Dave and Kimberly

So… first thanks to each of you that responded! The CO/LP detector fuse is easy to find and get to (under street side bed)… IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO LOOK! I put a tag on it similar to what Galway girl did (Good idea!) I added another 1 amp fuse to my box of emergency fuses and also realized I only had one 30 amp slow blow inline fuse (for the three electric jacks)…. So ordered some more. The new detector looks good and the fun thing is it adds to my collection of little lights that reflect all around inside the camper when I find myself wide awake in the middle of the night. I like to think of them as “stars”.

Thank you! I did find exactly that 1 amp (black blade type) fuse. Mine isn’t marked or anything obvious like yours but I will find a replacement 1 amp fuse for it. If that’s it, I’ve found it, but didn’t know it! Patriot pointed me in that General direction too… I’ll report back anything I discover.

I couldn't exactly trace the very specific detector wire... but I did check the wires going into the back of the 12 volt panel... and also checked each ground wire on the bus bar to ensure they were all good and tight. I'm a little bit out of my "lane" doing electrical work... so I called an electrical inclined neighbor to confirm my steps and he was stumped as well. Side bar: It's good to hear from you Bill... you are still looking good! 🙂

It's been a while since I've had to ask for some help... but here we go tonight! Prior to putting our Oliver away for the winter... the CO/LP detector seemed to be getting more and more "hyper sensitive" to the point where it finally just wouldn't go off. I reached under the front dinette seat and had to cut the positive wire to stop it. Plan was to simply replace it with a new one. I get the new one and now I find that the wires going to the detector (the ones I cut) do not have voltage. I had a friend confirm my findings and we checked every 12 volt fuse and everything was fine (there is no fuse specifically marked for the detector). Everything else, 12 volt in camper seems to be working fine... including the little USB plugs and all the lights. Anyone have any experience with changing out the CO/LP detector? Clues or ideas? I did try to jump start the the new detector just to confirm that it works but was unsuccessful in that. It seems highly unlikely that the brand new detector is "bad".... especially considering the OEM installed wires going to the old detector appear to be dead.

See now I must just be different? I like all the little lights inside at night... the way they reflect in multiple places, bouncing from curve to curve around the interior. I think of them as my Ollies star-lights! 🙂 That said... I really appreciate the nice neat daisy chained ground wires! Good job!

Nice cherry table! Wood working is one of my favorite things and I made several mods in our camper including the expanded table top, some drawer organizers and such. Most recently, in order to satisfy my need for organization I installed an organizer in the back of our truck to stow the camping gear in a way that reflects the order and sequence as I pull it out of the truck bed.

My understanding in 2022 (when we picked up ours) that the Lithionics batteries are only sold to OEM places like Oliver. I was told that you can buy them thru Oliver. If that isn't the case anymore someone can chime in and correct me. Just from reading the Forum I know folks have bought the Xantrex inverters directly from Xantrex.

I have nine (count em!) sets of keys that are necessary to lock/un lock everything! When I get them all together on key ring I look like a high-school janitor! The only ones I actually carry are the truck and the Oliver basement/battery box key. The good thing that happened going thru my key sets is that it made me record the key number for each... you know... in case I lose both sets 🙂 ~Oliver RV Lock (the manual key) ~Basement/Battery door ~Proven Industries tongue lock ~Hitch Pin Lock ~Hitch ball lock ~Bike rack pin lock ~Bike cable lock ~Truck cap lock ~and of course ... the truck lock. 😛

So , at least in my case and several others... they are taking care of the Truma recall repair at the rally. Jason has just called to confirm they have the parts set aside and that they will be taking care of it there. That is just great service from Oliver in my opinion! Can't wait to see everyone there!!

I contacted Oliver about 7~8 weeks ago and spoke with Jason (the new one) and we tentatively planned to do my recall repair at the rally. The biggest hold-up was simply getting the replacement parts from Truma. He asked me to call back a time or two in March to get updates on A) the parts status and B) whether Oliver was going to have a "Rally" repair team to do these repairs. Coincidently just today was the second time I've called them back and neither time have they responded one way or the other. I'm still hoping they can do it at the rally. Jason said the whole process was only 30~45 minutes at most. Ours is and always has worked fine with no indication of a problem... but with some extra caution and awareness I plan to use it until the parts are replaced. As I understand it the burner bracket "may come loose"... in certain situations.

