Ralph Mawyer

Left-Side Hinge Ordering - Just FYI, and to keep this key thread somewhat at the top, if you are ordering a Nova Kool 5810, most in stock fridges are right-side hinged. You can swap sides, but Nova Kool recommends ordering a left-side hinge. I got the sense from talking to them, that if you reverse the door, you end up with the holes exposed and apparently it voids the five year warranty. Lead time as I write this is 4-6 weeks. I got mine from suremarine.com out of Seattle. They are a high volume Nova Kool dealer and close to the Canadian factory. Shipping to San Antonio is around $500. ;-(, but their price was best I could find. https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Single-Door-Freezers/F5810ACDC.html

FWIW, I ended up ordering the Nova Kool. Someone either on here or Facebook wanted the old burner. I also expect to have new optical board and main board we acquired du4ing troubleshooting ,if interested.

tried them, via his eBay listing, but will try him direct. Major RV parts company bought Norcold and supposedly re-manufacturing parts again, just can't get a sense of target date or computer is just showing backorder, with big void behind that.

Nova Kool Left-Hinge Availability? Due to the lack of Norcold replacement parts, membrane control panel in my case, I may be doing a fridge replacement. If you replaced yours with a Nova Kool, where did you source it? I’ve found few in stock, but more critically they are all right-hand hinge. Left-side hinge models are 4-6 week order time from the factory. My tech and I, along with ChatGPT, have search with no luck for both the membrane and board, and for the Nova Kool left-hinge.

Wish John Davies was still producing engineering level threads on here. 😉 Anyway, pulled trailer from storage after 10 months and getting no DC or AC power to the panel. AC plug is live. Fuses and breakers are good. Found a reference on the Oliver FB page which led me to a ChatGPT finding. Anyone pulled the panel in a circa 2020 trailer with a Norcold? For your Oliver, the most realistic no-fridge-removal approach is: Method 1: Front trim/clip release Kill all power: unplug shore power turn off trailer battery/disconnect shut off propane Open the fridge door. Inspect the eyebrow trim above the door very closely: look underneath for small slots near the left and right ends use a thin plastic trim tool or very small flat blade wrapped in tape Gently release one side, then the other. Do not pry hard in the center first. These old plastic eyebrow pieces can crack. Once the trim/cover is off: remove any screws retaining the control module pull the panel forward just enough to expose the harness unplug and swap the panel This is the most likely path if your model uses snap tabs. Method 2: Hidden-screw version Some Norcold eyebrow assemblies have: screws under a decorative strip screws behind edge trim/seal areas In those cases remove the decorative trim strip first expose screws pull panel forward disconnect harness and replace board/panel

Thanks. Was on their website, but guess I should have looked harder. 🙂

As usual, noting is simple when I touch a wrench. I have a new sleeve for my hitch. I’ve taken off the top plate and the bottom c-clip. is it brute force to get the ball assembly to slide up and out. It still thinks it’s on a trailer and won’t budge. what am I missing?

Perfect, thanks guys. Identifying good food is always priority one.

Alcan Spring replacement logistics? I'll be returning from Yellowstone to Texas in early June and am thinking about stopping to have the springs done. Is this an all-day job, i.e., arrive night before and leave day after. Facilities to stay in trailer at their site? Other approaches? Are they doing Bulldog shock replacements also? Other things I need to consider?

Called Truma Svc in Austin. He said they were told it was not a Truma recall and that it had to go to Oliver service for repair. He agreed he could functionally do it, but didn’t know details. Very confused, given how few RV places have Truma experience. Have call into Svc.

Sounds cool. Don't suppose you have photos? 😉

Texas is not a boondocking state, unless you like Walmart. My preference out of SA going west is Balmoreah State Park past Ft. Stockton, then one of the Arizona state parks the next night. I've done a straight run to Arizona State Park for night one, but you have to enjoy 12 hour driving days. El Paso is 500 miles, slightly uphill and usually into the wind. Watch your gas levels. Even on I-10 it can be lonely out there..

One day from San Antonio to Sedona? 😉 Might put this in your toolkit. Wanderinglabs.com I used it a lot when my plans changed coming back from Yellowstone via Utah to San Antonio.

Thanks, missed that. So guess my drive back to Texas from Georgia was an experience of towing with just a normal hitch.

John Davies used to pull his OEII with a 200 series Land Cruiser, but he's no longer online, so... in case someone else might be using the Andersen WDH with a similar truck... My understanding is the Andersen manages weight distribution with the chains and sway control with the friction portion of the hitch. I’ve got a 17' Lexus 2013 LX 570, like Toyota Land Cruiser, but has hydraulic suspension leveling. GVWR is 7300lbs. Carrying capacity is rated at 1200 in the US, higher in Europe. I'm pulling a 23' Oliver II weighing approximately 6000lbs with hitch weight of 600lbs. Since the truck can manage the weight distribution via the suspension, much like with air bags, is there any reason not to just forgo the chain hassles and just use the hitch with the built in sway control? I did drive for 1000 miles without the chains being correctly adjusted when I first picked up, on the trip home. Some sway was noticeable, but not dramatic. The chains do tighten the load, but in most cases sway seems to be good when not hooked up. Thoughts?