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bradbev

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Everything posted by bradbev

  1. John, FYI, looks like my 3500 may sit higher than your 2500 Dodge. I ended up purchasing the 45260 with 2" drop (same as you but using it flipped). Also just to make sure I'm in the ball park, I ordered a 45270 4" drop. Also, the 40038 2" ball, 1" shank rated at 12000 lbs. Between those, and the air bags, I think I'll be able to come up with a combo that will put me pretty level. Amazon should have everything here Saturday. We'll be departing Tuesday, July 4th. Brad
  2. John, Thanks for the information. I suspected the frame hitch in the Dodge was substantial but glad to have it confirmed. I'd not thought about having an extended stinger (ball mount) but I like the suggestion. I'm thinking about a class 4 stinger and ball with 1 and 1/4" shank with a minimum of 7500 lbs rating. This afternoon I'm going to make some measurements this before I remove the 5th wheel hitch which will kind of substitute for weight of the ARE topper I've got on order. I was kind of thinking of waiting until we reach Tennessee and purchase at Tractor Supply but I'm a little afraid they may not have what I need. Appreciate the advise. Brad
  3. Getting ready to head to Tennessee and looking at the collection of Class II (2) balls, stingers, etc left over from 40 years of RVing. Most stamped 5000 lbs, 500 tongue weight. Maybe I need to upgrade, but not exactly sure of the height I'll need. I see some class 3 and 4 hardware that should handle an Elite II. Anita told me from 23.5 to 26 inches as I remember. Still have a topper to install along with all the junk, but we do have air bags to help correct any sag. The hitch on the Dodge 3500 is a frame mounted unit and I'm not sure of it's ratings. There's a 5000/500 rating stamped on the bumper, but I think that is for a ball mounted on the bumper, not the frame hitch. Thoughts? I've pulled heaver (25 foot Bigfoot) on 1/2 ton Ford factory hitches without thinking about it. Getting paranoid in my old age. Brad
  4. I wasn't aware of the Victron, thanks for the link. I've installed the Bogart system in my last two rigs, and helped install a couple others in friend's rigs. I think the Bogart meter would work with the ZAMP controller, but I'll probably look at replacing the ZAMP and install the complete Bogart system. I don't have my rig yet, but I think both components, meter and controller, could be mounted in the area vacated by the ZAMP. Brad
  5. Hi Doug and Yvonne, Your display looks good to me even though it doesn't match the chart in the manual. I'm willing to bet the chart is wrong. First the digital display: It looks as if you're set up for AGM batteries, your voltage is 13.7 volts and it's showing 100% charge. The left hand 3 LED's from left to right show's On - Off - On. That translates to a fully charged battery on float charge. I'm guessing the right hand 3 LED's are causing the confusion. The left hand LED show On - Off - Off which indicates over 12.5 volts. The chart in the manual for float shows all three LEDs off. I'm guessing that isn't accurate. Hopefully Jason can confirm that with ZAMP. I think the display is correct and the chart in the manual is wrong. Worse case, I'm sure Jason has another controller available so I'd plan on continuing on the trip. I'm appreciate feedback after your visit. (Beverly and I will be at the plant on the 6th to pick up our new trailer.) Brad
  6. I'd like information on the electric valves also. Brad
  7. George, When at the recent Oliver rally, the Truma representative gave a presentation on the Truma tankless water heater. After the presentation, I won a http://www.levelcheck.com/us/ propane level indicator by answering one of his questions proving I was paying attention. :) It works most of the time, you need a good clean contact between the probe and the tank. It works using ultrasound, and the light turns either green or red, and there's an audio sound that represents propane or no propane. There's a video on the site to show how to operate it. I think it's a little pricey at $70, but I'm happy to have won it. I see something similar on Amazon for $18 and another for $40. Search for "propane level indicator". )
  8. Couple of thoughts from someone who hasn't received the Elite II yet: The water tank has an existing penetration on top, the overflow/vent line. I don't know how accessible that port is, but if it is accessible, I'm wondering if it might be used as an entry port for a new suction line. Second, my buddy's Bigfoot's black water tank had a leak/split on the top at the entry from the commode. He used a plastic welding kit to not only repair the split, but he moved the opening closer to the wall giving more free floor space in his 25' Bigfoot's bathroom. I had an identical Bigfoot but didn't tackle the project because I didn't have a leak, but I would have liked to have the commode moved a few inches closer to the wall. I think you were using a process of spin welding? I'm not familiar with that, but wondering if the plastic welding procedure might be an alternative. Brad - Santa Fe, NM
