John E Davies

I'm glad your H2 has been working for you, but please keep a very close eye on the bags and replace all of them when one starts to degrade or you notice the pump running longer than normal. Once your pump gets worn, it is a very expensive fix. Have you ever been bothered offroad by the width? Is it a problem on forest tracks? I'm sure it is fantastic in the desert, but how about the Idaho woods? I love the big GM engines but I am not enamored of the general design and build quality and the interiors..... how is your truck holding up, and how many miles on it? Any steering or drive train problems? What's the towing experience like? How many squeeks in your interior? The Hummer H1 and H2 trucks are a testimony to the effectiveness of steep approach and departure angles, monster rubber and plentiful ground clearance in negotiating obstacles offroad. Coming from a Series 80 with three electric lockers and no traction control, the brute force approach is very tempting.... http://www.fourwheeler.com/vehicle-reviews/129-0608-2005-hummer-h2-sut/ http://www.autoblog.com/2008/10/15/autoblog-comparo-moving-mountains-toyota-landcruiser-vs-humm/ Bottom line: it's all about correct tires... Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

Whatever the posted maximum trailer towing speed. The tires are good for any legal and sane speeds. I personally would keep it at 65, but that is for fuel consumption more than safety. I certainly would never exceed 70. I cringe when I see big diesel pickups flying down the freeway at 80+ mph with a trailer in tow. It is very risky. John Davies Spokane WA

I already have a P3 and it is a cheap and great unit, but it is ugly as sin and bangs whatever body part is near it, and it is a theft target. That Aussie unit mounts remotely any old place and has a simple rotary knob in the dash. Air suspension is garbage if a shock or pump fails miles from anywhere or a line develops a leak, and replacement cost can be well over $1000 per shock, depending on what manufacturer we are talking about. A Grand Cherokee Overland POS suspension air pump is $1200 (discounted!) and very failure prone. Land Rovers have cheaper shocks but even higher failure rates..... The Lexus LX570 (pimped out LC) has adjustable hydraulic suspension and that is ghastly expensive to fix. If you don't venture far offroad, have a warranty, and are prepared to live with CELs and flaky behavior, adjustable suspension is great. All you have to do is read the enthusiast forums to see how many people junk their air shocks (and also GM style magneto-hydraulic ones like in Caddies, Corvettes and MDXes) when one inevitably fails. They are a long term nightmare. Raising air shocks to full extension is good for getting over a rock or getting out of a high centered snow bank, but it ruins the ride because you no longer have any down travel, so the suspension is always topping out . It makes marginal articulation even worse. It is definitely cool to watch, and I would like it for a street truck, but not for rig that might be six hours or more from assistance. Simple is better in this case. Do you have an opinion of the 200? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Can anyone comment on this SUV for towing in the mountainous West? How about a Tundra owner? Can you comment on the drivetrain? Towing mpgs? The 2008 and later Cruiser has the wonderful 5.7 liter V8 rated at 381 bhp and 401 ft lbs, six speed auto, max tow is 8500 pounds. 90% of peak torque is at 2200 rpm. Here is a great thread about it... https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/towing-with-a-200-series-toyota-land-cruiser Here's my background, and the reason for asking. I owned a very heavily modified 1996 Series 80 for 13 years but my son has been driving it for the last year, and a month ago he totalled it on an nasty icy stretch of I90 in central WA. I love Land Cruisers of all kinds, but for some reason I never realized that the new trucks had the tow rating bumped up so darned high. I think it would pull a tandem Ollie without working hard, and be a _much_ more capable and civilized ride the rest of the time, compared to my Ram 3500, which my wife loathes. To be frank, there is not ONE feature of the truck that she likes except for the superb Corbeau suspension seats I installed, once she manages to get into hers... She does like Land Cruisers, a lot, and that is an important consideration. The plan is to park the Ollie at a camp site in the National Forest, then explore the surrounding area with the tow vehicle. While the Ram will carry you to your destination, it will destroy your kidneys in the process, not fit in many tight places and will get stuck easily. It is just not a pleasant place to be on anything but perfectly smooth pavement. The LC would make a fantastic back country explorer and a great daily driver... You could take it over a ledgey 10,000 ft Colorado primitive pass, do the Alpine Loop, or explore the White Rim Road, and you won't get beat up or stranded. Prices are becoming reasonable for a five or six year old used one. With proper mauntenance these will go 300,000 miles and 20 years with minimal issues. Besides sucking gas. I would need to use an Anderson or other equalizing hitch and airbags. Otherwise it won't need anything except a brake control. I would probably go with one of these new (and highly regarded) remote mounted ones from Oz: ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/REDARC-TOW-PRO-ELITE-ELECTRIC-REMOTE-EBRH-ACCV2-TOWPRO-BRAKE-CONTROLLER-EBRH-C-B-/221714079748 Comments are very welcome. John Davies Spokane WA

