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Everything posted by GrayGhost

  1. The old style are also LED and downward pointing. Seems like the big difference is size.
  2. The old style are also LED and downward pointing. Seems like the big difference is size.
  3. I have hull #98, which was delivered in Sept 2015 to the original owner. As with Try2Relax, I have the old style lights with no streaking, but streaking around the shore power gasket. It's almost like soot. It takes very little moisture to produce the streaks. Seems like an oxidation problem. The streaks come off easily enough, I just worry about the gasket integrity and water eventually getting behind it and between the hulls.
  4. Having owned and built boats, I am very familiar with the 3M 5200 and 4200 products. I was expecting the panel on the front of the vanity to be much more difficult to remove because I thought I would run into a thick bead of 4200. If you look closely at the first photo you can see a thin bead of caulk. And, it was very easy to slip a razor blade between the vanity and the panel and slice through the caulk. I know they use 4200 on all the major joints In the Oliver, and I could be wrong, but I honestly don't think it was 4200 that was holding that panel on....it seemed to me to be silicone. It also cleaned up very easily with the blade, with no damage whatsoever to the gel coat. I believe the newer Ollies have the panels fixed with a couple of screws in the same location I put mine, but they have decorative caps to hide the screw heads.
  5. Yes, the plumbing looks plenty rugged. Also, the pex to faucet connections are done with braided plumbing line. So if you ever wanted to change out the faucet/shower head for any reason it would be very easy.
  6. Previously I thought that a hatch in the closet was the way to go. After opening up the front,I can see that there just isn't enough room for anything but a small round port. Enough for an easy visual check of things, but not a practical accesss to do much else I don't think.
  7. Yes, much better, thanks. I think though, unless I missed it, the edit function has disappeared... as one who is a bad proofreader, that function is invaluable ?
  8. Also, the old caulk came off very easily, also with a blade (carefully). Re-caulked with 3M marine grade silicone caulk.
  9. The front came off very easily, just a sharp razor blade to cut the caulk. It went back on fairly easily, but to make it even easier I re-attached it with stainless screws and washers first, didn't want just a bead of caulk to hold it on and have it slip before it dried. I caulked around it after it was attached with screws. The only way I can see to avoid doing that would be to hold it in place with tape while it dries. I thought about attaching the reducer with a screw(s), but that would have been very difficult within that space to get a drill in there. And it was so ill-fitting because of size, weight and the angle it was at because of plumbing in the way, I opted for another method. The duct splits at the second cabin vent. I don't know if it reduces from 3-4" there, or somewhere else prior to the bathroom. A three inch vent in the bath would negate the need for a reducer, but perhaps they aren't available.
  10. Cabin vent duct on mine are on really tight as well. It looks to me that the duct to the cabin is 4", and the run back to the bathroom is 3" to help keep the velocity up over the extra distance, so the reducer is needed to accommodate the smaller duct.
  11. Did some "unscheduled maintenance" today. I discovered a while back that I was not getting any airflow out of the bathroom heat vent.... None. Took a flashlight and looked into the vent, and sure enough, the duct had separated from the vent. When I took the little rack off the front of the vanity, discovered the following: 1. For those who thought that perhaps there was wasted space in there, there really is not. Duct, plumbing, wiring and the recessed wash cloth rack take up almost all of the room. You will be glad to have space to maneuver under there if you ever want to do some mods or repairs. 2. The reducer that attaches the duct to the vent is metal, really heavy for the application, and just barely fits if everything is lined up just right during the build. In my case, the plumbing vent angles out away from the front wall just slightly, and it's just enough to make the reducer not fit. The joint was held together with foil duct tape, and the weight caused it to separate. 3. Found a very light weight plastic reducer on Amazon that fit the situation much better. The joint between the reducer and vent still not a good fit, (meaning it's just a tad too wide to slide into the vent), but with a couple of good wraps with foil tape it's on securely. And feather weight, so no danger that it will come loose.
  12. Thanks for the added info and links.... you mentioned the Stone Stomper previously....do you have a US source for one, or are you going to order direct from Australia?
