compost toilet, but would like one by default, but also not worth my time and money to convert what I have.

If NOT storing the camper inside or under cover, consider not having the "bulb seals" installed under the awning housing. They trap too much tree junk and makes it much more difficult to clean the roof. They can always be added later if you don't like a little rain dribble coming down the sides of the camper.

If you think you'll do a good bit of desert camping, I would get the extra awning, otherwise, save the weight & money and any other hassles that may come with more electronic equipment.

These is only my opinions. Like ears, we all have them. LOL

Good luck.

P.S. No matter what you order, it will be the best trailer you can purchase. Just remember, it's still an earthquake on four wheels with all standard RV parts & components. Things will break, but you'll seldom ever need to worry about the frame or body falling apart or leaking. Also this site will be your best bet for quick answers and how-tos.

March 2

Very kind of you @Geronimo John, thanks!

@xdr I'm not sure how the previous postings have been interpreted by you, but well I hope. Personally, as someone who JUST upgraded his ancient 2016 original lesser springs with Alcan springs, I don't think you will have to worry about leaf springs for several years to come - if you purchase a new trailer. Those newer heavy springs and axles will do very well for you with, "hopefully", worry-free travels. And please do travel. There's really no better travel trailer on the market. Is it perfect? No, it's a rolling earthquake. Things will break. This is the place to get help & answers when needed, and Oliver Support of course. 😉

For those folks purchasing used trailers, like I did in 2021, there were some upgrades to be done.

Good luck and let this awesome group of enthusiasts know if you have any further questions.

Cheers,

March 1

Busy day on my Ollie,

First: If you fixed your battery box support by yourself, you are a stud and have more patience than me.

My buddy came over to lend a hand and it saved me at least 45 minutes and several choice words, I'm sure.

It's fixed and is now WAY better than it ever was - since it only had a single bolt and no nut for.... who knows how long - likely years.

We also used a bottle jack and some 1" wood planks underneath the jack to support it. I did NOT want to crack the grey tank - major concern. But thankfully nearly all the weight held by the jack was where the support bar was also sitting.

We used a C-Clamp to straighten up the two bars a bit, not perfectly, but where I felt comfortable.
Drilled a new hole and added the same bolt as the original, I actually had in the garage. I was ready with larger stainless steel bolts and nuts, but ended up not using in the end.
Used lock tight on both and cranked down on stuff. Also have lock washers and flat washers where appropriate.
I will mark the nuts with a metal marker and keep an eye on them.

No more internal axle brake wires.

Also found the issue with my brakes - thread updated here:

March 1

The weather finally cooperated with me today and I fixed a few things on the camper. The last thing fixed was the replacement of the front axle brake wire.

Do you think this could have been a problem with my trailer brakes? 🤣

No test drive yet, but I suspect we will no longer have issues with intermittent brakes on the trailer.

February 28

That's also my project for tomorrow with my buddy. We'll do a buddy breakfast, hardware store, make metal shavings, then drink. LOL

Thanks for the details on the bolt & nut @jd1923 A good place for me to start.

February 26

@jd1923 if I can get a weekend that's not freezing and I'm not working, I'd love to get started on that fix. I agree with everything you said.

February 25

10 hours ago, topgun2 said:

I apologize for the thread drift - but - those battery slide tray stops are interesting. Cheap, easy to remove/replace and appear to be effective.

Bill

I was wondering if anyone would notice those. The latch is still in working order, but I know many trays with a single latch would sheer off. Those blocks of oak wood with two screws in each have been there since 2021. I think Jason Essary even mentioned them when he saw them, and how they seem to work well. LOL

You have a keen eye Bill. You win the prize for spotting them.

February 24

8 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I suggest Nylok nuts and washers, no loctite needed. First do the lift as @David and Gail has showed above. Drill a second hole, top of slot, hand tight both bolts.

Also, the angle of your two support beams seems greater than in other pics. The base looks off angle (notice angle of base not square with floor in your first picture). Check below where it should be welded to the frame.

I was thinking the same thing as you JD. However, I am not confident, no matter what I do, even multiple bolts, that my home-brew fix will hold up to the weight of four AGMs above, with road bumps. I'm no metal guy but I'm thinking of an adjustable solution. Something like this device, (only an example and quick search). https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-lifting-leveler?country=US&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V91190&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17424410624&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtfXMBhDzARIsAJ0jp3C2O8eZqs9M8M7CpmGG4oAKjWuDowPNrbrKNJUMh9-A2esKafqTJ6IaAlxpEALw_wcB

I will notify Oliver Service so they know of the issue and see what they suggest as well. It's best they have proper metrics for future improvements.

