KarenLukens Posted December 17, 2016 Posted December 17, 2016 I marked the water tank as wtr and I am making a guess that this white tank on the left is water correct? It would make sense to have the gray water outlet as close to the bathroom as possible to help flush the line but it looks like the connection must be at the back end of the black tank where I marked it in the picture. The valve is marked with an arrow, and I am assuming that this is the gray water tank? Then the black tank itself, not shown, would be under the toilet and in the front of the trailer? I looked but couldn't find a picture with all of the tanks in place on the Elite II, so I am asking because I really want to know where the tanks, elbows and valves are sitting below the inner liner. It looks like the front valve must go to the black tank and the back one must go to the gray, but if it is what it is, then I can see why a rinse line is needed. We have heard that the tanks drain slow but do you elevate the front end to make it drain faster usually, or not? Seems like elevating it as much as possible without unhooking from the tv would work a lot faster then just letting it drain level. Is there a ¼" per foot drop in the drain line? Or is it just level under the trailer? Thanks, Reed :) I'm a retired Industrial Plumber/ Boiler Engineer/ and I'm still a Gold Miner only on a smaller scale, so I have a clue with plumbing and water. It would be nice to see a colorized trailer schematic of the plumbing if you have one available and another of the electric. I've watched Buzzy's movies, thanks Buzzy - but I want even more technical info, hehe :) Happy Camping, Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle 2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4 Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II
Moderators topgun2 Posted December 17, 2016 Moderators Posted December 17, 2016 Reed, I can help with one of your questions - yes, the black tank is basically under the toilet. To see it, simply open the "hatch" under the dinette seat nearest the bathroom. Then look inside the hatch towards the bathroom. Here you will see the black tank with its fluid level sensor on the side and the plumbing coming out from it to include the valve that prevents backflow from the grey water tank into the shower pan. Hope this helps you a little. Bill 1 2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist" Near Asheville, NC
Overland Posted December 17, 2016 Posted December 17, 2016 I'm curious what else goes in the floor besides those two tanks. I know that there's a heater duct that snakes along the left to the bath, but other than that, is all that space left empty? Also, maybe it's an optical illusion, but are the tanks sitting on top of some aluminum blocks? Is that to keep them off the floor so warm air can circulate? I've also always been curious as to why the Grey tank is L-shaped. I wonder what the reason for that is.
KarenLukens Posted December 17, 2016 Author Posted December 17, 2016 Thanks Bill :) Then that means the valve at the back is for the gray water out of that black colored gray water tank I marked in the picture. And that also means that you want to drain the tanks separately. First drain and completely rinse the black tank line with the gray tank valve closed. Then close the black tank clean out valve, let the remaining water in that part of the line finish draining; and then open your gray water drain valve after making sure that the black tank is shut off so that there can be no contamination resulting from the black tank line being plumbed in line and before the gray and then both drains plumbed together to dump out the back. Different trailers drain differently but this is the first trailer where I have seen the 2 lines plumbed together and obviously this is to keep it between the shells where they can't freeze. So the only draw back is that toilet paper, etc... could get caught up and forced down the gray tee towards the gray water valve if the drain line or drain hose gets backed up, which is unlikely. Then you could run the black tank rinse again to clean out anything that back-flowed up that 8' space between the valves if there ever was a clog. The only draw back is the possible cross contamination that could happen if someone opened the gray tank valve while the black tank valve was open. In other trailers like the Casita, we are told to leave the black tank valve opened so that the water coming out of the gray will help clean the bottom section around the valves. But in this case with the Oliver, you don't want to have the black tank valve open at the same time. One other question, totally unrelated is when looking at the back of Olli, to the right of the trunk, is what looks like another water inlet connection. What is this connection for? Happy Camping, Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle 2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4 Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II
