Xantrex 3000

[aaronorange]

I have the Xantrex 3000 in a 2022  E2 w/390ah Lithionics. The 300A Optifuse continues to trip. This happens when the battery charger is charging while on shore power. Or when I run the AC at around 1000 ish watts on the inverter, it will typically throw  an error 20 in that case as well. It seems to do short runs on the microwave oven (1 to2 min ok, haven’t tested long run times). As far as the inverter charger setting Oliver requires the Charger Current set at 150A. If left at 150A it trips. If I set it at 90A it seems to hold.

We originally started with the Dometic A/C with soft start, same issue. Have since upgraded to the Truma A/C. Understand this doesn’t affect the charging side of the problem.

 I did open a ticket right after I bought it. Oliver sent a new Opifuse saying it must have been bad. Opened a second ticket but the issue goes unresolved. Is it possible the replacement  Optifuse is bad? Any ideas? Thanks!

[John Dorrer]

9 hours ago, aaronorange said:

I have the Xantrex 3000 in a 2022  E2 w/390ah Lithionics. The 300A Optifuse continues to trip. This happens when the battery charger is charging while on shore power. Or when I run the AC at around 1000 ish watts on the inverter, it will typically throw  an error 20 in that case as well. It seems to do short runs on the microwave oven (1 to2 min ok, haven’t tested long run times). As far as the inverter charger setting Oliver requires the Charger Current set at 150A. If left at 150A it trips. If I set it at 90A it seems to hold.

We originally started with the Dometic A/C with soft start, same issue. Have since upgraded to the Truma A/C. Understand this doesn’t affect the charging side of the problem.

 I did open a ticket right after I bought it. Oliver sent a new Opifuse saying it must have been bad. Opened a second ticket but the issue goes unresolved. Is it possible the replacement  Optifuse is bad? Any ideas? Thanks!

On our 2022, it tripped day 2 after pick-up. Oliver told me how to reset it. 2 months later it happened again and Oliver sent a new one.

 

For 2 years no issues. I was having problems late in 2024, and Jason E. looked at it at the Texas Rally and  it was in Oliver for service this past February. It was determined the inverter breaker was bad. Oliver switched to a new fuse system and didn't have any of the breakers and couldn't get one.

 

I replaced the breaker a month ago and even ordered a back-up.

 

When I went to remove the old breaker (all power off, solar, inverter breaker manually tripped and the 3 Lithonics batteries), I found the nuts on the breaker posts loose. I also found the flat cable ends pitted, apparently due to loose connections and apparent arching. I sprayed these ends with a conductivity product. When it dried I installed the cables using Locktite Green per Jason E.

 

This appears to be my issue for not checking all my electric connections annually.  It is possible there was nothing wrong with the breaker, just a loose connections.

 

Since I bought a new one, I didn't want to take any chances.

 

I guess it is possible your replacement was bad. I would continue to work with Oliver. I would turn off everything and make sure the nuts are torqued properly. Did you use Locktite? Jason said Green was the best.

Edited Wednesday at 11:54 AM by John Dorrer
Updated Comment

[aaronorange]

Thank you! Yes, I have triple checked all the connections for tightness. Including the post inside the inverter. I’m really puzzled as to reason why this keeps happening. Because of heat issues and potential fire I don’t want to just start changing parts. However if I get the okay from Oliver or Xantrex I will replace the Optifuse/breaker with a fuse. I would rather have it in the battery compartment for access. It’s always a pain to get under the bed to reset the Optifuse. Especially in the middle of the night. 
 

I was at the Texas rally last year and will be there this year as well. When we left last year we went to the factory to switch out our noisy Dometic A/C for the Truma. I asked the other Jason about my Optifuse issue and he said he had never heard of such a problem and had no solutions. We are headed to Murfreesboro for a ceramic coating this summer so maybe I will try stopping by Oliver.

[John Dorrer]

4 hours ago, aaronorange said:

Thank you! Yes, I have triple checked all the connections for tightness. Including the post inside the inverter. I’m really puzzled as to reason why this keeps happening. Because of heat issues and potential fire I don’t want to just start changing parts. However if I get the okay from Oliver or Xantrex I will replace the Optifuse/breaker with a fuse. I would rather have it in the battery compartment for access. It’s always a pain to get under the bed to reset the Optifuse. Especially in the middle of the night. 
 

I was at the Texas rally last year and will be there this year as well. When we left last year we went to the factory to switch out our noisy Dometic A/C for the Truma. I asked the other Jason about my Optifuse issue and he said he had never heard of such a problem and had no solutions. We are headed to Murfreesboro for a ceramic coating this summer so maybe I will try stopping by Oliver.

Oliver is no longer using a breaker. They have switched to a large, more dependable fuse. Not sure what the cost would be to switch to the new system. Jason E. suggest I stick with the breaker. I'm going to watch things closely.

[Geronimo John]

There are several clamp on multi-meters that owners have suggested as cost effective and easy to use.  Chasing breaker trips without knowing what the amp draw and breaker resistance is a really difficult task.  John Davies recommend this one many years ago.  It has been updated several times, but the line is still well received.  I have purchased four of them for my boys and brother.  Highly recommend.  

That said, if you google the topic, you'll find a whole bunch more of them that are popular with this group.  

GJ

Edited Wednesday at 11:08 PM by Geronimo John

[rich.dev]

9 hours ago, aaronorange said:

Thank you! Yes, I have triple checked all the connections for tightness. Including the post inside the inverter. I’m really puzzled as to reason why this keeps happening. Because of heat issues and potential fire I don’t want to just start changing parts.

