Overland

I wouldn't go that high. Michelin recommends 45 psi for our tires at the max GVWR of an elite 2. Most could go with 40 psi, which Michelin rates at 6600 lbs for twin axles.

I've seen those blocks floating around at the factory and always wondered if they were temporary supports for something or permanent. I guess they're permanent. Or not.

I want to know which one of you is going to get this puppy working on an Ollie - Truma Mover XT4

With that bar you really should be wearing a dinner jacket for cocktails. I'm curious about the ice maker - what brand and how well does it work?

Yes, Oliver installed them for us. No difference other than color - since it was a special order anyway, we asked for the silver casing.

Here's a slightly better photo -

We have the carefree awnings in solid charcoal acrylic, and we love both the fabric and the color. It feels like a really nice canvas, very tightly woven and seems like it will hold up for a long time. Definitely an upgrade from vinyl. You'll notice that their acrylic colors have duplicates, and that's because they source them from two different companies, Sunbrella and Recacril by Recasens, which I think is a Spanish company. I researched both and ended up choosing the Recacril, though either would have been fine, as they're almost identical. I ordered a swatch set of each from somewhere online (a few bucks per) so that we could compare the actual colors rather than rely on photos. Our color is R-164 Charcoal Grey, and it's a true dark charcoal. The Sunbrella charcoal is slightly lighter. If you want a medium to light grey, then you'd probably like the Cadet Grey from either line - those are #'s R-138 and 4630. It's a warm grey. The cooler version of that would be Argenta from recacril, R-123. Charcoal Tweed from either is also a nice fabric, basically alternating lines of black and tan. Here's a picture of ours with the dark charcoal - not the best photo of the awning but you get the idea - just solid charcoal grey.

I think it's really odd that they won't get you a compressor fridge, since a) it's an easier install for them, and b) according to Jason, they're considering offering it as a standard option, if not switching to it as standard. The trouble for you will be that if you want to swap them out later, the cutout for all of the compressor fridges that I'm familiar with is smaller than that of the Dometic. You might approach it a different way, and ask if the fridge can be deleted entirely, with a compressor fridge installed in service as a separate deal. I believe they're doing a fridge swap for someone else in service - ask SeaDawg if they're doing their swap themselves or if Oliver is doing it. You'll find that the email and phone call issue is a cultural/institutional problem at Oliver. Also, you'll find that only one person there, maybe two, ever writes anything down, so you'll end up going over things repeatedly with them. Document your phone conversations, email the minutes of the conversations to everyone involved, and send follow up emails every week. I'm terrible about all of that, but I think it's sound advice nonetheless.

Don't know for certain, but I think it was the early mid 200's. Mine is #256 - went through the line in the Aug/Sept timeframe, and has the white blinds. At least a few months production ahead of mine had them. Getting time we started an Ollie registry to keep track of model changes. On ours the solid shade is heavy enough that not all of them want to stay closed when flipped. It takes a few tries on a couple of them to get the blinds to stick closed, and occasionally even when we do get them to stick, the bottom shade will pop loose later and drop an inch or two. Not a huge deal, but I wish there was a way to adjust the tension.

If it were me, I'd have them deliver the trailer ready to use so that you can make sure everything works. The last thing you want is to be getting ready for your first trip in the spring and discover that your water heater leaks or something. Getting Oliver to walk you through the winterization process would be helpful as well.

The clear opening is 16" wide by 13 ¼" tall. Hope that helps.

I’d use those dimensions as a general guide since the walls are sloped and curved and there is some wiring around the back that might take up some of that space. The rubber flooring lays over that wiring so the floor essentially curves upward to meet the wall. I can get you the door dimensions later today if someone else doesn’t beat me to it.

I’ll take the 166mm on that site if any of you nice folk want to get me something for my birthday.

I’ll be interested to hear what you learn about a cabinet underneath. Seems borderline on ours. I do know there’s a ton of space behind the fridge, so you might talk to Jason about a storage hatch to replace the lower exterior vent. Could be useful for something I guess. I’ll see him next week when I take the trailer in to be finished so maybe I’ll ask about both. Btw, the new ASU unit has our fridge working now, but it’s still too cold on auto and everything directly beneath the freezer stayed frozen for the duration of our last trip. I’m getting a fan for the interior to see if that will distribute the temperature better and we’ll try it like that for a bit. On manual the fridge works fine but of course I’d like to get the ASU thing working if I can.