Since it appears that my request for a factory lift is going nowhere, I will have to do it myself. It will be a while, and I will definitely try out the stock suspension first on unimproved forest roads. I'll fully document the lift process, when I do it. I forgot earlier, I also plan to carry a couple of replacement spring packs. They are inexpensive and if you bolt them to the frame somewhere, out of the way, they take up no cargo space and they are there when you really, really need one. I've had a full set bolted to the back bumper of my utility trailer for 13 years and have never needed one. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension/Universal-Group/SP-218275.html Stories from the Outback: "I reckon over the years I must have seen at least 50 trailers broken down on the side of the road while out touring, I know a few personally that have issues and have spoken to a few on my travels that have suffered a breakdown. In every single case I can think of it was suspension / Axle problems." ... http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27716-Camper-trailers-What-stops-them&s=2904af9b8126a863ef26d5ef4a1a515f Good general info about leaf springs and maintenance: .... http://www.suspensionspecialists.com/tech0004.html John Davies Spokane WA

Please check out a freshly washed Oliver in person before you decide that they are blah. I don't think they photograph well. When I first saw one up close in good lighting I was stuck by how beautiful it is. I am deleting the swoosh side graphics on my upcoming Elite II, but I am going to leave the sides blank (pristine) to match my Ram 3500. Here is some general wrap info. .... http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/g1105/how-to-vinyl-wrap-a-car/ Tina, while your design is not my style, I think it is wonderful that you did this. Don't take any negative comments too seriously. You can't please everybody, nor should you expect to. John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks for posting. Did you have any trouble getting the sealant to break free? I have ordered a round inspection port for this area, to be located in the closet inner wall. It will be too small to work through, but it should be useful for checking things out with a flashlight and mirror. FYI: If you have a duct that slips off the outlet, you can always drill two holes at 180 degrees and install a couple of small sheet metal screws or pop rivets through both parts. Wrap tape over the top and you have a forever joint (for your forever trailer). Stainless screws are best, and never do this for a home dryer duct, since it will catch lint, which becomes a restriction and fire hazard.. John Davies Spokane WA

I suppose a Dyson vacuum would work, but you are going to have to run the inverter and it will suck a huge amount of power..... and how would you slow it down? If it is sunny and your battery bank is already charged, it might work OK. I don't think the vac's motor would like running non stop for more than say 30 minutes. You are likely to burn it out in a longer period. On an overcast day or in darkness, you are going to drain your batteries pretty fast. If you don't have solar, then don't even consider this! A simple 12 volt DC bilge blower uses less than 3 amps. ... https://www.amazon.com/Rule-140-Marine-Blower-3-Inch/dp/B000O8AZ8K The areas I explore sometimes have many miles of dusty forest and ranch roads. I need a system that will run all day long if needed. John Davies Spokane WA

If you want to learn everything about dust filtration, here is a humongous Donaldson catalog. Starting on page 164 is info on accessories like pre-filtration (particle separators). They also have a large selection of ducting and weird elbows and reducers. https://www.donaldson.com/content/dam/donaldson/engine-hydraulics-bulk/catalogs/air-intake/north-america/F110027-ENG/Air-Intake-Systems-Product-Guide.pdf I think a Top Spin pre filter that self ejects 85% of incoming dust would work at the top of a vertical 3 inch intake stack.... The more efficient units require exhaust scavenging to suck out the extra dirt, which is hardly possible with a system using a small electric fan. The thing I don't know is, would a Top Spin continue to work at say 40 mph down a smooth dusty road? They are designed for slow moving construction equipment. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DONALDSON-TOP-SPIN-PRE-CLEANER-H002437-/151584855001 Maybe a forward facing (ram air) snorkel with a foam pre-filter over the inlet would be best, though the oiled foam is a PITA to service and it is even uglier.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNI-FILTER-Snorkel-Ram-Head-Safari-Pre-Filter-Universal-/232179971634?hash=item360f013632:g:-KEAAOSw241YfVpG&vxp=mtr John Davies Spokane WA