  13. The 14x14x1/2 filter will probably work fine, thanks for the lead.... For now I think I will stay with a temporary filter unless it turns out to be too much of a pain to dismantle. While I agree that the fan is not particularly attractive, I do like how it is somewhat translucent and lets light into the interior during the day. I have an air source to keep tires topped off that would work for clearing dust as well: https://www.amazon.com/Viair-40047-Automatic-Portable-Compressor/dp/B004B68XGC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485795417&sr=8-3&keywords=viair+air+compressor As far as the main door dust intrusion is concerned- I have to compress the gasket pretty well to get the door to close tightly. In fact, a couple of times when I thought the deadbolt was locked and wasn't, the door has popped open underway. Given how tightly it closes I don't think I'll have issues with dust intrusion there.
  14. I think I may try trimming a 14x14 version of this down to size, and attach with painters masking tape.
  15. John- Thanks for the link to the expedition portal thread...interesting and helpful info. Overland- The knob does turn when operation the Maxx Fan with the remote. There is 1/2" clearance between the knot and the outside of the flange. The knob is attached with a Phillips screw, so can be removed. There is 1" clearance between the screen and the outside of the flange. The outside of the flange is 15 - 5/16" square. The inside is not quite square, 13-1/2"x 13-7/16". BTW- After a storm with particularly heavy wind and rain for long duration, I noticed a very small amount of water on the basement floor. I mentioned it to Tommy when I was at the factory in October for some other upgrades, and they put an additional gasket around the rim of the door, pictured below. Since it's at the rear of the trailer and a likely place for dust intrusion, I'm glad it's on there. I don't recall if they are putting it on all new trailers or not.
  16. I'll take some measurements and photos tomorrow...I believe the inside knob does turn when using the remote.
  17. I'm starting some preliminary planning for a western trip in May-June. Last time I made this trip it was in a stick built trailer, and the dust intrusion was HORRENDOUS. Had to completely empty it a couple of times to get it clean enough to sleep in after some treks down long, dry dirt roads. For those who have travelled down similar roads in their Oliver, I'm wondering what to expect for dust intrusion, (I'm hoping and assuming minimal in the living compartment at least), and what you may have done to mitigate it. Thanks.
  18. Spent a stormy weekend at T. H. Stone State Park near Apalachicola, Fl. The "Forgotten Coast". Very rural, miles of undisturbed beaches, and lots of wild life. Very well maintained campground, with or without hookups. A very worthwhile visit if you are in the area. https://www.floridastateparks.org/park/St-Joseph
  19. So many nice places to check out on CO... spent a few weeks last summer camping, hiking and fishing in the Flat Tops Wilderness... spectacular. Several nice campgrounds in the area.
  20. Sorry to see you go Tommy. I have not owned my used Oliver very long, and only have had one interaction with you and the team, but it was exemplary and lived up to all the accolades that have been published on this forum. Good luck and good health to you and your family...
  21. The window unit that was in the stick built trailer I had was the smallest available, I think 5000 BTU, and was more than sufficient. I'd be surprised if a 6000 BTU wasn't adequate for the Ollie.
  22. I had a small stick built trailer that had a small window unit that was fantastic. Very quiet, and cooled wonderfully...and more important for me, dehumidified very well. It wasn't hung in a window, but installed such that the back was flush with the outside of the camper. Best way to describe it would be to think of the microwave we now have in the Ollie, and replace it with a small window unit. It means an additional, rather large and unattractive grate on the outside of the camper. If I was going to go that route, I would remove the microwave in favor of a pantry cabinet, build a window a/c unit where the pantry is now, and probably still have room for a small cabinet underneath. You can see the window unit in the center of the photo below, to the right of the "Retro" logo.
  23. Thanks...will look at his old posts to see if I can find it.
  24. I know I have seen a picture somewhere along the line, but have not been able to find searching the forum....and that is the possibility of an access hatch under the drawer of the "nightstand" between the twin beds... Seems to be a lot of space in there that is easier accessed from there rather than through the basement door. and might be of interest to all of those folks who have recently put in new orders... would like to put one in myself, but would like to see what others have done first. Thanks.
  25. FYI- Having trouble with starting a new thread. When I click on the section of the forum I want to start a thread in, (Ollie Modifications in this instance) it shows me as logged out rather than logged in, so the appropriate buttons are not available. I am able to click on an existing thread and reply however, (obviously, as with this thread) because in that instance my status still shows as logged in. I did try logging out, closing the session and starting anew, but no luck.
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