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Philips53

Greetings!

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Hopefully you guys in Philly didn't get too hard with this last bout of "winter" weather.  Welcome to the land of Olivers.  While you can read all about them here on the Owner's Forum, the real way to get to know these campers is to either take a factory tour or at the least arrange a viewing with a current owner in the Philly area.  Certainly, if you have questions - fire away.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Steven from Philly, welcome. You are going to have questions. Ask them here, lots of folks willing to help. Mike


Mike and Carol | Fair Oaks Ranch, TX | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram Rebel 4X4 5.7L Hemi

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpg

 

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Thanks. Haven’t been in Philly lately (five week trip). Going back Monday. Going to winterize my MiniMax on Tuesday because four nights in the 20’s. You Ollie’s don’t have to do that as long as you keep the heat on, is that right? If so, about what temperature would you have to maintain inside on a night expected to be below freezing for say 6 hours and go down to a low of say 25°? This is just a hypothetical example, but I’m trying to get an idea, as the “insulated” properties are very appealing to me. Thanks.

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For repeated exposure to subfreezing temps you should winterize at a minimum the four outside lines by injecting a lttle antifreeze with a hand pump, no more than three or four pumps, to clear out any residual water close to the outside, plus rinse both the shower head lines with AF. There is no easy way to do the shower without flooding the main water system with AF, so air makes more sense for a partial winterization.

 

The fill lines are protected by internal check valves a foot inside the hull, so if you ensure that all water has dripped out of the outer section before capping them, you “should” be protected, but adding the AF is a sure fire method. Some people are OK with only blowing air through the entire system, this is not as reliable, but if you want to winter camp it makes a lot more sense....

 

I can’t comment on a recommended inside temperature, I don’t camp during this season. But you should never rely solely on internal heating for freeze protection, unless you are going to be monitoring the trailer temperature. Plus you need a backup heat source in case the furnace fails or the gas runs out.... say an electric heater and shore power.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA


"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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I've been camping with temps as low as 22 degrees with no heat on inside the Oliver and no harmful effects, but since I didn't stay up all night I can't tell you exactly how long it stayed at that temp.  I didn't winterize anything.  However, since the daytime temps were in the low 80's the day before, I'm certain that everything was nice and toasty prior to that overnight chill.  For reference, it was in the mid 30's inside the camper when I got up to turn the heat on.

 

Given the situation you describe, I would think that an interior temp in the mid 40's with hatches and/or drawers open to allow heat between the hulls would be more that sufficient to protect you.  But, as John points out, there are a couple of areas that just might be a bit more venerable at that interior temp- such as the area around the winterization port, the black tank flush port, and the exterior shower.

 

I would certainly err on the side of caution in this area.

 

Bill

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2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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Thanks. Imma read your how-to threads. What type of hand pump do you mean for the antifreeze? How do you like the toilet? I currently have a LG Mini Max and since I’ve never had a trailer before I think a couple years with a 17’er will be a good way to get the experience I need for something like the Ollie EII.

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https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=multi+use+transfer+pump

 

Try the above link for the kind of pump that you can use for adding anti-freeze to any camper.

 

I assume your question about the toilet is for John given that he has the composting throne.

 

Certainly the smaller Oliver can fit into places that the larger one can't.  However, both are very easy to tow.  You really should arrange to see both before you you decide.

 

Bill


2017 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

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https://smile.amazon.com/Valterra-P23507VP-Plastic-Hand-Pump/dp/B00594AAJS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542571006&sr=8-3&keywords=RV+antifreeze++pump

 

You need it for the three left side fittings, not the right rear one which is connected to the inside water pump through a valve under the bed. You move a few ounces per stroke of the pump. It does not take much to fill a small water line.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

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"Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II NARV (Not An RV) Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/john-e-davies-how-to-threads-and-tech-articles-links/

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 33" LT tires, airbags.

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