John Welte

They don't look like the bulge acorn style. I thought that with the aluminum wheels, it's recommended to get the bulge acorn style. John

Thanks Bill. Did you swap yours out? We go in for service on October 30 so if it's advised, I may just get 24 stainless steel ones like you referenced for them to put the wheels back on the trailer. John

Speaking of those lug nuts, are they made of one metal only? I replaced all my lug nuts on my Ford Expedition since they swelled. They are made of two metals. It seems crazy to make lug nuts that way, but if Oliver also uses those types of lug nuts (for appearance, I assume), I would rather have all stainless steel lug nuts. Swollen lug nuts are just that, they're near impossible to remove. I know this is off topic. John

I got the Locknlube gun and 90° angle piece. I removed the screw on part to inspect it after doing one zerc that oozed a bit of grease at the connection point of the gun tip and the zerc. Don't do that. It removed a little washer like piece that's needed to hold onto the zerc that is in that connection area of the 90° piece. I didn't realize that it held that small piece and the 90° piece is useless without that small part. Yes, I ordered another one for $21. Did you remove the wheels or are you planning to remove them to get to the two fittings that are at the top of the Dexter assembly? Something about crawling under trailer while on stands makes me a bit nervous. John

Hi Bill, what kind of prep and paint did you use? I already am seeing some rust on my 2022 that I picked up in November. John

Bill, I have a late 2022, hull #1290. We are going back to Hohenwald in October from Oregon for annual service. We have about 4000 miles max on the trailer since getting it new. It has the EZ flex axles so I assume I am ok. We will have about 7000 miles on it when we get to Tennessee. Any advice on whether we should put grease into the zirc fittings and if so, what kind? TIA, John

"Now to rig up a 4-pin harness on the trailer to use the included lights" I bought the Yakima Stage 2 rack after putting a 2" Curt receiver on with stainless steel 316 grade for high tension use. There's a light kit that I can buy to attach to the rack so tail lights/turn indicators are visible in both the up and down position. It would be plugged into a four pin harness, but I don't know how that's done. The trailer goes to Hohenwald for service in October so may see if they can do that. If you figure out how it's done I would like to see how you did it. John

Hi all, I searched for screen door bar, but didn't find anything. I don't have much luck getting good results on the search function on the forum. Does anyone have the link to the Amazon product that some of you have for attaching a bar on the screen door for ease of opening or holding the screen door? TIA, John

I checked and that rack is approved for the back of a travel trailer. Thule also makes one that's approved. The Thule looks more substantial in my opinion. John

Thanks for your post. I thought the same thing about the forces. Abundance of caution seems like very good advice. I was thinking that the main force would come from behind the rear axle, but you also mentioned the movement at the tv hitch in the front of the trailer. I would think that those of us that use the Anderson hitch have some more moderation of movement than without the Anderson. John

It looks like you didn't get the OTT bike rack option. It looks like a secure installation to me. How do you plan to address the galvanic corrosion because of the two different metals. I wonder if the painted hitch might be enough. John

That makes sense. Thanks John

Hi all, in preparation for removing the OTT 1.25" receiver and putting a 2" one on, I took out the four pins that secure the hitch framework. It was very fast. How do you all secure that assembly from theft, especially when you have a nice bike rack attached? John

I have fenders and racks so it looks like that rack won't work. We live in Oregon. Fenders are necessary here. That was the name of the rack that OTT recommended. I think replacing the 1.25" receiver with a 2" may be my only option. John

This seems like a good solution. How is it working for you? John

I bought the OTT bike hitch for our #1290, but am having a problem finding a rack for your reasons too. It seems that all RV rated bike racks for trailers require a 2 inch receiver. I have a Thule rack bought a few years ago, but it's not RV rated. John

The chrome attachment that secures the outside hose inside is leaking. It's a hard place to hand tighten that coupling. Has anyone come up with a good tool to tighten that fixture. I was using the outside shower and I noticed water coming from the scuppers by the outside shower. I looked inside while the water was turned on and saw it leaking. John

I could or should read the manual. That makes sense to be quieter outside on night mode. I can experiment to see if the sound is different. Usually I run it on low after running it high for a few minutes. John

Thanks John. I couldn't either, but I like how quiet it is. After I turn the A/C off lately I have run the vent to maybe dry the inner parts of the unit. Not sure if it's necessary, but that's what I do now. John

Hi all, we have the Truma A/C. It has four fan speeds. High, medium, low and night. I can't tell the difference between low and night. For those owners with a Truma A/C, do you notice a difference between low and nighttime fan speeds? John

Thanks

Hi all, I used our outside shower and noticed water leaking from two steel scuppers by the outside shower. Anyone else experience this? TIA. John

"Hope this helps" John, that is now crystal clear. Thanks very much for the explanation. I will start using the same method. If I put a 2x6 or two on top of the Camco jack stand, it appears that I would create that same effect and also limit the travel of the stabilizer jack even more. The goal should be to limit the travel of those jacks to be more stable with more of the jack in the housing. Then if I do drive off, there should be minimal damage if any to the jack. John

"I carry a milk crate full of 2 X 6 blocks. I use three under all my jacks to act as a shear-plane. Should for some reason the trailer moves, I'll hear a clunk and recall that I failed to use my check list." John, we use Camco yellow jack stands. Do you have pictures of how you use the 2x6 blocks? I don't understand the shear-plane concept. I do understand not extending the stabilizer legs too far. In the OP, he asked if there's anything wrong and the long extension is probably the thing that pops out in my mind. I would need more blocks in his situation, maybe a milk carton full of 2x6, but how to use them along with the Camco jack stands? John

I see a rubber or stainless steel option. Any preference for either and what length is commonly needed? John