Thanks for the quick response and information! Yes... we are going to be at the rally this year (site E-03) and only the second time we've been able to make it since we were there in 2022 right after buying our Oliver. We are almost as excited to get this new truck as we were to get the Oliver! We won't have it at the rally though... delivery isn't until late May... but trying to line up all our truck bling so that we can have it all ready! Also getting a Smartcap Adventure to keep our gear a bit more protected back there. Lets be sure to hook up because I have lots of questions... and you can tell me all about your Alcan springs also! (I have to say this carefully so as not to get another 20+pages started on the subject 🤣) We CAN NOT WAIT to see everyone at the rally again!!

Patriot- I did a search and your post was exactly what I was looking for! I'm upgrading my truck to an F-250 Super duty Lariat 6.7L Diesel...and I was considering exactly the hitch you bought. Because I don't have the truck yet... I can't measure it up to determine which "drop" to get and ensure our Ollie rides nice and flat. Did you need the 10" drop to make that happen... or do you just have multiple trailers that require it? I see that the hitch comes in several drops... 6", 8" and 10" drops also.

WELCOME Jason! We look forward to working with you and good luck in your new position!

Its one part of whats called a 3 WAY switch. Just like in your house where you can turn a light on/off from opposite sides of the room... this allows you to turn the water pump on from either the wall above dinette OR from the bathroom.

I'm thinking that my next truck will be an F-250 super duty diesel. I understand all the benefits (pay load, braking, handling and elimination of the WDS) There is a significant cost up ($10K) for the diesel engine alone. Ive read enough folks opinions on the diesel engine and I'm convinced that it is better for towing. My current F-150 just never gets any more than 13mpg... and thats generally a good day! A question to the many of you folks that have made the leap to diesel; what kind of milage are you getting while towing your Ollie?

I'm glad your power came back on Steve! I've seen other posts where our Ollies can also double up as a comfortable back up housing in a pinch!

It's clearly (by the comments already) a matter of preference. We like to always leave home (or one campsite to the next) with full fresh and empty black and gray. For one thing we like having our nice water from home in tank, but we also invariably use our bathroom along the way. Regarding drinking from it... we do, but also carry a Brita water gizmo in the fridge. So even our water is filtered once more from tank for our coffee and drinking water. There have been times when I left one campsite and planned on having water at the next site... so I didn't fill up my fresh. Then our plans changed and I found myself boon-docking without that water in my fresh tank... so now it's just my rule: full fresh, empty black and gray no matter what, I just do it.

HD... I feel your pain. I too loved taking off on my motorcycle and just catching a hotel somewhere along the way... with little or no planning except a "general direction" in mind. That said... I've learned with the Ollie how to be nearly as spontaneous by becoming more and more aware of the Ollie's capabilities... AND I CAN SLEEP IN MY OWN BED EVERY NIGHT. It's also much cheaper than decent hotel rooms at today's prices! It's taken us a couple of years... and now with nearly 270 nights in our Oliver to get used to how to maximize all of it's strengths. As you learn how long your fresh, gray and black tanks last (the way you travel), you start to learn just how "free" you are. If you are just traveling, trying to get somewhere, a Walmart or Cracker Barrel work great because they are nearly everywhere. It's also very nice to have, besides your rolling hotel room... a rolling restaurant with great food and snacks, and a clean bathroom when the moment strikes. Let's not even talk about that quick nap! The Oliver is so self contained and easy to get in and out grocery store parking lots, fast food joints, gas stations, small towns and side streets, etc., that you will come to appreciate the amenities of your Oliver. It's also easy to get in to campsites that many would not be able to. Regarding planning; it takes a certain amount of planning to go see and spend time in those destination "hot spots" that we've always wanted to see. What we have found works best for us is to anchor your trip with reservations in those places that just require it... but allow time in between those hot spot reservations to be spontaneous (that place the locals told you you just can't miss!), time for medical or mechanical emergencies and to just allow time to shop for groceries and do the laundry. Of course I'm saying all of this and assuming that you don't have too many time constraints. If you are still working you can throw out everything I just said! 🙂 If you ever took Stephen Covey's class on "Seven Habits of Highly Effective People"... all of this reminds me of the "lesson" of putting in the big rocks in the jar first (the things that really matter) ... and then sprinkle in the little rocks (smaller things that are fun... but maybe not absolutely necessary). Travel is fun, but I don't like it to be so much like work. I'm done with schedules and self inflicted constraints to be somewhere at a certain time. Time to relax, enjoy, be surprised... and stop in at that store in the mountains that serves awesome huckleberry pie and ice-cream.

