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Steve and Cindy

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    Couple

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Hull #
    1034
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Standard Floor Plan

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  1. Lots of good info! Happy to report that the AC has been running all afternoon in upper 90's heat with no further issues on the power side. Next time I will try setting 28. On my XC PRO 3000 it runs 5-50A. Attached is a screenshot of the Xantrex app with only the Dometic AC and the float charge running. Looks like plenty of margin to put setting 28 at 5A, but probably not as high as 10A. I don't plan on running anything else on AC power. By the way, my home circuit has no other loads. I'm running the Oliver-supplied 25 ft shore power cable directly from the outlet using a 20-30 pigtail. Voltage has been between 115-120. So I think I'm good on the shore side, but thanks for the good words on wiring safety.
  2. Thanks, John! That seems to do the trick. I found there is an easy to use setting for max current on the Xantrex app on the phone. I haven't quite figured the mapping to the actual shore power current. The app can set it from 0-150A. By trial and error I ended up at 60A on the app, which resulted in about 9A from shore power. That's good enough for me.
  3. The last two times I have had Hullabaloo parked in the driveway at home and connected to shore power, the breaker on my home's dedicated 20A circuit has tripped after the Dometic air conditioner runs for 5-10 minutes. It also tripped off yesterday when the air conditioner was not running. I re-started the 20A shore power feed this morning and noted that the Progressive surge protector display in the attic was bumping up around 20A. Nothing was running on A/C current in the Oliver except the Xantrex inverter/charger in charge mode. I have the 390AH Lithium package with the 3000W Xantrex, and my Dometic has the soft start. My batteries have been down to 60-80% the last few days, so the charger has been running in bulk charge mode. My theory is that the charger is drawing most of the capacity of my home's 20A circuit, and the A/C on top of that is too much. Is this a plausible theory? On previous occasions, I probably had full batteries and the charger was more in float mode. A few other possible factors: It has been very hot here, in the upper 90s and the breaker is about 20 years old, so there may be some reduced amperage capability on that circuit. Looking for any advice. Thanks!
  4. Thanks for all the tips! I'll report back after our next trip.
  5. We have about 10 nights under our belts in 2022 LE2 #1034 are not really sure that our Norcold is performing up to par. Our last trip was in hot dry Texas weather, low winds, and highs near 100 deg. The curbside was shady throughout the days either by trees or the awning. We were on electric full time, and kept the AC running. Trailer was very level. The fridge had been pre-chilled at home to 33 deg, the food was pre-chilled and loading was not too heavy and did not obstruct the fins (a lesson from a previous trip), and we were running it on a setting of 7 initially, later upped to 9. The fridge really struggled to keep temps below 45 deg, and spent a lot of time in the upper 40s, and this was even when keeping the door closed virtually all day. (I have a SensorPush remote thermometer - wonderful gadget!). On a prior trip with outdoor temps more like 70s-80s, we had mistakenly set the temp too warm at the start of the trip, but it never could recover cold temps. So, I'm not sure if the Norcold is just more of a Notcold by design, or if there is something I'm missing, or if this is a service call. Any suggestions out there?
  6. I'll tack on to this thread since it includes a lot of suggestions for tracking down leaks. I have one to add. I had a small leak under the curbside window the first time it rained on us and have been trouble shooting the last week. I may have found the problem. The track that the window slides in has a black fuzzy strip that the window pane slides on. There are holes every inch or two that allow rainwater to flow underneath and out of the inner weep holes in the window frame. At the end of the black fuzzy strip near the stove there is a screw and rubber/plastic sort of grommet that serves as a stop for the window at fully open. Well this screw goes right through the bottom of that drainage channel/window track. So there are 5 ways for water to escape: the four weep holes and this screw hole. I verified that a small amount of water poured into the window track would flow out the weep holes, but also could make its way over to the screw hole and then run out underneath the window, down across the belly band, and onto the seat above the water pump area. Oliver Service said that there should have been a butyl rubber strip laid down by the window manufacturer before the screw was put in. They will be sending a rubber strip out for me to install. I’ll also assess using a dab of silicone instead. So add this to the list of potential window leak causes. I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem or if other windows have been constructed differently through the years. It seems like a bad design on the part of the window manufacturer to put a screw through the bottom of the window track that doubles as a drainage channel.
  7. We have three and they work great. I like the rope handle idea!
  8. I was able to find a good mobile guy to fix it. I do have the Easy Start. The repair guy was up there measuring startup currents to the AC and was explaining how it improves the life of the system by greatly reducing the inrush current. So it may be a good thing even if not purchased solely to get the system to run on batteries. Basically the same story on a soft start system that I have always gotten from home A/C repairmen.
  9. Turns out it was a loose wire underneath the A/C shroud on the roof. In hindsight, I should have listened carefully for the deeper sound of the compressor kicking in. another way would have been to look at the load on Xantrex app. With just fan running it shows about 400W, and with the compressor running it jumps to 1100-1200W.
  10. For the EZE RV Rain Gutters positioned as shown in this thread, have there been any subsequent issues with getting access to re-caulk the windows?
  11. Once we got back to Texas after delivery and got a warm day, I found that my Dometic A/C was not cooling. The fan ran loud and blew air as expected, but no cool air. I have a service ticket in on it, but thought I'd throw it out here in case there is something dumb that I'm forgetting to do. Hoping to avoid a trip to a local service provider. I have tried the thermostat on high, low, and AUTO, I have it on the snowflake and set the temperature on that screen well below cabin temperature. No errors on the surge protector. Same result on shore and on 3000W inverter. Jason had me do a thermostat reset by pressing the mode and up buttons 3 seconds until the "--" appears. Did not change things. Any ideas?
  12. Thanks for the reference to the shotgun rack posting. I wouldn't have thought to look there. Really helped me understand the layout better up in the closet. It will be interesting to see where they are mounting the factory installed Taoglas antenna. My sales rep said aft over the attic, but it just seems like a bad spot signal-wise. Hoping to hear some field reports as the 2022's roll out.
  13. We were notified about a month ago that our delivery would slip from Feb 22 to Feb 28, and they are still showing Feb 28 as we are about to finalize and make the first payment. A slip toward warmer weather is not necessarily a bad thing for us.
  14. Thank you Overland and John Davies. Those are great ideas and give me a lot think about. According to the promotional materials given to me by our Oliver sales rep, the antenna is a Taoglas MK1506.AK.001, which is a low profile bolt-thru-the-roof form factor and actually has 6 cables (2x5G/4G, 3xWi-Fi, 1xGPS). I'd love to have just the antenna, but another poster here got the expected NO from Oliver on that. I like the idea of the closet. Is the ceiling in there just a single layer of outer hull, like in the attic, or would I have to get through both the inner and outer hull? Had not seriously considered a tall mast, but will take another look at postings on that subject.
  15. We got the call to finalize for our late February delivery and time to make some decisions! I'd like to have the functionality of the Cradlepoint Wireless system, but not at that price point, feature set, recurring subscription cost, and apparent reputation of Cradlepoint for not being very consumer-support-oriented. Do any of you have experience with installing any kind of antenna on the forward roof area and snaking cables internally? A rear mount above the attic would be relatively straightforward, but I'm concerned about signal blockage from the A/C unit. I'm relatively unafraid of DIY mods, but would also consider an install by Oliver Service at a later date after purchase if they would do that kind of work. These type of antennas have multiple cables which would make the snaking process more difficult - I think the Taoglas has about 5 and more advanced antennas would have even more. I have read other posts and am aware of other options like a wi-fi hotspot, but would like to get an idea of whether such an install is possible. I love being away from it all, but also love staying connected. Thanks!
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