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Yep, familiar with them. Didn't know they were doing composite frames, though. I've been inside a couple of their trailers before, wasn't too impressed. Very small, but it looks like they've upped their game with a 22 footer now. Interesting.

I recommend you leave your inverter off until you need to use 110, especially with AGM’s. As mentioned above, just having your inverter on and not being used draws down battery capacity. We rarely turn our inverter on.

The batteries are back to fully charged. They went to down to around 50%, when this happened, but back to 100% now.

Cortes Campers - Here is the link to their announcement

If your batteries are too low of voltage < 10.5v the 2000 watt inverter shuts down. the inverter should alarm on low voltage or give an E01 code. when you are in solar if the batteries drop too low the inverter will not turn on again until the batteries are charged When we boondock we leave the inverter off unless we need 110 as it draws down the batteries just being turned on. if you fully charge your batteries the inverter should begin working.

Interesting. What's the new company with the CF frames?

Wonderful information is flowing like Niagara Falls... I can barely swim and I see the 'mist' going over the edge, I went to the www.airforums.com out or curiosity. Checked: Running Gear- Axles, Brakes, Wheels & Tires. Went to Brakes and Brake Controllers: (The following is a cut and paste. A very nice job. I have a Bargman on the Oliver Elite II presently... just to update FYI.) Airstreams have identical issues, which does not surprise me. I have been lucky with mine buying new off the lot and checking it over before closing the deal. Although Airstream may sell hundreds every year and have thousands on the road. All operate the same kind of electrical brakes. Not good to hear. ************* My cut and paste********** Check your Trailer connector! Unless they have changed, for some reason Airstream uses Bargman (?) 7 pin connector on the trailer pig tail. These double contact ("duck-bill") connectors do not meet the SAE Standards and DO NOT play well with most of the OEM 7 pin sockets that meet the SAE Standard. It is such a problem that I believe all of the big 3 have put out bulletins over the years. Here is a bulletin that RAM put out --- https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilde...2BI1n%2Bn9n%0A I have that one as I drive a RAM 2500 Cummins. I switched my the connector on the end of the Airstream (2019) to a Pollak 12-706 and all messages about trailer brake disconnected and intermittent problems went away. These Pollak connectors are less than $8 on Amazon and it only takes a few minutes to cut the old one off and wire up the new one. The weird thing was this intermittent error didn't show up at first. However, once it started it progressively got worse. Its been over 2 years now since I changed the connector on the Airstream and have never had an issue since.

I have four AGM batteries and the inverter is always turned on when using the solar.

Your outlets will only work with shore power, a generator, or with an inverter turned on if you have one. More information is required. What batteries do you have

My 110 outlets are not working with my solar. Everything else works fine; lights, refrigerator, water pump, etc, but no 110 outlets. The outlets work while plugged into shore power or with the generator. This started when I was boondocking and did not notice my refrigerator was still set on DC, from traveling. When I went to make coffee in the morning, the electricity started struggling and eventually went out. I've checked all the possible fuses, breakers and GFCI plug, and all seem to be good. Is there a fuse for the inverter that is located somewhere else in the trailer, or could I have maybe fried the transfer switch? Thoughts? My trailer is an 2018 Elite II.

Thanks for correcting me. In his pic it looked like it was in the #4 fuse position to me.

15Amp is blue, and it's for the water pump. Pix of ours so you can read it in a 2019EII Hull 505 Notice that I crossed off the #5 AC breaker for the 12V Charger. When I upgraded to Lithium batteries I replaced our embedded 12V charger with a new combination 2000W Inverter/Charger . I disconnected the wiring from the 15A breaker for the embedded 12v charger to deactivate that circuit.

@BoondockingAirstream you may want to watch this before your tech shows up. How to troubleshoot electric brakes.

The Oliver’s fiberglass body is the majority of the 4900 lb dry weight. I’d conservatively guess the aluminum frame is around 2000 lbs, not including the running gear and hardware. So given their claim of 30% weight savings, it would save about 600 lbs. However, I’d question whether that 30% weight savings is compared to a conventional steel frame. If so, then you're looking at closer to 20% weight savings compared to aluminum, or 400 lbs . . . which is not significant IMO. If the frame costs more to make, and it’s a selling point, then just make sure that corners are not being cut elsewhere. Food for thought! Cheers, Geoff

Another Nevada owner that was very active on this forum was John Roemer @Raspy. He sold his Oliver for a Black Series, then moved on to other interesting travel trailers. He did a lot of mods, I forgot who bought his trailer, but it is still around.

I've never heard of a carbon fiber frame for RV's but given that thousands of road and mountain bikes are made from this material and given how they are ridden most likely a frame made of the same material would hold up well too. It's expensive to make, so one has to take that into consideration as well, meaning the price of admission for an RV made partly or whole with CC could become very pricey. Not that the Olivers are chump change, far from it.

