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Wayfinder

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Posts posted by Wayfinder

  1. 2 hours ago, routlaw said:

    Watching this video reminds me of how much I detest these windows, my biggest Oliver complaint by far.

    Just went through this on my own windows yesterday but rain kept me from doing the last one. Maybe later today. I do want to reiterate what Steve stated above, it is very easy to remove those rubble glides from the tracks. What I have always done is to pull the window while pulling the rubber glide simultaneously which only takes a couple of strokes to remover it completely. I also take the top part out in order to thoroughly wash and clean the rubber glide. Normally the sliding window should remove easily after that though it may take a bit of maneuvering up and down to release from the tracks. The screen also needs to come out as well, just push down against the springs (bottom of screen) then the top should release from the upper track. This allows for a much easier and thorough cleaning of all parts, rubber glides, track and windows. Figure about an hour for each window doing it this way.

    In conclusion I also spray each of those rubber tracks with silicone lubricant both sides and doing this allows for very easy installation using the same method as removal. Just get the rubber glide started a few inches then push both window and glide together, pull the window back while keeping the glide in place. Repeat as often as needed until the glide clearly is past the window on opposite side from the feed at which point you can grab the rubber glide and pull it to its destination. 

    Great idea using the wand for flushing!

    Great tips, thanks. I also have used the silicone spray before just to allow windows to slide nicely. 

  2. 7 minutes ago, routlaw said:

    You will be ok without the metal valve stems unless you want to inflate to max PSI of 80, for pressures in the 40's-50's those rubber should be fine. Agreed though with longer rubber ones they tend to flex too much.

    My tire shop did say these stems are rated for the 90 PSI Michelins. But I'm not an expert in stems... and will never be close to 90 PSI on an Oliver. 

  3. 1 hour ago, Galway Girl said:

    Here's the link to the load PSE/Load tire inflation chart for those  Michelin Agilis Cross Climates

    https://tirepressure.com/lt225-75r16-tire-pressure

    Agilis Loading Table:

    image.thumb.png.0456c4eb2ce6dfe4caf0b12e20296e11.png

    The Agilis has a bit higher payloads in the table than the original Michelin LTX M/S that came on my 2019...so they could be a good replacement.

    Thanks for your posts.

    Craig

     

     

    Thanks. I also posted the entire lineup of these tires a few posts back in this thread. I had the tires inflated to 50 lbs. But even that seems high for these tires and my Oliver.  

    https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=26016&key=7584a7c5c8aa611b54b4492d5c7eddeb

    • Thanks 2
  4. 44 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

    Wayfinder:  I like your chock set between the wheels.  I typically put them outside of the axle sets.  Yea, a tomato/tomatto discussion.

      image.png.b8469f8a9829c1e762f927815fd94178.png

     

    Your way though would require me to bend over just once to place both of them.  YEA

    With a "tag line" between them, it would allow me to easily allow carry two sets of two in one hand.  That saves travel time box to wheels and back for a second run to the other side.  YEA X2

    Thanks for the picture!

    GJ

    Too bad they're upside down in the pic!

     

  5. 2 hours ago, John E Davies said:

    Use your onboard  stabilizers AKA jacks to lift all the tires clear of the ground, have the store tech place his hydraulic ones under each axle. 

    This isn’t exactly rocket science. Lots of us do this, but never ever crawl underneath without additional supports.

    But it is easier to just take the wheels down there.

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

     

    Unfortunately we were not on level ground, otherwise I would have done at least one side at a time. But, it worked out. New shoes are on Wayfinder.  

    • Like 1
  6. Next time I just take the tires off and drop them off. Oy. Like some here have mentioned they really don't have all the necessary good equipment to reach that high into the frame. I marked and told they guy where to jack, but he ended up jacking right in the spring connection point. And he even said he didn't want to do that. 

    Shaking head. 

    So, if this can be a somewhat common issue at certain tire shop locations, the height problem that is, I wonder if Oliver could weld on specific jack plates that drop down from the primary frame, about two inches. That way there is never a question from where to jack. 

    Thoughts?

  7. In 1 hour I go to the tire shop to get a new tires have marked what I think is the best place for jack points. Based off of your pictures. My 2016 doesn't appear to have extra metal under the frame, but these points match your descriptions. I've also noted potential damage to propane lines on the passenger side. 

    PXL_20230510_105837527~4.jpg

    PXL_20230510_105723059~3.jpg

    PXL_20230510_105553131~4.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  8. 3 hours ago, Nancy K. said:

    Nice artwork!  Two teens designed the cover of my book and I had specified that I wanted the trailer to look like an Ollie.  (without the name showing in the back).  I think they did a great job.

    image.thumb.jpeg.6bf03d007b6f61d1ae83dffd0c9521f9.jpeg

    Thank you Nancy for sharing.  I'll check out the book.