Well, shipping from Oz has to be pretty costly. I bet they could combine a big order to reduce that part of the equation a little.... However, I personally don't think you are going to find more than a very small handful of Ollie owners who would be even remotely interested.... i found a shipping calculator. I guessed 30 pounds shipping weight. The steel support bars must be fairly heavy, as is the fabric itself. John Davies Spokane WA

You can only get a Stone Stomper from Australia. They are very willing to ship here. If you send them an enquiry, they will send you a complete info packet by email, including how to measure, with lots of pictures and diagrams. I asked if I could publish those pics but they would rather not have them floating around the Internet for anybody to copy. I don't think there is any harm in posting this basic information (note that this is from January 2016 so the prices might have changed a little.) Current exchange rate is USD 0.76 equals AUD 1.00. Thank you for your enquiry on our stone guards. That’s fine for us to deliver to you as we have sent to the US and SA before, all up delivered you would be looking at $840 AUD delivered. {EDIT US$635} Below is the information we need to make a custom made Stone Stomper. We have 3 different bar options that fit on the tongue of the tow bar. Option 1 - Angled. This is our standard angled bracket that fits under the tow ball/Treg/Trigg/Hyland/DO35 also a special bracket for the Auto Coupler. Option 2 - Post. The bar is mounted to the top hole of the Hayman Reese post if it is free. Option 3 – Standard. The bar clamps around the shank of the tow bar tongue, (the solid part on Hayman Reese or tow bar tongue). Shank With this option you need a minimum of 41mm clearance on the shank when fitted to the tow bar. Option 3 Adjustable. The bar clamps around the shank of the tow bar tongue, (the solid part on Hayman Reese) for MKI and MKII Shank If the A frame length is over 1.8m we like to add support pockets to the sides of the mesh, this allows for pole to be clamped to the top of the A frame supporting the sides of the mesh. The bar is not supplied in the kit and can be from 25x25x1.6mm steel, timber dowel or plastic tube as it only holds up the mesh on tight turns. You may not need the support bar but it’s easier for us to stitch the pockets on during manufacture. We also add on some caravans and camper trailers vinyl inserts, these vinyl inserts can be in areas such as the ends of Hayman Reese bars or brake levers that may hang below the A frame. These are at an extra cost if needed. {EDIT AUS$35 each) They need three measurements to make the guard correctly (length, width at tow vehicle, and width at the trailer, measured _underneath_ the frame in an arc, as well as location of any openings for fixed jack or equalizing chains. Typically they have you screw a steel angle bracket on the lower front corners of the trailer ... sorry ... caravan to provide rear locations to attach the shackles that hold up the canvas. I don't think that would look especially good on an Ollie. I plan to fabricate an aluminum cross bar that will lie on top of the A Frame and extend out to each "corner" of the body. If the center part is stout and hollow, you could make the two outer parts telescope or be removable for storage (or replacement if one side got damaged). Until I can poke around in my own trailer, I am guessing a little since all I have to go by is pictures. I think that a Stone Stomper would be a valuable addition for anybody venturing off pavement, even a little. Send them an email, and they will get you lots of pics and stuff to study. Please respect their wishes and do not post their special pics without permission. Here is a nice high res image picked at random from the Web for you guys to look at: Here's a promotional video. At the 30 second mark, look how clear the air is in front of the trailer! That's where I want a fresh air inlet, up high. Finally, it protects the rear of your TV from stones bouncing off the trailer and into your rear hatch and glass. Regular mud flaps, even Rock Tamers, won't do that. From an Expedition Portal stone guard thread ... http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/150886-Tongue-mounted-stone-guards? Also, ask Stone Stomper if they can arrange for somebody to manufacture these here in the USA under license. I suggest: the Oliver Trailer Company. stonestomper@bigpond.com John Davies Spokane WA

