Overland

I think that's the most likely situation. Dustin is supposed to call me in a bit and hopefully everything is fine - nothing is updating online yet.

I think that's semantics. The situation here is that not returning a phone call could easily cost them $4000 in batteries and I get to delay or cancel yet another trip while we wait for batteries to ship. That's worst case, and hopefully unlikely, but worth me trying to get in touch with them I think. Fortunately, they're LFPs - if they were AGMs, they'd be toasted for sure.

I left our trailer with Oliver on Thursday to fix the broken water heater before our next trip. and being unfamiliar I guess with the trailer, they pulled it inside and left both the 12v fridge and the inverter on, without plugging it in. Without solar or shore power, our batteries are good under those loads for about three days, which meant that they would hit 100% DOD sometime Sunday afternoon. I realized this on Saturday when I checked on the trailer status and tried contacting Oliver without any luck. I wanted to see if someone could go over and either plug in the trailer or turn off the fridge and inverter to protect the batteries. I left messages with both Jason and Ritchie, but neither returned my calls and nothing was done to trailer. It stopped sending updates around 9:30 last night when the batteries finally dipped below 10v. I’m hoping that the battery protect circuits did their job but I have no way of knowing right now. Anyway, what do you guys do in emergencies when you need to get in touch with Oliver? Calling and leaving messages obviously isn’t the way.

I haven't had any problems with the doors, only the shelves. If they've changed the doors, though, I'm sure ours are the new ones since when I ordered the replacement door with the correct swing, they asked about the style of the door interior to see if I had the latest version. I think fixing the shelves will be a simple matter of adding some hardware to hold them in their grooves. I'm also thinking about adding a fan inside to keep the air temp consistent throughout.

The silver faced insulation at the top - you should be able to pull it down easily. From that point, if you choose to hardwire it, you can either use the 12v outlet in the cabinet using a cigarette lighter adapter, or you can tie directly into the 12v using one of the electrical sub panel circuits on the street side of the cabinet. Undo the two bolts at the bottom of the side panel there and it will fall down to reveal the biggest mess of unlabelled wiring you've ever seen in your life. Also access to the breakers and a negative bus bar which you can use for power.

I wouldn't read anything into the 3-phase thing as they're just talking about the internal workings of the compressor. They use a Danfoss BD35F compressor in this fridge (12v only) which can be run at four speeds: 2000-3500 rpm in 500 rpm increments. Indel (Isotherm) only uses the lower 3 speeds for some reason, hence the 75%. When the fridge detects a charge, it will allow the compressor to be run at 3000 rpm. Otherwise, it limits the rpm to 2000 or 2500, depending on the switch setting. I don't remember what the voltage needs to be before it will allow the boost mode, but it will detect a solar charge. The Danfoss compressors, btw, use a trick similar to the soft starts that everyone is adding to their AC units - it does a phase alignment at start up to reduce the locked rotor amps and that's what allows them to run on 12v. They're very robust units and are found in a wide range of mobile fridge and freezer units. Isotherm is a marine brand, but as stated above, Indel brands these fridges under multiple names, some of which are specifically marketed for road use. The problem, btw, does seem to have been the ASU module. I haven't tried out the ASU mode yet, but the fridge is now working under manual mode just fine. I suspect that the unit was either DOA from the factory, or fried at some point during construction at Oliver. It could also be that it was never pushed in all the way which led it to short out and then eventually vibrate off. I say that because when it's pushed in fully, it's in there super tight. But I'll add a few dollops of silicone to hold it in place anyway, just because it's come out once and why take chances. While the fridge is out, I'm going to insulate the cabinet and add a layer of reflectix to the fridge itself. I'm concerned about the installation now, as the mounting holes for the fridge all look like this: Nice. 3 screws seem to be holding, but one already spins. I think the solution is to glue in some wood blocks behind and then some longer screws. I'll see if Oliver can oblige. One other thing I've run into multiple times is this: That's the control panel for the fridge and a full ¾" of slack that I have in the cable to work with. It's really frustrating, and I don't know why Oliver does this, but it seems like every other panel is wired this way, with the cables taped in place with gorilla tape and zero slack and then the extra cable wound up elsewhere.

Looks good. How big is the built-in surge suppressor? I bought the portable one since I thought I might use it elsewhere but it would be less of a hassle to have the built-in, so it might be a future mod sometime down the road. I don't know where I'd put it though since I've commandeered both sides of the of the wheel well top for other electrical.

To update, I've learned a few things about fridges now that we've had one in use for a bit. First, like Sherry, I wish I'd gotten drawers (assuming the drawer unit would fit the Ollie of course since it's a bit wider). On the Isotherm unit, the shelves on the front load seem secure enough, but under use we've had them collapse twice while on the road. Plus everything gets rearranged enough even if the shelves hold that I think a drawer unit would have been a wiser choice. Probably a bit easier to locate and retrieve things, too. Worth the extra, imo. Secondly, well, I might regret having promoted the ASU model since I'm replacing my ASU module as I type. It doesn't seem to have worked from day one (supposedly - my suspicion is that the thermistor is what's really out, but Isotherm sent me an ASU module instead so that's what I'm replacing.) Problem is that while on ASU mode the fridge doesn't keep cool, but while on manual mode, the fridge won't stop cooling, running at a nice 25° or so. We also had the ASU module vibrate lose once while on the road, so be sure that those connections and the ASU module are all well secured before installing the fridge.

