Cabinet to replace microwave

[SeaDawg]

So, Paul was very busy today. Took out the old microwave that died from lack of use, years ago.

Since we almost never camp with power, I want to replace it with a storage cabinet.

Has anyone done this as a retrofit? Or at purchase?

Looking for ideas. I'd like to keep the 110 outlet, but not necessary. We'll pull the rest of the fitting bits and threaded rod, etc from the original install of the unused microwave., and "archive" them somewhere in the garage.

The space occupied by the microwave is huge compared to the storage inside the actual microwave cavity. Kind of excited to create a new dish locker. Or something..

 

Originally, I had hoped to replace the microwave with s mini oven, but none of the European models that fit the space have even fair reviews.

So, cabinet it is. Perhaps convert to an oven in five or ten years. We'll have a spare gas connection, as we are also replacing the three way fridge with a danfoss compressor electric refrigerator.

Sherry

[SeaDawg]

 

 

[Try2Relax]

What are the dimensions of that opening?

[Overland]

We got the door/cabinet option from the factory and use the smallest Breville toaster oven in there, which *almost* fits.  We definitely have gotten more use out of the oven than we would have the microwave.  I don't know how your microwave was wired, but ours just has a 120 in the cabinet above and a hole to run a cord through.  I can measure the exact size of the door Oliver installs if you want.

 

When you get the option from them, they build a cabinet inside that isn't much larger than the door.  In fact, it's smaller than they told us it would be which means we got stuck with a larger oven than will fit.  In fact, if someone is considering the factory option, know that I was actually given one set of dimensions early on, which was different from what's listed on the measurement pdf, which was different from what I overheard Heather telling a customer on the phone while I was picking up our trailer, which was different from what was actually in our trailer.  So good luck, buyers!

[Try2Relax]

I asked about the size of that one because her trailer is old school and that opening is bigger than what ours would be, I've had the microwave out and it doesn't even look close.

[Overland]

That's a good point - I didn't look at the photo.  The door and frame Oliver uses wouldn't be nearly large enough to retrofit.

 

Sherry, did you decide on the Isotherm?  I'll add an update to the fridge thread that you might read if you haven't bought one just yet.

[SeaDawg]

I haven't measured the microwave cavity, yet. I'll try to look at it tonight when I am home again.

Overland, we have pretty much decided on the truckfridge version of the Isotherm classic 130. Same box, pretty much, but built for a different market, so a little better price.

They're out of stock til mid-January, so I am still looking around at drawers. Just hesitate to spend that much on a refrigerator and freezer.

 

In the microwave cavity, We, too, have a 110 outlet at the top.

Sherry

[DavePhelps]

We opted out of the microwave and am sure glad we did. The resulting cabinet has been an incredibly useful and much needed pantry for storing all kinds of stuff we use on a daily basis. In the Elite, there is just not a lot of storage, and this cabinet has really been useful. The interior dimensions are: 21-1/2"wide x 14" deep x 13" tall. The actual opening is a bit smaller because of the face frame and the door itself. That opening is 19-1/4 wide x 11" tall.

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

[SeaDawg]

That looks nice, Dave. I'm sure it's a lot of extra storage-far more than the tiny cavity of my long dead microwave.

Thanks for the photos. Gives us ideas to work towards..

The back of your cabinet is white. Is that cabinet board, or the hull?

Sherry

[DavePhelps]

The entire interior of the cabinet is some kind of birch (or the like) plywood. That's just the lighting fooling the eye in the pic. All surfaces are the same color. There is also a rubber mat on the floor. Wine bottles fit nicely in there!

 

Dave

[SeaDawg]

Well, new year, back to work.

Thanks for the dimensions, Dave. I wonder about the exterior dimensions of the trim kit Oliver made.

Our cavity opening isn't rectangular, as you can see in the photo.

It's 21.25 wide, except the top two inches, where the notch reduces the width to 17.25. Height at center is 14, and 12 at the sides.

Depth is 15" at the top, but without moving conduit, useable depth would be limited to about 12.5 inches..

Sherry

[SeaDawg]

A question for overland. Is this the brevelle oven you chose? Looks great.

 

https://learn.compactappliance.com/breville-bov450xl-review/

 

 

[Rumline]

Hold up...Overland, when you said the toaster oven almost fits, does that mean you just use it on the counter?  Or did you make it fit in the cabinet?

 

If one wanted to put a toaster oven in there, rather than opting for the cabinet option, could they simply remove the stock microwave and put in the toaster oven?  Then the space wouldn't be so tight.

 

I recall reading somewhere that Oliver can't put a convection oven in the microwave space due to venting.  But there are convection ovens that are front-vented for being installed in cabinets.  What am I missing?

[SeaDawg]

Rumline, good questions.

 

I don't know of any toaster oven designed to be used in an enclosed space. Even the more expensive double wall ovens get hot on the sides and back.

 

The inside of the microwave cavity isn't "finished" or lined, so we will need to construct a cabinet box to use it as clean storage. Or, take it to Oliver and let them do it. since our trailer is ten years old, the dimensions of the openings are likely different, and the current trim kits won't likely fit, so it may be simpler to just do it ourselves.

 

I'm kind of thinking of a top hinged door, that would cover the entire opening, (like my horizontal kitchen cabinets at home,) so that I can keep a wider opening to the new cabinet.

 

Also thinking about a slide out shelf or possibly two. I doubt I could use the Brevelle oven, either, due to depth. But for as little as we'd use it, a black and Decker compact convection oven might just work fine in the available space. And I could just slide it out to use it safely, if we built a slide out shelf.