Overland Posted December 17, 2016 Posted December 17, 2016 You can pump water into the fresh water tank from there. Good for if you're boondocking and carrying extra water with you in your truck. Or with a filter you can pull directly from a stream. It's also used when winterizing. 1
Moderators topgun2 Posted December 17, 2016 Moderators Posted December 17, 2016 Yes! And, that inlet really does work (in conjunction with the water pump). This past summer on two separate occasions I had several people watch in amazement as I used this inlet to transfer water from an eight gallon water container into the fresh water tank. All I had to do was stand there and watch the water disappear from the eight gallon carrier. I know this sounds silly, but, if you have ever tried pouring fresh water into the non-pressurized water inlet of a "normal" camper, you will certainly appreciate the magic of this Oliver inlet. <p style="text-align: center;">Note the blue container at the back of Twist.</p> Bill 1 2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist" Near Asheville, NC
Moderators topgun2 Posted December 17, 2016 Moderators Posted December 17, 2016 Here's another view of the fresh water tank that clearly shows it sitting on the floor - not on blocks. <p style="text-align: center;">Bill</p> 1 2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist" Near Asheville, NC
KarenLukens Posted December 17, 2016 Author Posted December 17, 2016 Yes! And, that inlet really does work (in conjunction with the water pump). This past summer on two separate occasions I had several people watch in amazement as I used this inlet to transfer water from an eight gallon water container into the fresh water tank. All I had to do was stand there and watch the water disappear from the eight gallon carrier. I know this sounds silly, but, if you have ever tried pouring fresh water into the non-pressurized water inlet of a “normal” camper, you will certainly appreciate the magic of this Oliver inlet. Note the blue container at the back of Twist. Bill Thanks Bill, again :) Looks like we have the same tank. Have you tried putting the tank up on the bumper and just siphoning it into the tank? This is what I have now that I used with the Casita, fast forward to 6 minutes to see the siphon. Sounds like I don't need it but I have my set up still. You only have to pump it 3 times to get it going, it was new when I did the video and I should have spent some more time with it - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Y7hZ-UU8CI&t=40s&list=PLcAJzGCJ3Q7yOUukK6J90g1oq9dK7Bqq0&index=5 I think that the aluminum blocks under the tanks are probably set at different heights to tilt the tanks for draining, etc. And because you want as much storage as possible, the L shape of the gray water tank is simply adding more storage area :) Happy Camping, Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle 2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4 Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II
rideandfly Posted December 17, 2016 Posted December 17, 2016 Reed, I can help with one of your questions – yes, the black tank is basically under the toilet. To see it, simply open the “hatch” under the dinette seat nearest the bathroom. Then look inside the hatch towards the bathroom. Here you will see the black tank with its fluid level sensor on the side and the plumbing coming out from it to include the valve that prevents backflow from the grey water tank into the shower pan. Hope this helps you a little. Bill Reed, Here's some old file photos. Photo of what Bill describes, black water drain line on left and grey water drain on right: Here's the back flow valve top left, and black tank valve: Hope this helps! 1 2015 LE2 #75 / 2024 F-150/5.0L
KarenLukens Posted December 17, 2016 Author Posted December 17, 2016 Check this out on yours - Happy Camping, Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle 2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4 Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II
KarenLukens Posted December 17, 2016 Author Posted December 17, 2016 Thanks Bill :) I'm surprised to see that they used no-hub couplings but it will help with the vibration wear I guess. Just have to remember to tighten them after a rough road or check them a couple times a year. You're definitely going to want to replace them before they get old enough to start cracking and letting that smell into the house... 1 Happy Camping, Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle 2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4 Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II
Moderators topgun2 Posted December 17, 2016 Moderators Posted December 17, 2016 Reed, No, I've not tried the siphon deal (yet) - I guess it was just too easy to let the pump do the work and not even lift eight gallons of water that LOOOOOng distance up to the top of the bumper. Besides, with the solar and not having to worry about electricity, why not let the machines have their day? I wouldn't worry about that "low" point in the cold water line that you are pointing to. Since one is putting enough antifreeze in the lines so that it comes out of the faucets, there is certainly antifreeze at that low point. Bill 2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist" Near Asheville, NC