    • Thanks 1
    • Like 2
  9. Thanks, I will let him know.  And he has considered Etsy, but it's very competitive.  He's done some great pencil sketches for our office over the years.  I'm hoping he comes up with a comic-like sketch.  Much like these.  Also some of his beautiful cards.  Again, he's considering doing something with this after retirement.  I think he needs a "push".  But that's me.

    I'm not sorry to overload you with his work.  I think he needs encouragement.  This is all I could find my my photo album. I know I have more.  He's been getting really good with the water colors works.  I think he started doing water colors about a year ago, maybe a bit longer.

    We'll be going camping again in the Oliver soon. He's gone once with me, but I got sick and we cut the trip short.  Maybe we'll do a mountains trip to NC or something.

    This sketch of the skinny guy with prices tags on all his hiking gear is me back in 2003.  LOL

    He did the cardinal from a photo I took last year.

    Mikes-chris-Sketch-Hiking-toon.jpeg.6e2664f48fded82582721caf558fc352.jpeg

     

    Mikes-derek-sketch-hiking-toon.jpeg

    Mikes-Greeting-card-water-color-japanese.jpg

     

    Mikes-Greeting-card-winter1.jpg

    Mikes-Greeting-cards-summer.jpg

    Mikes-Greeting-cards-winter.jpg

    Mikes-joe-sketch-hiking-toon.jpeg

    Mikes-ken-sketch-hiking-toon.jpeg

    Mikes-mike-sketch-hiking-toon.jpeg

    Mikes-scott-sketch-hiking-toon.jpeg

    Mikes-Cardinal-water-color.jpg

    Mikes-Greeting-card-water-color-mountains.jpg

    • Like 4
    • Love 1
  10. 27 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

    @Wayfinder, I  have a duxtop (slightly cheaper version than yours) and an  IKEA induction burner. Love them both. Both have a clean glass/ceramic edge, no plastic guard, so easy cleanup. 

    My house is half-powered by two tesla powerwall batteries during power outages. My Bosch induction cooktop is not on the panel powered by the batteries. The two little induction burners work just fine as replacements, on separate circuits. Also great as "keep warm" burners for parties. I love the timer function on the cheap duxtop. 

    My college roommate and her daughter were here for a week visiting this spring. Both are gourmet cooks, and gas stove aficionados. Though skeptical at first, they were both amazed at the quick response of my induction cooktop, and the super easy cleanup. I do use ceramabryte cooktop cleaner on all my induction cooking devices, to protect and keep like new.

    I like smooth bottom, lighter weight conductive steel or stainless pans. My favorites are enameled steel, IKEA 365, and a smalk nordicware spun steel wok skillet. 

    I think you'll really enjoy the duxtop. Read the manual a few times, carefully,  and youll find it's really fun, easy, and controlled, using all the features.

    This is the cheap one I bought:

    Duxtop 1800W Portable Induction Cooktop Countertop Burner, Silver 8120MC/BT-180G3 https://a.co/d/h5eo8vi

     

    I bought a used/Like new version (probably a return) for around $40.

     

    I may have gone overboard purchasing the one over $100, but I'll now have the cheap one and better one from which to compare.  I'll update here if I even remember this thread in a couple weeks.  LOL

    I've been eye-balling that large Bosch unit for some time, but other expenses keep coming up, like stupid medical bill.  Errgggg. 

     

    • Like 2
  11. BLUF:  I LOVE Induction cooktops.

    I'm camping solo often right now and I really don't want to fuss with my Black Stone griddle, if it's only me.  Too much to clean up if it's only me.  So I'm going to take a Duxtop induction cooktop with me to the rally.  I have a single burner in the house right now that gets used a great deal. It's great for the price of $77.  It's the lower version of this one, which I just ordered maybe for Wayfinder TT. 
     https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLR0ET8?smid=A2EPN08Z0FPLG4&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1

    There are 10 settings, 1 to 10.  I used my "Kill-a-Watt" meter to measure electrical useage. When the cooktop is on setting 5, where the unit starts at when turned on, it boils water slower, but only uses appox. 900 Watts. Slower meaning as fast as a normal electric stovetop. 

    On setting 10 it only uses 1400 watts ('ish).  I rarely go about setting 8 from which to boil quickly.  Bacon and eggs are normally on 1.5 to 3 for short periods.

    I think I'll like this much better outdoors in nice weather. I have 4 x lead acid batteries equaling 324 AHs, so 160 Amp Hrs useable. I should be fine.  I will test out in the drive way this evening to be sure.  I need to "exercise" my batteries anyway.  You know, out with the old, stale electrons and in with the new. 😉 

    This one pictured is not good for LARGE pots.  The plastic edge tends to melt a bit, but only for very large pots. The cooktop linked above has no plastic edge, but is nearly twice the cost.  I'll see what's best for the baby Ollie.

    image.png.444547690a947fc739f0ea3e9514d4a9.png

    • Like 2
  12. 42 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

    I'd bet that your front jack is a replacement for the original jack that was in this location.

