How To: Galley Drawer Travel Straps

[John E Davies]

AKA, how to keep your kitchen gadgets inside the drawers when traveling, where they belong. And to keep from busting the latches away from the wood.

 

The standard Soft Close system is cool but totally hopeless in terms of keeping the drawers closed if there is any weight at all in them. Especially on twisty roads where there are repetitive G loads to the left.... Oliver offers some additional latches that mount behind the drawers but they are flimsy plastic, problematic to install and you lose that lovely Soft Close feature.

 

I chose to install 1 inch nylon webbing and stainless footman loops. I chose black since I knew they would be hard to keep clean, and I preferred high contrast so I could see at a quick glance that they were installed and tight... You may prefer white webbing.

 

 

 

 

 

All the parts are very high quality and came from Raingler Nets.

 

Qty 2: Footman loop 1 inch PAIR. https://raingler.com/products/footman-mount-set

 

Qty 2: Tie down strap 1 inch x 72 inch, with pvc coated flat hook. https://raingler.com/products/tie-down-strap-with-hook

 

Qty 1: Steel flat hook PAIR, pvc coated. https://raingler.com/collections/hardware-accessories/products/flat-hook-set?variant=23658618433

 

I did swap the plated screws for stainless, and I waited until I was finished to trim the excess webbing. I ended up removing 20 inches from each. That leaves a short length for grabbing and lets you loosen it up enough to unhook and remove each strap, without having to completely unthread the webbing from the buckle. This also keeps the loose hooks from getting lost.

 

When not towing, I store the two straps in the bottom left drawer, which is my electrical/ junk drawer.

 

They work great, and provide good peace of mind when the roads get interesting.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Raspy]

That's a very simple and practical way to lock the drawers closed without putting any extra stress on them.  I like it.

 

We haven't had any indication that the drawers are opening, but they could be, and I'm also always wondering about the dresser drawer too.

 

We took Ollie on some very rough roads last trip.  The dinette window covering fell off and, of course the dinette cushions took a hike.

[John E Davies]

That’s a very simple and practical way to lock the drawers closed without putting any extra stress on them. I like it. We haven’t had any indication that the drawers are opening, but they could be, and I’m also always wondering about the dresser drawer too. We took Ollie on some very rough roads last trip. The dinette window covering fell off and, of course the dinette cushions took a hike.

Our dresser drawer opened and popped the screws out of the wood within the first 50 miles. Whe have not been using it while moving. I am going to install a locking stainless latch in that drawer, the same as the two outside locking compartments. It shouldn't be hard to do, but I am waiting for Winter for that one. I'll start a thread on that mod.

 

The dinette cushions will stay in place if you turn the vertical ones 90 degrees so that they are against the outside wall, slighly wedged under the table. That is our preferred orientation for eating and travelling. They stay in place pretty well.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

 

 

[Raspy]

We always turn our dinette cushions 90 degrees as you suggested.  Only works if the roads are good.

 

We were 4 wheeling on the last trip,  seriously steep, rutted and rocky.  Probably, the drawers were opening and closing, but no indication of it.  Cushions went flying and the dinette window cover went flying.

 

My Ram was in low range, 1st gear and spinning a bit trying to pull Ollie up the trail.  Carefully picking my way around the holes and rocks.

 

I've already shimmed the catches on the overhead doors to keep them closed and the TV is center mounted with a cord running under it to keep it up.  The fridge gets packed carefully, the microwave tray gets packed away and the bathroom door always gets locked.  We keep it pretty simple inside with nothing hanging on hooks and the bed pillows get stuffed back next to the dresser.

 

After this last trip I'm ready to secure the drawers better.

[ShallowGal]

repetitive G loads to the left….

I have no idea what that means but this one gets an A+!

[John E Davies]

John E Davies wrote:

repetitive G loads to the left…

.

I have no idea what that means but this one gets an A+!

Right turn, left turn, right turn, straight, right turn..... It's very typical of north Idaho highways and especially back roads...... The fun eastern part of the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway is 100 miles of tight hairpin turns. So is the Million Dollar Hwy in Colorado.

 

Left turns will tend to keep the drawers closed, in right turns the G force tries to open them, and sometimes succeeds. The Soft Close latches are pretty weak. When they are open and you hit a bump, spatulas go flying. It is really wierd to enter the trailer and find the drawers closed but lightweight kitchen stuff in the middle of the isle, or under the table.

 

I am sure this happens in all of these trailers, to a certain extent. Most owners are unaware of it. I was tempted to duct tape my phone to the bathroom door to video the action, but I never got around to it. If it happens even a little, it can damage stuff, rip the screws out, bent the mount latches. Not good... it is best to restrain the drawers for any enthusisatic and/or twisty driving. Specially if you store heavy items in there.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

[Try2Relax]

That’s a very simple and practical way to lock the drawers closed without putting any extra stress on them. I like it. We haven’t had any indication that the drawers are opening, but they could be, and I’m also always wondering about the dresser drawer too. We took Ollie on some very rough roads last trip. The dinette window covering fell off and, of course the dinette cushions took a hike.