 

Well, those are my thoughts so far. We'll see how it works out. I'm more concerned about getting the refrigerator in, first, but do wish for the designs to work with the rest of the trailer.

 

Sherry

[Alison]

One thing I’m not clear on - if you opt for the storage compartment, is there a 11o outlet in it?

 

 

[Mike and Carol]

One thing I’m not clear on – if you opt for the storage compartment, is there a 11o outlet in it?

The 110V outlet for the microwave is in the overhead storage cabinet directly above the microwave. You can have them put additional outlets just about anywhere you want. Mike

[Mike and Carol]

A question for overland. Is this the brevelle oven you chose? Looks great. https://learn.compactappliance.com/breville-bov450xl-review/

We have this Breville for use at home. Works great. Mike

[Overland]

A question for overland. Is this the brevelle oven you chose? Looks great. https://learn.compactappliance.com/breville-bov450xl-review/

Yep, that's it.

[Overland]

Hold up…Overland, when you said the toaster oven almost fits, does that mean you just use it on the counter? Or did you make it fit in the cabinet?

I had to break off the little safety bumpers on the back so that I can scoot it back for the door to close.  We just have to make sure we pull it back out when using it so it doesn't cook the rear wall.

[Rumline]

I don’t know of any toaster oven designed to be used in an enclosed space. Even the more expensive double wall ovens get hot on the sides and back.

 

I was thinking of these: https://www.lowes.com/pl/Built-in-microwaves-Microwaves-Appliances/4294715795?refinement=4294805928,4294786927

 

But they won't fit in the Oliver's microwave cavity anyway.

 

I'm considering storing a "regular" counter top toaster oven in there and then take it out for use.  My family uses a toaster oven all the time, but all we use a microwave for is heating frozen stuff, which I'm not sure we'll have much of when traveling.  Anyway, threadjack over.

[SeaDawg]

No threadjack. I'm interested in ideas, or I wouldn't have put the post out there. I misunderstood your earlier comment.

 

Fwiw, there are a few convection microwaves made for rvs, but I don't know of any that would fit the depth of the Oliver microwave cavity. Width and height not an issue, I think. Maybe that will change in the future, as appliances in general have become more efficient as they've evolved.

 

I'm all good with a big cupboard, and space to carry a toaster oven if we plan to camp somewhere with electricity... A real rarity for us.

<p style="text-align: left;">Sherry</p>

 

[SeaDawg]

So, today I spoke with the customer service manager at truckfridge . Com about our available space, etc. Super communication with Andrew. He volunteered to measure the new model when it comes in next week to make sure nothing has changed, and it will fit in the cavity, and through the door and entry.

 

So, making progress.

 

Jason was kind enough to send me specs on drawer fronts today, and promised full measurements on microwave replacement cabinet soon. I think we may have room for a small drawer under the new fridge for shoes/ dustpan/whisk broom, etc.

 

We'll see how it works out when we have the new fridge in hand, and build the box.

 

I'm excited to have one more appliance running on solar, instead of fossil fuel.

 

Wish me luck...

 

Sherry

[Overland]

I’ll be interested to hear what you learn about a cabinet underneath.  Seems borderline on ours. I do know there’s a ton of space behind the fridge, so you might talk to Jason about a storage hatch to replace the lower exterior vent.  Could be useful for something I guess. I’ll see him next week when I take the trailer in to be finished so maybe I’ll ask about both.

 

Btw, the new ASU unit has our fridge working now, but it’s still too cold on auto and everything directly beneath the freezer stayed frozen for the duration of our last trip. I’m getting a fan for the interior to see if that will distribute the temperature better and we’ll try it like that for a bit. On manual the fridge works fine but of course I’d like to get the ASU thing working if I can.

[SeaDawg]

I'm guessing our old school cavity is cut larger than yours. Our old fridges were much wider ( by 4 inches), and taller ( by six inches, I think), and the old style cavity was " extra generous".

 

I don't think we'll get six inches of storage, after we build a box to support the new fridge. Probably four or five. Maybe only three.

 

But, it will get the bottom of the fridge off the floor, and I'm grateful for that. And any inches of storage I can get. I hang the small broom and dustpan off the wall under the small dinette on Velcro. I'd be very happy to only store them, and slippers, for that matter.

 

Truckfridge doesn't offer your asu, but I'd like to know how that works out for you. I can cancel for another week.

 

I can still connect the power saving unit, I think. It's supposed to work with any  Danfoss compressor, with permutations. ..

 

When I spoke with Andrew at truckfridge today, he mentioned that the marine products required coast guard approval, and stainless in places where galvanized works fine where saltwater exposure is not an issue.

 

Hence, a big difference in price. The door is one standard color. Black. I'm ok with that. I've had a black fridge, two brands, ten years.

 

I hope you get the asu issue figured out. Its definitely a great idea.

 

In our earlier norcold, I had to store produce on the bottom, in heavy Tupperware, to keep it from freezing, and still keep the beer cold. Not ideal, from a food safety standpoint, but it worked.

 

Sherry

 

 

 

 

[SeaDawg]

And, that's a great idea on the exterior hatch. Thanks. There is a lot of potential wasted space behind the fridge.

 

We plan to add insulation board on the sides and tops, but this unit is way more shallow than the dometic. And, there is already an opening, and  exterior hatch cover, in the old vent cover.

 

The compressor is mounted high. We'll see how it all lays out.

 

Thank you!