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Posted

I have the Xantrex 3000 in a 2022  E2 w/390ah Lithionics. The 300A Optifuse continues to trip. This happens when the battery charger is charging while on shore power. Or when I run the AC at around 1000 ish watts on the inverter, it will typically throw  an error 20 in that case as well. It seems to do short runs on the microwave oven (1 to2 min ok, haven’t tested long run times). As far as the inverter charger setting Oliver requires the Charger Current set at 150A. If left at 150A it trips. If I set it at 90A it seems to hold.

We originally started with the Dometic A/C with soft start, same issue. Have since upgraded to the Truma A/C. Understand this doesn’t affect the charging side of the problem.

 I did open a ticket right after I bought it. Oliver sent a new Opifuse saying it must have been bad. Opened a second ticket but the issue goes unresolved. Is it possible the replacement  Optifuse is bad? Any ideas? Thanks!

Hull #1238 - Legacy Elite II, TB. TV 2017 Tundra TRD.

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, aaronorange said:

I have the Xantrex 3000 in a 2022  E2 w/390ah Lithionics. The 300A Optifuse continues to trip. This happens when the battery charger is charging while on shore power. Or when I run the AC at around 1000 ish watts on the inverter, it will typically throw  an error 20 in that case as well. It seems to do short runs on the microwave oven (1 to2 min ok, haven’t tested long run times). As far as the inverter charger setting Oliver requires the Charger Current set at 150A. If left at 150A it trips. If I set it at 90A it seems to hold.

We originally started with the Dometic A/C with soft start, same issue. Have since upgraded to the Truma A/C. Understand this doesn’t affect the charging side of the problem.

 I did open a ticket right after I bought it. Oliver sent a new Opifuse saying it must have been bad. Opened a second ticket but the issue goes unresolved. Is it possible the replacement  Optifuse is bad? Any ideas? Thanks!

On our 2022, it tripped day 2 after pick-up. Oliver told me how to reset it. 2 months later it happened again and Oliver sent a new one.

 

For 2 years no issues. I was having problems late in 2024, and Jason E. looked at it at the Texas Rally and  it was in Oliver for service this past February. It was determined the inverter breaker was bad. Oliver switched to a new fuse system and didn't have any of the breakers and couldn't get one.

 

I replaced the breaker a month ago and even ordered a back-up.

 

When I went to remove the old breaker (all power off, solar, inverter breaker manually tripped and the 3 Lithonics batteries), I found the nuts on the breaker posts loose. I also found the flat cable ends pitted, apparently due to loose connections and apparent arching. I sprayed these ends with a conductivity product. When it dried I installed the cables using Locktite Green per Jason E.

 

This appears to be my issue for not checking all my electric connections annually.  It is possible there was nothing wrong with the breaker, just a loose connections.

 

Since I bought a new one, I didn't want to take any chances.

 

I guess it is possible your replacement was bad. I would continue to work with Oliver. I would turn off everything and make sure the nuts are torqued properly. Did you use Locktite? Jason said Green was the best.

Edited by John Dorrer
Updated Comment

 John & Susan Dorrer, 2013 F250, 6.2 gasser, 4x4, 2022 Legacy Elite 2, twin beds, Hull #1045, Jolli Olli

-image.jpeg.9e7303babcb28d7f6badb799734c6e44.jpegALARCOFLGAIDILINIAKSKYLAMEMAMIMNMSMOMTNE

Posted

Thank you! Yes, I have triple checked all the connections for tightness. Including the post inside the inverter. I’m really puzzled as to reason why this keeps happening. Because of heat issues and potential fire I don’t want to just start changing parts. However if I get the okay from Oliver or Xantrex I will replace the Optifuse/breaker with a fuse. I would rather have it in the battery compartment for access. It’s always a pain to get under the bed to reset the Optifuse. Especially in the middle of the night. 
 