 

John, you bought yours used, I think I remember you saying before, if so all the units before 2016 with the side mount slides are much more robust and have not opened for anyone I can remember posting about. Reading your other update, it definitely seems you will be the test case for when they might though ; ) having managed to knock your window covers off..

[KarenLukens]

We had window covers come off yesterday also but Woodruff Lane has always been a great short cut to hwy 20, though bumpy. I actually scrapped the tongue yesterday also but we are home once again :) When I know that we are going to be going over bumpy, twisty roads, with the King bed we can just pull the comforter down over the foot and secure the right side cabinets. Since I adjusted and added magnets that actually work behind the drawers, we haven't had a problem.

[Raspy]

Reed,

 

Ah, yes.  Woodruff Lane.    It's an excellent place to get some air over the RR tracks.  Been there, done that.

 

My favorite way to get to Chico.

 

BTW, how do you insert an emoji in the text?  Can't figure it out.

[Raspy]

Randy,

 

Yeah, the drawers seem secure because they have a nice stiff hold when closed, but I don't really know if they are opening or not.  So far I've pulled that trailer over some pretty tough "roads".   But I just take it slow and pick my way.

 

By the time Liye is bumping her head and Gogo is sliding off the console, I have to cool it.  Ha!

[KarenLukens]

Reed, Ah, yes. Woodruff Lane. It’s an excellent place to get some air over the RR tracks. Been there, done that. My favorite way to get to Chico. BTW, how do you insert an emoji in the text? Can’t figure it out.

 

Go to your Main Profile page, hit the edit gear under your pic/edit profile, scroll to the bottom to “Forum Signature”. You can click the question mark telling you to click the text tab but the tab is on the far right next to the Visual tab. Once in the text tab you can insert the pic

 

Here's a guide, I had pics in here somewhere for it but...

 

 

 

http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/map-in-signature-block/

 

 

[Raspy]

I'm just wanting to put a smiley face or other emoji once in a while.  Can't follow the directions you gave.  Sorry to be so bad at this.

[Spike]

Since two others have reported window covers falling off during transit, I thought I would ask here if anyone has come up with a way to better secure them. We have had the dinette window cover fall off twice during bumpy rides. Luckily, there was no damage to anything, and we were able to replace the covers, but I don't like worrying about the next time. I've considered adjusting the clips that hold the frame in place somehow in a way to better secure the covers. Has anyone done that successfully? If so, how?

[John E Davies]

I’ve considered adjusting the clips that hold the frame in place somehow in a way to better secure the covers. Has anyone done that successfully? If so, how?

The clips on Mouse were installed incorrectly, like so many of the little nuisance things I have been fixing over time

 

There is a thin, very hard plastic spacer behind each steel clip. The installer drilled a small hole straight through the spacer and the window frame, then drove the screw down. Anybody who has installed two parts together will understand why this is so very wrong.

 

The hole in the spacer MUST be larger than the hole in the window, preferably the same diameter as the outside of the screw threads. With a bigger hole the clip will pull down hard and flat against the frame (into perfect alignment).

 

With a small hole the clip can rest at an angle, which prevents the ears from fully engaging the blind frame, and it holds the frame too far out, so the next clip is also less than fully engaged! The frame comes loose there and can fall off during travel.

 

Once all the clips are ALL lying PERFECTLY flat, you can rotate them or bend the ears outward for extra gripping force, and the frames should stay put.

 

I fixed two at a rest break, while my wife and son watched with amusement, on my last trip and I will redrill them all sometime. I was going to do a "How To: REInstall Your Blinds Properly" thread. Maybe you could do that, take pics, otherwise it might start to look as if I am angry about my trailer.....

 

I'm not, really, I love it, I am just increasingly frustrated that one or two sloppy/incompetent/ untrained/ hungover/ part time/ unsupervised/ rushed/ whatever technicians could have screwed up so many little and seemingly insignificant installations that care and common sense would have prevented.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

[skalywag]

Reed,

 

Thanks again for the assist. Some of this forum is not all that intuitive.

 

Cheers,

 

 

file:///C:/Users/DIG/AppData/Local/Temp/VisitedStatesMap.jpg

[KarenLukens]

 

I was going to do a “How To: REInstall Your Blinds Properly” thread. Maybe you could do that, take pics, otherwise it might start to look as if I am angry about my trailer….. I’m not, really, I love it, I am just increasingly frustrated that one or two sloppy/incompetent/ untrained/ hungover/ part time/ unsupervised/ rushed/ whatever technicians could have screwed up so many little and seemingly insignificant installations that care and common sense would have prevented. John Davies Spokane WA

 

Now that's funny there, John :)

 

We reversed all of ours the other day so the dark slides up from the bottom for privacy at night. Now we can slide them up at night and leave them open about 6" and see out just fine, but nobody can see what your wearing from the outside anymore. When we removed them, 2 of them had the screws stripped... as usual... and the screws came out with the blinds... then after putting them back on with only 4 hold downs until I fix them... one came down on the road from hell :) but they just land on the bed or on the couch and quickly go back up.