  9. OK, I got clarification on this issue, and it makes sense. The hull number is the last 3 digits of your VIN. OK, my VIN ends with 5241 and my hull number is 241. Brad - Santa Fe
  10. I see the Truma AquaGo® decalcification tablets are about $20 for 6 tablets. About how often are you having to use them? Brad - Santa Fe, NM
  11. Thanks, I wasn't aware of that tool. Brad
  12. Thanks John. Good work! I'd like to think mine would have the mod installed but I'm afraid it's not going to happen since next Monday is to be it's birth date. Brad - Santa Fe, NM
  13. When are hull numbers assigned? At the start of the manufacturing process? As they roll off the line? I assume the hull numbers are not associated with the size of the trailer. IE, there is no #25 single axle and #25 dual axle, right? Thanks, Brad - Santa Fe, NM Hull number ???, (Guess I'll find out when I pick up July 6th. :)
  14. Thanks for the ideas everyone. I'd been looking at the Anderson but thought they were a little pricey so have held off ordering. I did catch a good price for a pair of X Chocks on Amazon of about $45 for a pair but they're now over $71. I saw the lower price about a month ago, placed in my cart to order the next day and the price jumped. Saw them again with the lower price a couple of nights ago. So, if you catch a lower price, order immediately. I'll be reporting on an electronic level system that displays on your android device, sorry Apple user, it's Bluetooth version isn't compatible to your devices. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZDNR3W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you want to play with it before ordering, you can download the app and use your android in local mode without the $75 sensor that mounts in the trailer. (You could actually use it by laying your phone inside the rig on the floor.) We'll be picking up our Elite II July 6th. Brad - Santa Fe, NN
  15. We ordered the risers after seeing them at the recent Oliver rally. We placed our order on Tuesday, stuck around for the rally and added about $7,000 of adds Monday after the rally. :) We may miss the ability to sit on the beds, but I think we'll love the extra storage. Since they're behind the axles, I purchased a tongue weight scale to make sure we don't get ourselves in trouble. The nice couple who showed us their risers at the rally mentioned that the total height of the combined bed, riser and mattress put you high enough that you could damage the blinds with your elbows or knees. They fastened a strip of laminate flooring cut to cover the bottom of the window, fastened to the window frame using something like command strips or Velcro tape. Our Elite II rolls off the line next Monday, but we won't be able to pick up until July 6th. Brad - Santa Fe, NM
  16. I saw some great custom nose art, and graphics on spare tire covers at the recent Oliver rally. I'm wondering if you got them through Oliver or purchased locally? We live in Santa Fe and may want to put something to identify our Elite II that reflects the area where we live. We take delivery in about a month and have requested the factory nose and tire cover logos be left off the trailer and put in cabin should we decide to install them later. Brad
  17. I think it will be great to meet up. our schedule is to arrive late on the 4th in Amarillo, Memphis on the 5th, then to the plant at 1pm of the 6th. I've sent you a chat message with my contact info. Let me know if you don't receive it. Brad
  18. Beverly and I will be picking up our Elite II in early July. I think your idea of sticking around for more than one night is a good idea. Any suggestions of what areas to inspect? Most folks will just check for function of the appliances, but as a retired field tech, I have no problem pulling access panels and checking for quality issues. One of my functions working for Honeywell was to follow up the Project guys to not only to make sure it worked, but that it was installed correctly. However, I'd like to add that I was very impressed with what I saw during the factory tour. I climbed into tubs and looked carefully at the build quality and it looked great. So, I'm not expecting to find much, and hopefully nothing at all. Brad - Santa Fe, NM
  19. I'd like to know the inside dimension of the generator basket. I'm trying to come up with a solution to hide my Honda. Brad Cottingham Santa Fe, NM (Tentatively scheduled for a late June delivery.)
  20. I've not seen an Oliver yet but expect at least one at the Bluebonnet rally. My first question: What is the difference between the Elite and Classic? Is this just a difference in trim level of the same trailer or a completely different model? Brad
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