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DavePhelps

Hot water tank Anode

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Cleaning and winterizing today. Do you think it's time for a new anode? The bulk of the oxidation is at the nut. The rest of the anode is a little pitted, but in pretty good shape. Is this typical? First time dealing with this.

 

Dave

 

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2015 Oliver Elite, Hull 107


1998 Ford E-250, 5.4 liter

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Dave -looks good to me.  Rule of thumb (from what I've heard) is change it when 70% or so is gone.  Mine looked a tad worse than yours after two years!

 

Bill

 

 

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Thanks Bill,

 

I didn't want the anode to break off from the nut! Mine is two years old as well. Guess I'll give it one more year and see.

 

I also recommend anyone doing this to flush their tank out with a wand made for the task. A lot of junk came out (the ring of granules in pic). Be sure to close the bypass valve behind the tank first so as to not accidentally blow any debris into the valve.

 

Dave

 

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2015 Oliver Elite, Hull 107


1998 Ford E-250, 5.4 liter

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Dave - Good suggestion on that flush of the tank.  I have the same "wand" that you do and I kept moving it back and forth - up and down for about ten minutes before the water ran clean.

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Dave, the anode rod has a steel core so it is unlikely to fall off. Even if it did, it would be easy enough to drag out of that big hole. There is nothing else at the bottom of the tank - the heating element is further up.

 

Be sure to clean the threads on the anode and also inside the hole before reinstalling with new thread sealer.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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Ditto with everyone else Dave, mine looked worse than yours ( may - november), i just reinserted it and will check it in he spring sometime.

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STEVEnBETTY

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Yes, I just found out that there is a steel rod down the center of the Magnesium(?) anode (thanks YouTube). Saw a picture of a very spent anode but the steel rod was still fine so no worries about it falling off inside the tank. So do you folks also do the vinegar soak and rinse? I just am wondering how far I have to go with this. Is there a way to siphon vinegar through the winterization port (in back) so it just goes into the hot water tank? Or do I have to remove the T/P Valve and pour it in there (more likely)? Lots to learn here. Thanks

 

Dave


2015 Oliver Elite, Hull 107


1998 Ford E-250, 5.4 liter

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Dave - nope, have not done the vinegar thing.  That rinse is to help get even more of any deposits that might be on the inside of the tank off.  Given the look of your rod and the amount of "stuff" that you got out of the tank I seriously doubt if you need to do that.

 

Bill

 

p.s.  the anode rods are made out of either magnesium or aluminum.  I wait until I see one on sale (they are less than $20) and then buy it just to make sure that I always have a spare one in the workshop for when I do the annual winterization thing.  If I have less than 50% of the rod remaining I just go ahead and change it - primarily so that I do not have to keep checking it any other time during the camping season.

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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On our anode rods, we do not replace until there is an inch or less remaining on the end of the wire. As a matter of fact, the more pitted the better. The pits make for more surface area. It is a sacrificial in nature, same as those on the bottom of a boat or outboard, if you are familiar. It also depends on the chemical balance of the average of the waters you use. I have had some anodes last longer than the life of the trailers they were in.

 

 

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