    When the front storage basket was introduced it was necessary to rotate the front jack in order to make rom for the basket while at the same time allow for the top of the "dog house" to be removed.  In turn - this caused the light on the front of the jack to now be shining to the side versus the front.  One way to tell if any Oliver is of the "older variety" is to look for this turned front jack.

    Bill

    @topgun2 do you think my jack came from Oliver or was replaced by the first owner?

    Thanks!

  13. My friend is a pretty good artist, he does greeting cards for holidays and such. He's working on some ideas for me. I was thinking of making a custom T-shirt with my hull number. This is his first attempt and is done with water colors.  Maybe too much for a shirt. 

    received_1274009399890312.jpeg

    • Like 10
    • Love 1
  14. I see his thread move from books to music, but I usually listen to audible and science fiction books, usually long series. I would recommend Expeditionary Force Columbus Day, which is the first book of a 14 or 15 book series. Once you make it halfway through the first book, it gets pretty funny when you meet an ancient AI who gets nicknamed Skippy. The whole series is about Joe and Skippy and fighting aliens. There are a lot of funny moments throughout the series. Not always suitable for young children. I think a movie deal is in the works as well, but let's face it. The books will always be better. 

  15. Well, I'm not sure who posted their video link to a heavy duty jack stand made from wood, but I made my own as soon as I got back from camping today.  This looks rough, and it is, but I'm letting the Gorilla Glue setup with the weight of the trailer on it as it will normally sit.  

    This is made from old reclaimed pressure-treated 2x6s, long deck screws, wood and Gorilla glue.  Once the glue is completely dry, I'll finish sanding it down to get ride of any splinters or chips and then give it a quick stain.  Why not, right? 

    My neighbor does have some extra spray paint he can give me.  I'm thinking of painting it safety ORANGESo from a distance it might look like a cheap piece of plastic. But I don't think so really.  Would be too much of an attention getter.

    This is approximately 9 inches high and around 8.5" x 11" (ish) wide/long. 

    I think it will last as long as me.  Well, longer!

    I made it so it's easy to pick up with two hands, grips/handles on both sides. With the height, it should give more stability to the front jack as it will not need to be extended nearly as much.

    I usually just used a small set of blocks as a front jack stand.  Not nearly as stable (also Pictured next to rear tire).

     

    Oliver-front-jack-stand-3.jpg

    Oliver-front-jack-stand-2.jpg

    Oliver-front-jack-stand-1.jpg

    Oliver-small-jack-stand.jpg

    PXL_20230508_114551182~2.jpg

    • Like 1
  16. Well, I'm glad I checked my spare tire.  I now know that it is smaller than the other four primary tires.  It's P215/70R16 from BF Goodrich only good for 1708 lbs @ 44 PSI.  There's really no way for any of the primary tires to fit inside the spare tire cover.  If one did, it would be VERY tight indeed.  But, added 8 lbs of air to the spare and it looks good, new even.

    I even cleaned inside, under, and around the spare cover.  Just in case the Oliver Police come knocking for a white glove inspection.  😝

     

    oliver-spare-tire-cover.jpg

    • Like 1
  17. 4 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

    @Wayfinder:  Does your mobile's hot spot work effectively when in close proximity of the antenna for a good internet connection?  Just curious...

    If I understand you correctly, yes.  Both my cell phone AND a dedicated cellular hot spot, both from Verizon, see improvements, albeit not drastic or magically drastic.  Again, if there's already a signal worth boosting.  Now I cannot speak for the improvement for all carriers, mileage may vary.  My WeBoost might only help LTE & 3G.  Newer WeBoost models, like the Drive+X "says" that all WeBoost products support 5G, but I'm not sure.  5G technology has a relatively short distance and is only line-of-site as I understand it.  Also, 5G, if very close to a large antenna is quite dangerous.  That's why it's so important for these companies to position the transmitters correctly, where humans are in the way of the signals.  So not sure if we'll see an internal antenna boost a 5G signal.  🤷‍♂️

    This weekend, here at Petersburg Campground in Appling, Georgia, I would have nearly zero Internet activity if not for the WeBoost.  I would have had to read a real book or something.  "I shutter the thought". The only book I have with me is my Security+ certification book, which I need to study for once again.  I swear I retire before I another Security+ certification... after this one.  LOL

     

    • Thanks 1
    • Like 1
  18. Yeah, from my experience, I get one, maybe two bars of improvement, BUT, ONLY if there is a decent enough signal to start with, say a half to one bar.  Can't boost zero signal.  Zero * anything is still zero.  LOL

    I pretty much have to put the phone on top of touch the internal antenna.  

    I like the idea of Star Link, but I don't camp enough for that yet.

    • Like 3
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