Hi everyone... I am new to camping, and I am shopping for a trailer. There are so many out there, and a ton of options, and it is confusing me. I have found two models, but I'm not sure which to choose. The Oliver has a traditional aluminum frame. The other uses a new type of frame made of composites with carbon fiber, which they say is 30% lighter. Should I be concerned about this carbon fiber trailer? Do you think Oliver might move to this type of trailer?

According to the label on the fuse box door it's for the furnace. If you want to check your blue wire and white wire for continuity, just put a 12v test light between the blue and white wire connectors at the 7 pin and then activate your breakaway switch. According to the schematic, that should power the blue wire and the white wire should complete the circuit to ground to light the test light.

It appears you have brakes that work (from your break away switch test). But your 7 pin to brake connection isn't working. Hoping the RV Tech helps you out and gets it all set up correctly. As an aside to your brake issues....it's important whenever brake assemblies are new or changed to "burnish them" in before full trailer use. I learned when picking up Hull 505 that electric trailer brakes on new trailers must be BURNISHED or heated up to brake them in and seat them to the drums. When we started to pull away I grabbed the controller and squeezed...no brake action. I walked back into the service team and they showed me a page in the Dexter Service manual. They said I needed to burnish my brakes by driving on some back roads on my way to the first campground. I found that after about 30 applications my brakes where really starting to work well. The next morning as we pulled away I dropped the controller back to 5 out of 10 and I had working brakes on our trailer. This is NOT done by the factory that assembles the trailer. It must be done either by the DEALERSHIP selling the trailer....or more likely the OWNER. Hopefully you'll catch a break and things will all be fine after your RV Tech visit. To seat the brakes, Dexter and other manufacturers have a recommended brake in procedure. *See video&

Wow, such an old thread dredged up! I read it two years ago when I first joined the forum! Rivernerd, where you ever able to get OTT to assure the correct wire gauge in your hull? Doesn't matter for our 2016 but I'm getting new D52 axles next week. Wonder what gauge is used in the axles? And what gauge OTT installed from the junction box under the bathroom vanity and to the wheels. If I find this wire undersized I will replaced that section of wiring (and all of the usual butt connectors installed by OTT). Going to 12" brakes on the new axles and want them working correctly. But sorry, I do not need an amp gauge and temp gun (although I have both tools) to tell whether our brakes are working properly. You just need to get each wheel off the ground and test each by rolling the wheels and actuating the brakes, listening and feeling for proper drag. Make sure the self-adjusters are where they should be (tighten them as needed). Just did this in May prior to our long trip and in doing so found out our brake controller needed replacing. John E Davies was an artist when it came to Oliver mods! But many of them left me with the question, as to why? I believe wiring the brake wires external to the axle is nuts! Not only for the reason of road debris and zip-tie maintenance, and what a mess! And Pack Rats are big where we live and that external wiring covered or not would be a goner in a few nights out here, I promise! He also told me I was crazy for installing a metal-cased 7-blade plug. It has worked fine. No corrosion in the desert SW and its shorter profile allows me to connect and disconnect it more easily in a cramped space. The other thing is the suggestion to go to manual-adjust brakes, equally nuts! If you do, you better get yourself under your trailers every few hundred miles and adjust them yourselves. This means every week or two for those of you who tow 1000s miles trips! The only issue with self-adjusters is that they may not adjust adequately and so should be checked/tightened (they don’t over-adjust, they can’t). But, if you install manual-adjust brakes you must adjust yourself often, way too OFTEN! I do not mean to offend those who have made these changes but brake wires in trailer axles and self-adjusters on drum brakes have been industry standards for longer than our lifetimes. This Arizona Pack Rat looks too cute just sitting there. They are troublesome little SOBs and they take too much of our lives in trapping them and removing their nests from our property. Everybody in our town leaves the hood up on their pickup trucks so that their engine bay does not become one big nest made of hood insultation, wire insulation, shock boots, plastic parts, etc.

I do not offer any repair tips or clues. But... sure can look for them. I noted the Blue Fuse in the fuse box under the 'dining table'. Of course the door opens outward, you crawl under the table and discover that reading glasses are not enough to read the small print. But the BLUE Fuse number was not as clear as the others. Took a photograph, under the table and left room for my head and camera for the photo. My thought was... I had expired into the 'after world'. But photo flashed, I grunted.. she did not call 911. I finished a new possible discovery. Much like Columbus... but without a sail. Here I am. My very old Mac Computer was out of date, now have a new modern computer and things are... different. But this is my practice, like a being a horse, learning to carry a gal on a saddle... kind of experience. No spurs needed... I cooperate very well. If it is this fuse... I will keep it... frame it on the wall... and curse at it once a year on the repair date. I replaced a 15 year old computer than worked fine... but the software needed to use it... made it obsolete. Now a 2019 Oliver Elite II... six years old and turning me back into a Neanderthal that uses a walking stick as a... tool of sorts... if everything else fails? Whack it. What is the Blue Fuse...? Human Beans with an Oliver know. I cannot read the tiny print, backwards and upside down... Have a good day. Mine is coming Wednesday. I hope.

