KarenLukens

We've been thinking about our new Lil' Nugget and have come up with a short wish list of things that we would have liked to have added if the options were available. Please feel free to add your wish list in and let's compare. 1st on our list is a split tinted window in the front door that can be opened that we can see out of. Then... Levels inside so that you can see exactly where you're sitting and make changes when needed. (I have added them) Buttons to raise and lower the jacks or stabilizers inside under the kitchen button pannel. Doors mounted on the propane storage compartment and have the inside finished off with a floor and walls to hold blocks and chocks. The toolbox door either a little wider or closer to the back and wide enough to mount a full length pull out tool drawer in that storage area. A matching paper towel holder mounted under the upper cabinet. A towel rack across the back of the shower so that the towels can hang behind the toilet instead of the rack to the right of it. A little taller sewer hose opening on the right side section that a person can fit a hand into and hold on to the hose when getting out out. Either a light switch outside the door or a motion sensor to turn the lights on at night when trying to find the key hole. And maybe some front stabilizers to tighten the feel when getting in. The one tongue jack works but leaves the front a bit wobbly. And that's it for now and many of them we can add on ourselves and have plans for some. We're heading out to Texas today to go see Larry and Debbie at Little House Customs and we are going to get the rear and side window awnings put on and see what else we can come up with. If the stabilizers that he has will work, then we will add a couple there also. It would be nice to have them installed at the factory with automatic stabilizers like the ones it comes with, but it's not something that is usually done at the factory on many RV's. [attachment file=48067]

Another successful state map update :) Then last night we spent the night in the Superstition Mountains at the Lost Dutchman Campground, thinking that I would be taking the car in for an engine light that appeared yesterday in the 100°+ weather... But I started the car this morning and it was normal again :) <span style="line-height: 1.5;">[attachment file=47928] [attachment file=47919]</span> [attachment file=47922]

Yup, the finger nail polish sealed it right up :)

Next, we'll all be diggin taters

Yup, mine goes to this screen every time. Just blank black, then I can hit recent topics to see what's new. Since Friday?[attachment file=47842]

What day is it??? I think it's Spring time... :)

I could also see air up in the top edges but the size is right. I like my small ones and I also have a large circular bubble on the tongue because the one on the jack isn't accurate. After seeing Steve & Tali's, I think all of the trailers should have jack switches inside the trailer with levels inside on the walls. We have levels inside also. The acculevel does get better reviews but one guy was saying that all of the mercury levels or whatever metal that is, have the same problem. All you can do is try them until you find one that you like.

Unfortunately the little old hamster is using a walker these days :) I get the blank page also.

Yup, it's had fresh grease on it since we left the factory. I think Overland hit it right on the head and I've seen this happening with a lot of new vehicles. A friend bought the new Dodge Eco-Diesel and his Escape hasn't charged with his either. I even have the extra plug in on ours to help the trailer register with the car because a lot of the newer cars can't see trailers with LED lighting because they don't pull hardly and voltage. I've been looking for better answers but it's been a year and our Casita didn't charge when towing either. The newer cars answer is what I keep hearing but I haven't found a fix for it yet even with the charged plug in added into the circuit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFVOF3M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He used 3M double sided tape; and because the Casita is rounded, he layered it on the top and bottom corners to get it to sit flat at 90° perpendicular or vertically to have it perfectly level. You can see the tape under the edges in the pic above.

We're in Sedona, AZ and met a friend with this level on his. It's huge and also easy to see. It's actually in an aluminum frame though you can't tell from the add. Honestly, it makes me jealous because it's so nice and easy to see :) https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-04115-Metal-Rear-Level/dp/B000FGKBU8/ref=cm_wl_huc_item

Today after running the CPAP, heater last night a bit, fans today, lights, etc. we were completely charged back up by 2pm. The max was 14.4 volts and it was a very pleasant day, so in the sun, after it was charged, it was sitting at 13.6v. Now that the sun has gone behind the hill, it still shows fully charged at 12.8v. So the Zamp Solar runs fine for us on sunny days as we have been seeing, but if there's a few really overcast and rainy days in a row, then it loses ground. We didn't need to run the Max Fan today, just the fridge fan. We had the windows open and the max fan cover open and everything was comfortable. This is our first actual boondocking day on BLM land outside Kingman, AZ. We relaxed today, finally after every chore was completed yesterday. We're registered with the new license plate installed, leveled and in the woods... Or high desert depending on how you look at it :)

Thanks Y'all :) I never thought that day would come when I actually knew that I was retired. It was definitely an eye opening experience. We took I40 back into Arizona today with no rush and no real schedule, so I just drove 72mph because it's comfortable :) We're boondocking in the desert at 4600' above Kingman on BLM land, with good times ahead :) <span style="line-height: 1.5;"></span>

