John E Davies

Found this, it indicated that the anode can look pretty darn scruffy and still be entirely serviceable. Just because it has some holes, don't toss it. They are not cheap. EDIT 08/29/19 ... this old thread lost its picture. http://www.chinookrvclub.net/careandmaint/anoderodinfo.pdf John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks for the comments: From the Owners Manual that Buzzy posted: "The AquaGo comfort and AquaGo comfort plus models are equipped with a circulation pump. The circulation pump as well as the burner are switched on automatically by the control unit in order to keep the water temperature above a certain level (102 °F (39 °C) in “Comfort” mode and 41 °F (5 °C) in “ECO” mode). The AquaGo comfort and AquaGo comfort plus models permit operation without the risk of freezing even at temperatures of -4 °F (-20 °C)." It does not mention how much propane is used to keep the tank from freezing. Winterization is dead easy - close the two isolation valves and open the drain lever. Cleaning the sediment (inlet) filter looks dead simple, you just pop the lever, pull it out and flush with clean water. Possibly change the o-rings. However, descaling is much more of an issue than a conventional type: "Decalcifying: Only use approved substances to decalcify the Truma AquaGoTM instant water heater to avoid damage and the voiding of your warranty. Never use vinegar. Call your local AquaGo dealer or service provider or see www.truma.net for more information. – The use of non-Truma-approved sub- stances for decalcification can cause chemical reactions and produce hazardous substances that could enter the drinking water supply." The recommended cleaning agents are three different Truma AquaStar products:..... which unfortunately seems to be completely unavailable and also discontinued: ..... http://www.caravanclub.co.uk/community/discussions/information,-technical-tips-advice/parts-accessories/aquastar--water-treatment/rt/1436600/ .... Maybe there is a substitute (approved) descaler that we could buy in the USA? The troubleshooting guide says that if the hot water temp is lower than 120F you must have the unit decalcified by a certified service technician. It does not say what that requires - perhaps major disassembly? Maybe they have the chemicals? This is a HUGE issue for me! A typical tank type heater is dead simple to clean out using high pressure water and a clean-out wand, through the anode opening. The Truma has a lot of inaccessible passages that require chemical cleaning: dissolving the crud instead of forcible flushing it away. I tried to find out the cost of spare parts, by Googling the part numbers for the circulation pump and the vent blower. I did not get any results. If I had to guess, based on my experience with German home appliances, I would say up to $200 each, and they are probably only available as a complete unit (not as a rebuild kit or individual parts). The Dealer Search turned up a fairly large number of Truma dealers in the USA. There was no way of telling if they have complete repair/ overhaul capabilities and if they have parts on hand. .... https://www.truma.com/int/en/home/dealer-search.php Here is the layout: Here is a traditional "old tech" Suburban water heater in comparison: I hope we can gather more information about some of these maintenance and long term ownership issues, such as cost of parts and repairs, how long it takes to get special ordered parts (do they have a USA warehouse yet?). Can we try to post this info in this thread, for continuity? At this stage I would not buy this heater, it is too much of a high-tech unknown for my risk-averse nature. I am afraid that it will prove to be a long term expensive ordeal, like owning a German car past the warranty period. A conventional heater can be serviced and repaired in your driveway for a few dollars and any dealer can fix it, or you can just buy a brand new one for $300 and throw the old broken one away. The Truma just does not compute! I don't get it.... John Davies Spokane WA

http://winnebagolife.com/2016/01/what-a-truma-is-and-why-you-want-one https://www.truma.com/us/en/water-systems/aquago.php From the specs page there: "Simple maintenance with "Easy Drain Lever" - Integrated water diverter eliminates water stains on vehicle exterior - Reusable filter cartridge reduces scale particulates" Can we please discuss this heater? Which version does Oliver supply? How much does it cost? How easy is it to remove and clean the filter? How often is this required? Is there any other regular maintenance required? Is it dealer serviceable? (Do most regular small town RV shops know how to fix it?) Are replacement parts _readily_ available and reasonably affordable? (This is very high on my list of pluses, this is German made, after all!) What is the winterization process? How well does it function in extreme cold? Does it perform as well as it is hyped? Do you get any cold slugs of water? Does it waste less water than a tank type? (This is way more important to me than propane use.) If you have one, are you happy with your choice and can you comment on specific benefits or problems? Anything else you can add that would help prospective buyers decide if this is a good investment? Can someone post a link to the owner's manual download? OK, I guess that is enough. To conclude I post a link to a (funny, biased and a little NSFW) video about residential tankless: .... My Tech side says that I want one. My Scrooge side says that it will cost me an arm and a leg in the long run..... Usually the latter wins the arguments, which is why I won't own a diesel truck with a modern emissions system. I prefer simple and proven technology, until the alternative is proven to be better. John Davies Spokane WA