@aaronorange Also make sure the order in which your terminals, fuses, washers etc. are connected are correct, if not that can also mess up the flow of power. Here’s a great video by Nate from Explorist Life explaining the correct order. 

[Ronbrink]

20 hours ago, aaronorange said:

However if I get the okay from Oliver or Xantrex I will replace the Optifuse/breaker with a fuse.

My 2020 LEll did not come with a battery cutoff switch and thus, the stock 200A breaker leading to the Xantrex 2000 serves that purpose in my situation.

[Geronimo John]

8 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

My 2020 LEll did not come with a battery cutoff switch and thus, the stock 200A breaker leading to the Xantrex 2000 serves that purpose in my situation.

Likely only to a point. For all the trailers I have seen, there are other power feeds off your batteries that would not be disabled without also making them safe.

That 200 amp "breaker" likely is in the  path of the 4/0 cable to your inverter.  That "breaker" would be a bit odd as normally it is a "FUSE".  But I seem to have heard that on a few units they did use a breaker.  If it's a breaker, then conversion to a 300 amp fuse would be beneficial for several reasons as stated by others on similar threads.  

GJ

[Ronbrink]

4 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

That 200 amp "breaker" likely is in the  path of the 4/0 cable to your inverter.  That "breaker" would be a bit odd as normally it is a "FUSE".  But I seem to have heard that on a few units they did use a breaker.  If it's a breaker, then conversion to a 300 amp fuse would be beneficial for several reasons as stated by others on similar threads.  

You are correct, the 200A breaker is used to turn off battery feed to the inverter and thus, all AC circuits. There is also a second 60A breaker that turns off all DC loads. Between the two, the battery bank is isolated. Also, when I upgraded to LFPs a 250A ANL fuse was installed in the battery bay on the positive lead from said bank (See pics). For major disconnect, I have removed the fuse from the bus. Finally, with mention of a 300A fuse, should the 250A be replaced for optimum protection?

Edited 9 hours ago by Ronbrink

[Geronimo John]

5 minutes ago, Ronbrink said:

Finally, with mention of a 300A fuse, should the 250A be replaced for optimum protection?

If you are using a 2,000 watt inverter  no. 

If you are using a 3,000 watt inverter.... personally I would buy a 300 amp fuse for spare parts. Most of us are not likely to be running the inverter hard enough to blow it.  But it is possible with my wife firing off her 1500 watt hair dryer the same time I decide to nuke my coffee and the A/C compressor all three together decide to "Make My Day".  Not likely, but Mr. Murphy is a permeant resident for some of us. 

But with power management that we all normally do it likely will be years before Mr. M says bye bye to your 250 amp fuse.  

[Ronbrink]

24 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

If you are using a 2,000 watt inverter  no. 

Thanks for your input, the Xantrex 2000W was the only upgrade option in 2020. I’ll keep your fuse upgrade in mind if ever a 3000W dominates my dreams. As for Mr. M, he comes around but I won’t let him stay long!

[aaronorange]

On 6/18/2025 at 5:07 PM, Geronimo John said:

There are several clamp on multi-meters that owners have suggested as cost effective and easy to use.  Chasing breaker trips without knowing what the amp draw and breaker resistance is a really difficult task.  John Davies recommend this one many years ago.  It has been updated several times, but the line is still well received.  I have purchased four of them for my boys and brother.  Highly recommend.  

That said, if you google the topic, you'll find a whole bunch more of them that are popular with this group.  

GJ

At the time it tripped it was pulling 88 amps. This happened today, stopped at a rest stop for lunch and thought I’d give it another try. The A/c ran a couple minutes and then tripped. You’d think it would until the batteries were too low. Incidentally the batteries were at 100%. I charge them at 90A instead of the posted 150A. If the 150A charge setting is used it also trips the 300A Optifuse.

[Geronimo John]

4 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

You are correct, the 200A breaker is used to turn off battery feed to the inverter and thus, all AC circuits.

As I know you know, but I think for clarification:  

Yes so long as you are not even for a second hooked to shore power, the 200 amp does as you said.  It stops the flow of power to the AC circuits.

But if shore power is restored, even just for a few milli-seconds, the auto transfer switch sees shore power, and transfers power to the  120 circuits.  Hence killing the 200 amp breaker with cycling of 120V shore power does not make the 120V  system "Safe".  

Such has occurred when one of my unit's generators simply ran out of diesel.  The electrician was inside checking voltages and the Sgt refueled and restarted the unit.  Fortunately the electrician had one hand in his pocket and the other in the panel.  He was pretty upset with Sgt, but was not injured.  My lesson:  LOTO and Strict Key control. 

For us, it is just please also disco the short power. cord flip the breakers where needed, and be sure that your inverter is also disabled.  

[Geronimo John]

40 minutes ago, aaronorange said:

At the time it tripped it was pulling 88 amps. This happened today, stopped at a rest stop for lunch and thought I’d give it another try. The A/c ran a couple minutes and then tripped. You’d think it would until the batteries were too low. Incidentally the batteries were at 100%. I charge them at 90A instead of the posted 150A. If the 150A charge setting is used it also trips the 300A Optifuse.

It sounds like you may have either a high resistance connection.  It would be heating up a lot.  A thermal sensor (Like we use for checking brake temperatures) would spot that easily.

Or you have loads that are not on your view screen yet.  For example:

• Like your litho's are force charging the TV AGM's.  
• Like the hot water heater switch is on 120V (Switch lower left hand corner of the hot water heater (outside).

With your Clamp on Amp meter/Multi Meter you can trace the current flows and voltage drops to see where all that energy going.  You can also check the accuracy of what you Gizmology is telling you. 

GJ

Edited 7 hours ago by Geronimo John