KarenLukens Posted December 17, 2016 Author Posted December 17, 2016 Reed, No, I’ve not tried the siphon deal (yet) – I guess it was just too easy to let the pump do the work and not even lift eight gallons of water that LOOOOOng distance up to the top of the bumper. Besides, with the solar and not having to worry about electricity, why not let the machines have their day? I wouldn’t worry about that “low” point in the cold water line that you are pointing to. Since one is putting enough antifreeze in the lines so that it comes out of the faucets, there is certainly antifreeze at that low point. Bill Well, ummm, :) I don't use the antifreeze or add anything to the waterlines... and we shouldn't need to if they are laid out correct. After they are properly drained, you should be able to blow into them freely and feel no back pressure. If anything, I will add Vodka but generally after checking the lines, draining or removing the 2 shower hoses and raising the tongue, with all valves open, after a couple minor adjustments it will all drain on its own. I can add air and blow them out also but my goal is to follow each line, make a couple adjustments like leveling this elbo, and have it draining completely on its own. We're going to put our full time queen size bed in with shelves down the curb side, so I really don't want to have to get to the valves unless necessary. Happy Camping, Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle 2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4 Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II
rideandfly Posted December 22, 2016 Posted December 22, 2016 Reed, Checked/tightened the hose clamps on the black and grey water lines under the dinette seat this morning. Saw a couple drops of red RV antifreeze under the grey water line and a clamp was loose. Guess this is a good reason for using red RV antifreeze in traps and pressure lines, making it easy to spot leaks. Thanks for the tip, 2 2015 LE2 #75 / 2024 F-150/5.0L
Mainiac Posted December 22, 2016 Posted December 22, 2016 I have ALWAYS blown out lines, and then added RV antifreeze. I just make sure we have the waterheater on bypass and we will make sure the Oliver freshwater tank has a bypass too. By running antifreeze from one point it saves condensation, in the lines from the compressor, and as the faucets run red we let them for a few to put antifreeze into the plumbing traps. When the pressure has gone from the lines, we open all by pass lines, and its ready for spring. In the spring we open all faucets till the red is gone, fill the water heater and we are ready to go... 1
KarenLukens Posted December 23, 2016 Author Posted December 23, 2016 I have ALWAYS blown out lines, and then added RV antifreeze. Yup :) If I lived there I would be doing the same as you for sure. Here in Northern Cal it gets below freezing but not often so I haven't had to put antifreeze in because of the mild climate. I'm thinking with the Olli and having the Truma AquaGo water heater plumbed with its heated recirculating line, that the nights when it is going to get below freezing that the recirculation line if it's ran properly and coupled together with the other 2 water lines (hot & cold), should be able to put out enough warmth to keep the crawl space heated enough on its own even set on low at 41°. Setting it up to comfort sets the temp at 113° throughout the lines but being that it will be keeping both the recirculation and hot water lines either at the 41° or the 113° when switched to comfort, it might put out to much heat and make us open a window because it's running from the water heater to the shower and back... :) Hopefully they plumb them together so I can wrap maybe the 1¼"ID foam insulation around the 3 lines to hold the heat in. Mostly we will be traveling the southern states in the winter, so I won't be draining the water unless there's no other choice... The outside shower looks safe enough with the door being insulated so well. I have high hopes for our first Olli :) Happy Camping, Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle 2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4 Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II
KarenLukens Posted December 25, 2016 Author Posted December 25, 2016 I found the schematic picture of the grey water tank in Buzzy's owners manual.pdf pg55. ( Thanks Buzzy :) ) You can see the block under it for elevation drainage - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zhs9yglj5uvkkx9/AAAdfjcB_nd4KTke3NNcCXcDa?dl=0 Happy Camping, Reed & Karen Lukens with Riffles our Miniature Poodle 2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II Standard, Hull #200 / 2017 Silverado High Country 1500 Short Bed 4x4 Past TV - 2012 Mercedes-Benz ML350 4Matic BlueTEC Diesel Click on our avatar pic above to find the videos on our Oliver Legacy Elite II
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