I was at the Texas rally last year and will be there this year as well. When we left last year we went to the factory to switch out our noisy Dometic A/C for the Truma. I asked the other Jason about my Optifuse issue and he said he had never heard of such a problem and had no solutions. We are headed to Murfreesboro for a ceramic coating this summer so maybe I will try stopping by Oliver.

  • Like 2

Hull #1238 - Legacy Elite II, TB. TV 2017 Tundra TRD.

image.jpeg.dcec32ac8216e88309627f1318877062.jpeg

 

Posted
4 hours ago, aaronorange said:

Thank you! Yes, I have triple checked all the connections for tightness. Including the post inside the inverter. I’m really puzzled as to reason why this keeps happening. Because of heat issues and potential fire I don’t want to just start changing parts. However if I get the okay from Oliver or Xantrex I will replace the Optifuse/breaker with a fuse. I would rather have it in the battery compartment for access. It’s always a pain to get under the bed to reset the Optifuse. Especially in the middle of the night. 
 

I was at the Texas rally last year and will be there this year as well. When we left last year we went to the factory to switch out our noisy Dometic A/C for the Truma. I asked the other Jason about my Optifuse issue and he said he had never heard of such a problem and had no solutions. We are headed to Murfreesboro for a ceramic coating this summer so maybe I will try stopping by Oliver.

Oliver is no longer using a breaker. They have switched to a large, more dependable fuse. Not sure what the cost would be to switch to the new system. Jason E. suggest I stick with the breaker. I'm going to watch things closely.

  • Like 1

 John & Susan Dorrer, 2013 F250, 6.2 gasser, 4x4, 2022 Legacy Elite 2, twin beds, Hull #1045, Jolli Olli

-image.jpeg.9e7303babcb28d7f6badb799734c6e44.jpegALARCOFLGAIDILINIAKSKYLAMEMAMIMNMSMOMTNE

Posted (edited)

There are several clamp on multi-meters that owners have suggested as cost effective and easy to use.  Chasing breaker trips without knowing what the amp draw and breaker resistance is a really difficult task.  John Davies recommend this one many years ago.  It has been updated several times, but the line is still well received.  I have purchased four of them for my boys and brother.  Highly recommend.  

That said, if you google the topic, you'll find a whole bunch more of them that are popular with this group.  

GJ

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Edited by Geronimo John

TV:  2019 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.5L EcoBoost, 10 Speed Trans, Max Tow, FX-4, Rear Locker      OLLIE:  2018 OE2 Hull 342, Twin Bed.    OLLIE DIY’s: Timken Bearings, BB LiFePO4's, Victron 712 Smart, 350 Amp Master Switch, Houghton 3400, Victron Orion DC - DC, 3000-Watt Renogy Inverter, P.D. 60-amp Converter, Frig Dual Exhaust Fans, Kitchen Drawer Straps. Front Wardrobe Shelves, Snuggle Shelf.   TV DIY’s:  2 5/16" Anderson System, Nitto recon’s, Firestone Rear Air Bags, Bilstein 5100’s, Mud Flaps & Weather Tech all, installed Ham Radio (WH6JPR).

  

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Posted
9 hours ago, aaronorange said:

Thank you! Yes, I have triple checked all the connections for tightness. Including the post inside the inverter. I’m really puzzled as to reason why this keeps happening. Because of heat issues and potential fire I don’t want to just start changing parts.

@aaronorange Also make sure the order in which your terminals, fuses, washers etc. are connected are correct, if not that can also mess up the flow of power. Here’s a great video by Nate from Explorist Life explaining the correct order. 

  • Like 1

2023 Elite II, Hull# 1386, Lithium Platinum Package (640AH, 400W Roof Solar, 3000W Xantrex Inverter), added 400W Renogy Solar suitcase with Victron MPPT 100/30 CC, Truma water heater & AC

TV: 2024 Silverado 2500HD 6.6L 10-Speed Allison

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