Snackchaser... removed the six screws with snap on covers. Yep... cable bundles down low. Very... non accessible location. Maybe for a chipmunk... but my head is bigger. Flashlight indicated nothing out of the ordinary. Good place to pull the bundles into the main cabin space. Spending way too much time in the Oliver 'John', I say. At least the connections of wires and junctions are easier to fine. Remove the covers and moved them to the Service Tech can get to business. At $175 an hour... in comparison, I am in the $1 a day payroll. This may be first and only Oliver Elite II in Nevada. I am the second owner. Now a gopher... go for this or that... for the Tech. Ice Water... no problem. Need a snack no problem. Need advice... keeping my mouse trap tight and quiet. I am an observer. Not a chipmunk chattering about fires in the Grand Canyon... geez. What next. Lost our great Off the Grid Boondocking campsite on the Rim. We have a Composting Toilet. Does that affect braking? Just kidding... I think.

When I inquired to Oliver Inc. I was told that the Brake wiring bundle goes into the Bathroom Toilet/Sink area. I pulled out my Garage 'scooter', laid onto it and scooted to find three threaded tubes going into the bathroom, behind the panel with six screws. They are there and intact. Nothing inside the space that smelled or looked out of place. Way down and low... I do not know if this is an area with any connections, or just the position for the wire bundles to enter the interior. From my adding reading glasses and a bright flashlight... just a convenient way to bring all of the wiring into the Hull. Good planning in my opinion. Nothing unusual to see beneath the Oliver frame either... but now know where the wiring bundles enters. We had 248,000+ miles on our 'old 1994 Land Cruiser', that sold in one day with a Craigs List ad. Ran perfectly, If I cannot get this figured out, I am inept with diagnosing anything electrical, unless it is smoking or hanging bare somewhere. I do not abuse my vehicle brakes and do not over use braking traveling slow or upon level highways. (NO, I have not towed up Pikes Peak in Colorado with either trailer... you knew that already. Going up and down in a 4x4 vehicle was interesting enough for my mother, wife and me showing them... a good time. They looked pale and dehydrated.) I read a post by John E Davies about Brake Wiring being undersized in 2018. Holy Cow... now what? Like a water bottler using paper screw caps, rather than more expensive plastic screw caps? If I had not all of my own natural Gray Hair from being a 1949er... it may turn grey after this. Which... may be a good side effect. My wife does not care. She helps me look around for obvious issues in the Oliver... which are not being obvious. I can wire a 1946 Wurlitzer model 1015 bubbler... but an Oliver Elite II is an entire line of jukeboxes from the transistor age. At least when I plug it in, deposit a nickel and it always works. I pace around the Oliver... and get lost in the process, Yeah... Service Tech. I hope to learn something. If he cannot figure it out... maybe rent it out as an apartment?

Our 2021 Toyota Land Cruiser had 500 miles of break in on the engine, before being installed into the vehicle. (From the Dealership quote.) Our 2019 Oliver Elite II apparently did not get one mile testing the BRAKES... Hope to know next week with a Mobile RV Service technician to figure it all out. Great post. Beyond my comprehension, but an excellent look under the Oliver.

Since we are close to build numbers... I took some more photographs before the Trailer Service Tech checks out my no Braking situation, I am hull #448 probably with all the options you may have in your #505. My other appliances and systems seem to work just fine, but my wire colors seem to be different. I do not know if Braking Ground in on the Buss Bar (?) if that is what it is called. I was expecting the same color wires. Although if grounds... maybe wire diameters are the important things to notice. There is a sticker of an Inspection sign off along the floor near the other wiring. Brakes? I may remove this sticker to find out what was... inspected. Other than the Electric Brakes connected to the Tow Vehicle, everything else seems to be working. I am forced to learn more about Electric Brakes in an Oliver, and now, maybe others can compare internal wiring that is visible, An Oliver in Nevada is like finding Trout and Water Falls in our Deserts. These wires are under the outside in the rear seating at the table. Manuals tell you HOW THINGS WORK... but do not have WHAT TO DO IF THEY DO NOT. I also have the four 6 Volt Batteries with Solar Panels. Work just fine. I could be organizing the garage, but that has been done. Maybe trim ornamental palms and flowering bushes, but that has been done. So... this is an education that I need. Not wanted... but curiosity is a good thing if it is to learn and understand more about my Oliver. Learning a lot about the 7 Plug Trailer Plug...