Truma A/C CP Plus Panel

[JDB_Traveler]

We are scheduled to have our Dometic A/C swapped out for the Truma Aventa in March, does anyone have any thoughts on whether you should have the CP Plus panel installed or just stay with the remote.  The panel is an extra $600 so I want to figure out if there are any big advantages to having it.  When I looked at a video on how to use it it actually seemed like more of a process then the remote.

[Rolind]

We have a factory installed Truma Adventa with both the panel and the remote.  We never use the remote and have found it glitchy with poor connectivity.  It has to point directly at the ir receiver on the Truma, it often seems out of synch with the wall panel and the time is never correct for long on the remote.  However, You cannot access the dehumidification mode on the panel, only on the remote. We don’t use the dehumidification mode any more because it turns the trailer into a meet locker and we now use a small countertop  dehumidifier. 
Maybe we would have a better experience if we used the remote regularly instead of occasionally.

Just one man’s opinion!

[Zodd]

We have never used the remote. The Oliver is not that big, and it feels like more work to get the remote and point it in the right direction than just stand up, take 1-2 steps, and use the panel. 

[Rivernerd]

23 hours ago, JDB_Traveler said:

The panel is an extra $600 so I want to figure out if there are any big advantages to having it

I agree with, and second, the comments posted above by Rolind.  We also have the factory-installed Truma system with the CP Plus wall control.  Although there was a definite learning curve, we now find the CP Plus wall control fairly easy to use, and would not be without it.  In your shoes, I would grit my teeth (yes, Truma stuff is expensive) and buy the CP Plus wall control.  I expect you will not regret it once your are using your new Truma Aventa AC.

Edited February 12 by Rivernerd

[Steve and MA]

We upgraded to the Truma Aventa and opted for the remote instead of spending extra on the CP Plus panel.  The CP Plus doesn't control non-Truma devices, so there's still a separate wall thermostat for the heater.  We have the Truma water heater, so it would have controlled it too, but I understand troubleshooting water heater issues is easier with the rotary dial control than with the CP Plus panel. We mounted the cradle for the Truma remote on the wall using VHB tape, next to where we had already mounted the cradle for the MaxxFan remote.  We don't have to get up out of bed in the middle of the night to make adjustments. 

[MobileJoy]

See Truma Aventa Observations for my review of the Aventa with CP Plus panel.

On 2/11/2026 at 2:22 PM, Rolind said:

We don’t use the dehumidification mode any more because it turns the trailer into a meet locker

We do use it because we can counter the meat locker effect with the non-Truma  (Dometic I think) heating system which can be run simultaneously. I do not know if the Truma heater can do this.

[Patriot]

@JDB_Traveler

We had the Truma retro fit done a few years ago, and reeeeeally like it. We always use our remote to operate the AC and not the panel. Ours works fine.

The optional Truma CP plus panel was a must have for us as a back up to the remote. If our remote should ever quit working we have the CP plus panel as a back up to dial in our Truma. If you only have the remote and it quits working your “flapping” aka - no way to operate our Truma.

Pro tip/field experience -make sure that when the techs do the install that they take extra care to make sure there are no kinks in condensation lines that connect the Truma to the OEM drain lines. I made sure to gently remind the installers of this and have never had any issues with our lines not kinked or draining.  There were a few earlier installs that had this issue and eventually had to be corrected so it’s worthy of mention. It’s nice to use the OEM factory drain lines to keep water from draining onto the roof. It just makes for a nice clean OEM install and keeps your roof condensation free and ceramic coating or wax job looking great.

Also note, there are two condensation cups on each rear corner of the Truma. They are not very deep and do fill up with condensate as the unit operates. It’s important when you set up camp to have your Oliver dead level. When your Truma is running this will keep the cups from over flowing on to your roof and draining like they are suppose to.

**We brought our old “Demonic Penguin” back home and sold it on FB market place it to a guy for $600 who installed it in his food truck. The techs at Oliver helped load the AC in the bed of my truck for transport.

**Consider having the RV or Truma soft start installed IF Oliver still installs them. If you ever run a generator you will appreciate the soft start install.

We could not be happier with our Truma Aventa and how quiet it is and how fast it cools and dehumidifies our Oliver.One of our top mods to date.

Welcome to the forum and I hope this info helps you!

All the best with your install! 

Edited Saturday at 08:32 AM by Patriot

[Rolind]

Pro tip/field experience -make sure that when the techs do the install that they take extra care to make sure there are no kinks in condensation lines that connect the Truma to the OEM drain lines. I made sure to gently remind the installers of this and have never had any issues with our lines not kinked or draining.  There were a few earlier installs that had this issue and eventually had to be corrected so it’s worthy of mention. It’s nice to use the OEM factory drain lines to keep water from draining onto the roof. It just makes for a nice clean OEM install and keeps your roof condensation free and ceramic coating or wax job looking great
I can attest to the importance of no kink in the condensate lines. But with some minimal modification you really only need one to drain both

cups.