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Our Oliver had the RVLock installed when we purchased it (used). In the 24 or so months we've owned it, I've had to call RVLock three time with issues. First time was when the lock just stopped working. Not too big a deal since we could still lock/unlock the door with the key. They sent replacement parts and I installed. Second time was after we closed the camper door and the key lock (not deadbolt) locked us out of the camper. Of course the keys were inside the camper. Luckily we were at the storage yard where we keep the camper so we just drove home to get the spare set. Inconvenient but not catastrophic. RVLock sent a replacement paddle with lock that I have yet to install. Third time was after the lockout above. I ordered a spare set of two keys with the replacement paddle and RVLock only sent one key. Called them and they sent out another set of two keys at no charge. Now have three spares and never leave the camper without a set in my pocket. Since we are not the original purchasers of the lock, we've had to pay for the replacement parts and shipping. I've thought the costs were very reasonable and RVLock customer service has been very helpful and easy to work with. I'm not sure I would replace a manual door lock with the RVLock but it's installed so we'll use it until/unless it becomes too much trouble. I would prefer the locks like were on our Four Wheel Camper. It had a standard RV style paddle lock and a home style deadbolt. Much more robust than the RV style locks. @jd1923 Have you considered having your white powder coated door lock re-powder coated in gray? You'd have to disassemble it for powder coating but it would be gray.

I’d like to put an exclamation point on this thread by letting you all know that RVLock sent me out a whole new unit at no cost - keyed the same as our old lock - so we have 4 keys now - and with two new fobs. (Kind of ironic because aside from testing - we’ve never used a key or fob for our RVLock!) I’ve certainly had WORSE customer service out of things I’ve paid a lot more for than my RVLock. All things considered - I’d say the RVLock is about on par with the rest of the accessories on the Oliver. Pretty much every one of them has had a problem that required I fix, replace, or buy extra parts to make or keep something working.

There’s a saying among pilots who fly retractable gear aircraft “there are those who have landed gear-up, and those who will.” I’m glad you have had good luck with none of your stuff growing legs, but if you poke that bear enough - you will -eventually- get bit. I’m generally a pretty trusting guy. Relying on the goodness of my fellow campers to respect my property. That said, I was born and raised in Chicago - where leaving a door unlocked or anything tempting in plain sight is an outright invitation to theft. I’ve had a car broken into to steal what -looked like- a laptop bag. It was nothing but some work papers and political flyers. (Hah! Joke’s on you!) But - replacing that window cost me $60 and a lost day. When I moved to rural NE Texas - I never locked my car or my cabin door. Then again - my front door was a quarter mile from the road and folks in Texas have guns believe in the three S’s (shoot, shovel, shuttup) - even so - I had neighbors who lost some ATV’s and expensive mowers. Sure, your Walmart beach chair or grungy looking Igloo cooler are almost certainly safe left unattended at your camp site for hours or even days. Nobody wants stuff like that. But if you leave an E-Bike unattended - you’ve just invited a less-than-hi est person to help themselves. I don’t think I’ve seen a Honda generator that DIDN’T have a chain or cable on it. Folks DO pass through your campground who won’t share your midwestern upbringing and associated respect for your property. Especially places with easy road access and no security Leave something tempting enough out where an opportunist can see it and have little concern of being caught - and it WILL grow legs. I watched people cruising slowly through campgrounds and marinas with pickup trucks with assorted bikes and the like piled in back. If they see you watching them - they clear out fast. If you’re not watching them - who knows. I don’t tempt fate these days. Even if I’m in a relatively secure place, if my basement door is too close to the campground loop - I lock the door. I wonder what the actual “freeloader” statistic is for public campgrounds. Sure, if you show up between 10 and 4 on a weekend, you’ll likely find an employee. (Maybe not) But on a Wednesday after 6pm? It’s all on the honor system. I see campers in older or run-down units show up at a campground late - after the employees have left. They set up - and they’re gone at first light. Did they leave the required fee in the honor box? I don’t know - but certainly - no employee ever saw them.

Guess its probably an issue of funding. The campsites tend to be spaced further apart than those of other states providing privacy but more difficult to run water lines to.

Of course, OTT hasn't but I've also thought about this. I would love to take my Honda dirt bike (250 LBS) when we boondock BLM and FS lands, but hasn't been a priority. Taylor has the right idea; mount it front of the tow vehicle. You can keep an eye on it and adding front weight to a TV helps with overall balance. Front of Oliver, you'd have to remove the doghouse and LP tanks to put the weight further back allow for turning radius.