That's a good point - I didn't look at the photo. The door and frame Oliver uses wouldn't be nearly large enough to retrofit. Sherry, did you decide on the Isotherm? I'll add an update to the fridge thread that you might read if you haven't bought one just yet.

I really like those larger Flotec units. Do you guys with them depressurize the system while traveling? I've had the bath faucet vibrate open while on the road and I guess were that to happen that you'd lose whatever water was in the accumulator. That might not be a big deal if the water goes down the drain, but if you have a fitting break, that two gallons might go somewhere you don't want (I've got a pressurized line running past all my electrical, street side, and I've also had a fitting break right behind the return air vent which gushed water straight into the cabin). It might also make it more difficult to diagnose smaller leaks, since the recurrent blip of the water pump is usually what gives them away. Maybe a valve on the accumulator would be handy (assuming it's placed somewhere...handy)?

We use two mats from Ikea - one inside and one out. The inside one fits perfectly in front of the door and the outside one is nice and stiff for getting dirt and rocks out of hiking boot treads. They also make more of a mesh matt that would be good for shoes that don't have big lugs. All of them can be hosed off. We just toss the outside mat inside when we travel.

We got the door/cabinet option from the factory and use the smallest Breville toaster oven in there, which *almost* fits. We definitely have gotten more use out of the oven than we would have the microwave. I don't know how your microwave was wired, but ours just has a 120 in the cabinet above and a hole to run a cord through. I can measure the exact size of the door Oliver installs if you want. When you get the option from them, they build a cabinet inside that isn't much larger than the door. In fact, it's smaller than they told us it would be which means we got stuck with a larger oven than will fit. In fact, if someone is considering the factory option, know that I was actually given one set of dimensions early on, which was different from what's listed on the measurement pdf, which was different from what I overheard Heather telling a customer on the phone while I was picking up our trailer, which was different from what was actually in our trailer. So good luck, buyers!

Sorry to confuse. Both the Victron and the Cradlepoint are separate modifications that I added after taking delivery and that a few others here are already familiar with - neither are required in order to use the Spot. As others have posted, adding the Spot is an easy modification that you can do yourself. In fact, if you're O.K. with just running it off of batteries, then you don't even have to wire it up. You can just tuck it under the insulation in the rear overhead cabinet and tape it to the hull. You could use a strong mounting tape like 3M VHB - the Spot Trace, which is the model you'd want, is only a few inches square and comes with a mounting clip that makes it easy to remove later to change the batteries. Even if you do hard wire it to the trailer's 12 volt system, you'll want to add batteries as a backup, in case your thief is clever enough to cut the power before taking off. You can even set the Spot to text a warning when it switches to its internal battery.

Yes, that's right. The Victron control panel is tied to the Cradlepoint via ethernet and connects automatically to Victron's server to upload data, including it's GPS coordinates. The location is then shown on a google map inset at the bottom of the Victron VRM dashboard.

We have a Spot - it's the only option I know of that has satellite based communication rather than cellular, so if your trailer is ever stolen you'd have a better chance of locating it. The drawback is that the software isn't great and so if you're using it to give a link to friends and family to follow you along, we've found that they'll have a hard time actually following your path anywhere. I asked Oliver to install it under the AC cover but of course they forgot and mounted it out in the open where anyone can see it. So moving it and plugging the hole they drilled is just another of the many things on my list to redo. I also added a cheapy bluetooth GPS module to our Victron system as a backup. It's cellular based so it would have to be in range to track, but it's less likely for anyone to find and it's free (minus the admission fee). I just tucked the receiver behind the insulation and taped it to the inside of the hull and it seems to get a signal just fine.

I asked for the same and they said they didn't know what I was talking about.

Yep, we also have the Harbor Freight ones. I just wish that they hadn't made them from the stinkiest rubber known to man.

Yeah, I was surprised a the burn marks too but I'm not a welder and can't really comment (other than to say that the whole bracket was completely unnecessary and the location of the actuator is unsafe and that had they used the components I asked for it would be safer and far easier to install.) I can also comment that though the photo was taken while the trailer was on the assembly line, it was delivered pretty much as shown, with three hand tightened nuts and one missing one.

We had to fill up with Glacier water while in Cloudcroft because the Forest Service closed down the campsites early and cut off the water. Not an ideal solution but we're glad to have had the option. I'm sure part of it is the new tank. We didn't have time to do many things, and one of those was to flush out the tank. Regardless, I'm thinking about installing a carbon filter at the sink, which should take care of the taste problem.

