sailorashore Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 How I Installed a Battery Cut-Off Switch: After much delay becuse I couldn't figure it out, I finally installed a battery cut-off switch on our Ollie hull 217, and it turned out easy to do. We store the trailer at a remote covered location. I didn't like to keeping the batteries on charge for long periods, and I didn't like the seemingly unavoidable small drains take the batteries down over time. My new switch installation cures both these problems. I know other owners have installed similar switches, but still wanted to share my method. The installation will be familiar to anyone with boating experience. I wanted the switch inside for convenience, and because I had installed safety bolts on the slides on each side of the battery rack. The rack is really secure, but removing these bolts takes a bit of time. Fortunately on my Ollie both of the two hot (+) wires installed by the factory and and coming off the batteries both go through the aft compartment wall and into the space underneath the streetside bunk. That greatly simplified my switch installation. The steps were: 1. Disconnect & remove batteries from rack. With four batteries there are a lot of short connecting wires. Take a picture or make a sketch before you disconnect anything so you know battery orientation and what wires go back where. 2. Install a Blue Seas or similar marine battery switch underneath the streetside bunk. With a properly sized hole saw and a bit of sanding the body of the switch can be placed into the under-bunk compartment with only the switch face projecting into the living space. 3. Pull the two factory installed hot (+) supply wires through the aft compartment wall and into the space under the streetside bunk. Do not disconnect the wires from their connections inside the under-bunk compartment. 4. Prepare and run a new hot (+) supply wire to run from the batteries to the new switch. There needs to be enough slack so that the battery rack can be pulled out once the installation is complete. In my case I used 48" of #6 gauge wire, with a 5/16" and a 3/8" terminal at each end. Only #6 gauge wire, because most everything in our Ollie is low amp load LED or solid state. If I had a larger amp draw, perhaps from an inverter, I would have used #2 gauge wire for the new supply run, and used automotive lugs which can handle a higher amp load. Run the new supply wire through the battery compartment wall and hook up to the input side of the Blue Seas switch. 5. Continue to leave the old hot (+) wires connected to the factory installed terminals inside the under-bunk compartment. Prepare new runs for these two wires backwards so they can be hooked up to the load side of the new switch. Cut the wires to the right length so they can be connected to the new switch without too much excess length. Install new wire terminals and connect these two wires to the load side of the new switch. Secure these wires from vibration along their runs with self-stick mounts and cable ties. 6. Carefully reinstall the batteries and rewire. 7. When desired, turn off the new switch to completely disconnect batteries from the trailer load. If plugged in, I disconnect shore power before doing so. Best regards to all, John Shkor SailorsAshore 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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