It seems crazy to me that private campgrounds CAN provide water to campsite in WI, but the state cannot.

On your way, stop by a Maverick or other service station! We fill the FWT and another 35 gal in the TV! BTW, in northern MN and Wisconsin, they need to bury these 5 ft underground to keep from freezing! Can’t blame them for not having one at each campsite!

I believe your inverter has a built-in ATS, so when it senses shore power it will prefer/switch to that power source. I replaced an older 2KW Xantrex inverter (only, no charger). It also did not have a built-in ATS so an external ATS was wired in line. I do not know Xantrex internals since I went with Victron. One thing that surprised me with the Victron is that it must be powered ON to allow pass-through 120VAC shore power (the one and only feature I do not love). That could mean if the Victron was to fail, shore power could not connect. I'm not certain of this and prefer not to learn this while camping, but I have the tools, wire nuts, etc. to bypass. I can also reconnect the OEM PD charger if this was to occur. I would certainly try the test Geoff suggested, which was what Dudley first suggested, but on your garage GFCI outlet. If it trips, you could try on your non-GCFI outlet, but if Geoff's hunch is correct, keep a careful eye, fire extinguisher in hand. We had a microwave-only model and knowing it's not healthy for anything but perhaps reheating coffee, I replaced it with an Emeril Air Fryer. 😎 This model fit well: Amazon.com: Emeril Lagasse Everyday 360 Air Fryer Oven, 9-in-1 Countertop Oven : Home & Kitchen I added vents and insulation, but I would think since your hull came with a convention oven the cavity should be prepped for oven heat. Camping last week, the first night monsoon rains were pouring heavy! We cooked indoors, ran the Emeril 30+ minutes while the Chill Cube A/C kept the cabin at 74F all day and night. Both were powered simultaneously on our 3KW inverter! You have the Epoch batteries which is a great start, and I hope very soon you can run your oven on inverter whenever you please!

It may be overkill but similar to @Patriot , I use the Calmark cover inside. Keeps the dirt off during storage so come season everything is clean and ready to go. Glad I bought one at the price I did when OTT still had them even though I don't desperately need one. My most desired Oliver upgrade is to get a ceramic coating - someday.

Update. I've been in touch with the owner for the last several months. She has a new manufacturing process/team. I've been patiently waiting on Calmark to start manufacturing covers again. The date gets pushed right every month and my OTT is in the sun (with a good coat of wax). I'm moving on from the wait list and going to go with another manufacturer. Any recommendations of good quality non-Calmark covers?

Sheesh. Lol. I won't touch this one.

Generally, no. There may be an exception or two but i dont remember for the three parks i mentioned. There are usually several spigots spread thru the camp ground. But they typically dont have a hose fitting so parking in the camp road to refill is probably difficult if not outright discouraged. You would have to take a 5 gallon bucket and refill doing the boondocking valve juggle to refill at most of these parks. This would be very possible with strategic selection of campsite. Now you know why i carry an extra 35 gallons of water in the back of my truck. The driftless area will be gorgeous going into the fall. All three parks i mentioned offer spectacular views if you are able to do some light hiking.

No.

I think we have confirmed WI SP's do not provide water at each site. At all. Do they always have a drive-in, hose accessible community spigot to refill the freshwater tank?

Just checked La Crosse. Their high is my low. Like you said, all a matter of perspective. BTW - Good luck with your next governor.

After reading through this thread, it seems that either the shore power GFCI breaker or the inverter GFCI breaker trips after running the microwave in the convection mode for a few minutes. That sure sounds like the convection oven is failing! A crack in the heating element could cause a low current leakage path to ground when it gets hot enough. It only takes several milliamps to trip the GFCI and it will reset after the oven cools down and the leakage path goes away. A standard thermo/magnetic breaker may not detect this condition and the element would probably just burn out after a while. A winding in the oven fan has the same possible failure mode, but it could take longer to completely fail. I'd try plugging the microwave directly into an extension cord that is plugged into a GFCI. This will confirm if the oven works, or needs to be replaced. Good luck and let us know what you find. Geoff

Don't know of anything to do this job. This said, very few trucks can handle 500lbs of trailer tongue weight + 500lbs motorcycle over the tongue. You might consider a front receiver if you are driving a 3/4 ton or bigger truck and have enough payload after all gear is on board. The EcoHitch Hidden Front Mount Trailer Hitch Receiver - sold at ETrailer has a 1000lbs vertical load on Ford super duty trucks. I drive an F250 and carry a lot of gear on the truck plus the 500lbs of tongue weight, this maxes out my payload. I would need to Jettison 500lbs from the truck's bed to carry 500lbs on a front receiver. If I wanted to carry our normal load on the truck with a trailer in tow and 500lbs on the front receiver, I would need a 1 ton to have enough payload.