That amount of corrosion is not unusual. There is a steel rod running up through the middle of the alloy, so you don't need to worry about it breaking off. It is SUPPOSED to corrode, in order to protect the tank. If it were my decision I would screw that anode back in for one more season. Water heaters can have some really weird issues. One possible problem is stray electrical micro-currents that might be trickling through your unit. If there is not one installed, you can install a heavy ground wire from one or two spots on the tank or frame and run that to a good trailer ground point. Use large gauge wire to eliminate any voltage drop. http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/2665.html Another is bad water, but the only way to know that for sure is to do some research. Hooking up to local well water is always a crapshoot. I suggest that you run the water at the spigot for a few seconds and then take a sample in a glass to inspect and taste before you blindly connect it to your water system. If it doesn't look good, don't connect unless there is no other choice (low tank level). You do use a filter, correct? Your heater is functionally a residential unit scaled down and flipped on its side. There is a ton of useful info at this webpage: http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/index.html I am a huge fan of this product, but to the best of my knowledge there is not one available for an RV unit. Maybe, maybe not...? http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/OrderPages/Power-Anode-Coupling.html I was having constant sediment and anode problems with a residential gas heater (using softened water) and this item cured the problem 100%, and it remained untouched in the tank for 13 years. It was still working fine when I sold the house and the 14 year old heater was in A+ condition with no rust and minimal sediment. I did drain it every six months, to be sure. If somebody can come up with one of these that will work in an RV unit, they will become multi-millionaires. Imagine never having to replace the rod, just drain and flush periodically! Good luck. The worst thing you can do is to not maintain the heater! John Davies Spokane WA

Nice pics! This park is definitely on my bucket list, but I am seldom so far south.... Did you have any worries about bad guys crossing from Mexico? There are without dispute drugs coming through that area, though due to the remoteness, most go un-noticed and/or unreported.... How about bears and mountain lions? Obviously the popular areas and normal campgrounds are pretty safe. Did you in any way feel uncomfortable parking and hiking in the remote areas, especially low down along the river or along the "4wd recommended" backcountry dirt routes? Did you carry bear spray or a handgun? http://www.hellonearthblog.com/2013/05/big-bend-national-park-drug-war.html The BBNP website has a warning page about these concerns, but like all National Parks, it tries very hard to downplay any risk to visitors ("look big and wave your arms, throw rocks or sticks"). It more or less just says to be vigilant and report any problems. As if your cell phone will work at the bottom of a remote canyon. I'm not a big worrier, but I am a "just in case" preparer..... Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Your wish is my command, sort of. Look at the hovering toolbar to the right of every page. Select the third one down and it will show the topics that have new posts, from all sections of the forum. Select the topic and scroll to the bottom. The fourth one lets you see the Activity Wall which has additional stuff like new members and new posts, in order of the date and time (not displayed by sub-forum). Either button will work but I tend to use the third one at each visit here. Or you can select those items using the Forum drop down menu up top. As always, you might not see a new entry unless you refresh the page in your browser...... John Davies Spokane WA

Nick, in addition to making the system more robust and long lived (in exchange for extra time required to keep the bushings greased) it really quiets the trailer and softens the ride. With a tandem, you get the added benefit of the squishy rubber equalizers which remove much of the little road vibrations. Even brand new regular suspensions can be noisy. If you have ever heard a tandem trailer making tight turns, you will have heard all kinds of unsettling creaks, groans, pops and bangs as the dry pieces shift and shudder against each other. An upgraded, lubricated suspension is relatively silent and will not wake the entire campground if you want to make an early morning getaway. For a single axle trailer, the noises are simply not a problem since the axles don't get binding forces when you are turning sharply. The OEM suspension is garbage, the upgrade makes it serviceable, but not great. I do hope that buyers will keep pushing Oliver to offer a truly a high performance longer travel suspension (NO BREAKAGE PRONE LEAF SPRINGS) as an option. John Davies Spokane WA

