Steve and Cindy

Our Girard remote batteries died this weekend while camping. We had to manually shake the awnings to activate the wind sensor in order to retract. For removing the backplate, we found online somewhere that there is a tiny groove in one corner under the word "OPEN" that you can slip a screwdriver into and twist. From there it was pretty simple to pop the plate off working our way around the edges. The 2430 batteries seemed fairly secure and not slipping around, so that may be some variability between units. The 2450 is an equivalent battery that is a bit thicker, so it might be an option if the mounting slot is too loose. Replacement 2430s were actually pretty hard to find and not stocked at most locations locally. Got the last three at a Walgreens. Surprisingly, the display was actually bright with the new batteries.

I ended up ordering the exact same replacement part without the light, so hoping it will be very straightforward. I did do some gelcoat drilling for the infamous toilet flange repair, but I guess that's a story for another thread. Thanks for the tips!

For anyone who has replaced the original Maxxair model 3812 bath fan, are the screw holes in the same location on the exterior and interior? Since I have to replace my fan, I'd consider doing the LED upgrade, but I'm not really motivated enough to drill new holes.

Very nicely done! That closet is hard to figure out and this is a great solution, and well-crafted.

Sorry, I wish it was commercially available in some form. I put it together from scratch. I had been thinking for a while whether there was some existing product that could be adapted to hang below the shelf, but couldn't find anything.

It's a tight fit depth wise, but I was able to size the dimensions to provide a small amount of clearance to the plastic hangers shown in the picture. It could be scaled back a bit if just used for odds and ends, or if someone has smaller feet than my size 13's. I have about 13-14 inches of shelf depth on the left side, and the depth decreases as it follow the contour of the hull around to the right side.

We have always struggled with what to do with our shoes other than a pile at the bottom of the closet. After much thought, we came up with the idea of a rack suspended below the lower closet shelf. This is two shelves made of 1/4" MDF suspended on threaded rod, with 1/2" PVC concealing the rod and providing some stability. It is set back just far enough to allow the clothes hangers in front to move freely. As a bonus, the offset from the black vent pipe leaves just enough room to snugly tuck in the extra piece of hypervent. Looking forward to road testing it in the coming year!

Thank you! Just what I was looking for. Yes, there is a tube coming out the bottom of the hull under the vent, and it appears to snake up thorough the vent cavity and disappears somewhere inside the back of fridge. I'll have to get in two fixes on this ticket. I spent the entire weekend collecting temperature sensor data to prove that the LP mode just does not cool well at all.

While wiping down the moisture inside the Norcold prior to shutting it down for storage, I noticed this plastic tray under the fins. It has a drain hole in it, with a short plastic fitting extending toward this suspicious hole in the rear wall. Sure looks like a drain hole missing the drain hose. I'm looking for confirmation, and whether there are any tricks to fix it. I don't want to just drain straight into the hole in the wall without knowing for sure it will connect with the exterior drain hole.

Lots of good info! Happy to report that the AC has been running all afternoon in upper 90's heat with no further issues on the power side. Next time I will try setting 28. On my XC PRO 3000 it runs 5-50A. Attached is a screenshot of the Xantrex app with only the Dometic AC and the float charge running. Looks like plenty of margin to put setting 28 at 5A, but probably not as high as 10A. I don't plan on running anything else on AC power. By the way, my home circuit has no other loads. I'm running the Oliver-supplied 25 ft shore power cable directly from the outlet using a 20-30 pigtail. Voltage has been between 115-120. So I think I'm good on the shore side, but thanks for the good words on wiring safety.

Thanks, John! That seems to do the trick. I found there is an easy to use setting for max current on the Xantrex app on the phone. I haven't quite figured the mapping to the actual shore power current. The app can set it from 0-150A. By trial and error I ended up at 60A on the app, which resulted in about 9A from shore power. That's good enough for me.

The last two times I have had Hullabaloo parked in the driveway at home and connected to shore power, the breaker on my home's dedicated 20A circuit has tripped after the Dometic air conditioner runs for 5-10 minutes. It also tripped off yesterday when the air conditioner was not running. I re-started the 20A shore power feed this morning and noted that the Progressive surge protector display in the attic was bumping up around 20A. Nothing was running on A/C current in the Oliver except the Xantrex inverter/charger in charge mode. I have the 390AH Lithium package with the 3000W Xantrex, and my Dometic has the soft start. My batteries have been down to 60-80% the last few days, so the charger has been running in bulk charge mode. My theory is that the charger is drawing most of the capacity of my home's 20A circuit, and the A/C on top of that is too much. Is this a plausible theory? On previous occasions, I probably had full batteries and the charger was more in float mode. A few other possible factors: It has been very hot here, in the upper 90s and the breaker is about 20 years old, so there may be some reduced amperage capability on that circuit. Looking for any advice. Thanks!

Thanks for all the tips! I'll report back after our next trip.

We have about 10 nights under our belts in 2022 LE2 #1034 are not really sure that our Norcold is performing up to par. Our last trip was in hot dry Texas weather, low winds, and highs near 100 deg. The curbside was shady throughout the days either by trees or the awning. We were on electric full time, and kept the AC running. Trailer was very level. The fridge had been pre-chilled at home to 33 deg, the food was pre-chilled and loading was not too heavy and did not obstruct the fins (a lesson from a previous trip), and we were running it on a setting of 7 initially, later upped to 9. The fridge really struggled to keep temps below 45 deg, and spent a lot of time in the upper 40s, and this was even when keeping the door closed virtually all day. (I have a SensorPush remote thermometer - wonderful gadget!). On a prior trip with outdoor temps more like 70s-80s, we had mistakenly set the temp too warm at the start of the trip, but it never could recover cold temps. So, I'm not sure if the Norcold is just more of a Notcold by design, or if there is something I'm missing, or if this is a service call. Any suggestions out there?

I'll tack on to this thread since it includes a lot of suggestions for tracking down leaks. I have one to add. I had a small leak under the curbside window the first time it rained on us and have been trouble shooting the last week. I may have found the problem. The track that the window slides in has a black fuzzy strip that the window pane slides on. There are holes every inch or two that allow rainwater to flow underneath and out of the inner weep holes in the window frame. At the end of the black fuzzy strip near the stove there is a screw and rubber/plastic sort of grommet that serves as a stop for the window at fully open. Well this screw goes right through the bottom of that drainage channel/window track. So there are 5 ways for water to escape: the four weep holes and this screw hole. I verified that a small amount of water poured into the window track would flow out the weep holes, but also could make its way over to the screw hole and then run out underneath the window, down across the belly band, and onto the seat above the water pump area. Oliver Service said that there should have been a butyl rubber strip laid down by the window manufacturer before the screw was put in. They will be sending a rubber strip out for me to install. I’ll also assess using a dab of silicone instead. So add this to the list of potential window leak causes. I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem or if other windows have been constructed differently through the years. It seems like a bad design on the part of the window manufacturer to put a screw through the bottom of the window track that doubles as a drainage channel.