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Taylor, I'll go out and look at mine... In the meantime the real expert here, he who turned his water pump 3-way switches into 4-ways to add another switch for the outdoor shower is our friend Geoff! Maybe @Snackchaser is online?!

jd, good tip. I think I have the parts to make a jumper cable

You're welcome, @taylor.coyote. Everybody should have 1-2 of these in the Oliver toolbox. Once in a Class C, I could not get it to go into Drive from Park after starting the engine! I soon realized the brake light switch was not working. I made this jumper wire then to bypass the switch. It kept me until the next day, when I replaced the brake light switch in the Napa parking lot in Cortez Colorado! 😎

The hc1 is adorable, and great if you don't care about a kitchen or bath. A cute retro 13' hard sided tent.

dj- I'm an electrical zero, a couple of questions: when jumping wires, the toggle at the pantry has two wires and the toggle at door has 3 wires. easy to jump the two wires at the pantry. how to you deal with jumping the three wire toggle? is the center a ground? do you unplug the two outer wires and jump them ignoring the center wire? or what?

The toggles have changed. Ours and likely yours do not have the little blue LED lights showing the ON state like the newer ones. I don't know where to buy them but first jump the two wires connecting to the switch and see if that powers the lights, to be sure the switch is bad. If it turns out the switch is good, look at the connections to the courtesy lights in the streetside basement.

My interior courtesy lights will not turn on. All other lights operate. Have check the contacts on both toggle switches. I'm assuming one of the toggle switches has gone bad. Can anyone tell me where to purchase replacemnt toggles switches? I have hull #124 / 2016 production if the toggles have changed on newer production.

Thanks I’ll check that too. i appreciate all the great advice.

Thanks for the input that looks like a great deal on the inverter. I purchased 2 of the 30A DC-DC chargers 1 year before the new 50 amps came out.

I see you have a 2024 LE1. Which inverter do you have? I see in a xantrex XC2000 manual that there is a in internal fuse that may have blown due to a reverse polarity and there's a led light on the back side of the inverter that comes on if a reverse polarity happens.

The deadbolt is standard equipment from the manufacturer.

Thanks. I have lights and jacks work after replacing those fuses, but inverter is powerless and won’t reset. I will hook up shore power later to see what works. And I have AGM batteries. Voltage is 99% on the Victron meter

This looks like the same Lippert lock I have where somebody added a residential deadbolt for extra security.

Depending on the wiring of your Oliver (there are many variants), shore power may not connect with a blown inverter or blown main 300A fuse. But given the main fuse blew your inverter is likely OK. You can try to connect to shore power, but without replacing the 300A fuse to reconnect your batteries, it likely will not work anyway and either way you would NOT have lighting or 12VDC accessories. You need to disconnect your batteries anyway after this accident. Test voltage on each one separately. Given they are LiFePO4 batteries, if they read much less than 10V they are in trouble but perhaps can be revived. Slow charge each one separately. Some of the small chargers, like this one have repair functions that pulse a small charge on and off to help. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226/ Let us know of your progress and there are many of us who can help.

@2008RN Check this out if you want to stop worrying about the Xantrex GFCI!

Hello experts. i mistakenly connected my battery in reverse polarity when reconnecting in the dark garage its stored in. i replaced the fuses in the panel that were blown, but the inverter doesn’t work and i think I need to replace the 300 A DC fuse. Is it safe to connect to and use shore power until i get things checked out?

This is the exact model # I installed 2 years ago paying $997 and I wouldn't travel another day without one! https://invertersrus.com/product/used-victron-multiplus-ii-12v-3000va-120v-only/ They are company inspected and may have warranty from the build date. It might be time to replace your Xantrex with the better model. I've had mine push 3600W without cutting out (turned the Dometic P2 on while not knowing the HWH was on electric)! We've read a lot of stories of Xantrex not producing the rated power. The Multiplus II also has the unique PowerAssist feature, to assist in running A/C on 15A shore power connections or small generators. I used it last summer when at an ancient campground we could not trust the 15A connection. I set input to the charger at 12A (with the phone app) to be safe running the Penguin A/C half on shore power and half on battery. It was the only way to safely leave our dog in the trailer for the afternoon. After the sun set, we turned off the A/C and recharged the batteries overnight. Too bad they're presently out of stock of Orion 50A DC-DC chargers (maybe worth a call). But WOW, it might be time to get your MP2 today! 😎

Hello experts. i mistakenly connected my battery in reverse polarity when reconnecting in the dark garage its stored in. i replaced the fuses in the panel that were blown, but the inverter doesn’t work and i think I need to replace the 300 A DC fuse. Is it safe to connect to and use shore power until i get things checked out?

I believe the 4WC door was about the same thickness as the Ollie door. Different companies, different approaches, but it is possible.

