Where Are The Jack Points?

[Tony and Rhonda]

I've seen photos in the mudflap threads indirectly showing decals pointing to the jack points. I couldn't see exactly where the jack points where from the photos. I'm assuming the jack points are on the steel axle sub-frame behind the rear tires/axle but would someone please confirm their location. Are there jack points in front of the front tire/axle?

What type of jack is recommended? Do owners use the TV jack, bottle jack or some other jack?

Thanks, Tony

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Tony and Rhonda said:

I've seen photos in the mudflap threads indirectly showing decals pointing to the jack points. I couldn't see exactly where the jack points where from the photos. I'm assuming the jack points are on the steel axle sub-frame behind the rear tires/axle but would someone please confirm their location. Are there jack points in front of the front tire/axle?

What type of jack is recommended? Do owners use the TV jack, bottle jack or some other jack? Thanks, Tony

This is not the official answer, but the easiest way to change a tire or service bearings. You will not need a jack, instead only jacks stand(s). BTW, it's extremely difficult to get any kind of jack on the steel sub-frame, so if using an external jack you would have to lift the aluminum frame which is not a good idea.

Use the onboard leveler jacks to get your Oliver up on one side, wheels off the ground. Then place the jack stand(s) supporting the axles (not the frame) at the point just inside where they are u-bolted to the leaf springs. In this manner, you are not contacting the frame at all. The axles are designed to support the weight of the trailer.

If you are changing one tire to fix a flat, one jack stand on that axle point is sufficient. If you are doing brake and bearing service, put stands under both axles as pictured, If you want to service all four with 4 jack stands you can then do the other side. If you tear apart all 4 brake assemblies for servicing, make sure you take good pictures before doing so.

Edited Tuesday at 03:15 PM by jd1923

[Snackchaser]

 

I agree with JD.  However, I solely rely on the Oliver’s stabilizer jacks when traveling.  These jacks can easily lift wheels and it would take a lot more force than just lifting the wheels to torque the frame or damage the jacks.  Even though they don't recommend it, the trailer jacks will never slip-off, or fold-over, which has been the cause of countless injuries.  

 

[Tony and Rhonda]

Thanks for the replies. I had read that Oliver does not recommend using the stabilizer jacks but that will make one less thing to haul around. It will be replaced by a jack stand or two, which I had not thought of.

Thanks again, Tony

[jd1923]

23 minutes ago, Tony and Rhonda said:

Oliver does not recommend using the stabilizer jacks

Manufacturers always recommend what limits their warranty liabilities.

You can use just the stabilizer jacks for a quick tire change, but having a jack stand is a redundant safety measure. I will not get under a vehicle without it. In the picture shown above, I had it up on stands 2 days on each side to completely disassemble and rebuild everything. I wouldn’t let the weight sit on these internal stabilizer jacks for  long periods of time, but some do and they would likely be fine.

[Patriot]

@Tony and Rhonda

I cannot speak for early model Olivers, but our Hull #634 has labels for all jack points on the frame. I clearly remember being told by Oliver Service to use these jack points (pic) and NEVER the axle as a jack point as you risk possibly damaging the axle. So per Olivers advise, I never use the axle as a jack point or place jack stands supporting the axle. Some  owners will use the levelers as a jack to change a tire. Again not recommended by Oliver likely and most wisely for liability reasons especially if the leveler should fail. But what could possibly go wrong? 🤷‍♂️
 

Rather than go down the 🐰rabbit hole, here is an old thread talking about all things jacking up your Oliver. You may find it interesting and entertaining. According to the link below earlier models had a shorter frame and as a result no jack point marker/decals.
Stating the obvious here, it’s a good idea to always keep your tow vehicle coupled to the trailer when lifting it. 

Here is the jack that lives in my TV and for our Oliver. It has strong reviews and it happens to be on sale now. -https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-620471-6000Lb-Unijack/dp/B00GJJZ5NI/ref=srj

Edited Tuesday at 05:41 PM by Patriot

[Tony and Rhonda]

I was mostly concerned about changing a flat, so it sounds like the on-board jacks are the best route if that is necessary. A previous owner installed the 5200lb Never lube axles so I think we have the longer steel sub-frame to lift on if needed. 

