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Posted

The winterize inlet on my Oliver Elite II trailer requires me to apply pressure in just the right spot/angle to get it to start pulling water or antifreeze into the water supply lines.  Sometimes it seems as though it is never going to start pulling.  Any tips on how to get this inlet to work more consistently?

I am typically using a short white hose with standard threads attached to the inlet and then dropping that into water or antifreeze.

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Posted

My guess is that you are not getting a good seal between your hose and the inlet.  If you can, I'd try putting another or thicker washer on the hose and see what happens.  Note that if you are not getting a good seal then it is easier for the water pump to be "sucking" air versus "sucking" the water that it is supposed to.

Bill

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2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

Near Asheville, NC

Posted

I had an issue getting it to pull mine also when the bottle of antifreeze was sitting on the ground. I moved the bottle up on top of the bumper and it worked great.

 

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2019 Ram 1500 5.7L V8, 3.92 axle ratio - 2020 LEll - Hull676

 

 

Posted (edited)

I picked up the trailer last night and tested the inlet with two washers and it did work without the normal coaxing that I had done previously.  I also placed the bucket of water on the bumper to improve flow. 

I have ordered new screen washers to replace the original ones. 

Edited by mjrendon
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Posted (edited)

Take a look at the rear water inlet closely straight on with the cap off.
Do you see a HEX shape in the entry port? 
If yes, then that port is the same type of stainless connector used on the street side of the trailer and it may need to be snugged up a bit.
Those inlets are installed and tightened carefully with a 1/2" hex key. (Which is pretty large.)

The stainless inlets have a rubber O ring on the back side of the fitting where it joins main mounting plate.

I had mine vibrate loose once, and I didn't have the 1/2" hex wrench so I simply used a pair of needle nose the first time to snug them up.

 If the inlet is too tight it will squish the rubber o-ring that seals them and the chrome barrel that connects to the hose won't freely spin.  
If they are too loose, then you'll have an air leak (and water leak).   
The right tightness on the hex bolt will allow the connecting ring to spin freely yet maintaining a seal on the unit.

I now have a 1/2" hex key on board.

The part  used by Oliver is: 

Ambassador Marine, Model #P56-0191-SS
Requires 1/2" Hex Key for Tightening
 
p56-0190-ss-600x600.jpg.1d8baa757d97935fc720c41f146da18b.jpgp56-0190-xx.jpg.02bbcae8db4c8b3c614b0b0279f5d5c8.jpg
Edited by ctshort09
wording
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2019 Elite II (Hull 505 - Galway Girl - August 7, 2019 Delivery) 
Tow Vehicle: 2021 F350 King Ranch, FX4, MaxTow Package, 10 Speed, 3.55 Rear Axle
Batteries Upgrade: Dual 315GTX Lithionics Lithiums - 630AH Total
Inverter/Charger: Xantrex 2000Pro 

Travel BLOG:  https://4-ever-hitched.com

 

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Posted
35 minutes ago, ctshort09 said:

Take a look at the rear water inlet closely straight on with the cap off.
Do you see a HEX shape in the entry port? 

This is great information. I had Oliver check this inlet port in October and they mentioned tightening with a hex wrench then. They checked it and said there was no problem.  After returning to Austin I still had the same issues as before. Ordered a wrench and found that the hex nut was tightened properly.  

Posted (edited)
On 2/10/2021 at 9:44 AM, ctshort09 said:

Take a look at the rear water inlet closely straight on with the cap off.
Do you see a HEX shape in the entry port? 
If yes, then that port is the same type of stainless connector used on the street side of the trailer and it may need to be snugged up a bit.
Those inlets are installed and tightened carefully with a 1/2" hex key. (Which is pretty large.)

The stainless inlets have a rubber O ring on the back side of the fitting where it joins main mounting plate.

I had mine vibrate loose once, and I didn't have the 1/2" hex wrench so I simply used a pair of needle nose the first time to snug them up.

 If the inlet is too tight it will squish the rubber o-ring that seals them and the chrome barrel that connects to the hose won't freely spin.  
If they are too loose, then you'll have an air leak (and water leak).   
The right tightness on the hex bolt will allow the connecting ring to spin freely yet maintaining a seal on the unit.

I now have a 1/2" hex key on board.

The part  used by Oliver is: 

Ambassador Marine, Model #P56-0191-SS
Requires 1/2" Hex Key for Tightening
 
p56-0190-ss-600x600.jpg.1d8baa757d97935fc720c41f146da18b.jpgp56-0190-xx.jpg.02bbcae8db4c8b3c614b0b0279f5d5c8.jpg

I had this issue, on the "City Water" connection.  I bought a 1/2" hex  socket attachment and tightened it up.  All other similar connections were tight and no issues with any of them since.   

Edited by SNY SD UP
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Maggie & Bryan | Arnegard, ND | 2020 LE II "Twins" Hull #665 | 2021 RAM 2500  6.4L HEMI Gasser  4dr  6.5' bed

 

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