I would go the other direction, first or second strike, if I had to pay for parts and shipping (or not). And yes, there are much better door locks, in RVs that come with thicker doors. Gray would be cool, but the lock cost me $50 and I'd hate to spend 2-3x total cost just to make it gray. I'll remove the ugly door bumper and latch holder this week (unnecessary with Lippert friction hinges) and remove the RVIA and Oliver stickers before our next ceramic coating maintenance. She will keep looking better! No powder-coating service up here, and with a forecasted high of 116F in The Valley today, our next planned trip down the mountain is in October! 🤣

Would love indoor storage but only if it could be on our property. Not happening for reasons or cost and building codes! I'm not a cover guy, too much hassle and cover inside a building, really? Any dust will blow right off next time out or with a good rainfall! But to each their own... With our Oliver outdoors, the rooftop solar will return the batteries to full charge when not in use. When it's this hot, high 90s this week, we run the Chill Cube A/C 24x7 so I'll change the inverter setting to recharge once a week. Hull #113 has not been "in storage" the 3 years we've had her. Put a cover on the TV two summers ago, to keep the sun off, and the pack rats read it as an open invitation. I caught it just in time but could have lost the entire truck interior vs. just some HVAC vacuum lines and part of the dash cover. I'm never using a car cover again. I'll take a little sun fade over this and rub marks from wind. We had a Class-C before where the pack rats one winter built a nest in the intake trough of the Ford V-10. Chewed all the Bilstein shock boots too! So grateful they're too big to get into any of the small openings bottom of the Oliver. I'm looking at ours now and do so everyday! I'm always doing something. This week she's in the driveway behind the TV since we just got back home. Working on replacing the outdoor shower assembly and will add a drip edge on the streetside of the roof (and rear) to match the one on the curbside (we get drip marks everywhere else but soon will not! 😎 First pic is a rare cloudy day early June on our 3-year anniversary! Then after a light snow last winter. If she was back there today, the whole yard is foot high green grass form monsoon rains and not a drop inside the Oliver! She's had all the elements and always comes out just fine. All pics taken from a living room window. I did a bit of weed-whacking yesterday and more today!

I like looking at mine!

Our Oliver had the RVLock installed when we purchased it (used). In the 24 or so months we've owned it, I've had to call RVLock three time with issues. First time was when the lock just stopped working. Not too big a deal since we could still lock/unlock the door with the key. They sent replacement parts and I installed. Second time was after we closed the camper door and the key lock (not deadbolt) locked us out of the camper. Of course the keys were inside the camper. Luckily we were at the storage yard where we keep the camper so we just drove home to get the spare set. Inconvenient but not catastrophic. RVLock sent a replacement paddle with lock that I have yet to install. Third time was after the lockout above. I ordered a spare set of two keys with the replacement paddle and RVLock only sent one key. Called them and they sent out another set of two keys at no charge. Now have three spares and never leave the camper without a set in my pocket. Since we are not the original purchasers of the lock, we've had to pay for the replacement parts and shipping. I've thought the costs were very reasonable and RVLock customer service has been very helpful and easy to work with. I'm not sure I would replace a manual door lock with the RVLock but it's installed so we'll use it until/unless it becomes too much trouble. I would prefer the locks like were on our Four Wheel Camper. It had a standard RV style paddle lock and a home style deadbolt. Much more robust than the RV style locks. @jd1923 Have you considered having your white powder coated door lock re-powder coated in gray? You'd have to disassemble it for powder coating but it would be gray.

I’d like to put an exclamation point on this thread by letting you all know that RVLock sent me out a whole new unit at no cost - keyed the same as our old lock - so we have 4 keys now - and with two new fobs. (Kind of ironic because aside from testing - we’ve never used a key or fob for our RVLock!) I’ve certainly had WORSE customer service out of things I’ve paid a lot more for than my RVLock. All things considered - I’d say the RVLock is about on par with the rest of the accessories on the Oliver. Pretty much every one of them has had a problem that required I fix, replace, or buy extra parts to make or keep something working.

There’s a saying among pilots who fly retractable gear aircraft “there are those who have landed gear-up, and those who will.” I’m glad you have had good luck with none of your stuff growing legs, but if you poke that bear enough - you will -eventually- get bit. I’m generally a pretty trusting guy. Relying on the goodness of my fellow campers to respect my property. That said, I was born and raised in Chicago - where leaving a door unlocked or anything tempting in plain sight is an outright invitation to theft. I’ve had a car broken into to steal what -looked like- a laptop bag. It was nothing but some work papers and political flyers. (Hah! Joke’s on you!) But - replacing that window cost me $60 and a lost day. When I moved to rural NE Texas - I never locked my car or my cabin door. Then again - my front door was a quarter mile from the road and folks in Texas have guns believe in the three S’s (shoot, shovel, shuttup) - even so - I had neighbors who lost some ATV’s and expensive mowers. Sure, your Walmart beach chair or grungy looking Igloo cooler are almost certainly safe left unattended at your camp site for hours or even days. Nobody wants stuff like that. But if you leave an E-Bike unattended - you’ve just invited a less-than-hi est person to help themselves. I don’t think I’ve seen a Honda generator that DIDN’T have a chain or cable on it. Folks DO pass through your campground who won’t share your midwestern upbringing and associated respect for your property. Especially places with easy road access and no security Leave something tempting enough out where an opportunist can see it and have little concern of being caught - and it WILL grow legs. I watched people cruising slowly through campgrounds and marinas with pickup trucks with assorted bikes and the like piled in back. If they see you watching them - they clear out fast. If you’re not watching them - who knows. I don’t tempt fate these days. Even if I’m in a relatively secure place, if my basement door is too close to the campground loop - I lock the door. I wonder what the actual “freeloader” statistic is for public campgrounds. Sure, if you show up between 10 and 4 on a weekend, you’ll likely find an employee. (Maybe not) But on a Wednesday after 6pm? It’s all on the honor system. I see campers in older or run-down units show up at a campground late - after the employees have left. They set up - and they’re gone at first light. Did they leave the required fee in the honor box? I don’t know - but certainly - no employee ever saw them.