Safari snorkel with pre filter, used passively (ram air while moving). 2200 km off pavement and no dust got through. ... How to design seals that are effective. .... http://info.kimberleykampers.com/travelling-easily-in-dust-and-mud-with-an-off-road-camper-trailer/ Kimberley Kruiser's exotic Always Positive compressed air pressurization system. ... http://www.kimberleykruiser.com/anti-travel-dust As a reasonable and cost effective compromise, how about: Mount an automotive engine air filter box in the propane compartment. Pick one with a large, inexpensive and easy to find filter element. Mount an inline bilge blower motor there, after the filter, to route air through a duct into the bottom of the closet. Mount a vertical 3 inch white heavy wall pvc pipe, extending up close to the roofline, with a Donaldson cyclonic dust separator at the top. The entire intake stack could be uncoupled from the airbox when not needed and the propane cover hole sealed with a plate. There would have to be some sort of permanent bracket up high, otherwise none of the parts would be visible. You could use the bracket to mount your flag pole holder, during an extended camp stay ;) Parts for this would be under $200, depending on how much you paid for the junkyard airbox. This ductwork could all be designed and streamlined into the body of the Oliver, for a future Legacy Expedition model. The key is dust seperation at the very start, and an intake location in the cleanest air possible, for long filter life. I also think this would look cool, but I am a little strange in this regard. You can't draw air directly from inside the propane area, due to risk of propane leakage into the cabin, plus it is a fairly dirty area. With continous positive pressure you don't have to worry about sealing up everything tight. Even the belly weep holes are fine, the Ollie is already a tight enough construction. Plus the system won't dump dirt inside the cabin like a roof vent filter would, during a filter change. John Davies. Spokane WA

Here is a link to good quality pleated furnace filters at a great factory direct price. I have used them for many years in my home. They offer thinner, dual media filters (coarse pre-filter and fine electrostatic filter with one internal frame). They make a 14 x 14 x 1/2 for specialty applications like RVs, and all their filters are undersized from the named size by half an inch around the outside (thickness is true), so there you go! You're welcome! It should fit with no trimming. "Nordic Pure is very proud of this exciting product that we offer in most all sizes! The Half Inch AC Furnace Air Filter gives our customers the best of both worlds. The first layer has a high capacity, which means it will capture and hold large air particles. This feature prolongs the life of the air filter and enables the second, more efficient, layer to capture the smaller air particles. Half Inch AC Furnace Air Filters are especially great for apartments, campers, boats, buses, RVs, AC and heater window units, and any air system that requires half inch (1/2") air filters." The higher the MERV rating of the filter, the better - a higher number traps smaller particles - but it will clog more quickly and work the fan harder as it gets dirty. I think you might need to experiment with different versions, but I would pick something in the middle of the range to start... The higher MERV filters do NOT restrict more when clean. https://nordicpure.com/AIR/item/14-x-14-x-12-Half-Inch-Air-Filter?ps=MSw2NzMx I wonder if a plugged up filter might overheat the fan? Will the dust destroy the fan bearings? How much is a replacement? A pull through design would be better for fan life. The filter will shed dust a little when you remove a dirty one, but it ought to be minimal due to the small size. If you were at home, you could have a running shop vac nearby to deal with spills. If you have a compressed air source on your TV or at home, you could turn on the vent in the normal exhaust direction and gently blow the filter. Much of the dirt should come off and exit onto the roof. How neat is that!? Cool, this looks promising. John Davies Spokane WA

That red Utah dust is nasty around electrical stuff due to the very high iron oxide content - it is conductive, to a degree. After spending a week around Moab my truck was overwhelmed with it, and a year later I had to fix some badly corroded wire splices at the trailer wiring, due, I suspect, to moisture over the winter turning the red dust to a conductive mud. This is a great reason to always use heat shrink splices (environmental ones), for any connection outside the dry areas of the body. Lizard tracks in the dust on my back bumper...... White Rim Road, Canyonlands, East part.... I do love that place! Click for really big picture. Why are the rocks red? http://files.geology.utah.gov/online/pdf/pi-77.pdf John Davies Spokane WA