Well, while you've mostly worked through your problems, trailers with issues are still being delivered off the line. I had loose screws, missing screws, blown fuses, a brake system that doesn't work, broken water lines, broken water heater, broken fridge, loose wiring, insufficiently sized wiring, missing pieces, water leaks, broken door latches, broken 12v and 120v outlets, upgrades that I paid for that I either had to install myself or just didn't get, and countless finish issues that they couldn't get to because they procrastinated for so long on our trailer that they didn't have time to do a proper QC before we took delivery. And that list is just off the top of my head. I'm sure that there are more issues in my notes. Oliver's problem, in our opinion, isn't with any people in production or service, nor does it have to do with components or the design of the trailer. The problem lies simply with prioritizing production numbers over quality, and pushing their employees so far that they can't return calls or do the quality job they want to do. The problem is at the top. Scott needs to decide if he wants to make the best trailers or if he wants to make Elkhart trailers. If he wants Elkhart, then he just needs to lower the price and let the quality be what it is. But if he wants to be the best, then he needs to cut production back to where it was two years ago and get his factory and service ducks back in a row, and only then think about getting the numbers back up. My advice to everyone we met while on the road - and there was at least one curious soul whenever we stopped for more than 5 minutes - was to find a used Ollie. Something with a hull number under 200 or a newer one from someone who's gone through and fixed everything. I just can't recommend at this time that anyone buy a new unit from the factory. You have to consider that most people aren't like the few of us who travel with a full set of tools and who filled a drawer full of spare parts before their first trip in expectation of having to go through the trailer at every stop to fix loose screws. The only reason that the trailers arguably don't have the issues of other manufacturers is because the original design from years ago doesn't allow for those types of problems to occur. And for that reason only, I'm relatively happy with the trailer. Once I'm done upgrading, fixing, and hardening everything to the way it should be, then it will be a fantastic trailer. But it won't be an Oliver because it won't be anything that Oliver is right now capable of producing. I will tell people that I bought a shell from Oliver and built my own trailer because that's essentially what I will have done.

That reminds me of another useful add on we asked for, which is a 'panic' switch for the outdoor lighting. It's a single switch over the bed connected to both sets of outdoor lights. It came in handy when we got a late night knock on the door while camped in middle of nowhere Arizona. It was Manny.

That's the same one they used on mine. It's O.K., but super slow to adjust. It's a 3-way that on ours is connected to all of the overheads, so it functions as a master switch for the main cabin lights, kitchen, rear left and right, and dinette. It's nice that way, but if you forget about it like I did a few times, it will lead to a few moments of panic as you're flipping switches wondering what on earth came loose in the electrical. One drawback with the dimmer is that if we have a load on the inverter, the dimmed lights will pulse at about 1Hz. They're fine at full power, but the slight voltage drop from the inverter as it draws from the battery is enough to affect the lights. We have lithium batteries, which should be able to supply 400A continuous, so I'm not sure why the voltage should drop, but perhaps that's normal. I need to make a call to both Victron and Dragonfly to see if there's something they can suggest to alleviate the problem. The strange thing is that the same thing happens on shore power, which makes me think the problem is internal to the inverter, which is actually a hybrid inverter/charger.

John, Oliver had no problem with welding on a bracket for our hydraulic brake actuator, and they stuck it about where you'd want to weld your crossbar for the stone stomper. Nor did they have any qualms about drilling holes for the electrical or hydraulic line supports. I doubt any true engineering input went into those decisions, of course.

I'm a fan of using multiple smaller containers for water. It's more of a pain to fill and transfer, but far less likely that you'll get to your destination to find that all your water has leaked out. If you're going to be far away from a water source, at least keep one container separate with enough water to get you out from where you've gone. That said, we use the Reliance 7 gallon containers as they seem to be the best compromise for us between size vs weight and storability. We also have one of the 8 gallon wheeled versions, which I believe I've seen that you carry as well. That's a really nice container for getting water from the central campsite spigots. We're thinking about getting a set of storage drawers made for our truck from Ainley Kennels. They'll add a 20 gallon water tank to the drawer set for a small fee - that plus a few Reliance containers would give you what you need, plus you get some nice storage drawers to boot. We also decided to carry separate drinking water since I found that the plastic taste from Oliver's tank is more than I can bear. The $1 jugs from Walmart taste fine and are easy to stow.

We found that the legs on the new Carefree awnings aren't strong enough to tie them down like you did. The clamps on the legs aren't strong enough to keep them extended and so they slowly start to collapse back down. I tried with limited success to rig up something using my REI poles, but there isn't a good attachment point on the awning so the poles kept popping out at the top no matter how much I tightened the tie downs. I'm going to try to work out a better attachment and also get some stronger tie straps that won't stretch like the paracord I had on hand. Hopefully that will do the trick since we weren't able to get much use from the awnings on this trip. Carefree also has a shade extender the slides into the main rail, same as the Fiamma, and that might help as well.