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Wayfinder

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Posts posted by Wayfinder

  1. On 4/26/2023 at 9:04 AM, John E Davies said:

    I feel for you. This comes easily to me because I was an aircraft A&P…. Please post your location as part of your signature. You need to visit an off grid RV solar installer *specialist*. Here is some reading.

    https://battlebornbatteries.com/rv-or-boat-lithium-battery-installers/

    https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6629-how-to-find-happiness-with-lifepo4-lithium-ion-batteries-solacity-article/

    I would not hesitate to go here (no personal experience). They are in Colorado and can do the installation in a couple of days. Read the reviews near the bottom…..

    https://www.rvoffgridsolar.com/

    I am very happy with my choice of components, scroll through my links page for ideas. If you do not use the microwave a lot and don’t want to run AC, 200 amp hrs is plenty. If you want to run a compressor fridge go with at least 300 AH. Make sure that they add some extra ventilation for dead-end compartments! Oliver does not do this! It all depends on your camping style and where you do it. It will be costly but if your batteries are toast, it makes sense as an upgrade and it adds value to the trailer.

    High end RV manufacturers are joining in. For example the Cirrus truck camper comes with a standard single 100 AH Battle Born. Here is their (power user) option:

    IMG_1636.thumb.jpeg.d13dcd6ca99c5ddd941315cd3dd68ea0.jpeg
     

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    Thanks @John E Davies , without ever touching them before, I love the Battleborn solution. I almost missed your suggestion, but just now saw it as I updated this thread. I've been trying to be more active here as I'm finally able to get out and camp this year. Hope to meet many of you at the rally. 

  2. Well, taking some advice from @Geronimo John and/or @SeaDawg and making some extra leveling & clocking pieces along with non-slip material as a ground base.  

    Now that I'm more prepared with 2x6s and X-chocks, I'll never be on a sloping campsite again. 😂

    They might be able to help someone else out, someday. 

    Heading out to Petersburg Campground this weekend. What an awesome campground. I'm lucky I got in on a weekend. 

    This is another reason to keep a small 24" camper. Americans are going crazy with all the big rigs so they can't get in the all the sites. 

    PXL_20230503_232105310.jpg

    PXL_20230503_232632615.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. Ten years for PERFECT looking tires seem very reasonable, but, like so many have said here and else where, we just can't see what's going on under the tread.  Dang it!  :classic_angry:

    I better not hit something on the road to the OTT rally with my new tires.  I could have done that with my old ones and felt okay about it.  LOL

    In regards to rim sizes going away, nothing will happen over night, and I suspect we'll be able to get 15" and 16" in decades to come.  I have NO doubt. :classic_smile:

    • Like 4
  4. Once again I would like to thank @Hokieman for putting me onto this thread and everyone who participated on this thread.  I had missed it when you guys are actively creating it. 

    With my new Michelin Agilis Crossclimates going on the trailer next week, they will still be brand spanking new by the time I make it to the rally, let the inspection begin. 😉 I have doubts that I will be able to tell any difference from my original 2015 Michelin LTs, while driving.  It sounds like I will be just fine staying within 45 to 55 PSI, no matter how heavy I load the trailer and maintaining 7000 lbs, unless I load up with too much good Lagar.   🙂 

    Many of us continue to learn from these forums.  Thank you all!  It's really appreciated by me.

     

    image.thumb.png.2cf712ba9d44f3082bc6922df184a7e6.png

    • Like 6
  5. So I've ordered my Michelin Agilis CrossClimate #72022 (225/75R16)  If I estimate my OE-II is approximately 6000 with a light load for camping, is this chart saying that 40 PSI per tire can handle the trailer load, at 1650 lbs x 4 wheels = 6600 lbs total?  Am I reading that right?  

    40 PSI seems low to me. My current original Michelin LTs I typically run around 55-60 with a light load.

    What would you experts do here?

    Michelin-Agilis-Climate-Control-Inflation-Chart-for-RV-Usage.pdf

  6. I'm still thinking about this.  I really don't like the Bulb seal solution at all. I'm thinking tree junk and heavy winds. 

    Maybe nothing will meet everyone's needs, because we're not "Borg", but I'm going to see what seems to work best for me.  Right now, I'll try without the Bulb seal or anything else.  Than see how it is to sit under the canopy in a good rain storm.  I would suspect my sitting area would get wetter faster, on the ground and under a mat, if I have one laid out.

     

  7. @Patriot Can you tell how big those holes are in the awning mounts?  Maybe take a drill bit to them to see?!  We don't want people making to large of a hole and compromising the integrity of the mounts. 

    Would a quick picture help see what it looks like?  

    Do you know if Oliver has made that their new standard, or did you ask for them to drill the weep holes in the mounting brackets?

    Pulling off and cleaning that Bulb seal was a PAIN.

     

  8. Wow, I'm pooped.  Even with 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (08984), a 3M Scratch Brite sponge, and flat razor, it was a "BLEEP" to get the sticky residue off the hull.  Thankfully the Bulb seal was only sticking well to half the trailer.  Still took me over an hour to scrub-down and get clean.  There's still grime to pressure wash off, but I think I will like it better than having the seal on the trailer. Time will tell.  I have the new seal on the way, if I change my mind. I have already installed a EZE Gutter Guard over the door, just to keep the door seal, what's left of it, drier. I'm not sure if I will have time to pull off the door and reseal before the rally.  Who wants to help?  LOL 😜

    I'm mean, it's not like raising a barn!  🙂 

    Pro tip:  Putting the Gutter guard in the dryer for 15 minutes with some rags quickly softens up the rubber to make it go around curves easier.  I had no sun that day.

    removed-bulb-seal.jpg

    Old-Bulb-Seal2.jpg

    • Like 5
  9. I just ordered from Oliver, what they call the Bulb seal (18 ft ~ $66).  That large rubber-like material that goes directly under the awning mount/housing.

    My bulb seal has been leaking in some areas, especially over the entry door; and since the door needs resealing to the hull it's time to replace.  However.....

    I'm still not convinced I want the bulb seal there at all.  Someone on the forums mentioned they removed it due to the gathering of tree junk.  I'm considering taking my old one off and seeing what I think of it.  Yesterday I did place a small EZE Gutter Guard strip over my door frame, to divert heavy rain water from hitting the top of the door frame.  Not sure I'll get to resealing the door frame before the rally.  I'm not retired, dang it.

     

     

    Old-Bulb-Seal.jpg

    Door-gutter.jpg

    • Like 2
  10. Well, my tire shop also just recommended the Michelin Agilis Cross Climate LT (225/75R/16) quoted at $261 each.

    Man, I HATE to get rid of what I have (Michelin LT), they look BRAND NEW!  But they do have a year date of 15 on them.  What a shame, and waste.

    I just don't want to take a chance though.

    I'm going to have to put way more mileage on them then the previous owner.  I promise myself!   LOL

     

    Michelin-Agilis-CrossClimate-tires.pdf

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