My approach with my May Ollie will be: Use a Stone Stomper gravel guard. It reportedly really cuts down on the dust problem by blocking much of the big low pressure gap between truck and the front of the trailer. Not to mention blocking nearly all of the thrown rocks. If that isn't enough, I'll fabicate filters or external covers for the side vents, and maybe add a filter to the roof vent as is being discussed here and run the fan in reverse. The air up top should be pretty clean, until you roll to a stop, at least. Off-road trucks and Jeeps often use snorkles for this very reason. A dust seperator mounted on top of an intake pipe, with a small dc fan drawing in air through an automotive airbox with an inexpensive paper filter, should be _very_ effective. You could mount it in the top of the closet, if you didn't mind losing some shelf space. But maybe it would not be needed.... https://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/filters/products/air-intake/accessories/pre-cleaners.html I started a thread about this topic at Expedition Portal - http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/153642-Fabricating-a-powered-dust-filtration-system I drive on Idaho NFS roads and they can be horribly dusty by the middle of the summer. BTW, There is an earlier thread here about dust but nobody contributed. I am very glad that the topic is getting discussed now - thanks! John Davies Spokane WA

I hope the resins are fire retardant, but assuming that they are because of the fiber granite samples is a mistake. I would be astonished if they manufacture those panels. I am sure that someone there could get the vendor's MSDS info sheet if you asked. Plus they might give us some info on their own fiberglass build standards, in terms of fire safety. Hallmark truck campers have a very expensive Coosa option for the interior furniture. They definitely don't make it: ... http://coosacomposites.com I would like to see the source info for the fancy Oliver countertops..... Good thread, thanks for starting it. John Davies Spokane WA

I ran across this at Home Depot today and brought it home. It was $20 off the regular price. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Werner-13-ft-Aluminum-Telescoping-Multi-Position-Ladder-with-300-lb-Load-Capacity-Type-IA-Duty-Rating-MT-13/100658842 I haven't tried it on an Ollie yet, because mine isn't built ;( I did try all the combinations in my garage and I am very impressed. It is heavy, but very stoutly made. If you are a large person you will not feel like it is going to spit you onto the ground. If you wanted to, you could separate and leave at home, the two bottom extension parts and have a very nice lightweight fixed height 3 ft A frame/ 6 ft straight ladder. I think that part would fit in the closet, but I am guessing. This guy shows all the features. Manual: http://pdf.lowes.com/operatingguides/051751065114_oper.pdf I plan to carry this fully folded up in the bed of my pickup so the weight is a non issue. I think it is going to be very handy both at home and while traveling with my future Ollie. Werner makes very good ladders. John Davies Spokane WA

Words fail me..... http://www.messynessychic.com/2017/01/24/and-now-a-diy-steampunk-trailer-fit-for-travelling-the-world-in-80-days/ John Davies Spokane WA

Randy, I gave most of my many reasons for wanting a full sized spare at the bottom of that other thread I linked you to. In addition to actually getting some use out of the spare, it will act as a second bumper in back. If I smack a tree while reversing, it won't wreck the cover or license plate unit. That glass cover is a little vulnerable, don't you think? Any idea how much a replacement one costs? I don't. I also think that the trailer will look less sissy with an exposed tire on the back. Don't get me wrong, I think it is a beautiful trailer, but it is also very feminine. A naked tire and a 4 inch lifted suspension should fix that, a little.... LOL. Oh yeah, I have an insulated and sheet rocked RV bay, AKA The Hanger Deck, in my new house, ready and waiting to store my future Ollie. UV (and long term weather exposure) will be a non issue for all the tires, as well as the rest of the trailer. John Davies Spokane WA