I bought that c clamp set quite a few months ago to replace the ball joints in my Ram 3500, but I am having a hard time getting motivated to do that unpleasant repair. How do you like the tool and do you have any constructive comments for me? Or even the other kind. Any complaints? John Davies Spokane WA

I really do not care for the way Search displays its results. For example, "Dexter EZ Flex" returns 33 posts, but they are displayed in their entirety, complete with pictures. So you end up scrolling and scrolling .... and scrolling. As a result, I never use it! Search really needs to show just the link and perhaps the first four or five lines of text (not a quote). This way you can easily see all the posts and get an idea of the content. Also there needs to be an advanced version so we can search for more specific terms, such as the user name or a date range. If this already exists, point me to it please! The need for a FAQ is self explanatory as the number of members continues to grow and old questions get asked. I also think some additional sub forums would be very beneficial, for example "Wheels, tires and suspension". If the Search function was better this would not be needed. Thanks John Davies Spokane WA

There are some blanks spots where there were owners shown on the old map. Are you relying on those owners to personally update the new map? The reason I ask is that the two I know of who are located closest to me in the Washington/ Idaho area are very willing to show their trailers, but do not participate in this forum. How are you planning on dealing with this issue? OTH I cannot imagine any Ollie owner not wanting to hang out here to benefit from the ever growing knowledge base and friendly, mature conversations. John Davies Spokane WA

Bill, that is simply brilliant. I hate wrestling with a grease gun while lying on my back under a vehicle. I eventually bought a high end pneumatic gun and am very pleased, but that ties me to a compressed air source. Note to grease gun shoppers. Do not cheap out here - buy an expensive model. The really cheap ones are frustrating, poorly assembled and designed, leak prone, will quit working in the middle of a job, and they make you say bad words. John Davies Spokane WA

The campground is very close to the highway. Is there very much traffic noise? I'm guessing it is not a very busy route. I love old (maintained) military bases. This looks like a good one. There are a number of these near Seattle that are great (Fort Casey State Park being my big favorite) but they date from 1900 so they do not have that neat "old west" flavor. Here is the campground there, with the bluffs, fortification, parade ground and big guns to the rear.... Can someone recommend other similar _intact_ historic fort/ army base/ military installations in the west half of the country that also offer camping? I don't mean just a museum or battleship, but intact bases. Is there a website listing these spots? Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA

So, are you more or less servicing them at 10K intervals? Can you comment on how often you need to replace or overhaul the brakes, suspension bushings, tires etc? Ever had a spring break? Hub bearings blow up? Tire blowout? Would you consider going to a different type of suspension if you had to do a major rebuild, like the Timbren Silent Ride, to reduce servicing costs and improve the ride? You seem like an ideal owner for doing a test on an alternative hi-grade suspension, so we can all learn from your experience. Seriously, your high mileage is very impressive and a great testament to Oliver's build quality. John Davies Spokane WA

Buzzy, don't in any way get discouraged by these last comments. National Parks are certainly cool, but there are millions of acres of virtually unoccupied land available for exploring. Even in Utah, with all it's big parks (and hoards of tourists) you can easily get off the grid in stunning scenery. Especially if you make your trip at one end of the busy season, or in late Spring or early Fall. I love exploring in rural Montana, ghost town hunting. In some places where you are wandering around on bumpy dirt ranch roads you might not see another vehicle or human for half a day. OTH, if you head by highway toward Glacier or Yellowstone, you suddenly will see yuppified boom towns, crowded campgrounds and tour buses full of Old Age Pensioners headed to the Big Attractions. Pick your poison. I hate crowds. ;) In contrast Great Basin NP, which is pretty much unknown and on the road to nowhere in NV, gets about 80,000 visitors ...... annually. BTW, when driving around out here be prepared for long hauls and keep the tank above half full. Sometimes it can be 100 miles to the next services. What fun! Southeast Montana along the primitive Big Sheep Creek Backcountry Byway: http://www.onlyinyourstate.com/montana/beautiful-byways-in-montana/ John Davies Spokane WA