 

I had to realign the hold downs on one when we bought the trailer. Having them all mounted flush and horizontal is the key, and then having them not stripped out helps... It is one nasty road but it cuts off 20 minutes :)

 

The bigger the screw... Lol.

 

Reed

 

 

 

[Spike]

Thanks, John. I will take a look sometime at the spacers behind the clips. What you wrote makes sense. If I do a fix, I'll try to post some information about it as you suggest. However, I wouldn't worry about folks assuming that you are angry about your Ollie. I am sure that they, like I do, find interest in your informative posts and are grateful for them. I have learned a lot from them and from those of other knowledgeable Oliver owners on this forum.

 

--Jeff

[DavePhelps]

John Davies wrote:

"I’m not, really, I love it, I am just increasingly frustrated that one or two sloppy/incompetent/ untrained/ hungover/ part time/ unsupervised/ rushed/ whatever technicians could have screwed up so many little and seemingly insignificant installations that care and common sense would have prevented."

I feel your pain John. I too have been having to fix a lot of stuff and shake my head sometimes at the lack of attention or care by the detailers at Oliver. Sorry to say, great folks at Oliver, but they need to slow down, tool up, and start paying attention to the details.

 

Regarding the shades falling off. Yep, we had the same issue. The clips were zip screwed into the window frame. They were neither in alignment or in plane. I shimmed them out with thin nylon washers so they were in plane (flat) with each other and also added an extra clip here and there which Oliver gave to me.  No problems so far. Really I'm not a big fan of those shades, although they work OK I guess. But they are bulky and the frame color is not the nicest. There are some marine shades I've seen that are much slimmer and attractive, but for now I've got bigger fish to fry.

 

Dave

[ShallowGal]

any enthusisatic and/or twisty driving

If there is any of that, I'll be hurling into the barf bag. Thank you for the G-force education & I do wish you would film it!

[Monlezun]

Hello John,

 

Was interested in securing our gallery drawers as you described.

 

Could you tell me what you used to secure the footman loop's on the lower 2. Did you just use a wood screw and go for it blindly, so to speak?

 

I can easily access the top 2 and will use stainless screws with washers and nuts for strength and  security.

 

I appreciate your comment and recommendation on this matter.

 

Thanks,

 

Malcolm M.

[John E Davies]

Hello John, Was interested in securing our gallery drawers as you described. Could you tell me what you used to secure the footman loop’s on the lower 2. Did you just use a wood screw and go for it blindly, so to speak? I can easily access the top 2 and will use stainless screws with washers and nuts for strength and security. I appreciate your comment and recommendation on this matter. Thanks, Malcolm M.

Hi Malcolm, I used stainless panhead sheet metal screws (not wood screws) at the top and at the bottom. They don't need nuts on the back. The load on those screws is really really low. Unless you plan to fill the drawers with horse shoes or ammo....

 

Drill a pilot hole the size of the minor diameter (unthreaded part), or slightly larger, and then countersink lightly. The gel coat will not chip and the screws bite down really hard.

 

 

I swapped the supplied plated screws for stainless, from Ace. I think they are 10 x 3/4", basically whatever is a snug fit in the holes.

 

I have been using these straps for a few trips now and they work great. No issues at all, other than remembering to install them before towing.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Monlezun]

Thanks for your quick response John.

 

We are leaving in 2 weeks for Zion and Grand Canyon with fellow RV'ers and want to get this done before the trip.

 

I have the straps and footman loops on order and expect them very soon.

 

Again, thanks for this great fix for a concern I have had for a while. We have had the drawers fly open while traveling and found the mess on the floor. Not fun when some of the spill was spices and seasonings. Not a happy wife!

 

We have reservations for the 2018 Rally and hope to meet you and so many fellow Oliver owners to thank them for all the input to better serve the experience.

 

 

[DavePhelps]

John Davies wrote:

 

"Drill a pilot hole the size of the minor diameter (unthreaded part), or slightly larger, and then countersink lightly"

 

This should be emphasized whenever drilling holes in gelcoated fiberglass. The countersinking is an especially important detail that takes no time at all.  Oliver really needs to start doing this as there is fractured gelcoat around every mounting hole I have looked at. The pilot holes have been undersized and not countersunk, not good practice, and so easy to do it right to begin with. For exterior holes, the countersink also creates a thickened area of sealant around the fastener, which creates a much better weather seal. Any boat builder who knows what they're talking about would say the same.

 

Dave

[Tralien]

Any equally clever suggestions for the mirrored cabinet doors?

 

Bob

 

 

[DavePhelps]

Bob,

 

Not sure what you mean, but if your doors are opening when they aren't supposed to, then you have two adjustment options. The strike can be moved in or out a bit. And the hinge screws can be loosened allowing the door panel to be moved up or down (placing the strike closer to the latch if moving up). I try to get the reveals equal between the door and frame and gently tighten down the hinge screws, but overall function will supersede that. It's a good idea to go through the trailer once a season and make sure everything is snugged down. Don't over-tighten! Just good and firm. My doors have so far been behaving. Hope this is what you meant.

 

Dave