That's exactly why we went with the Oliver, to run Karen's CPAP off of the solar. Depending on which machine you guys run, will make a big difference in the amount of power needed for the CPAP. I made a video a couple of years ago on CPAP camping that has really helped a lot of people. Right now, as long as there's sun, you may have to charge up with a generator once a week with the 4 battery set up. I have a Honda 2000i Generator and then a golf cart charger that maxes it out and charges the batteries pretty fast. In our experience the Phillips Respironics uses a lot less electricity then some others, so the brand of CPAP makes a difference also and you may be able to run without a generator ever, depending on the brand of machine. Here's our old video -

As time passes at just over a month now, we have found that some clear coat on the stove knobs might help the paint last a bit longer. Then I still haven't covered that little green light at night yet, it sure makes a great reflection. Counting the dots instead of sheep some nights :)

No sense in chocking up hill, so I will chock all 4 on the downhill side on a steep slope. I have these at home, didn't have any room for them when we came to pick up the trailer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CE0R40/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=DVETVI1ZF5E8&coliid=I3MU7GSP5PHL8K&psc=1 Then I bought these Camco super chocks until I make it home and I'm really not impressed with them at all. But I have a roll of V-matting that Oliver puts in the cupboards that I will line them with and try out again. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44492-Super-Wheel-Chock/dp/B0007TR4CQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1489676854&sr=8-6&keywords=Camco+chocks Being that they are hard plastic they have a tendency to slide on concrete, and I can't drive them in because they slip back out... so I really love the rubber ones that I have had for years and I also have a set of chocks cut from 4x4's that can be driven in hard under the tires on steep slopes with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer that I have with me. Being that I level with the jacks,I readjust the chocks or hammer them in again after leveling. Definitely Do Not buy the Camco Super Wheel Chocks... I was just reading the first review on Amazon and saw that they actually have an expiration date because of the UV rating in the plastic... Lol. Couple that with the slide and... Naw... They will work until we get home anyway... :)

This post disappeared... But I have learned to back up everything when posting to this forum these days :) I read through the Blue Sky manual again as this is the controller that I had originally thought we were getting before we ordered our Olli. Oliver sure made a bunch of changes for 2017 and going to the Zamp controller was for ease of use. I've been using Solar to keep my RV's batteries charged for about 12 years, starting with the little single pannel Coleman that simply clamped to the battery back in the day that I still have and use on my trucks. According to Blue Sky, their pannel being an mppt, will give you 30% more power... Right now, I'm missing 30% of the power that I was use to seeing with my Renogy Solar Suitcase which also has a bunch of parameters that can be set. I was pulling close to 10volts with that 100watt Suitcase, so I was expecting 3 times that with the 320watt system from Oliver. But I'm only getting 15.5volts max average right now and basically with the Zamp being a simple controller, my hands are tied, there are no adjustments that can be made... https://www.renogy.com/renogy-100-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-foldable-solar-suitcase-back-order/#tab_prd-specs But in order to know how many volts that the Blue Sky is actually putting out, let's all chime in with what we are seeing usually as the normal output. My Zamp is pushing 15.5vdc most of the day, what's yours? Please list your controller, Zamp, Blue Sky, etc. and the average charging voltage, then let's compare the results. I may end up using both the Solar Suitcase coupled with the Zamp system if I can't get the batteries to fully charge every day. Having an incomplete charge every day can change the values that the controller monitors with, so we need to research this a bit more. Here's a couple shots from the Blue Sky manual. I'm also wondering what the cost difference is? Reed Zamp/ 15.5vdc/ 320watt pannels Renogy/ 9.8vdc/ 100watt pannels [attachment file=47559] [attachment file=47562]

I read through the Blue Sky manual again as this is the controller that I had originally thought we were getting before we ordered our Olli. Oliver sure made a bunch of changes for 2017 and going to the Zamp controller was for ease of use. I've been using Solar to keep my RV's batteries charged for about 12 years, starting with the little single pannel Coleman that simply clamped to the battery back in the day that I still have and use on my trucks. According to Blue Sky, their pannel being an mppt, will give you 30% more power... Right now, I'm missing 30% of the power that I was use to seeing with my Renogy Solar Suitcase which also has a bunch of parameters that can be set. I was pulling close to 10volts with that 100watt Suitcase, so I was expecting 3 times that with the 320watt system from Oliver. But I'm only getting 15.5volts max average right now and basically with the Zamp being a simple controller, my hands are tied, there are no adjustments that can be made... https://www.renogy.com/renogy-100-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-foldable-solar-suitcase-back-order/#tab_prd-specs But in order to know how many volts that the Blue Sky is actually putting out, let's all chime in with what we are seeing usually as the normal output. My Zamp is pushing 15.5vdc most of the day, what's yours? Please list your controller, Zamp, Blue Sky, etc. and the average charging voltage, then let's compare the results. I may end up using both the Solar Suitcase coupled with the Zamp system if I can't get the batteries to fully charge every day. Having an incomplete charge every day can change the values that the controller monitors with, so we need to research this a bit more. Here's a couple shots from the Blue Sky manual. I'm also wondering what the cost difference is? Reed Zamp/ 15.5vdc/ 320watt pannels Renogy/ 9.8vdc/ 100watt pannels

We talked about it today :) Coming soon!