Except for the big population centers like Seattle, Portland or Salt Lake City. The urban areas are full of RVers and they indeed do FILL up the parks in summer. A reservation at any state park is a good idea, especially a popular one near a big city. You are more or less correct about the other parts, except the weekends can sometimes be really busy. Finding a spot in a popular lakeside campground mid-week is usually a non-issue. Friday evening, not so much. The more popular National Parks are by far the worst. Do not expect to visit Glacier, Yellowstone or Zion in mid-season without encountering VAST crowds of tourists. The stunning Great Basin or similar "unknown" Parks are seldom a problem and just as enjoyable without so many darned people. I tend to avoid National Parks anyway due to their restrictive pet policy. There are plenty of great alternatives where your dog can come on the trail with you. John Davies Spokane WA

Can you tell us more about your Wrangler? I am afraid to ask about the fuel economy with all that bulky gear on the roof. Though after having owned a lifted Land Cruiser 80 for many years, anything in the double digits is fine. Is the power OK at 12K feet (Loveland Pass)? Have you thought about adding a supercharger like the Edelbrock kit? How often do you have to drop to Low Range for bumpy, loose forest road grades, and has your Ollie ever been a major problem? Have you ever wished you had a Rubicon for the much lower gearing and electric lockers? Are you happy with the relatively short wheelbase, and have you ever had any towing scares? You are way over max ratings for the Wrangler, but you haven't expressed any worries about it that I have seen, so your formula seems to be working for you. I would like to get more info and feedback about hauling these trailers in (way) less than ideal conditions, so please tell us about your Jeep and the gear up top... You can start a new thread if you like. Thanks very much. John Davies Spokane WA

Cool, thanks for posting. I like that part of the country. I assume that rattlesnakes are a worry there? It looks like the Rattlesnake Ritz from where I sit. Any concern about your doggie getting bit while scouting those rocks? Do you carry a snake bite kit along with your emergency kit? I never bothered until I got a dog. I am fairly comfortable hiking around rattlers, which are super common in the basalt rocks of the areas around me, but our two dogs are 100% oblivious. I like this one and carry it in a small day pack along with dog (and human) first aid supplies. You can use it for a spider bite or yellow jacket sting, there are lots of possibilities. You still need professional attention, regardless of if you used the kit for a snake bite.... https://www.rei.com/product/407144/sawyer-extractor-pump-kit Thanks for your interesting posts. John Davies Spokane WA

Both should be angled forward at the bottom as per the installation instructions. That eliminates the clearance between brackets and frame, in theory. If they were incorrectly installed at 90 degrees they will shift forward under load. http://www.andersenhitches.com/uploads/WD%20Hitch%20installation%20manual%202016%2015-pg.pdf Anderson recommends a spot weld on each bracket for a conventional steel frame. This tells you that they know full well that the design is a little flawed, tho it is typical for all types of WD hitches. You cannot weld the brackets onto your aluminum frame. You can however fabricate a couple of retainers from quality aluminum bar stock, say 1" wide x 1/4 " or more thick, and weld them to the frame immediately in front of the brackets. .... http://alcobrametals.com/product/AB.250D .... that should stop any tendancy for them to move under the extremely high load from the chains. You could alternatively bolt the braces on, but welding would be more satisfactory IMHO. I have only used a WD hitch on a couple of trailers. Although they were steel frames and the hitches of old school design, I welded the chain brackets solidly to the frame on both rigs. It is just good engineering. The forces involved are too intense to trust friction, especially with a soft(er) aluminum frame. I am surprised that more owners are not reporting problems with the brackets coming loose. Maybe you guys should take a close look at them to make sure they are 100% secure. I think the Oliver factory should install a PAIR of aluminum braces on every single frame, at both the front and the back of each Anderson bracket location, during the manufacturing process. It would add a little bit of labor cost, but the material cost is negligible, and no owner would ever have this problem. It is called bullet proofing. It's great PR to be able to brag that you have eliminated a possible future problem. John Davies Spokane WA