Cheers,

February 23

Looks like I have been very lucky with this battery box support issue. One, I only have a single bolt with no nut in sight. No real evidence it ever hat a nut, but I'm sure it did. The bolt has been bottomed out on the hand-cut slock for what appears to be forever. From all appearance, from outside and in, the box is still fairly in the spot it was from day one. I see no signs of separation. That is likely due to the fact that the bolt bottomed out on the slot and really could not come out of the hole.

I will put double nuts, with Loctite, on the support beam this weekend. If anyone sees any issues I do not, let me know.

I downsized the pics, but should be large enough to zoom in as needed. Also, I'm not sure why my pics have been uploading with such crappy quality. It's not what they look like on my computer. Might try another program to edit.

PS. Replacing all pictures.

\

February 23

Well crud... and I got lucky. I just checked my camper for the battery box separation and support issue. The box seems fine, and the single bolt that I do see, upon a quick inspection at night, revealed there is no nut on the bolt. So I will do a detailed inspection in the daytime and find a nut for that bolt.

Thanks for posting this information! Great job guys!!!

February 22

On 5/27/2024 at 5:58 PM, DavePhelps said:

I just "resealed" my fender flares! Strictly an aesthetic decision! I think it looks much better. But certainly not necessary.

Dave

@DavePhelps I see it's been close to two years since you have "resealed" the fender flares on your Ollie. Not sure if you have logged what you had used. I might have missed what exactly you used on them. I failed to log THAT one maintenance item when I "re-caulked" (or whatever), but I'm not happy with how much road dirt and rain-run-off dirt absorbs into any material which has ever been used on the fender flares, by OTT or others. I have even considered painting over whatever material is used in the fender flares to see how they resist dirt absorption. Seems excessive, but 🤷‍♂️...

Has your exterior sealant held up well to resist dirt penetration? Which makes that area look "un-sat" or "a no-go" as we used to say in the Army.

Thanks!

February 20

19 hours ago, carnivore said:

Does anyone have a source or make & model for the battery door gasket material?

That would be a great part number to keep in my parts list. I'd also be interested in this answer if you find out @carnivore. My seals will be showing age more and more now that they're 10 years old.

February 17

1 hour ago, John and Debbie said:

We noticed that also and had some movement of items in the trailer in the first few hundred miles. All has settled in now and we like how it rides.

John

Thanks John for the feedback. That's what I was hoping would happen. It was sort of cool to see the black sealant squeezing out between the leafs when I did the final snug-up of U-Bolts. Just interesting.

February 17

I did a final torque of the U-bolts after 200 miles and the nuts only needed 1 to 3 quarter turns.

I must say though, like others noted before me, I did have some minor.... "disruptions" (not damage) inside the trailer after that 200 miles - never seen before disruptions. I did have a rear upper cabinet door open for the first time ever, but at the same time, I noticed that the latch was free-floating on the panel and on all three rear panels. They were obviously lose before the trip, so they are snugged up now. Add that to the annual inspection list.

Also for the first time ever, I had a bottle of salsa open up inside the fridge. No glass broken. So the bottom of the fridge must have been very bumpy to unscrew a lid. I will inspect plumbing area and electronics soonest. (updated: all good so far)

Why do I mention this? Well, I'm thinking, and this is just me, so you do you, but I should have removed that lower/smallest 5th plate. Let's face it, that thicker steel is not going to break easily, especially with the second leaf being so extra long. But, oh well, I have 5-leafs now - all good. I'll just ensure things are buttoned up tighter. I can carry more alcohol and steaks now too.

Overall, I did notice a HUGE difference with driving over bridges and not-so-perpendicular railroad tracks. The camper did not rock back and forth nearly as much as with the 3500 pound, ten year old, springs.

4-Leaf: 2250 x 4 = 9,000 lbs (just my recommendation after 200 miles - just things to consider - others here have only used 4-leafs)
5-leaf: 2750 x 4 = 11,000 lbs

Profiles

Forums

Posts posted by Wayfinder

60W Incandescent Bulb as a Heater

150W Heater

300W Heater

Important Notes

Current Draw

Runtime to 50% SOC

Solar Reality on a Cold Sunny Day

Net Power Balance with Solar

What using Solar Means Practically

For Protecting Water Lines Specifically

Bottom Line

Important Information