Honestly, I don't know if it's inferior but it is different then what I'm used to. On my other Solar systems you could set it to show the actual amps that the pannel was putting out, not counting the battery. So that was throwing me off. I've seen the Zamp hit 17amps and you have to remember that the 320watt 3 pannel system is still just a 26.67amp service. 320watt ÷ 12vdc = 26.67, so here in the desert, if they are saying that I may see 18vdc max then we're losing out on another possible 8 amps or 33%. In the article that Randy put on here for us, it says that you don't need a larger system for a 320watt to 20 amp system, so that would be fine, here's a pasted section - PWM and MPPT solar charge controllers come in two basic styles: flush mount and wall mount. The style that’s best for you is usually determined by how much space you have in your rig and the size of your solar power system. Flush mount PWM and MPPT controllers are typically smaller, are better suited for smaller systems of around 340 watts (20 amps) or less, and are ideal for those situations when space is limited like in a truck camper. On the other hand, if you have a large solar power system, of say, 960 watts (50 amps), and you are planning on installing an MPPT type of controller, then you’ll need to mount it in either a large storage compartment or a large closet because of the controller’s physical size. Whatever you decide, whether it’s a flush mount or wall mount, PWM or MPPT, you’ll want to make sure that the controller is mounted in a location that is dry, has access to wiring, and can easily be viewed and accessed for maintenance. Because I prefer to be off of the grid all of the time, it sounds like the Blue Star System would have been ideal for me because as it stands right now, I've seen the Zamp controller only hit 17 out of a possible 26amp system... And out of an entire month being basically in the sun, our batteries only reached a full charge once, just yesterday. And this was the kicker for me because I should have been seeing 20amps+ in the full desert sun and having it showing only 15.5 caused me to think that it was overcharging my batteries instead because I was expecting a larger amp reading coming from just the pannels. Maybe I did bring my generator for a reason, but I haven't had any reason to use it yet. If you have read the Zamp manual, it just gives you the basic charge reading and the amperage is lowered to protect the batteries. They will protect my batteries if they run dry supposedly but I don't see that ever happening. So I'm going to read all about the blue sky unless BUZZY!!! does a video all about it for us :)

This 1? http://www.ecodirect.com/Charge-Controller-Comparison-s/251.htm

+1 on a lot of the answers. But you said over inflate past the max recommendation on the door of the car? I don't think that there's a reason to go past max inflation. On our door it gives me 41lbs for normal and then to inflate the tires up to 48lbs when towing. If you don't add air and you're towing a lot, then the tires will wear out on the outside edges. I'm always watching the treads on our tires and today I took it up to the 48lbs that they recommend just to see where it rides being that we are towing constantly right now. With the Casita, 4lbs extra worked fine and I'm thinking that I will end up around 6lbs over with the Elite II, which is still under the 48lbs max on our car. Still though, watching the tires is the best way to tell.

I plugged the tester into my car and I'm getting 12vdc out of it to the trailer, but I don't think that the trailer is charging from the car when towing. Is this normal? Do I have a fuse to reset somewhere? What do I do to test the trailer charging system from the car? With the Solar it really hasn't been noticable except for on one cloudy rain filled day that we were driving. After a full 6 hours of driving, the trailer charge level had only moved 1/10 on the Zamp meter. I realize that the Zamp meter isn't designed for this but I'd like to check the battery charging connection on the trailer if possible. I have a multimeter and a test light probe with me.

Yup, that's the same manual, and I have read the article before we picked up our Lil' Nugget. This is around my 4th or 5th set of solar pannels counting the 100watt Solar Suitcase that we used on the Casita but it also is my first set of stationary pannels. So having not been set up to point at the sun has been a new experience along with numbers that don't change much. The controller is nice but personally, it could of all been hidden with just a power light showing that it is working like the inverter. I agree that the numbers are meaningless right now with the pannels being fixed, and it would serve a purpose if the pannels moved, but as is, it could be mounted inside the cabinet. Thanks for doing the research Buzzy :) As is, I would like to be able to position the pannels also John, because yesterday was the first day in a month of use that our batteries were fully charged. We had been starting around 12.6 to 13.2 at night before last night and 12.3 was the lowest voltage we ended up with in the morning. And that's running Karen's CPAP all night. She has the Resmed Airsense 10, 24volt system, which uses a lot more power then like the Phillips Respironics that runs for days on it's 12vdc system using around 75% less of the power that is needed for the Airsense 10. Right now, I don't think that there's enough charging capability to run a second one on Solar alone as it's set up. But movable pannels would fix that. Plus, we've been parked pretty much in direct sunlight for the entire month, and though it has drawn down to 12.3 during the night, it has still been enough power to run her favorite CPAP machine even after charging the batteries just a little on those rainy days.

Nope, the SeaLevel II shows basically the same. Just 2/10ths lower,so when the Zamp shows 13.6, the SeaLevel shows 13.4 which makes me think that it is less accurate being that it was 2/10 off on almost every take. So we don't have any way of seeing the actual voltages unless the batteries are isolated.