Thanks for the links @Patriot, I read the old jack thread with interest and I've not seen a bottle-jack-stand combo before.

I should have searched the forum before posting this thread. Sorry.

[Patriot]

2 hours ago, Tony and Rhonda said:

I was mostly concerned about changing a flat, so it sounds like the on-board jacks are the best route if that is necessary. A previous owner installed the 5200lb Never lube axles so I think we have the longer steel sub-frame to lift on if needed. 

Thanks for the links @Patriot, I read the old jack thread with interest and I've not seen a bottle-jack-stand combo before.

I should have searched the forum before posting this thread. Sorry.

@Tony and Rhonda

Tony, no apology needed brother, we are all in this together and passing info forward is what it’s all about. Forum thread searches are not always seamless, don’t ask me how I know 😄. Many times I just open source google a specific topic of interest regarding Oliver TT and it pops right up on Google. Thank you for posting this up! 

[jd1923]

4 hours ago, Tony and Rhonda said:

I was mostly concerned about changing a flat, so it sounds like the on-board jacks are the best route if that is necessary. A previous owner installed the 5200lb Never lube axles so I think we have the longer steel sub-frame to lift on if needed.

I did mention the method I use was not the official OTT position, but so many of us the Oliver stabilizer jacks for quick jobs like changing a tire.

Another thing, I did not state to jack the axle. That would be wrong, as stated in the instructions @Patriot cited. They do so because someone inexperienced could use a floor jack and jack up the middle of the axle. If doing so, it would likely bend, throwing off the alignment of the wheels attached to that axle.

It's good practice to put a jack stand under axles when working on a truck or trailer, period. I've been doing it for 50 years and all professional mechanics would agree. People have literally died, crushed under vehicles 100s of times since the model-T.  

You jack by other means and place the jack stand for safety. It has a rounded top holder that the axle fits into nicely and you place it as close to the wheel as possible. In the case of a trailer, adjacent to where it is u-bolted to the leaf springs. I promise, any axle is strong enough regardless or 3500 or 5200 lb. ratings.

You can go without for a tire change, but be careful, and you certainly should for maintenance work like packing wheel bearings on a trailer. I have one jack stand and a bottle jack in my TV toolbox and if I did not already have these tools for decades, I strongly recommend the combo unit that Patriot linked. That tool must be awesome, great idea! Get one.

OK, so what I found today is going to be revealing!

These instructions are quoted from the 2016-OTT-Owners-Manual.pdf:
Loosen the lug nuts on the tire you want to remove. Check for a stable footing under the jack and place an ABS footing pad or block of wood about 4” in height below the jack foot plate. Raise the jack until the tire clears the ground, then finish loosening and removing them. Pull off the old tire, slide the hubcap out backwards and insert it on spare. Set spare tire evenly on the lug nuts and hand tighten lug nuts. Retract jack back to travel position. Now tighten lug nuts completely. Lug nuts should be torqued to 90 ft lbs. Place the flat tire in the spare location.

From at least 10 years ago, OTT knew and put in writing that you could, should use the stabilizer jacks to change a flat tire when on the road. Then they hired lawyers who got in the way of physics and the basic common sense of good mechanics.

I rest my case. 😎

[jd1923]

I thought I was done, but...

The older hulls did not have labels for jack points.

Be VERY careful if jacking up you Oliver at these locations. If your jack arm is too wide or it slips you could so easily crack the fiberglass hull there. It is surely safer to use the stabilizer jacks.

To have viable jack points, OTT could have made the steel sub-frame 18-24" longer so that there was steel at the jack points. Instead, the marked jack points are on the aluminum frame. When I purchased our Oliver, it had two broken welds, two cross-members disconnected, right behind the curbside wheel. Right where the jack point label is shown in the picture above.

[Geronimo John]

11 hours ago, jd1923 said:

You can use just the stabilizer jacks for a quick tire change, but having a jack stand is a redundant safety measure. 

I do so annually for bearing and brake service.  

I also think it a good idea to stack up your dunnage under the jack you are using.  That shortens the amount of jacking you need to do, and and also the lever arm against the jack should there be a problem.  In this case leverage is bad.

GJ