This is interesting because I've had two fuses blown, a breaker tripped, and a fried control board on my fridge that possibly occurred while at the factory. So I don't think it's the quality of the fuses, though of course that's possible. Instead, I'm suspicious that the circuits they use at the factory for plugging in the trailers aren't well isolated from spikes and other fluctuations that might come from the factory itself. This is just speculation of course, and maybe someone at Oliver can comment - but in hindsight, I do wish that I'd bought the built in surge protector rather than the portable one, just so I know that the trailer is protected when in service. I'm going to ask from now on when I go in to service that they use the surge protector, but since there's no guarantee that will always happen, I've begun to consider just calling it a loss and a lesson learned on the portable surge protector and shelling out for the built in one for this one and only reason.

Thanks - looks like a better unit all around and for the same price. Worth waiting for, or worth waiting for some good deals on the 2000 model. http://www.hondanews.com/releases/all-new-honda-eu2200i-super-quiet-series-generator-delivers-customers-more-power-for-work-home-or-play-with-the-same-legendary-honda-quality-and-reliability?query=Generator+

I had to break off the little safety bumpers on the back so that I can scoot it back for the door to close. We just have to make sure we pull it back out when using it so it doesn't cook the rear wall.

Yep, that's it.

15? We're planning on 40!

John, ours have insect screens on the inside. If yours doesn't, Oliver may have forgotten and you should ask them to install them the next time you take in your trailer. On my list of future modifications is a replacement for those things that can be closed or capped.

Thanks Hap. I've always liked that drainage mesh stuff. It would definitely breathe better and it would fully cover the mattress bottom. It's hard to beat the price of the RidgeRest pads though, and they'll also add a layer of insulation between the mattress and fiberglass so I think I'll stick with them. Plus I've already placed the order, lol. They'll be a few inches short in width, but hopefully that won't be an issue. My wife doesn't get the condensation either. I think it's because I sleep with my back up against the wall while she sleeps in the middle of the bed.

We've experienced condensation in three areas - under the mats in both the basement and closet, and on the side walls by the beds. The condensation under the mats isn't enough for me to worry about, other than making sure to pull those mats out when in storage and just making sure the floors underneath stay clean and no mold. By the sides of the bed is more of a problem, as I woke to wet bedding most every morning on this last trip. Cracking the window and running the vent fan on low helps, but not completely. I'm not sure what my solution is going to be. I'm going to get a couple of the large RidgeRest pads to put under the mattresses though, just in case there's condensation there, or enough from the walls to drip down.

On the way back from our Big Bend trip last week, we had no choice but to drive through the frigid temps in central TX and AR, and no chance of winterizing before doing so. Our solution was to run the furnace while travelling, which probably isn't advisable but did the trick for the curbside plumbing nonetheless, with the exception of the bath drain traps which began to freeze but fortunately didn't freeze solid. Had I propped open the bath door somehow, that probably wouldn't have happened. Our Truma is throwing a high current error code when on eco mode, so we had to drain that, but that's an easy step. I'll have to get Oliver to check that out - not thrilled at the idea that we might need our third Truma in two trips. The street side back corner is definitely the trouble spot. We drained the outside shower hose and water ports, but the mixer valve on the shower froze, and there was enough residual water in the intake ports to collect at the bottom with a little plug of ice in each that had to be melted down before we could winterize once back home. Sticking our Vornado heater in the basement for a few hours unfroze those lines no problem. I had Oliver install a 120 in the basement for a little marine compartment heater, for just this reason - unfortunately, that's still something on the list to buy. But I think a better solution, or at least a good supplement, will be to vent that whole area to the furnace side. I'm going to get three decent sized return air vents from Lowes and install one on each of the divider walls in the basement. That should get some heat from the furnace into the basement and then through to the outside shower connection. Then I'll install one on the floor over the water inlet lines to allow some heat down there. I probably won't get a ton of airflow, but it's a cheap and easy mod and any warm air is better than none. I can run the compartment heater when plugged in, or off the inverter in a pinch, and that should really heat up that whole space.

If you don't have a rack yet, you might also consider the 1-up roof mount rack. They're top of the line racks and will fit the Oliver rack without any modification apart from drilling the holes to secure it. Just order the flush mount kit and it should work fine. Their racks run $189 each, so for two they're comparable to the Thule. They sell a fat bike conversion spacer for $34, and since they're two separate racks, you can space them apart however far you want.

Thanks - we'll be 'roughing it' out in the backcountry. I'm hoping to get a site that's remote, but not so much so that it takes 30 minutes on gravel to get to the ring road. We're hoping this time that we'll have a chance to drive some of the rougher trails and explore the surrounding area. I'd like to check out the state park next door.