Fridge Fires??? Fridge Defend by ARP ???

[John E Davies]

Here is the lower hatch for the Dometic in Hull 218 

You have to say to yourself, what were the Oliver engineers thinking? I can "barely" touch the heater cable with my finger tips at the upper right side of the pic,  where it enters the burner, no way could I actually open the outer cover. In order to mount the control box and the big fan in there, I could eliminate that wire junction steel plate at the lower left and install WAGO connectors and heat shrink....  That would open up some space. I originally thought about remote mounting the display, but decided that is not a great idea for a number of reasons.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[bhncb]

8 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

Here is the lower hatch for the Dometic in Hull 218

Have you considered enlarging the lower vent. This should be an easy job with a big payoff..

[John E Davies]

18 minutes ago, bhncb said:

Have you considered enlarging the lower vent. This should be an easy job with a big payoff..

The hull mold was altered when they switched to Norcold.

I borrowed your image and stacked it above my image.

Pretty sad, eh? 

John Davies

Spokane WA

[bhncb]

22 minutes ago, John E Davies said:

The hull mold was altered when they switched to Norcold.

I couldn't remember seeing if yours had the early or late style. Their were some later LEIIs built that had the enlarged indentation but with the small vent. I remember being concerned about this issue when I ordered my 2018, which were still Dometics at the time. 

[NCeagle]

Yeah, not much room in there.  I think your idea of removing that junction box to make room would work, but you would still want to aim the blower to get air flowing up the left side as that's where your cooling absorber coils are.  If the blower blew air straight up into the boiler I think it would be defeating the purpose of the boiler a bit.  Also, the fan temperature sensor goes on the lower absorber coil and it's even obscured!  wow.

[SeaDawg]

Only good news, @John E Davies, when you ultimately change up to a compressor fridge, it's a smaller area to seal.

Yours is pretty much identical to our 2008. Interestingly enough, our first fridge was an older  norcold.  2nd a dometic. Now, compressor fridge.

[Roger P]

Hi,

I’m installing the ARP fridge Defend and i need help for the wiring. 
i’m not connected to short power, i opened (off) the 110 v main breaker and also the fridge breaker and get the 12 v 20 amp fridge fuse out and the switch for the solar charging is opened to (off). When i took the voltage from 12 v source at the fridge control ( outside ) i’m still having 12 volts on my volt meter? Where does the 12 v sources from the black and yellow wires coming from? 
All my connections are like the electric diagram that i joint in below but  when i connected the green wire (ground) from the controler, there is a sound coming from the ARP control? I installed a 5 amp fuse to the red wire and also a 3 amp fuse for the fans wires……

is it possible to get a closer picture of the connections from NCEagle?
 

thanks a lot!

 

[NCeagle]

On 10/5/2022 at 3:03 PM, Roger P said:

Hi,

I’m installing the ARP fridge Defend and i need help for the wiring. 
i’m not connected to short power, i opened (off) the 110 v main breaker and also the fridge breaker and get the 12 v 20 amp fridge fuse out and the switch for the solar charging is opened to (off). When i took the voltage from 12 v source at the fridge control ( outside ) i’m still having 12 volts on my volt meter? Where does the 12 v sources from the black and yellow wires coming from? 
All my connections are like the electric diagram that i joint in below but  when i connected the green wire (ground) from the controler, there is a sound coming from the ARP control? I installed a 5 amp fuse to the red wire and also a 3 amp fuse for the fans wires……

is it possible to get a closer picture of the connections from NCEagle?
 

thanks a lot!

 

@Roger P, this diagram is correct and what I used for our 2020 Elite II (Hull #688) - even though we don't have the older "recalled" wiring, so I suspect it's correct for you as well UNLESS Oliver has changed refrigerator models.  I tried to take some close up pictures of my wiring but it's just too difficult to see things since I've bundled and tie-wrapped all the wires.  I spliced the green wire into that green jumper wire between terminals 1 and 3, but you could also use terminal 4.  Anything that's ground / negative works.  I hope the buzzing from the ARP doesn't mean you accidently hooked the green wire to a positive 12v feed.  Best of luck getting your fridge defender installed!

[Roger P]

Thanks, i did it yesterday with this diagram and everything is working good!