Get a 1/2 inch drive, 150 ft lb torque wrench. You will encounter wheels with higher torque values. A torque wrench is most accurate in the middle of its range, so you don't want to use a 100 ft lb wrench on a 95 ft lb nut. Plus the bigger wrenches offer more leverage. You can pick up a smaller 3/8 inch and 1/4 inch one as needed later for small stuff; and maybe a 10 to 50 inch pound torque screwdriver for little screws, especially if you work on firearms or fishing reels or similar delicate things.. NEVER use a torque wrench to remove stuff - you can over-stress it and cause damage. Don't use it to run down the fastener, only to tighten to the final value. Don't ever tighten beyond its maximum limit, and never put a cheater bar on one. You have to hold it in the middle of the grip area for it to work accurately. It is a precision instrument that needs to be used with care. A click type is by far the easiest to use. If you drop it, it may go out of calibration. Store it in a drawer or in the case it comes in. Some shops like aircraft repair stations have requirements that their torque wrenches are recalibrated routinely and often. For a car or trailer, close with an out of calibration wrench is good enough. Any POS Harbor Freight wrench will be way more accurate than your bare hands. People who say that they can correctly tighten a bolt without using a torque wrench are mistaken. When I went through A & P school we had a display of lots of different sized fasteners threaded into a steel plate. We were all told to torque them by hand to "tight". Then we did it again with different torque wrenches. Except for one or two lucky guys, everybody who did not use a wrench either over-tightened or under-tightened all the fasteners. By a lot.... I cringe when I watch a You Tube video of a mechanic working on suspension, drivetrain or engine parts without any sign of a torque wrench, especially when I see him banging the bolts tight with a big impact gun. It is stupid, wrong, unsafe and potentially dangerous to mis-torque critical fasteners. The exception is tire shops that install lug nuts with an impact gun, as long as they use a torque stick (limiter extension) set at a lower torque, then follow up with by hand with a torque wrench to the final value. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6613/torque-wrench-101-how-to-get-the-right-amount-of-force/ John Davies Spokane WA

I sure hope the spare is alloy, like all the spare wheels in the past have been. Why would they change? http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/changing-tires-on-ollie/ I plan to store my cover away and drive with the spare naked and exposed to the world.... John Davies Spokane WA

Every vehicle I own has one of these in the trunk or where-ever. It is extremely stout at full length, but telescopes to a compact length for storage. I strongly recommend this, just be careful tightening so you don't over do it. A torqye wrench is advised for that. One of the four sockets included will fit your Oillie, I think. https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-1721-Telescoping-Wrench/dp/B000CMJ2KU John Davies Spokane WA

You can cut corners on quality with lots of stuff, but a ladder is a critical safety item. Do not buy no-name junk! One fall from six feet off the ground can maim you for life or worse. It is simply not worth the risk. Stay safe. OTH: I bought a brand new $300 Werner commercial grade fiberglass ladder that is cracked right though a main beam. There was evidence of distress on the inside of the C channel, and a 14 inch crack is what I found when I peeled off the huge label from the other side. I caught the damage in time that it was not a problem, but returns can be agravating and time consuming.... You need to be really careful with any ladder, and inspect it before every use. Buying from Amazon is a very good idea since they have such a good return system. John Davies Spokane WA

I'm glad you live in a benign climate where that might be adequate. The entire hat would be gone within a month where I live. It gets breezy and the shape makes for a perfect parasail. If you do get a strong gale, what damage will it inflict on the trailer, and are you ready to accept that risk, expense and hassle? If it does depart, will it wreck your panels or AC? Even secured with nylon straps, you will get movement and pounding. If by nylon ropes the motion will be worse. You will definitely get chafing of the gel coat everywhere there is contact underneath. I advise a better setup entirely, for piece of mind if nothing else. Sorry, no offense intended, but your solution does not impress. Your Ollie is an expensive investment that deserves protection that does not sit on top like a floppy sou'wester hat. John Davies Spokane WA

Sorry, this is a duplicate, please delete if possible. The other thread doesn't mention Free in the title so I ignored it... You won't find a better price. Order ASAP since there is no indication on when the offer expires. QUOTE For all of 2017 this pass gives you unlimited opportunities to enjoy National Parks, National Marine Conservation Areas and National Historic Sites across the country! Please note: You only need to order one pass for your group or family if you are all travelling together. A 2017 Discovery Pass is valid for everyone arriving in the same vehicle at a national park, or arriving together at a marine conservation area or historic site. The Discovery Pass is only accepted at national historic sites which are operated by Parks Canada. Activities such as tours or parking that normally carry a separate fee may not be covered by the Discovery Pass. Camping fees are not included with the Discovery Pass Validity Period: January 1st 2017 to December 31st 2017. Display: The 2017 Discovery Pass must be hung from the rear view mirror of the vehicle facing forward or it can be placed on the front driver side dashboard facing up. UNQUOTE I haven't been into Canada in 30 years for personal reasons since I quit boating in Puget Sound , but plan to take the future Ollie next summer to do a little exploring around Nelson BC. (In spite of the persisting personal reasons.) John Davies Spokane WA