Buzzy, the _remote_ camping season in the Western Interior is dictated primarily by altitude, but secondarily by sun exposure. Keep in mind that snow depth can often be many tens of feet, and even deeper in drifts on the lee side of windy ridges. A southern facing slope with few trees will dry out completely early in the season, but north facing slopes, or ones in very heavy tree cover, can remain impassible to vehicles well into summer. Around Spokane I have to deal with snow berms blocking small secondary forest roads as late as early June, on the northern faces; this is with maximum elevation of about 6000 feet in the Idaho Panhandle. OTH, on the Colorado Plateau the areas way up high (10K and above) open much later. The Alpine Loop 4wd route near Durango is a good example - it gets plowed in June to allow the Jeeps to get through the 12,000+ ft passes. Often the walls of snow in the cuts are two or three times your height. So, early in the season to get into the real back country you must stay low or stay south. Or camp at low altitude and drive a snowmobile into the mountains ;) ... If you want beautiful camping in April (or even earlier), go to the Moab area. At around 4000 feet it is warm and dry, and there are no snow worries. The Grand Canyon is a little bit further south. The North Rim at near 9000 feet is completely impassible that time of year, until the road gets plowed in mid or late May. On one hand it is a little frustrating, having to wait for the snow to clear. On the other, you can pick your altitude for comfortable camping conditions. Low down in the early and late season, up high in mid summer when the deserts are blisteringly hot. Here's a typical scene at altitude on a south facing slope in northwest NV, at around 7000 feet in mid May: (Open in new tab - I cannot get the formatting right). And a quarter mile around the bend in the shady north side: This illustrates why you need caution when towing a larger trailer. You must plan for sudden blockages or dead ends. The LAST thing you want is to have to back your trailer down a mile of narrow twisty forest roads looking for a turn-around! (Here is a great scenario where a front receiver and a backup camera on the trailer would be helpful!! ... Assuming you had room to uncouple and turn the truck around.) When in doubt, scout ahead on foot or better yet, on a mountain bike. Don't even contemplate driving through the berm. It will swallow your full sized rig no matter how capable. A dirt bike can get over it, sometimes. Maybe. Finally, in the northern latitudes many NFS and other campgrounds _may_ not open until about Memorial Day and they close in early fall when the snow starts. It is a short season indeed if you have to rely on official campgrounds and especially dump stations. This is why primitive boondocking is so appealing to me. No crowds, few worries. Sorry, no Oliver in the pictures. Maybe next summer. Primitive camping in the west is fun and can be extremely rewarding, but you need to understand the terrain and weather and be extra prepared for unexpected situations and breakdowns. John Davies Spokane WA

This is a remarkable app for Android devices. I wish there were more like this for Mac users, but MotionX GPS is the only capable choice (and a great one) for those units. I want to emphasize my main point from a previous comment. Like any safety device for exploring remote areas, duplication of equipment is essential. Using a regular auto-routing gps for getting around, backed up by a second iPad or Android tablet or Windows laptop running a more specialized map program, gives redundancy, additional safety and way, WAY more capabilities than using just one device. A large display especially helps, by showing a wider area of terrain in detail. It is really hard to drive and navigate using a phone or tiny gps display. The problem with navigating with only a Garmin or other brand of "regular" gps is that as soon as you zoom out past say 0.5 miles scale, all the minor roads you are interested in simply vanish! So you must scroll around looking for that elusive crossroad or lake or saddle or campground (which may be completely missing from its primitive database) while zoomed into the "high detail" scale. Scrolling is stupid and very frustrating when you can see all that stuff in a glance on the other device which is set on a 1 or 2 mile scale. And just like bear spray, you need a second one along in case the first one is no longer working. The paper atlas or NFS map is for when both devices get confused or you need even more detail. Normally you don't need to drive along with your finger on the paper..... One thing about NFS roads - the road numbers often do NOT match what is on your gps or regular maps, so here is where an official Forest Service map comes in handy. But it is not 100% essential. We could start another thread about overlanding preparation, safety and equipment if folks are interested. It is probably not a good idea to get too sidetracked from the main idea of this one - Olivers and boon docking. But you will get much more action by just participating in the Expedition Portal forum. John Davies Spokane WA