I read in one of the other links that you had posted earlier and found that one person at least has had problems with the GFCI breaker in the Xantrex. I’m out on the road right now. When I get back, I will test the microwave with an 20amp extension cord directly from my garage.. At least if that works then most likely the cause is the breaker in the Xantrex and I can replace the switch. I agree with you. It’s weird passing through the 120v through the Xantrex. I guess with the Xantrex passing though 120v at least you wouldn’t have the inverter running 120 at the same time you were hooked up to short power. if the Xantrex would fail, does that mean that the 120v pass-through would also fail?

So your GFCI breaker on the Xantrex is protecting shore power also in any 120VAC circuit wired through the inverter. It runs your microwave which runs on lower wattage, likely rated at 1100W and using closer to 900W. Why can’t a 2KW Xantrex inverter produce or even allow pass through shore power to the rated 2KW? It would be nice to know how many amps the oven was pulling after 5 minutes, but I’m pretty sure it was nowhere near 2KW. If you can somehow reconfigure it to produce spec, or replace the inverter with a more capable unit, or rewire the oven to be used on shore power only. I replaced mine since we require to run our oven and our A/C unplugged.

Has olliver ever added a platform to the hitch side that can support a 500lb motorcycle?

Depending on your perspective, you will not escape the heat in the driftless area right now. This past week i went into the Superior National Forest in northern MN to " escape the heat" in southern Wisconsin. I only escaped the heat there for 48 hours and then the heat moved in and it was almost as hot there as in southern wisconsin. I own property in the driftless area and have only seen a couple of days in july where i would oliver camp there. If you want to give it a shot i would recommend an electric site at Wyalusing or Perrot or Interstate State Park. All are gorgeous and most have showers/flush bathrooms. But this time of year you are going to want the option to run your ac and generator use is not allowed in the state parks. Good luck!

Did this get resolved? On my last trip my ac disappeared from the cp plus panel for a couple of days and then eventually reappeared with no apparent action on my part. I am suspecting I have a flaky RJ45 coupler somewhere? Inverter was on both times and i was in some desparate heat and humidity where i had to run off battery power for an hour or so. Fortunately the remote controlled the aventa just fine. Running the aventa off battery power at the beginning of the trip is not a real winner. @jd1923 has me thinking about the Furrion Chill.

Straight-forward test! We travel with this 30 ft 12 AWG extension cord. With our batteries, I can even plug in a friend who isn’t off-grid capable! 🤣 https://a.co/d/01Nv8L4h

Ok, so those settings may have been incorrect, but that's not causing a breaker trip. There's still something else going on. Can you run a heavy extension cord (12 gauge) from an outlet in your garage directly to the plug/cord on your microwave? (Don't use a cheap cord, it could melt.) If the microwave works that way, there's a problem in your trailer, either a wiring fault or a bad breaker in the Xantrex. If the microwave trips your garage breaker, there's a problem with the microwave and it should be replaced.

I moved the Oli out of the RV port and next to the house. Used a non-GFCI breaker in the garage that only feeds the air compressor. I ran the test again. This time I went about 5min 30 seconds when the power went off. I check the non-GFCI in the Garage and it did NOT trip, I checked the built in GFCI breaker in the Xantrex and it did trip. Still took about 5 minutes to be able reset the GFCI. Every time I press the button in it would click and pop the button back out. The EMS still reading 12A. I check the Xantrex setup, the LBCO was 10.5, and LBCO Shutdown delay timer.was 300. I missed these values when updated from AGM to (2) Epoch 300AH batteries (totaling 600AH). I used the custom [USE] setting for the Epoch and set Absorption and Float to Epoch specs. So I will need to update the LBCO and LBCO shutdown delay to suggested setting. (LBCO 12.0 or 12.1, then delay of 10.