GrayGhost

ScubaRx, thanks very much for your input. I am aware of how the solar panels work, but I decided to experiment with a smaller opening, primarily for longevity of the cover....I was concerned that a complete opening would tend to have edges catch and rip. So far the batteries are maintaining at 100%, but if that changes I will know what the culprit is and will alter the opening.

I have the Trojan T 105 AGM sealed batteries. My understanding is that they do not vent, except in an overcharge situation. I did leave the solar system charging. The battery compartment is ventilated, and the cover is also ventilated; the darker gray flap that hangs at the roofline of the trailer has screening beneath for ventilation, as well as the 9 square foot opening at the top that I opened up for the solar panels. While the cover is snug enough to keep it from blowing off, it does billow a bit when there is a breeze. I think there will be enough circulation with the cooler air under the trailer being drawn up by the hot air escaping up through the vents, and more than enough air movement to exhaust the little vents on the outside of the battery compartment.

When I purchased our elite II in September, it came with an inexpensive Expedition RV cover, sized for 18-24' travel trailers. I've been wanting to get the trailer out of the Florida sun, and keep it from prying eyes and sticky fingers at the storage lot where it's kept, but did not want to cover the solar panels. I decided to cut a 3' x 3' hole in the top and give it a shot. Seems to be working OK so far.

Should have included above, but it has 3.55 rear end; non-towing highway mpg has been at the manufacturer specs of 29mpg, combined hwy/city is 26.5. Around town I do drive a bit for improved mileage, meaning no jack rabbit starts and drive the speed limit.

FWIW, I don't have a heavy duty diesel truck, I have the light duty Ram 1500 diesel. My one trip towing my elite 2 so far has been round trip from Pensacola FL to Hohenwald. Not flat by any means, but not the Rockies either. On that 900 mile trip I averaged 17.5 mpg driving at the speed limit, with plenty of power going up all sf the Tennessee hills.

Wow, that's good to know....this is the first installation of these switches that I've run into where it's purpose was not to isolate the batteries entirely.

Having a weird phenomenon occur.... New responses to posts have a copy of the header or banner overlays on the post such that it can't be read.... See below thanks.

I brought mine to the factory a couple of weeks ago, and one the the things they did was install the Dexter EZ Flex. Here are a couple of photos that may help with zerk location.(note the zero hidden in the mounting bracket). I noticed that some that have installed themselves have located the zerks differently.

The battery switch I referred to is pictured below. It's under the access panel located under the bed that is closest to the cupboard (and the batteries). I believe if you turn this in the off position it will isolate your batteries from all of the electronically connections in the trailer. Sorry I can't help with your battery issues above; I'm fine with mechanicals, when it comes to sorting out electrical issues I am on the sidelines....

Curious to know what everyone does with their batteries for winter storage. Those with solar, do you leave the battery switch on and let the solar trickle charge all winter? Those without, do you leave the batteries in the trailer with the battery switch off, or remove batteries all together? Thanks.

Would it be possible to access this area through a hatch put into the closet wall to the right of the vanity? The hatch wouldn't be visible in the closet, and would provide access at anytime rather than have to dis- assemble and re-assemble the vanity.

Hmm. "Value". I looked at Casita, Escape and others before emphatically deciding on an Oliver. So for me, Oliver was a "better value". Why? Overall design, construction, quality of materials, and many things standard without being add-ons that add to the price of the other makes, if you can even get them. The conventional style interiors that I find much less durable and harder to clean, were a real detractor for me. After six weeks on the road visiting national parks and other rustic environs, just can't seem get those interiors back up to snuff like you can with the Oliver. These are just a few things that caused me to decide what was the better value. In the end, what fits one's budget will be the deciding factor on what is purchased, but to me value is highly subjective, and in many ways separate from base price. Depending on the type of camping you like to do I would seriously consider the solar option with upgraded batteries. We live in NW Florida and Downeast Maine, and like to take trips west to the national parks. When in Florida we rely on facilities with hookups to power air conditioning. Outside of the south, I look for much more out of the way sites that often do not have hook ups and look forward to the flexibility that solar will provide. Surge protection as well to protect the sensitive electonics and wiring. We also have the 30lb propane tanks...might be overkill, but I like the comfort of having more than I will probably need on any given trip, and probably any entire season of camping. The Dexter EZ flex is a very worthwhile add-on as well. Oliver has been fantastic to work with in my opinion. I bought mine used. Even though I didn't buy from them, when I brought my trailer to Hohenwald for a couple of upgrades ( change out Coleman ac and add Dexter EZ flex),they treated me as though I did, and they took it upon themselves to do a few upgrades that are standard with the newer models as well as correct a defect in one of the items provided by another manufacturer at no charge. One thing to watch out for though....just washed and waxed Oliver and he is looking mighty fine....and he knows it....asked me to borrow the keys to the TV so he could go out and meet a little Casita somewhere....

I can't see how that cable attachment is done without ripping the insulation off the door on mine, but it has a metal ring that protrudes through the insulation, and the cable hooks onto that. If yours is the same, you might try opening the door and propping it up so it is perpendicular to Ollie, leaving the cable off. Put a big dab of 3m 5200 behind the attachment piece, and secure it with a slightly larger screw. Once the 5200 dries, it will probably never come off.

Can someone who has taken delivery of an Oliver with the Dometic Penguin 2 A/C , or perhaps someone who has swapped out their Coleman for a Dometic, give an opinion on the noise level and how it compares to the Coleman? Thanks.

Thanks Buzzy. I am torn between what you have and having Oliver install the model they have has an option. Either way, I don't think I want to be without one.

Our agent was able to add the Oliver same day during a five minute phone call. Perhaps that's because I already had a trailer on the policy, and replaced it with the Oliver. But I can't imagine that yours would not be able to do the same, with coverage starting at midnight that day at the latest. Seems to me that Oliver would have your paperwork ready at least the day before delivery day, and would be able to give you the VIN # then, and you could call it in and be insured by delivery time.

You need look no further than their own website....Notice the nice fat dent in the aluminum (front corner) and it's not even off the factory floor yet.....Not to mention the wood floor, conventional frame style, looking forward to replacing leaking rivets, etc. I've had several camp trailers in the past that have relied on wooden components, and they just don't stand the test of time. Glad to spend a little more $ for the strength of construction and lower maintenance of a fiberglass trailer.

We recently purchased hull #98, and looking forward to picking it up this weekend. This particular unit does not have the factory surge protector option installed. Wondering what others are using and recommend for surge protection. Thanks.