Buzzy, for Western states the Benchmark atlases are hard to beat as a primary reference, supplemented by highly detailed NFS maps. The problem with the latter is that they are pricey and in some states like Idaho you may need a dozen or more. Plus they show no elevation data, which makes navigation a lot harder than it should be. https://www.benchmarkmaps.com/products-page/atlases/wyomingroad-recreation-atlas The Benchmark ones are way more useful away from urban areas that the similar Delorme ones - once you try the black BM atlases you will toss your red Delorme ones! While Google Earth and other resources are great for planning, I do long road trips with a Benchmark Atlas nearby, my Garmin RV760 LMT on the dash, for autorouting and Points of Interest, and my iPad Mini on a RAM mount, running MotionX GPS, usually zoomed out to about 2 miles to the inch for complete situational awareness. At this scale I see lots of features that the Garmin is completely blind to. http://gps.motionx.com/ipad/overview/ I usually view the excellent downloadable (included) MotionX Terrain maps, but I also have downloaded most USGS 24K topos (free) for my areas of operation. The beauty of this program is that it lets you view many, many different types of maps, including satellite and conventional road, but those require a data plan and cellular coverage, which in many places out here are simply unavailable. You MUST have cached maps! This is critical! It _is_ possible to load topo maps onto many NUVI models that have a flash card, and it is possible to display both topo and road features simultaneously with effective Auto Routing and voice prompts, but the display gets a little weird and I do not often do this. Plus Garmin TOPO is a little lame. Having two displays showing two different map types is a revelation when you are wandering in the boonies. The very best resource I have found for this stuff is a sub-forum at Expedition Portal: .... http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/forums/46-Mapping-Navigation-GIS-(Software) Here is a good start for you: .... http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/156098-Overland-Navigation-Overview-and-Tutorial?s=d2dbbcd414c6594cc6df60746eae59cb John Davies Spokane WA EDIT: There are a number of excellent local forums dedicated to overlanding, plus there are regional forums at Expedition Portal. While their focus is far more "off roady" than the stuff we have been talking about here, those folks _really_ know the back country areas around them and are friendly to visitors to their website asking for advice about places to visit. Just be sure to emphasize the fact that you will be hauling a trailer and do not have a locked and lifted Rubicon to pull it with. Avoid the 4x4/ Jeep forums as those are way too dirt oriented to be useful to an Oliver owner. In the past I have posted questions online about visiting southern Utah and the Colorado Plateau and these folks have been extremely helpful. JD

Make the dates straddle the Great Solar Eclipse on 08/21/17 (my birthday!) and you will have a winner. http://www.greatamericaneclipse.com/best-places-to-view/ John Davies Spokane WA

Well, you don't need to get hung up on the posted service schedule. It is a poor compromise at best. Base your maintenance on your towing conditions, storage conditions, road conditions, miles towed, seasons of use and other factors. If you keep a close eye on the suspension and bearings and seldom venture off pavement, there is NO reason in the world to rip off the hubs every 3000 miles. If the jacks operate smoothly and quietly, leave them alone until the next year. You can tell when a component is beginning to become distressed if you pay attention to the way it operates. The very best thing you can do is to store the trailer under complete cover. That minimizes all the bad things that slowly degrade your rig, plus it hides it from bad guys. John Davies Spokane WA

I am most interested in finding out how well the stock Oliver suspension and ground clearance works for these kinds of secondary forest/ ranch roads. It sure looks to me as if the departure angle is minimal at best, and the steps might clip a tree stump or rock. I plan to order the EZ-Flex option for sure, but am still thinking that I will need a spring over axle lift. Maybe somebody could convince me that it would not be needed. I do wish it were a factory option. I could post lots of pics showing terrain in OR, ID, MT and WY that are similar to the ones in this thread but unfortunately there are no travel trailers in them. ;) BTW one of my most favorite places anywhere is the northeast corner of Nevada; it is extremely remote, unpopulated and quite stunning in places. I plan to go back with an Ollie..... OK, I will post one, just imagine that there is an Ollie in it: It's a link to really big file, a panorama of the high country in National Forest lands near Jarbidge: http://www.spokanister.net/images_web/Overland_Expo_2012/UT%20AZ%20Trip-2012_05_20-1079-PAN-1300.jpg John Davies Spokane WA

Hmm, that is exotic and very expensive. I wonder what would be a good alternative that would be available in say 4 or 6 ounce tubes instead of the big grease gun cartridges, which are hard to store and carry once opened...? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mobil-SHC-460-H-D-Grease-2-pc-Synthetic-Grease-/141903892885?hash=item210a219195:g:d~8AAOSwll1WwMrl&item=141903892885&vxp=mtr http://www.timken.com/EN-US/products/lubrication/Documents/GreaseInterchange.pdf The Red Line CV-2 grease is a different type, I think, but it is simply stellar in axle CV joint applications. https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82&pcid=17 When non-standard grease is used it is important to not mix in an incompatible type, or unpleasant things can happen. John Davies Spokane WA