GJ... the "red light" on the battery blanket switch is all I am going by. And I agree that the true test is to measure any draw going to that blanket independent of the red light. While I have the electrical tester... it's a case of having a tool... but not absolutely certain how to use it to it's potential. 🙂 I have a neighbor that might be able to show me if can get his attention long enough to teach me some basics. FYI: We came home from a short trip... and it's sitting out there, now with the ceiling fan on about 50%.... running 24/7 and the battery is staying at 99 or 100% all the time???? Of course the solar panels are keeping up with the drain.

I did my career at Honda of America, Mfg in Ohio. We of course tracked every units build and history with the V.I.N.. I thought Oliver was doing the same with the Elite and Elite II builds, using either the "hull number" or some other identifier... but I realized when they sent out the mass-mailings on the Bulldog hitch recall that they weren't doing anything at all like that. THEY upgraded my hitch from the 2" / 7000 lb Bulldog to the 2 5/16" / 12,500 lb version. Even though they had done this... they sent me a recall notice. If their build records were complete... this would have been unnecessary. Evidently, at some point in their production run... there was some 5,000 lb Bulldog hitches that had gotten inadvertently installed. Maybe even just one?? But because they couldn't ascertain the production window where they KNEW there were good parts... they had to go back and check all or nearly all of them, because the risk was just too great. I suspect that this has shined a light on why they might want to be doing something like this going forward.

Ron... how exactly do you turn the "inverter" off ? You mention two locations, one of which is the wall mount. Thats the only place I've ever turned it on/off. Where is the second place? Is it the breaker (under dinette)? I have only recently tested that location as well. SO off on the remote and off at the breaker panel under the dinette. Our 2022 Ollie has the 3000 watt inverter but I'm guessing all things considered both are the same. I should mention that everything works perfectly fine when we are using the camper and this is only a problem when home and NOT USING the camper.

GJ... Last week I pulled all of the fuses... and and turned off every breaker and of course made sure that nothing was running, no sound, no fans, no lights, etc.. Everything "appears" off. The Lithionics app is the only data I have, and it's not showing any "current consumption"... and yet that same app (Sunday to Wednesday) has shows SOC has went from 80% to 77%. Clearly, electricity is being siphoned off somehow? We will use the camper this next week... but once we are home... I'm almost to the point of turning off the inverter and batteries to see if this stops the drain. Of course then the only way to get a status update would be to turn the batteries back on.

So... other than the Red light, how did you know the battery blanket was "on". My switch toggles from on to off and through out it has been in the off mode.

So the concern I have, that while it sounds simple to just turn off batteries... it seems in a direct contradiction to what Oliver and Lithionics says? (see John Dorrer post above) I vaguely remember something about the inverter being on with the batteries turned off... and then turning on the batteries (one by one) and there was some sort of possibility of a surge doing damage? Maybe someone can speak more informed about this? STATUS update: Friday at 12pm...after charging batteries were at 100%. At the moment, three days later batteries are at 98%. A more reasonable loss level. Everything is off, all the 12 volt fuses are pulled and all the breakers are turned off (under the dinette table). I'm going to replace those fuses/turn on breakers.... and continue my search for "what is consuming electric" when everything appears to be OFF?

Apologize to those trying to help... I'm reading and trying as many of the suggestions as possible, but the nature of it takes time to ascertain what the results are. Geronimo John- I'm not familiar with another fuse panel in the attic? Do you mean the rear storage space (above rear window) where the EMS, TV antennae on/off area? Our Ollie is a 2022 if that matters. I've resisted turning off the batteries. I don't think the failure is with them and I've also shied away from disconnecting power to the CO2 and/or fuse panel (now all red lights) because I don't think those little lights would be a significant draw. In addition, I've went out to the trailer at night to see if there are any lights on anywhere; outside basement storage area, inside, outside, trailer running lights, etc. Nothing. My 7-pin connector is housed safely out of rain in holder made for it. My Xantrex inverter is turned off at the control panel. And it's quiet as a church mouse. No fan, no humming, nothing. Exactly how do you "trip it's circuit protection"? To be honest... I'm concerned about turning off some of these things because it would take me down another electrical rabbit hole when I try to power them up. (worried about sequence of turning inverter and batteries back on and damaging something???)